Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: X30XE on 13 March 2017, 22:28:09
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In the age of smart phones and tablets that you don't eat these things should be illegal. >:(
Anybody have any suggestions on how to remove 27mm Land Rover size ones without spending a fortune?
The Irwin bolt extractors don't go up to that size it seems and I'm not paying £100 plus for the kit the RAC/AA use.
Note : No access to welding equipment
*P.S - on principal I'm not paying LR a penny for the genuine key.
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ATS removed mine after Kwikfit fitter sheared pins from the original 3 pin style locking wheel nut key
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If you don't have the necessary kit to remove them, drive the car to your favourite mechanic(a technician won't put down his espressmochachinolatte(with extra pink sprinkles and his name caligraphied onto the artisinal paper-mache thermo container in Essex virgin's blood) and pay him to undo the sodding things. Replace them with ordinary nuts/bolts and forget about them forever.
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Whilst I don't know what your beef is with Land Rover, are you not 'cutting your nose to spite your face' so to speak?
Is the risk of damaging your alloys, skinned knuckles and blood sweat and probably tears, worth the cost of a replacement locking wheel nut key?
I'd swallow my pride, and get a key from LR, or at least try a LR specialist - THEN bin them.
At least you would also get a set of original wheel nuts to replace the locking wheel nuts out of it.
And it's likely to be a cheaper alternative too.
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ATS removed mine after Kwikfit fitter sheared pins from the original 3 pin style locking wheel nut key
Any ideas what they used?
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Whilst I don't know what your beef is with Land Rover, are you not 'cutting your nose to spite your face' so to speak?
Is the risk of damaging your alloys, skinned knuckles and blood sweat and probably tears, worth the cost of a replacement locking wheel nut key?
I'd swallow my pride, and get a key from LR, or at least try a LR specialist - THEN bin them.
At least you would also get a set of original wheel nuts to replace the locking wheel nuts out of it.
And it's likely to be a cheaper alternative too.
I have no intention of risking damaging my 17 yr old alloys. Equally I have no intention of paying retail price at LR to get a key I shouldn't need to remove 5 wheel bolts to throw them and the key in the bin. I'd rather spend my money on an appropriately sized set of bolt extractors that would be useful the next time some chump loses the key.
Replacement standard wheelbolts already ordered yesterday btw. Obviously last resort is give in and take it to my local garage, but that's defeatest. :P
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ATS removed mine after Kwikfit fitter sheared pins from the original 3 pin style locking wheel nut key
Any ideas what they used?
Big socket and an even bigger hammer?
Welded a larger nut onto the damaged fastener?
Left handed threaded socket(although I've not seen one that big)?
Various drills and advanced Anglo-Saxon?
The combination of brute force and ignorance that is in plentiful supply at fast-fit tyre operations(and that's just the 'manager' who got the job because he's slightly less likely to beak customer's cars)?
As for the 'bolt extractors' being useful just once, let alone repeatedly, you're living in a fantasy world. PM me your address and I'll send you some to prove that
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When kwik fit sheared my three pins on the omega, i drove car straight to Vx dealer and said please sort it. To their credit they did without damaging the rim. No charge as i said they arent fit for purpose and they were the last people to fit them.
Do people ( in the real world) actually ever have their wheels nicked anymore?
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When I needed one removing from a car I was buying (vendor lost the adapter so they were paying) a fast fit tyre place used a cold chisel to break part of the stud (to make an irregular shape) and then hammered a socket on to it.
I doubt any solution is going to be technical or subtle. Think brutal but effective :y
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When kwik fit sheared my three pins on the omega, i drove car straight to Vx dealer and said please sort it. To their credit they did without damaging the rim. No charge as i said they arent fit for purpose and they were the last people to fit them.
Do people ( in the real world) actually ever have their wheels nicked anymore?
Simply put... No. Not since 1998.
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Photos of the locking nut??
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Top bodge.
If wheel nut is 27mm, go and buy a 26mm impact socket, get very short extension, hammer socket onto nut remove, knackerd extension, replace with good extension, undo with bar.
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ATS removed mine after Kwikfit fitter sheared pins from the original 3 pin style locking wheel nut key
Any ideas what they used?
he had a set of various sizes of something like these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Emergency-Locking-Wheel-Nut-Remover-Removal-Tool-19-26mm-/160650974451?hash=item25678b54f3:m:mUcQ3tkVT25_DD7lv5I8hSg
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When kwik fit sheared my three pins on the omega, i drove car straight to Vx dealer and said please sort it. To their credit they did without damaging the rim. No charge as i said they arent fit for purpose and they were the last people to fit them.
Do people ( in the real world) actually ever have their wheels nicked anymore?
Simply put... No. Not since 1998.
In the 13 years I worked recovery, we had one job for stolen wheels. The car was an old Skoda Fabia!
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Pop to local LR dealer or specialist. Ask technician nicely if he has the right key you can borrow for ten minutes. Reward with fourpack of beer.
Worked for me a few years back. .. :y
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Photos of the locking nut??
Having just been out to take photos it occurs that I might be able to get a small stilson onto them as they're not exactly recessed into the alloy.
(http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt133/011011011/20170314_151445_zpsmsfpu1oz.jpg)
(http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt133/011011011/20170314_151455_zpspapmetv7.jpg)
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Pop to local LR dealer or specialist. Ask technician nicely if he has the right key you can borrow for ten minutes. Reward with fourpack of beer.
Worked for me a few years back. .. :y
Unfortunately not currently taxed, not MOT'd and not insured. And nearest LR dealer is miles away. :(
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ATS removed mine after Kwikfit fitter sheared pins from the original 3 pin style locking wheel nut key
Any ideas what they used?
he had a set of various sizes of something like these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Emergency-Locking-Wheel-Nut-Remover-Removal-Tool-19-26mm-/160650974451?hash=item25678b54f3:m:mUcQ3tkVT25_DD7lv5I8hSg
Ta. That might *just* fit.
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For reference, I found those to be bog all use, but its probably because I don't have an impact driver.
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The locking nuts on my Vauxhall were made of warm chocolate.
They are now history. :y
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That's sticking out enough to get a hefty pair of mole grips on it. Get some penetrating oil on it and give your balls a workout.
Don't forget to whack it first.
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For reference, I found those to be bog all use, but its probably because I don't have an impact driver.
I have a full set of them, and don't find them any better with an impact driver. And they're of no use whatsoever on locking nuts with a rotating collar.
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That's sticking out enough to get a hefty pair of mole grips on it. Get some penetrating oil on it and give your balls a workout.
Don't forget to whack it first.
Or, there seems to be several threads clear in the nut. So, you could screw a bolt as far into it as you can without touching the stud, lock another nut in place and try to undo all three hopefully locked together nuts and bolt.
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That's sticking out enough to get a hefty pair of mole grips on it. Get some penetrating oil on it and give your balls a workout.
Don't forget to whack it first.
140nm plus rust... not a cat in hells chance. I don't own any chewer grips anyway. :(
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That's sticking out enough to get a hefty pair of mole grips on it. Get some penetrating oil on it and give your balls a workout.
Don't forget to whack it first.
140nm plus rust... not a cat in hells chance. I don't own any chewer grips anyway. :(
Have you seen how big BIG mole grips are? And if you force them closed until veins start sticking out of the side of your head, they ain't letting go.
They might jump off the end and make you graze your whatever and cry for your mum, but not if they're on far enough.
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Stilsons are a bit weighty, I think. But give it a go. The way I look at it is: It's got to come off, so it's fickin coming off.
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If none of the above work try a lump hammer and a chisel. I had similar with an Omega locking nut last year(much more recessed) and tried everything. In the end a hammer & chisel got it turning.
Also may be worth drilling through the centre first to weaken its grip.
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I don't suppose heat would work, being so close to alloy?
Ron.
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I don't suppose heat would work, being so close to alloy?
You still have to grip the nut to turn it.
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Yep, I quite agree, but if the eust has loosened its grip after heating, you won't need to bust your boiler with mole grips or whatever?
Ron.
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Dropped into Helfrauds on my way past. As suspected the Laser spiral ones are a smidgeon too small.
Got the spare wheel nut off with the 10" stilsons but of course that one wasn't really tight anyway.
LH threaded spiral bolt with a shoulder/nut on it would be the best means of getting these particular bstards out me thinks. Good excuse to buy a lathe :D no no behave ;D
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Depending on how far out it is protruding you could try carefully make it hex shape with a small hand grinder. Very carefully ! You dont want to mark the wheel. Then hammer a tight surface drive socket onto it. Another way would be to drill it out but you would need good drills and only drill as far as you need to. Another way would be to find a large nut that nearly fits around it and weld it on from the centre. This would require a sheid making to protect wheel and brakes etc from any weld spatter and keep stopping and cooling with water. Either way as mr stemo says give it some realy hard hammer blows before anything to shock unload the threads slightly.
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Dropped into Helfrauds on my way past. As suspected the Laser spiral ones are a smidgeon too small.
Got the spare wheel nut off with the 10" stilsons but of course that one wasn't really tight anyway.
LH threaded spiral bolt with a shoulder/nut on it would be the best means of getting these particular bstards out me thinks. Good excuse to buy a lathe :D no no behave ;D
As it's on a Land Rover, have you considered drilling slightly larger than the stud diameter past the depth of the nut? Then a couple of whacks from a decent chisel should remove the nut if it doesn't just fall off. A new LR stud is likely to be considerably cheaper than any of the specialist removal tools that require a large application of luck for success.
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Dropped into Helfrauds on my way past. As suspected the Laser spiral ones are a smidgeon too small.
Got the spare wheel nut off with the 10" stilsons but of course that one wasn't really tight anyway.
LH threaded spiral bolt with a shoulder/nut on it would be the best means of getting these particular bstards out me thinks. Good excuse to buy a lathe :D no no behave ;D
As it's on a Land Rover, have you considered drilling slightly larger than the stud diameter past the depth of the nut? Then a couple of whacks from a decent chisel should remove the nut if it doesn't just fall off. A new LR stud is likely to be considerably cheaper than any of the specialist removal tools that require a large application of luck for success.
It's a five stud wheel. Four will do if you can only get the head off. ;D
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Just tell him how you used to do it in 10 seconds flat, in Liverpool. ;D
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Just tell him how you used to do it in 10 seconds flat, in Liverpool. ;D
If it wouldn't come off, we'd have just set fire to it for spite. :)
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Doesn't surprise me. ;D
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What about one of these?
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/laser-survivor-socket?cm_mmc=Google+PLA-_-Tools-_-Hand+Tools-_-221967&_$ja=tsid:60494%7Ccgn:GoogleShopping%7Ckw:221967&istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istItemId=amirrwiqr&istBid=tzxp&_$ja=tsid:35522|cid:344535484|agid:25437357364|tid:pla-236921564164|crid:89797547524|nw:g|rnd:6319434387719059235|dvc:t|adp:1o1&gclid=CjwKEAjwqZ7GBRC1srKSv9TV_iwSJADKTjaDfU9Io5KB61h5bZ8Ebvm-tV-KI9sza2wIOiDTCJUXbxoCEWHw_wcB
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I love an optimist!
I'm particularly partial to the pathetic whimpering they make when their pretty dreams are shredded by an uncaring universe. It refreshes my soul
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What about one of these?
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/laser-survivor-socket?cm_mmc=Google+PLA-_-Tools-_-Hand+Tools-_-221967&_$ja=tsid:60494%7Ccgn:GoogleShopping%7Ckw:221967&istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istItemId=amirrwiqr&istBid=tzxp&_$ja=tsid:35522|cid:344535484|agid:25437357364|tid:pla-236921564164|crid:89797547524|nw:g|rnd:6319434387719059235|dvc:t|adp:1o1&gclid=CjwKEAjwqZ7GBRC1srKSv9TV_iwSJADKTjaDfU9Io5KB61h5bZ8Ebvm-tV-KI9sza2wIOiDTCJUXbxoCEWHw_wcB
That might work better if the removable bits were just spring loaded instead.
But I doubt it. ;D
On the same principle, just take a huge socket, fill it with liquid metal (chemical, not literal), plonk it over the nut and wait for it to go off. Abracadabra.
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What about one of these?
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/laser-survivor-socket?cm_mmc=Google+PLA-_-Tools-_-Hand+Tools-_-221967&_$ja=tsid:60494%7Ccgn:GoogleShopping%7Ckw:221967&istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istItemId=amirrwiqr&istBid=tzxp&_$ja=tsid:35522|cid:344535484|agid:25437357364|tid:pla-236921564164|crid:89797547524|nw:g|rnd:6319434387719059235|dvc:t|adp:1o1&gclid=CjwKEAjwqZ7GBRC1srKSv9TV_iwSJADKTjaDfU9Io5KB61h5bZ8Ebvm-tV-KI9sza2wIOiDTCJUXbxoCEWHw_wcB
That might work better if the removable bits were just spring loaded instead.
But I doubt it. ;D
On the same principle, just take a huge socket, fill it with liquid metal (chemical, not literal), plonk it over the nut and wait for it to go off. Abracadabra.
I was going to suggest using an air chisel, but having used "quick steel" on a side board hinge repair.
The above suggestions well worth a try.
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What about one of these?
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/laser-survivor-socket?cm_mmc=Google+PLA-_-Tools-_-Hand+Tools-_-221967&_$ja=tsid:60494%7Ccgn:GoogleShopping%7Ckw:221967&istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istItemId=amirrwiqr&istBid=tzxp&_$ja=tsid:35522|cid:344535484|agid:25437357364|tid:pla-236921564164|crid:89797547524|nw:g|rnd:6319434387719059235|dvc:t|adp:1o1&gclid=CjwKEAjwqZ7GBRC1srKSv9TV_iwSJADKTjaDfU9Io5KB61h5bZ8Ebvm-tV-KI9sza2wIOiDTCJUXbxoCEWHw_wcB
Tried that for size while i was in there. Close but no cigar.
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What about one of these?
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/laser-survivor-socket?cm_mmc=Google+PLA-_-Tools-_-Hand+Tools-_-221967&_$ja=tsid:60494%7Ccgn:GoogleShopping%7Ckw:221967&istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istItemId=amirrwiqr&istBid=tzxp&_$ja=tsid:35522|cid:344535484|agid:25437357364|tid:pla-236921564164|crid:89797547524|nw:g|rnd:6319434387719059235|dvc:t|adp:1o1&gclid=CjwKEAjwqZ7GBRC1srKSv9TV_iwSJADKTjaDfU9Io5KB61h5bZ8Ebvm-tV-KI9sza2wIOiDTCJUXbxoCEWHw_wcB
That might work better if the removable bits were just spring loaded instead.
But I doubt it. ;D
On the same principle, just take a huge socket, fill it with liquid metal (chemical, not literal), plonk it over the nut and wait for it to go off. Abracadabra.
Already thought of that but i don't have 4 sockets to spare... Wonder if wd40 works as mould release for chem metal :P
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Have you found out yet?
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Might get time to attack it later hopefully.
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Vaseline the nut lightly :o ;D so it acts like a release agent, Cling film over the nut, big socket full of chemical metal pushed onto nut, let it set overnight, remove nut, remove nut from socket and you should basically have a new locking socket that'll fit the other wheels.
Sounds like it would work...whether it will is another matter though
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Vaseline the nut lightly :o ;D so it acts like a release agent, Cling film over the nut, big socket full of chemical metal pushed onto nut, let it set overnight, remove nut, remove nut from socket and you should basically have a new locking socket that'll fit the other wheels.
Sounds like it would work...whether it will is another matter though
If you do this, use a good brand of epoxy, follow the instructions to the letter, and don't use a quick setting one(they trade strength for speed)
Personally I think adding extra material drastically reduces your options if it doesn't work, so isn't an option I would choose. But then I do have the tools for processes that are more likely to work. Guaranteed to work if you're prepared to risk wheel damage by grinding the nut and stud away.
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Gone too far with attacking one already for a mold to work anyway. They are on tight that's for sure.
Would help if I didn't live in a community where c**ting the living shit out of something metal at gone 5pm is frowned upon ::)
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this is one job for whatever reason I've never had to do. I saw my old boss do it a few times though...... weld a big blob on to it and then get the Irwin stud extractors on it. Worked beautifully :)
In your case as you mention welding ain't an option then I reckon (based purely on your photo) get a small set of stilsons to grip on there with a big f..k off pipe over the end for leverage. Similar to what stemo says :y
On an aside I had the owner of Scott's Tyres in Northampton (hopefully folk I my area will know that place) take my omega keys off. I swear he had them ALL removed in 5 minutes flat with just a hammer and chisel with no marks on the alloys. Art shows itself in many different forms!!!!
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this is one job for whatever reason I've never had to do. I saw my old boss do it a few times though...... weld a big blob on to it and then get the Irwin stud extractors on it. Worked beautifully :)
In your case as you mention welding ain't an option then I reckon (based purely on your photo) get a small set of stilsons to grip on there with a big f..k off pipe over the end for leverage. Similar to what stemo says :y
On an aside I had the owner of Scott's Tyres in Northampton (hopefully folk I my area will know that place) take my omega keys off. I swear he had them ALL removed in 5 minutes flat with just a hammer and chisel with no marks on the alloys. Art shows itself in many different forms!!!!
Already thought of that me'sen and tried it. The issue here is scale. Most locking wheel nuts are 15-17mm. These are 26mm round at the front and the friction area is nearer 40mm hence even with the genuine key you're onto a losing battle, especially given they're made of cheese. And they're half as tight again as a regular car bolt/nut.
Will be going down a more destructive route in daylight hours.
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You anywhere near Northampton? My welder is going in my boot at the weekend. Could swing by if you're close :-\
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You anywhere near Northampton? My welder is going in my boot at the weekend. Could swing by if you're close :-\
I'm not. But thanks anyway. :)
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You anywhere near Northampton? My welder is going in my boot at the weekend. Could swing by if you're close :-\
I'm not. But thanks anyway. :)
You're just scared in case I'm a stemo-type character. I fully understand ;D
:y
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If none of the above work try a lump hammer and a chisel. I had similar with an Omega locking nut last year(much more recessed) and tried everything. In the end a hammer & chisel got it turning.
Also may be worth drilling through the centre first to weaken its grip.
This worked a treat. 30 - 45 seconds on each one saw it loose. Thanks for all the suggestions. So much more rewarding to solve a problem for free rather than paying the inventor of the problem more money! :y
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Nice work mate :y
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If none of the above work try a lump hammer and a chisel. I had similar with an Omega locking nut last year(much more recessed) and tried everything. In the end a hammer & chisel got it turning.
Also may be worth drilling through the centre first to weaken its grip.
This worked a treat. 30 - 45 seconds on each one saw it loose. Thanks for all the suggestions. So much more rewarding to solve a problem for free rather than paying the inventor of the problem more money! :y
I will PM you my address so you can send the cigar. A nice big Cuban one will do nicely. :y ;D
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Round here you still need locking nuts/bolts after all it was only last year that someone nicked two of the centre caps off the wheels of my Omega >:(
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If none of the above work try a lump hammer and a chisel. I had similar with an Omega locking nut last year(much more recessed) and tried everything. In the end a hammer & chisel got it turning.
Also may be worth drilling through the centre first to weaken its grip.
This worked a treat. 30 - 45 seconds on each one saw it loose. Thanks for all the suggestions. So much more rewarding to solve a problem for free rather than paying the inventor of the problem more money! :y
I will PM you my address so you can send the cigar. A nice big Cuban one will do nicely. :y ;D
I hope that's not a euphemism squire :o :)
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Round here you still need locking nuts/bolts after all it was only last year that someone nicked two of the centre caps off the wheels of my Omega >:(
Yeah cos making off with 4 alloys, a trolley jack and a wheel brace is just as easy as making off with a screwdriver and two plastic caps. :P