Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: terry paget on 15 April 2017, 07:13:18
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2.2 petrol manual saloon
There is a warning light on in this car, picture of a disc with pads around it and ABS in the middle. Is this a general brake fault symbol, or does it mean a fault specifically in the ABS system? Brakes appear to work normally, not low fluid.
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Its a fault with the system, when you first start the car and drive a few metres you should hear a springing buzz, thats the abs doing a self test, if it cant cant complete it the lights will pop back on.
You will probably find its one of the wheel sensors that has an open circuit or due to a reluctor ring thas damaged or has too much build up of iron filings on the sensor
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Another reason for a real Tech2 Mr P, as an OBDII wouldn't be able to read that ;)
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Sudden thought - the speedometer is still working normally. On every previous ABS ECU failure I have suffered, the speedometer has failed as the ABS light came on - some were intermittent, but they always came on together. Is this a vital clue? If so, what does it tell me?
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It suggests that it isn't the ECU. But it could still be the valve block, which was the problem with mine. A suitable code reader is NECESSARY to diagnose the fault before you go any further: hoping that it's a sensor(and there are four) is a waste of time.
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I have experienced sensor failure before, and also sensor cable failure, on a front sensor that does lots of flexing with steering and suspension movement. I checked the front sensors for continuity; n/s is continuous, about 1.6K ohms; o/s is open circuit. I guess I have found the fault. I have found in the past that Omega front sensors stick permanently in the hubs, and nothing will shift them. Is this members' experience?
On a Citroen CX 25 turbo 2, with an intermittent fault, I managed to slice open the sensor cable, find the break, and repair it. Worth a try. On my Omega 3.2 I destroyed the sensor trying to remove it, so replaced hub and bearing assembly, complete with ABS sensor, with used item from Steve Brown; means resetting the camber.
Comments invited.
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Pop the hub off... Caliper, disc and hub nut... Bash the sensor out, fit new and reassemble. If you can do it without removing hub then happy days ;)
Removing the knuckle is insane.
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Pop the hub off... Caliper, disc and hub nut... Bash the sensor out, fit new and reassemble. If you can do it without removing hub then happy days ;)
Removing the knuckle is insane.
This.
And that's without considering the low cost of a new sensor :o
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Fault was the sensor, not the cable. I found a spare knuckle assembly in my spares heap,with ABS sensor, so popped it on. Fault cured.
I did not know one could easily remove the hub, bother. I imagined it was difficult.
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I did say as much at the time ::)
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I did say as much at the time ::)
Indeed you did, thanks, but by 17.04 I had the knuckle off and was preparing to fit the spare
. I imagined removing the front hub bearing was on a par with the rear wheel bearing. Having read Entwood's guide, I reckon my method did not take much longer than his, especially if I have to have the hub nut torqued up elsewhere.
Pleased to learn that ABS sensors are now cheap, Nick. Like HBVs, they must hve come down a lot.
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Hub nut will need torqueing up to 325nm, if my memory serves. And camber will need resetting.
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Hub nut will need torqueing up to 325nm, if my memory serves. And camber will need resetting.
Camber only needs resetting if the knuckle/strut bolts are disturbed. Hub removal doesn't require these bolts to be touched... ;)
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Yes, I must reset the camber when I can get he car back. This car is son Ben's car, and contains an extraordinary child seat mounted on the n/s rear seat, and rearward facing, seat conveys my grandson Tom everywhere. It took Ben so long to fit the thing that he is loathe to move it to a different car. He cheerfully drove it around for days with the ABS light on though.
I shall set camber to minus 1.5 degrees, is that right? That means front wheels leaning top inwards, to wear out the tyres on the inner edge as all Omegas do.
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Hub nut will need torqueing up to 325nm, if my memory serves. And camber will need resetting.
Camber only needs resetting if the knuckle/strut bolts are disturbed. Hub removal doesn't require these bolts to be touched... ;)
Knuckle complete with hub was changed. :y
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Yes, I must reset the camber when I can get he car back. This car is son Ben's car, and contains an extraordinary child seat mounted on the n/s rear seat, and rearward facing, seat conveys my grandson Tom everywhere. It took Ben so long to fit the thing that he is loathe to move it to a different car. He cheerfully drove it around for days with the ABS light on though.
I shall set camber to minus 1.5 degrees, is that right? That means front wheels leaning top inwards, to wear out the tyres on the inner edge as all Omegas do.
Don't forget to check to toe as well, as that will be affected too. :y
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Yes, I must reset the camber when I can get he car back. This car is son Ben's car, and contains an extraordinary child seat mounted on the n/s rear seat, and rearward facing, seat conveys my grandson Tom everywhere. It took Ben so long to fit the thing that he is loathe to move it to a different car. He cheerfully drove it around for days with the ABS light on though.
I shall set camber to minus 1.5 degrees, is that right? That means front wheels leaning top inwards, to wear out the tyres on the inner edge as all Omegas do.
Don't forget to check to toe as well, as that will be affected too. :y
Thanks, will do. Another reason to remove the hub next time.
I see 3/4" high value torque wrenches cost £100 plus, but I can buy a torque wrench multiplier kit for £40. That sounds attractive. I presume it works in both directions, and could assist me in undoing very tight nuts.
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Camber should be one degree and ten minutes, NOT one degree thirty minutes as you alluded to ;)
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Camber should be one degree and ten minutes, NOT one degree thirty minutes as you alluded to ;)
Thanks. I recall earlier Haynes figures were rhought to be too vague
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Yes, I must reset the camber when I can get he car back. This car is son Ben's car, and contains an extraordinary child seat mounted on the n/s rear seat, and rearward facing, seat conveys my grandson Tom everywhere. It took Ben so long to fit the thing that he is loathe to move it to a different car. He cheerfully drove it around for days with the ABS light on though.
I shall set camber to minus 1.5 degrees, is that right? That means front wheels leaning top inwards, to wear out the tyres on the inner edge as all Omegas do.
1'10 - 1'15 would be more suitable. 1'50 is excessive
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Thanks, will do. Another reason to remove the hub next time.
I see 3/4" high value torque wrenches cost £100 plus, but I can buy a torque wrench multiplier kit for £40. That sounds attractive. I presume it works in both directions, and could assist me in undoing very tight nuts.
You don't need a 3/4" torque wrench for car stuff! Nor do you want to be buying the tools :o . A good 1/2" drive torque wrench will easily cover everything you need.
I wouldn't bother with a torque multiplier either; a 750mm long 1/2" breaker bar for £20 will do everything on an Omega, including the crank bolt which is probably the tightest fastener on the car. If you're feeling flush then buy a long 1/2" drive ratchet as well, which for DIY use is better than a cheap impact gun.
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Halfords long 1/2" torque wrench is just about man enough to tighten an Omega front hub ;)
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Thanks for the advice lads. The biggest Halfords torque wrench I could find is 22" long with max torque 225lbs.ft (300Nm). That means my effort at the handle would have to be 122 lbs, a bit much for me. It costs £80. A torque multiplier at £40 seems more attractive. However, until the need next arises I need make no decision.
The picture on the advert of a man easily undoing a lorry wheel nut is persuasive.
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Thanks for the advice lads. The biggest Halfords torque wrench I could find is 22" long with max torque 225lbs.ft (300Nm). That means my effort at the handle would have to be 122 lbs, a bit much for me. It costs £80. A torque multiplier at £40 seems more attractive. However, until the need next arises I need make no decision.
They're big, clumsy devices. Nor are you going to use one with a torque wrench.
A 3/4" torque wrench is going to be pretty heavy too, so is unlikely to help.
Perhaps you could increase your pie and beer intake? 8)
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Thanks for the advice lads. The biggest Halfords torque wrench I could find is 22" long with max torque 225lbs.ft (300Nm). That means my effort at the handle would have to be 122 lbs, a bit much for me. It costs £80. A torque multiplier at £40 seems more attractive. However, until the need next arises I need make no decision.
They're big, clumsy devices. Nor are you going to use one with a torque wrench.
A 3/4" torque wrench is going to be pretty heavy too, so is unlikely to help.
Perhaps you could increase your pie and beer intake? 8)
Thanks for enlightenment. Nick. I am sure you are right. I only learned of torque miltipliers on the web today. Better idea would be to put a steel pipe on the end of the Halfords torque wrench, and seek aid from my 3 hulking great sons, all of whom drive Omegas I maintain.
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Leave hub nut cover off, remove centre boss from wheel. Tighten hub nut to whatever your torque wrench will go to, fit wheel. Drive to a "proper" garage and for a couple of quid in the charity box/coffee swindle they'll tighten it up correctly for you through the wheel boss without any problem at all. Drive home remove wheel, fit hub nut cover and wheel boss, replace wheel. Job jobbed in 30 minutes for £2.00 :)
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That's exactly what I did recently. My local garage wouldn't even accept a fiver for a pint for doing it for me. :y