Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Dave Ghost on 04 November 2019, 14:08:41
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I was recently at MOT with my car ( passed no advisories ) drove back home no problems. Went to work the next day and the car just cut out. ( No lights came on. ) the cars started up again but only ran for about 20 seconds then just cut out again.
I did the paperclip test and got two codes.
0335 Incorrect rpm signal
0340 Camshaft sensor incorrect signal
I have changed the Cam sensor with an original part from Autovaux. but the car still wont start.
It sometimes sounds like it is firing but does not start.
What is the " Incorrect rpm signal " and how do I sort it.
any help would be greatly appreciated.
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I think I'm right in saying that the 0335 is because the engine isn't running.
Mmm? I don't believe Autovaux don't always send OE parts :-\
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Maybe it should go back to the garage that did the MOT if the car was ok prior to this.
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I was with the car the whole time for MOT They didn't touch the engine. I've always been there with my cars and trust them.
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I think I'm right in saying that the 0335 is because the engine isn't running.
Mmm? I don't believe Autovaux don't always send OE parts :-\
I was also thinking that i would get a code that states the engine is not running but was not sure.
The part was a Siemens part and looks identical to the original from part number and everything.
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0335 is crank sensor
0340 is cam sensor
I *think* the 2.0l can "run" with only one of them working, but might be a bugger to start.
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I think I'm right in saying that the 0335 is because the engine isn't running.
Mmm? I don't believe Autovaux don't always send OE parts :-\
You're thinking of the early V6 ;)
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I think I'm right in saying that the 0335 is because the engine isn't running.
Mmm? I don't believe Autovaux don't always send OE parts :-\
You're thinking of the early V6 ;)
Am I? :-\
I often have no idea what I'm thinking or doing these days ::) ::)
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0335 is crank sensor
0340 is cam sensor
I *think* the 2.0l can "run" with only one of them working, but might be a bugger to start.
according to the fault code list for the 2.0 0335 is incorrect rpm signal. it is however for the 2.2 a crank sensor.
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Fuel? How much in the tank? Does the pump prime when you turn the ignition on?
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Fuel? How much in the tank? Does the pump prime when you turn the ignition on?
Tank is half full. Going to have a look at the pump and relays next. ( when the weather allows me to. )
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0335 is crank sensor
0340 is cam sensor
I *think* the 2.0l can "run" with only one of them working, but might be a bugger to start.
according to the fault code list for the 2.0 0335 is incorrect rpm signal. it is however for the 2.2 a crank sensor.
The RPM is calculated from the signal provided by the crank sensor. So both lists are correct.
P0335 is a standard OBDii code for a problem with the crankshaft speed sensor.
P0340 is a standard OBDii code for a problem with the camshaft speed sensor.
I suspect that the engine needs to crank for more than a pre-defined period, without starting, before the ECU will try to operate with no cam signal. (Or vice-versa on some non V6 engines). Try cranking for at least 10 seconds. If no start then try at least 20 seconds.
It looks like both the crank and cam sensors connect directly to the Simtec ECU. So if your sensors are good then the fault must be in the loom feeding the sensors. Most likely the mating halves of the connectors on the sensors.
I find it hard to believe that both sensors failed at the same time. So I'm also wondering under what circumstances a failed crank sensor could induce a false positive in the cam sensor.
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0335 is crank sensor
0340 is cam sensor
I *think* the 2.0l can "run" with only one of them working, but might be a bugger to start.
according to the fault code list for the 2.0 0335 is incorrect rpm signal. it is however for the 2.2 a crank sensor.
The RPM is calculated from the signal provided by the crank sensor. So both lists are correct.
P0335 is a standard OBDii code for a problem with the crankshaft speed sensor.
P0340 is a standard OBDii code for a problem with the camshaft speed sensor.
I suspect that the engine needs to crank for more than a pre-defined period, without starting, before the ECU will try to operate with no cam signal. (Or vice-versa on some non V6 engines). Try cranking for at least 10 seconds. If no start then try at least 20 seconds.
It looks like both the crank and cam sensors connect directly to the Simtec ECU. So if your sensors are good then the fault must be in the loom feeding the sensors. Most likely the mating halves of the connectors on the sensors.
I find it hard to believe that both sensors failed at the same time. So I'm also wondering under what circumstances a failed crank sensor could induce a false positive in the cam sensor.
Ive changed both of the sensors for original parts cheaked the timing and it is spot on. still no joy. ( No lights on )
I had the car in a garage to get repaired. they did get it running. However. The heater bypass solenoid ( vacume switch ) that is broken. they just unplugged that and it started. the car ran for 3 days. I went to work on saterday and had to walk back home. I just dont understand how a part for the heater will stop the car from running. there are two vacume pipes, one goes to the heater bypass valve and the other looks like it goes into the bulkhead. the electric cable is a two pin cable.
my guess is that it is something really stupid like a relay or the fuel cutoff switch if it has one.
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I have finally found the name for that bloody broken part. It is called the " Intake duct switch over valve solenoid valve "
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Is it not the secondary air valve, GM part nr 90466214?
In which case it's allowing air from the secondary air pump into the exhaust manifold following a cold start. To help burn rich fuel until the exhaust heats up.
I don't know exactly how these work on the X20XEV, but on a V6, some folks disable the secondary air pump and just do without it, more trouble than it's worth. Doing so might make HC too high for a minute or two whilst the exhaust heats.
Disconnecting the valve might cure the fault. But might also introduce a fault code.
Might be useful to check for a split hose between the pump and the valve.
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There is a new old stock secondary air system valve, GM 90466214, on eba (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-By-Pass-Valve-Coolant-Control-Original-Part-GM-90466214-Vauxhall-850425/383265299451?epid=649783567&hash=item593c645bfb:g:Rq4AAOSwkQJdpy7F)y at the moment. It's grubby looking so it hasn't sold, so the seller has relisted it several times. Now starting at £15.00 + postage @ £3.75. I'd 'make an offer' and see what happens. Can't be worse than one from a scrapper. If you do buy the valve then blow through the vacuum ports with compressed air.
This electric solenoid valve switches vacuum to actuate the secondary air injection valve that sits to it's left in your photo (in the other thread). This injection valve is not the HBV heater bypass valve.
The injection valve inlet hose connects to a one way (aka check) valve that is screwed onto a metal pipe that is bracketed to the engine. V6 check valves are made by Pierburg, yours might be as well. This pipe in turn will connect to the secondary air pump. When the air pump is running and the solenoid activated vacuum will open the secondary air injection valve and air pumps into the exhaust ports. This should only happen when the engine is cold.
So you don't want the secondary air injection valve to be failed or otherwise stuck open.
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There is a new old stock secondary air system valve, GM 90466214, on eba (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-By-Pass-Valve-Coolant-Control-Original-Part-GM-90466214-Vauxhall-850425/383265299451?epid=649783567&hash=item593c645bfb:g:Rq4AAOSwkQJdpy7F)y at the moment. It's grubby looking so it hasn't sold, so the seller has relisted it several times. Now starting at £15.00 + postage @ £3.75. I'd 'make an offer' and see what happens. Can't be worse than one from a scrapper. If you do buy the valve then blow through the vacuum ports with compressed air.
This electric solenoid valve switches vacuum to actuate the secondary air injection valve that sits to it's left in your photo (in the other thread). This injection valve is not the HBV heater bypass valve.
The injection valve inlet hose connects to a one way (aka check) valve that is screwed onto a metal pipe that is bracketed to the engine. V6 check valves are made by Pierburg, yours might be as well. This pipe in turn will connect to the secondary air pump. When the air pump is running and the solenoid activated vacuum will open the secondary air injection valve and air pumps into the exhaust ports. This should only happen when the engine is cold.
So you don't want the secondary air injection valve to be failed or otherwise stuck open.
Sir you are a star. I have just bought that part as mine is fuba. I am having a hell of a time to locate a part even a second hand part from a breakers. mine is broken off so it does not work at all.
Thank you very much for the info and the link.