Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: GastronomicKleptomaniac on 04 May 2020, 10:35:50
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Disclaimer - I am not a pro, I am self-taught with 15 years experience. I can give my views on products, but if you buy them and don't like them, I'm not to blame. Also, none of the products are, to my knowledge, edible.
A couple of OOFers have asked for a beginner's guide to detailing. I can't stress enough, I have only learned by doing. There are courses you can attend, but for the average person wanting to look after their own cars, they're expensive. Instead, I'm putting together a brief guide to detailing. I've used our Tigra as the main example, which is a 14 year old car. I spent a few hours bringing it back to a decent finish, but by no means concours. For absolute technical detailing, strap on your beard and head over to www.detailingworld.co.uk - a great bunch of people with an insane appetite for, er, detail.
There are thousands of different products you could buy for every conceivable purpose. Like most hobbies, you could spend a great deal of money - IMHO it's generally diminishing returns. I'll make reference to various ones I've used and how I've found them. I'll just go through the process, mentioning them as and when.
The car
For this I've used our Tigra. It's our biffabout car, previously been damaged and repaired by a blind man on a galloping horse. But, it's a nice metallic black. It had sat under some trees for about 4 months before I started this, so it was coated in bits of tree, bird doings, and general filth. The wheels are painted to a fairly terrible standard, so I haven't done anything with them other than blast them with water and foam. Please, take a moment to think how suave you would look in a motor like this. Steve McQueen "drove" a Puma in the late 90s, but he made the wrong choice of two-seat shenanigans.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49854360302_a7754a7df9_m.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iXsCqf)BEGINNING EDITED (https://flic.kr/p/2iXsCqf) by Pe Te (https://www.flickr.com/photos/144915889@N03/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49854359957_4904cab83e_m.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iXsCji)IMG_20200503_115208501 (https://flic.kr/p/2iXsCji) by Pe Te (https://www.flickr.com/photos/144915889@N03/), on Flickr
Preparation
Because the car is covered in all sorts, I want to strip it back to basically bare paint. There are various ways to do this. I like to do as much as possible without touching the paint, because the more times you touch a dirty car, the more chance of making more scratches.
Because it's an old car, and because I know I'm going to polish and wax it immediately, I use All Purpose Cleaner. You can buy big bottles from various detailing companies. I use it for most things - interior deep cleans, wheels, door shuts - but in this case I'm mixing it roughly 1:8. Into a bottle with a foaming head with some hot water and sprayed over the car. Not ideal to do it in sunlight, try not to let it dry. ***Use APC at your own risk. If you use it too strongly it could cause damage to the paint***
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49854061051_c8a7b86b3c_m.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iXr6sK)IMG_20200503_115530853 (https://flic.kr/p/2iXr6sK) by Pe Te (https://www.flickr.com/photos/144915889@N03/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49854359912_1a80420e3a_m.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iXsCiw)IMG_20200503_120236297 (https://flic.kr/p/2iXsCiw) by Pe Te (https://www.flickr.com/photos/144915889@N03/), on Flickr
Then let this start to soak. The idea is it will dissolve the tree sap and droppings, as well as any remaining waxes on the paint from previously.
Snow foam
You need a pressure washer to use snow foam. I use a Karcher K2, it works for me, but others are more highly recommended. In addition, you'll need a foam lance. All much of a muchness, about £25-30 for a brass one. They need cleaning out every year or so to work at their best, we've had ours for about five years now. I've replaced the bottle after a slight brute force incident.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49854359807_504fceced8_m.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iXsCgH)IMG_20200503_120408854 (https://flic.kr/p/2iXsCgH) by Pe Te (https://www.flickr.com/photos/144915889@N03/), on Flickr
I like AutoFinesse Avalanche or KKD Blizzard - both are good, won't strip waxes off, and available for about £20 for 5 litres. 5l normally lasts us about six months but we have a lot of cars. Mix this up, about 1:10 is usually right. Have a fiddle with the foam gun to get a reasonable amount of foam, you want it to cling to the paint. The idea being that it softens dirt and starts loosening it.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49854060981_dbd0c07fdb_m.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iXr6rx)IMG_20200503_120708143 (https://flic.kr/p/2iXr6rx) by Pe Te (https://www.flickr.com/photos/144915889@N03/), on Flickr
This is after a couple of minutes "dwelling" as the pros say.
Let it sit but don't let it dry on the paint. Especially try to avoid doing it in sunlight - again, there is potential to damage the paint. After 3-5 minutes, go round with the jetwash and rinse it off. Pay particular attention to panel gaps and around the windows, etc, get as much water around as possible to blast out as much dirt as you can. Never aim it at 90 degrees to the paint , always come at it from a shallow angle, so the water lifts the dirt away rather than driving it into the paint. Get the car nice and wet.
TO BE CONTINUED
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Two Bucket Method, and Wash Mitts
One of the best things you can do to keep the paint in good nick. Like most kids I grew up watching my dad throw a bit of washing up liquid into a tiny bucket, then use an old sponge all over the car. Then I saw how different a car looked if you did it properly...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49854060941_ba03e55eaa_m.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iXr6qR)IMG_20200503_123652926 (https://flic.kr/p/2iXr6qR) by Pe Te (https://www.flickr.com/photos/144915889@N03/), on Flickr
I'm using APC here, just to make sure it strips as much off as possible. For a normal wash, use proper car shampoo, mixed as directed on the bottle. I use Bilt Hamber Autowash, which is a tiny bottle but it's super concentrated. It works out at pennies per wash. See also Dodo Juice Born To Be Mild. Both are very good shampoos.
For the concours Mercedes, I use Meguiars Gold Class. It feels slicker and smells great, but is much more expensive. I was lucky to win a bottle last year, it's still my favourite but cost per wash is much higher. Avoid any of the supermarket or cheapy shampoos. They have higher salt and chemical contents that could harm your paint. And the super concentrates work out cheaper anyway...
The wash mitt - again, various types. That's a noodle mitt, I use this for any properly dirty cars, it's better for getting in around the panel gaps, lights, behind the mirrors. About a fiver for a decent one. The idea is they lift dirt away from the surface. You can get synthetic wool, or microfibre, but I only use those if the car is relatively clean to begin with, because they seem to soil quicker.
The two bucket method is simple. Dunk the mitt in the shampoo. Get it soaking. Wash a small area (a sixth of an Omega roof, or thereabouts). Then dunk it in the clean water, shake it about to get the dirt off, then back into the shampoo bucket, and wash the next bit. Lots of water means less risk of scratching. If you've not done this before, then look in the rinse bucket when you're finished - you'll see how much you've took off. Don't be afraid to empty and refill the rinse bucket if you need to. We use builders buckets because they hold more water, but also are Pete-proof...
Go over the whole car, a panel at a time, top to bottom. Make sure you get round all the corners, leave the bottoms of the sills and bumpers til last. Then go round with the jetwash, rinsing across the panels, until there's no soap left on.
Drying Towels
Everyone knows their dad used a chamois. They were the best thing, but now there's a load of better options. I can't remember what brands we use. I would avoid the Auto Finesse turqoise one, it's great for a few washes but soon stops drying properly. Something similar to this - https://www.waxworx.uk/shop/shop-by-category/accessories/waxworx-big-blue-drying-towel/ - is what you want. I've never used that one and can't comment if it's any good.
Pop it gently on the paint and then pat it down, before grabbing the edge and pulling it off the paint. Don't rub hard into the paint, you'll risk scratches. Think of the tablecloth trick and you won't go far wrong. Start with the biggest panels, and those that are closest to the sun, so you don't get water marks. Never use any washing powder on your cloths, it tends to ruin them.
Clay
I didn't clay the Tigra this time (because I had no clay, mainly, but also because it's been done fairly recently) - but this is another important step. Clay bars are about a tenner, I like Bilt Hamber's, because you can use plain water as lubricant. Medium grade is best if the car's not had it done before, soft grade if it has. Cut a piece off about an inch cubed. Pop this into a bowl of hot water for five minutes (tea break!) to soften it. You then want to mould it into your hand and work it across the paint in straight lines. Use a spray bottle with warm water (and maybe some shampoo, if you prefer) to keep the surface very wet. Multiple passes in both directions and you'll initially feel it grabbing, then eventually it'll glide off. Have a look at it...
https://procarreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/Clay-Bar-For-Cars-e1536262829701-750x410.jpg - not my photograph so I've linked it instead.
Keep rinsing the clay in a bucket of clean hot water, keep kneading and folding it to have a clean surface, and you'll feel the difference. If you're really strange, put your fingers in a cigarette wrapper and run them over the paint. If it snags, clay it a bit more.
The clay removes "surface contaminents", meaning the paint end up cleaner, and the polishing stage is much quicker, easier, and the pads and cloths last longer.
TO BE CONTINUED
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Polishing
Can you polish by hand? Yes. Can I be bothered? No. I use a DA polisher, mine is the Dodo Juice Buff Daddy, because I really like Dodo Juice as a company. It's a rebranded DAS6, which have been out for donkey's years. I got mine when I bought Zeke about eight years ago, it cost me about £100 IIRC. They are reasonably idiot proof, and a good machine to learn with. It's a Dual Action, which means it oscillates and rotates at the same time. Rotaries are available, apparently they are quicker for polishing but there's more risk of burning the paint. As I am a shaven ape, I stick with my DA.
For this car, I use a cheapy eBay foam pad. For the "proper" cars I use two pads and generally two polishes - all Menzerna, because they work. Menzerna 400 Heavy polish on a cutting pad, followed by Menzerna 2500 on a finishing pad. I then have a very soft foam pad to use a very fine cut polish if I need to, but generally those two are good enough for me.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49853521868_c372a517b2_m.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iXokbu)IMG_20200503_125033180 (https://flic.kr/p/2iXokbu) by Pe Te (https://www.flickr.com/photos/144915889@N03/), on Flickr
For this, I used Autoglym Ultra Deep Shine. It gives good enough results for this car, despite being designed as a hand polish. The pad has obviously been squashed in storage but soon plumps up once it's spinning...
DA onto speed 3 or 4. Three good blobs of polish on the pad, work it over a cool panel without switching the machine on. This spreads the polish over the pad... you can use your fingers if you'd prefer. Then push the polisher gently onto the panel, and switch it on. Work it over in overlapping strokes, moving at about an inch per second. Multiple passes, usually until the polish goes clear. Don't put any pressure on the machine, let the head do the work. If it's slowing down, you're pushing too hard and you'll burn through the lacquer. If there's a scratch you want rid of, take lots of multiple passes, not a few hard presses!
I cannot stress enough, read the instructions. Some polishes need time to cure, some need wiping immediately off. Use a nice thick microfibre cloth, gentle, multiple passes. Start with the gentlest polish and pad combo you have, try it, and see if it's giving you the result you want. If not, then go to a heavier cut pad or polish.
Use a clean toothbrush to regularly clean the pad off. You can buy dedicated brushes for the job, but as ever, it's got detailing tax on it.
In terms of polishes, there are hundreds. I've used Auto Finesse Tripple (lots of fillers but a good all rounder, easy to wipe down. Also very good by hand), Tough Prep (a bit harsher, less fillers, bit harder to work). Autoglym Super Resin is similar to Tripple, also very good. TurtleWax do some through EuroCarParts, they work but are a bit fussy on pad. As I said above, Menzerna are very nice to use with the right pads. All are similar in price. I've had excellent results with CarPro Essence - but it's a little more expensive than the others. Also a bit fussy, doesn't like sunlight when you're using it.
Whatever polish you use, remember that the polish is the abrasive part - literally breaking down the top layer of paint to show fresh, smooth lacquer. Some, such as Tripple, are designed to leae a little protection, but I would always, always follow up with a wax or sealant, to keep the shine for a lot longer. Most All In Ones such as Tripple will last a couple of weeks before the effects fade.
A good bright torch is the best way to see the paint - if it has scratches or swirl marks, they won't always show up until the sun hits it. Take multiple passes, inspecting after each, until the swirls are gone!
For product selection, you can mix and match with whatever works for you. All cars and paints are different, some will look and work better with one product than another. However, if you're only dipping your toe in, generally, sticking with one manufacturer will work - ie, follow Auto Finesse polish with Auto Finesse wax or sealant. A quick look at their website will tell you what has been tested with what - sticking with AF, Tripple followed by one of their waxes, for example.
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Pre-wax Prep
If you're going to wax or seal a car, it needs to be prepared. Some polishes will leave a trace behind that stops the Last Stage Product (LSP) adhering. It'll either look crap, or it won't last anywhere near as long as you want.
You can use IPA (industrial alcohol, not funky beer), to wipe down with. I however use "Stripped-Ease" by Angelwax. It's a spray bottle, smells quite nice but is a quick and easy wipe down, before it then evaporates. Work it gently, a small piece at a time, with a clean cloth, and you're good to go.
Waxes and Sealants
What's the difference between a wax and a sealant? At my level of knowledge, waxes contain carnauba wax with a mix of other ingredients to make it stick to your paint. A sealant uses various chemicals to stick to your paint. There are old-fashioned paste waxes (I'm a big fan of Collinite 476S, and Dodo Juice Blue Velvet). Liquid waxes (Meguiars Gold Class, great shine, terrible longevity). Spray waxes (Meguiars Ultimate Spray Wax, good finish). Liquid sealant (Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection - excellent shine and longevity but don't let it sit unbuffed). Spray sealants (I adore CarPlan Super Gloss, and it's much cheaper than the posh makes).
What do you go for? Whatever you prefer. I've got CarPlan SuperGloss on the Omega and vRS and it looks great and the water sheets off. And it's a doddle to use. I've used AG Extra Gloss on the Tigra, which is an easy to use liquid. I've got a few months of protection out of it before. Auto Finesse Tough Coat is also a piece of cake to use and lasts ages.
However, if I'm having a proper day of it, there's a tactile satisfaction to using a paste wax. A bit more effort in applying and buffing but they can look better than a sealant. Always use a good clean microfibre, apply in overlapping straight lines, whatever product you use. And read the instructions. The tougher products will weld themselves to your paint if you leave them too long, or apply them in sunlight, and then the neighbours will wonder when you learned all that Anglo-Saxon.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49853522268_cdc86a0abb_m.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iXokio)FINISHED EDITED (https://flic.kr/p/2iXokio) by Pe Te (https://www.flickr.com/photos/144915889@N03/), on Flickr
Ceramic coatings
Never used them, because I currently have no indoor facility. They get rave reviews but are incredibly fussy with prep, and some of them need no dust, no water, etc, for a few days. In all honesty, they're probably brilliant, but they're pricey and I don't feel the need to go to that level. Diminishing returns and all that.
Glass
A car won't look properly clean unless the glass is spotless. I use whatever spray glass cleaner comes to hand (Meguiars at the moment). Then coat all the outsides with Angelwax H2Go. As long as the glass is clean, it lasts ages. If you're not familiar with rain repellent - it means water beads up and runs off the screen once you're doing more than about 25mph. And even below that, it's much easier to see through. Again, clean microfibres, apply it, let it cure for 5 (tea break!), then buff off.
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That's no good to me, I just don't bother. But I'm sure it will be of interest to some on here, thanks for taking the time to do it. :y
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Good write up :y, no idea if accurate, as I use the one bucket method, with a Karcher. Or push the boat out and find a local Eastern European.
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GK, how often do you remove the bumpers/light clusters to properly clean the unseen edges?
Or is that just me :-\
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This is brilliant. Just what I wanted. Im going to print it off and keep it handy until it becomes second nature.
Thanks Gastro...
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This is brilliant. Just what I wanted. Im going to print it off and keep it handy until it becomes second nature.
Thanks Gastro...
Anyone fancy practicing on a big black one, just let me know....
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I have a big dark red one and a small bright red one to practice on. Also a small black one if I fell energetic.
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Thanks GK, great write-up! It's nice to have a how-to from someone that's clearly well practiced, but not as unrealistically anal as some you see on the net.
I do have a question though, what do you do on your cars over time? Clearly the above is quite an involved process, not exactly something you'd do weekly (not least because you'd end up thinning the lacquer/paint). So what do you do to keep it shiny, and how often, in between giving it a full going over?
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Good write up. :y
As I said previously, my lad did it as a living for years so he has the light rails, reflector boards etc. He also did dent repair etc but changed jobs a couple of years back and left all of his clobber in my garage, even though he has his own house. ::) It's a lot of gear. :y
As you know, it can take many hours, but worth the results at the end. :y
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GK, how often do you remove the bumpers/light clusters to properly clean the unseen edges?
Or is that just me :-\
Usually if theyve been parked up for a while, other than that... When winter is over and I start using them again.
In between times, I tend to snowfoam, rinse, and use Autoglym Aqua Wax to dry. If they haven't got too dirty... :y
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Thanks GK .... I think ...... :-\
You've just cost me £180.00 ..... I'll let you know in a couple of weeks time if I'm gonna love you or hate you ...... :D :D
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Thanks GK .... I think ...... :-\
You've just cost me £180.00 ..... I'll let you know in a couple of weeks time if I'm gonna love you or hate you ...... :D :D
... you've bought a Tigra?! ;)
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Thanks GK .... I think ...... :-\
You've just cost me £180.00 ..... I'll let you know in a couple of weeks time if I'm gonna love you or hate you ...... :D :D
... you've bought a Tigra?! ;)
Nah .. but I probably now need a new keyboard .. this one just got sprayed in beer !!! :)
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Couple of questions.
Firstly how much would a professional charge to do that on say an Omega?
Secondly glass treatment. I am interested in that AngelwaxH2go. Is that readily available should the shops ever reopen?
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Couple of questions.
Firstly how much would a professional charge to do that on say an Omega?
Secondly glass treatment. I am interested in that AngelwaxH2go. Is that readily available should the shops ever reopen?
You don't need to wait for the shops to open, available here...... :y
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Angelwax-Sealant-Ultimate-Repellant-Lasting/dp/7392460455?th=1
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https://www.waxworx.uk/shop/shop-by-category/glass/angelwax-h2go250/
This is our "local" detailing shop, he's always good for recommendations. Worth a message to see if he's still at work :)
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Good write up. :y
As I said previously, my lad did it as a living for years so he has the light rails, reflector boards etc. He also did dent repair etc but changed jobs a couple of years back and left all of his clobber in my garage, even though he has his own house. ::) It's a lot of gear. :y
As you know, it can take many hours, but worth the results at the end. :y
Well, you're not far from me if you want to practice your dent removal and detailing skills ;D
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Can I use Fairy Liquid?
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Can I use Fairy Liquid?
Only if you're a woman. ;)
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Can I use Fairy Liquid?
Only if you're a woman. ;)
Being the modern man, I know where the fairy is. I think.
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Can I use Fairy Liquid?
Only if you're a woman. ;)
Being the modern man, I know where the fairy is. I think.
In the bath with a laptop, awaiting a nice cup of tea... :D
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Can I use Fairy Liquid?
Only if you're a woman. ;)
Being the modern man, I know where the fairy is. I think.
In the bath with a laptop, awaiting a nice cup of tea... :D
I have finished the cuppa, and the cake :)
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...........
As I said previously, my lad did it as a living for years so he has the light rails, reflector boards etc. He also did dent repair etc but changed jobs a couple of years back and left all of his clobber in my garage, even though he has his own house. ::) It's a lot of gear. :y
Well, you're not far from me if you want to practice your dent removal and detailing skills ;D
;D
I'm ok on the detailing but never tried his dent repair stuff. He was a tinny/panel beater at crash repair so grew up doing it. :y
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Can I use Fairy Liquid?
Its for hands that do dishes. You tell us.
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Can I use Fairy Liquid?
No, but I suspect you already knew that. ;D
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Could this be made a sticky, or go into the guides section ?
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Good shout :y
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Is Menzerna 400 a similar product to Faracle G3 ? I have been using G3 but find it tends to leave a residue which seems almost greasy which I find hard to get rid of.
Ive used it today to get rid of biggish scratches which it did reasonably well, but looking at the finish with the sunlight on it there are lots of swirls which I don't know how to get rid of now.
Don't want to keep trying over and over in case I burn through the lacquer. Using a cheapish Silverline polisher with adjustable speed set to slowest with a pink foam pad.
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Had an email to say that most of the stuff I ordered is on its way ... but they are out of that Angelwax stuff, and the sealant I ordered .. so I've ordered them from another source, delivery will be late next week .... so
Question if I may ....... does the angelwax stuff and then the sealant have to be done straight after the polish .. or can it be a few days later ??? Just need to know if I can do the wash/clay/polish and then wait for the other bits or should i wait and do it all in one day ????
Very new to this as you can tell .... :)
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Question if I may ....... does the angelwax stuff and then the sealant have to be done straight after the polish .. or can it be a few days later ??? Just need to know if I can do the wash/clay/polish and then wait for the other bits or should i wait and do it all in one day ????
Very new to this as you can tell .... :)
My thoughts are to do in one day if possible as the surface will get dust and minor abrasives sitting on it even after a day, especially if outside, so you would have to clean these off before applying any finishing coatings or you will risk very minor markings to the previously prepared surface.
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Question if I may ....... does the angelwax stuff and then the sealant have to be done straight after the polish .. or can it be a few days later ??? Just need to know if I can do the wash/clay/polish and then wait for the other bits or should i wait and do it all in one day ????
Very new to this as you can tell .... :)
My thoughts are to do in one day if possible as the surface will get dust and minor abrasives sitting on it even after a day, especially if outside, so you would have to clean these off before applying any finishing coatings or you will risk very minor markings to the previously prepared surface.
That makes sense ... so I'll wait until everything is here ..... thanks for the input !
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Is Menzerna 400 a similar product to Faracle G3 ? I have been using G3 but find it tends to leave a residue which seems almost greasy which I find hard to get rid of.
Ive used it today to get rid of biggish scratches which it did reasonably well, but looking at the finish with the sunlight on it there are lots of swirls which I don't know how to get rid of now.
Don't want to keep trying over and over in case I burn through the lacquer. Using a cheapish Silverline polisher with adjustable speed set to slowest with a pink foam pad.
if it's leaving a residue then you are applying too much, or not working it enough to break it down. That would also explain some of the swirls. Are you using a damp mop head, and is it in good condition and clean? They don't last long
G3 is quite coarse, so you might need to swap to G10 before applying your final polish. You do need to wash off any remaining product before moving to the next one, but that's true of any polishing procedure.
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I think I was using a little too much. Using plenty of water and a new mop head. Did a bit more today with less G3 and more water and it looks better. Might buy some G10 or the Manzema Gastro uses.
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Inspired, and because Mrs Builder's MOT is due in a few weeks (not counting the 6 month extension ,or i could leave it till late November ;D )
I've just spruced up her Astra estate a bit ,washed it with wash n wax :-X
then spent about 2 hours on the headlamps ....
800 , 1500 , 2000 , T-cut on the electric mop ,then a final hand polish
the headlights look much better ,the car is "cleaner" ;D
now my Omega looks dirty and has dull headlamps :(
so more fresh air and "daily exercise" required :-X
at least the local lepers are staying well away from my work area :P
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G3, should be used with a damp cloth, or spray bottle on a lite mist.
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Well Ive cracked on with the rubbing down of scratches with 1200 / 1500/ 2000/ 2500 grit wet & dry. Then G3 again ,but using less of it with more water. Then used Farecla scratch remover for the finer swirls etc. I had it in the shed and it seems like a much finer version of G3 so thought I would give it a go, and its worked quite well.
I probably need to go back to the start of this thread now and proceed from there.
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Are you going to help us on interiors at some stage please? The Volvo still smells like a new car but I am nervous based on past experience of treating the leather with Autoglym stuff. Previous cars seem to lose that new smell when you treat the leather an d you end up with no smell or a different neutral smell.
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Are you going to help us on interiors at some stage please? The Volvo still smells like a new car but I am nervous based on past experience of treating the leather with Autoglym stuff. Previous cars seem to lose that new smell when you treat the leather an d you end up with no smell or a different neutral smell.
Its going to be weeks before I'm doing any more detailing, having just stsrted demolishing everything in the garden...
Very briefly - Chemical Guys interior shampoo is great for carpets and cloth, dilutes down into a spray bottle. Use a stiff brush, let it dry. Then vacuum.
For leather, I use Angelwax foaming leather cleaner, and then their "Hide-rate" leather feed. Its doesn't seem to kill the smell.
For everything hard inside I use Kleen Freaks interior detail spray, it leaves a nice matt-satin finish rather than the shiny finish beloved of cheapy car washes. Bottle lasts ages and it smells great too.
I hate hanging air fresheners, so I use Chemical Guys spray bottles, usually once a week. :y
None of these are cheap but they all last ages if used as directed.
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Wow - thanks very much
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I do my seats the old fashioned[?] way and use saddle soap and hide food.
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I now have all the stuff listed/recommended .... so all I need is an "overcast" day ...and a bit of "willingness" .... still unsure if I should practice on SWTSMBO shopping trolley (c l i o as the filter does weird things) .. or go straight at the Audi .... (just under £200 to clean /polish a car !! I must be mad !!)
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I didn't spend money as I already had some stuff in the shed, but spend a lot of hours over four days and was knackered at the end of it.
Not great pics, but hopefully give an idea. Main thing is I managed to get rid of all the big scratches on various panels on the car.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Y00LLn9b/IMG-0584.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ctqLVcfn)
(https://i.postimg.cc/qRjCRVkN/IMG-0583.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qh67bF6r)
That is a reflection on the n/s/r corner by the way, although it looks like something running down the paintwork.
(https://i.postimg.cc/3JW2kR0Y/IMG-0582.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bscZMqRB)
(https://i.postimg.cc/SxM8GvGP/IMG-0580.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xX9cfghG)
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Wow :o
Stunning ,well done :)
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Thanks Dave. Considering its almost 19 years old and done over 187k miles, Im more than happy with it.
There are still imperfections close up which annoy me, but a full respray is the only thing that would cure that. Worst bit by far is a patch of lacquer on the roof which got burnt through by pigeon crap. Its about an inch wide by two inches long. Ive lacquered over it again to make sure it doesn't get worse, but it sticks out like a sore thumb, which is a shame.
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I now have all the stuff listed/recommended .... so all I need is an "overcast" day ...and a bit of "willingness" .... still unsure if I should practice on SWTSMBO shopping trolley (c l i o as the filter does weird things) .. or go straight at the Audi .... (just under £200 to clean /polish a car !! I must be mad !!)
Most of what you bought will probably last for years though, as a lot of quality products are used in small amounts to achieve the required result.
At least that's what you tell swmbo if she sees the receipt.
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Great work Mig! Love that colour.
Was it ex-VX, your car? I'm told my KW02- plated one was a demo...
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That's a lovely looking car, Albs. It's great that you can keep costs down by doing the repairs and maintenance yourself. Keep the tinworm at bay and that will do you for years. Well done...young 'un ;D
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Great work Mig! Love that colour.
Was it ex-VX, your car? I'm told my KW02- plated one was a demo...
No idea tbh. Not sure how I would find out either ? Would be interested to know though.
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That's a lovely looking car, Albs. It's great that you can keep costs down by doing the repairs and maintenance yourself. Keep the tinworm at bay and that will do you for years. Well done...young 'un ;D
Tinworm issues attended to last year Steve. Just got to check regularly that it doesn't creep back again when Im not looking.
Now need to change the cambelt & Aux. belt, sump off to clean oil strainer, change oil & filters, paint sunroof surround, and a few other little jobs. Then it will probably be time to start all over again. Its a bit like painting the Forth bridge.
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Great work Mig! Love that colour.
Was it ex-VX, your car? I'm told my KW02- plated one was a demo...
No idea tbh. Not sure how I would find out either ? Would be interested to know though.
is the original owner/first keeper a dealer stamp/name at the front of service history book ;)
BUT...
KW=Northampton registered
and 02= 2002
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Im at work at the moment, but will try and remember to have a look tomorrow.
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Great work Mig! Love that colour.
Was it ex-VX, your car? I'm told my KW02- plated one was a demo...
No idea tbh. Not sure how I would find out either ? Would be interested to know though.
is the original owner/first keeper a dealer stamp/name at the front of service history book ;)
BUT...
KW=Northampton registered
and 02= 2002
Not any more they're not. Data protection and all that crap ::)
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Great work Mig! Love that colour.
Was it ex-VX, your car? I'm told my KW02- plated one was a demo...
No idea tbh. Not sure how I would find out either ? Would be interested to know though.
is the original owner/first keeper a dealer stamp/name at the front of service history book ;)
BUT...
KW=Northampton registered
and 02= 2002
Reason it's KW, is GM use to store most of there cars in Corby, and pre-register them there, Hence Northamptonshire reg, They Had rows of Pre-rrg cars, nothing to do with artificially boosting sales figures,,, unlike ford who ship cars to hire companies at Low prices, then buy them back as pre-owned low mileage.
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In the box for delivering dealers stamp on page 3 of the service book it says
Vauxhall Fleet management
c/o GE capital fleet services
Dovecote business park
Old Hall rd.
Sale Cheshire.
20/08/02
Im non the wiser tbh.
First two years / 33k miles, it was serviced by Camden motors ltd. Vauxhall in Aylesbury
Then Evans Halshaw Milton Keynes up to 2008 / 115k miles.
Seems it lived in TB country for the first 6 or 7 years.
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In the box for delivering dealers stamp on page 3 of the service book it says
Vauxhall Fleet management
c/o GE capital fleet services
Dovecote business park
Old Hall rd.
Sale Cheshire.
20/08/02
Im non the wiser tbh.
First two years / 33k miles, it was serviced by Camden motors ltd. Vauxhall in Aylesbury
Then Evans Halshaw Milton Keynes up to 2008 / 115k miles.
Seems it lived in TB country for the first 6 or 7 years.
GE capital. Were the finance company GM used for all there Finance, Staff at GM use to get a whopping discount on cars, the higher up the management better discount,keep them couple years,then trade-in for another.
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I didn't spend money as I already had some stuff in the shed, but spend a lot of hours over four days and was knackered at the end of it.
Not great pics, but hopefully give an idea. Main thing is I managed to get rid of all the big scratches on various panels on the car.
Worth a couple of bob in parts now then ;D ;D ;D
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In the box for delivering dealers stamp on page 3 of the service book it says
Vauxhall Fleet management
c/o GE capital fleet services
Dovecote business park
Old Hall rd.
Sale Cheshire.
20/08/02
Im non the wiser tbh.
First two years / 33k miles, it was serviced by Camden motors ltd. Vauxhall in Aylesbury
Then Evans Halshaw Milton Keynes up to 2008 / 115k miles.
Seems it lived in TB country for the first 6 or 7 years.
GE capital. Were the finance company GM used for all there Finance, Staff at GM use to get a whopping discount on cars, the higher up the management better discount,keep them couple years,then trade-in for another.
Sounds like it was a Vauxhall company car in its early life then ?
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I didn't spend money as I already had some stuff in the shed, but spend a lot of hours over four days and was knackered at the end of it.
Not great pics, but hopefully give an idea. Main thing is I managed to get rid of all the big scratches on various panels on the car.
Worth a couple of bob in parts now then ;D ;D ;D
Don't you start !! I really am too old and knackered for that game now Rob. Nice to see you still posting btw.
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Wow :o
Stunning ,well done :)
Yep ,ditto that ^^ :y :y
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In the box for delivering dealers stamp on page 3 of the service book it says
Vauxhall Fleet management
c/o GE capital fleet services
Dovecote business park
Old Hall rd.
Sale Cheshire.
20/08/02
Im non the wiser tbh.
First two years / 33k miles, it was serviced by Camden motors ltd. Vauxhall in Aylesbury
Then Evans Halshaw Milton Keynes up to 2008 / 115k miles.
Seems it lived in TB country for the first 6 or 7 years.
GE capital. Were the finance company GM used for all there Finance, Staff at GM use to get a whopping discount on cars, the higher up the management better discount,keep them couple years,then trade-in for another.
Sounds like it was a Vauxhall company car in its early life then ?
Same first keeper as my old Omega and that was a KP52 plate. :y