Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: fcc-pt on 03 August 2020, 18:59:38
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Engine spark plugs are completely immersed in oil!
What's failing here?
I mean obviously that head cover o-rings are the culprits but something else is failing.
I think that the breather system can be clogged up...
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Its the camcover to head gasket.
GM ones horrifically expensive. Pattern universally shit. Ad the bolts must be 8Nm, much more, you can deform the cam covers.
Blocked breathers can cause the gaskets to fail, but poorly fitted or poor quality gaskets tend to not last long.
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Engine spark plugs are completely immersed in oil!
What's failing here?
I mean obviously that head cover o-rings are the culprits but something else is failing.
I think that the breather system can be clogged up...
Easy, failed cam cover gaskets. That will be down to the usual combination of optimistic design, overlong oil changes, blocked breathers and just nipping up the cam cover bolts to stop the leak.
The good news is that it's a straightforward job to fix: new gaskets, fitted properly.
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Today I removed the oil radiator and it was a pain in the ass really!
Not even sure how I'll be able to put the new one back without unbold the metal oil pipes :(
Anyways, I'm positive I should go ahead and do head gaskets, clean up the breathers as well, replacing the thermostat and do the head covers... hey that seems a rebuild!
I'm starting to feel that I should take compression reads right?!?
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Today I removed the oil radiator and it was a pain in the ass really!
Not even sure how I'll be able to put the new one back without unbold the metal oil pipes :(
Anyways, I'm positive I should go ahead and do head gaskets, clean up the breathers as well, replacing the thermostat and do the head covers... hey that seems a rebuild!
I'm starting to feel that I should take compression reads right?!?
What makes you want to change the head gaskets? :o If they're not leaking, leave them well alone.
If you've got the induction off, then 20 Euros on a thermostat would be sensible.
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Today I removed the oil radiator and it was a pain in the ass really!
Not even sure how I'll be able to put the new one back without unbold the metal oil pipes :(
Undo the metal pipes by oil filter.
Do NOT be tempted to bend the pipes.
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Today I removed the oil radiator and it was a pain in the ass really!
Not even sure how I'll be able to put the new one back without unbold the metal oil pipes :(
Anyways, I'm positive I should go ahead and do head gaskets, clean up the breathers as well, replacing the thermostat and do the head covers... hey that seems a rebuild!
I'm starting to feel that I should take compression reads right?!?
What makes you want to change the head gaskets? :o If they're not leaking, leave them well alone.
If you've got the induction off, then 20 Euros on a thermostat would be sensible.
Not sure that that i've a head gasket failure but water was missing in particular on city short runs also considerable hoses pressure.
Do you think that the failed oil radiator can be the root of it?
What you mean by "...induction off..." ?
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Today I removed the oil radiator and it was a pain in the ass really!
Not even sure how I'll be able to put the new one back without unbold the metal oil pipes :(
Undo the metal pipes by oil filter.
Do NOT be tempted to bend the pipes.
I surely forced them more than a bit I guess... they are incredible hard!
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What makes you want to change the head gaskets? :o If they're not leaking, leave them well alone.
If you've got the induction off, then 20 Euros on a thermostat would be sensible.
Not sure that that i've a head gasket failure but water was missing in particular on city short runs also considerable hoses pressure.
Do you think that the failed oil radiator can be the root of it?
What you mean by "...induction off..." ?
Plenum, intake manifolds.
Some diagnosis before you tore it apart would have been advisable: sniffer test to check for combustion gasses in the coolant; pressurising the coolant system and checking the cylinders for water with a boroscope(or a £5 camera attachment for your phone ;) )
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What makes you want to change the head gaskets? :o If they're not leaking, leave them well alone.
If you've got the induction off, then 20 Euros on a thermostat would be sensible.
Not sure that that i've a head gasket failure but water was missing in particular on city short runs also considerable hoses pressure.
Do you think that the failed oil radiator can be the root of it?
What you mean by "...induction off..." ?
Plenum, intake manifolds.
Some diagnosis before you tore it apart would have been advisable: sniffer test to check for combustion gasses in the coolant; pressurising the coolant system and checking the cylinders for water with a boroscope(or a £5 camera attachment for your phone ;) )
Searching for combustion gases where not possible since I had and still have the cooling system polluted with oil!
But yes I can go with a pressure test I guess.
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Also engine is 220000 km 23 years!
Not sure if doing heads is a bad thing right?!?
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Today I removed the oil radiator and it was a pain in the ass really!
Not even sure how I'll be able to put the new one back without unbold the metal oil pipes :(
Anyways, I'm positive I should go ahead and do head gaskets, clean up the breathers as well, replacing the thermostat and do the head covers... hey that seems a rebuild!
I'm starting to feel that I should take compression reads right?!?
What makes you want to change the head gaskets? :o If they're not leaking, leave them well alone.
If you've got the induction off, then 20 Euros on a thermostat would be sensible.
Classic fear driven over reaction to the oil cooler failure...
Although if it's a '98 car, then the head gaskets are a service item ;)
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Also engine is 220000 km 23 years!
Not sure if doing heads is a bad thing right?!?
I did mine at 270,000km because I knew they were leaking. Engine ran fine, but the gasket was leaking coolant into both back cylinders. When I got them off both gaskets were rotten, which suggests insufficient coolant changes. Otherwise, the engine was perfect: honing marks in the bores; barely any carbon on the valves; valveseats cleaned up with a few turns of the tool, so weren't really worth touching; valve stem seals were still good, although I replaced them with new ones from the gasket set. It's a lot of work, and at least £100 in parts. And only worth doing if there is a proved fault, mileage covered is not a feasible reason.
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It deserves a new life, I was this close to replace it by a new rebuilt engine but too damn expensive!
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It deserves a new life, I was this close to replace it by a new rebuilt engine but too damn expensive!
:y or you could try and find a good secondhand engine. I just bought a whole car for £450 and the engine has no leaks at all. I was so amazed that the first thing I did was to check the dipstick to make sure there was oil in it.
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And the oil dip stick probed for crude!
Well, a swap could be the thing but unfortunately there are no omegas around as far as i know.
They were very expensive at the time. I've occasionally saw 2 or 3 V6 2.6 never a 3.0.
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I need a compression gauge from ebay/amazon, any recommended brand?
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I need a compression gauge from ebay/amazon, any recommended brand?
it doesn't really matter, unless you're going to be using it every day. One with a rigid extension to fit down the spark plug tube will be easier to use.
If you have an air compressor, then a leak-down tester is much more useful
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I need a compression gauge from ebay/amazon, any recommended brand?
it doesn't really matter, unless you're going to be using it every day. One with a rigid extension to fit down the spark plug tube will be easier to use.
If you have an air compressor, then a leak-down tester is much more useful
I don't see how I can do a proper leak down test with cold engine :o
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I need a compression gauge from ebay/amazon, any recommended brand?
it doesn't really matter, unless you're going to be using it every day. One with a rigid extension to fit down the spark plug tube will be easier to use.
If you have an air compressor, then a leak-down tester is much more useful
I don't see how I can do a proper leak down test with cold engine :o
It is a all relative hot or cold, so if you compare the cylinders, if one is way down on the others then you know there's a problem with that one. With 6 to measure you should get a good average reading and it will be pretty obvious.
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I need a compression gauge from ebay/amazon, any recommended brand?
it doesn't really matter, unless you're going to be using it every day. One with a rigid extension to fit down the spark plug tube will be easier to use.
If you have an air compressor, then a leak-down tester is much more useful
I don't see how I can do a proper leak down test with cold engine :o
That's theoretically true for all of the tests. If taking readings then you're looking for differences between cylinders, and changes between tests. That's how you use leakdown testers to track engine deterioration against time. This is SOP for race and aircraft engines.
If using pressure to create/diagnose leaks on a stationary engine, it helps if the engine is up to temperature. But it isn't essential.