Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Discussion Area => Topic started by: Auto Addict on 23 May 2021, 13:58:10
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Thoughts on using to power a dash cam please.
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Personally, I would go straight to the fuse box...
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They're quite chunky, and you still have to run the power lead to the top of the screen. That always looks terrible unless you can hide all of it behind the trim panels.
A 12v to USB socket adapter is tiny, and cheap; one with just output leads is even more compact.
I would be looking for an ignition switched live near the courtesy light. I used the sunroof feed when I fitted a dashcam to the Omega.
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They're quite chunky, and you still have to run the power lead to the top of the screen. That always looks terrible unless you can hide all of it behind the trim panels.
A 12v to USB socket adapter is tiny, and cheap; one with just output leads is even more compact.
I would be looking for an ignition switched live near the courtesy light. I used the sunroof feed when I fitted a dashcam to the Omega.
Ignition switched would turn it off when parked up though. Some folk like it on (or, at least, motion sensor switched) permanently.
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They're quite chunky, and you still have to run the power lead to the top of the screen. That always looks terrible unless you can hide all of it behind the trim panels.
A 12v to USB socket adapter is tiny, and cheap; one with just output leads is even more compact.
I would be looking for an ignition switched live near the courtesy light. I used the sunroof feed when I fitted a dashcam to the Omega.
Ignition switched would turn it off when parked up though. Some folk like it on (or, at least, motion sensor switched) permanently.
I had my Smart's dash cam fed from a permanent live feed via a gizmo that supposedly monitored the battery voltage, so I could use its parking mode. A fortnight sat on my drive while we were away flattened the battery. :(
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They're quite chunky, and you still have to run the power lead to the top of the screen. That always looks terrible unless you can hide all of it behind the trim panels.
A 12v to USB socket adapter is tiny, and cheap; one with just output leads is even more compact.
I would be looking for an ignition switched live near the courtesy light. I used the sunroof feed when I fitted a dashcam to the Omega.
Ignition switched would turn it off when parked up though. Some folk like it on (or, at least, motion sensor switched) permanently.
In that case I'd be looking at an auxiliary battery and split charger relay. Surely powering from the OBD port will kill the car battery, or does the adapter switch off the outlet side. I've hard wired our dash cams from the fuse box ignition live using the hard wire kit. The wire goes up the A Pillar (behind the A Pillar airbag) and under the headlining to the rear view mirror. Unfortunately, the dash cam internal battery which should last X amount of time for the motion detection to stay active, goes off with the ignition. ::)
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They're quite chunky, and you still have to run the power lead to the top of the screen. That always looks terrible unless you can hide all of it behind the trim panels.
A 12v to USB socket adapter is tiny, and cheap; one with just output leads is even more compact.
I would be looking for an ignition switched live near the courtesy light. I used the sunroof feed when I fitted a dashcam to the Omega.
Ignition switched would turn it off when parked up though. Some folk like it on (or, at least, motion sensor switched) permanently.
I had my Smart's dash cam fed from a permanent live feed via a gizmo that supposedly monitored the battery voltage, so I could use its parking mode. A fortnight sat on my drive while we were away flattened the battery. :(
According to this a day or two is all you can get before the cut off works, so I guess you're not meant to go on holiday ;D
https://www.thedashcamstore.com/blog/will-a-dashcam-kill-my-car-battery/
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The reason I ask is the Astra K fuse box is under the info display, and I can't see a way to hide the wiring to get to it.
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Behind the clocks and up the A post... ;)
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Behind the clocks and up the A post... ;)
Can't see how to get the wire into to fuse box though :-\
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Behind the clocks and up the A post... ;)
Can't see how to get the wire into to fuse box though :-\
If you can find a convenient connection in the boot, can you get an extension/hard wire kit for your dash cam so that you can go above the headlining. When I wired up my rear dash cam I was surprised at how easy I could get a thin three metre piece of trim from the back to the front. I just pulled the headlining down a bit from the tailgate rubber, slid the trim over the headlining and pushed and wiggled it until it came out the front. I taped the cable to it and pulled it through. I then moved it across so that it came out right by the rear view mirror. :y Just thought that might be another option if you can hide the wire under the D Post trim.
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Behind the clocks and up the A post... ;)
Can't see how to get the wire into to fuse box though :-\
If you can find a convenient connection in the boot, can you get an extension/hard wire kit for your dash cam so that you can go above the headlining. When I wired up my rear dash cam I was surprised at how easy I could get a thin three metre piece of trim from the back to the front. I just pulled the headlining down a bit from the tailgate rubber, slid the trim over the headlining and pushed and wiggled it until it came out the front. I taped the cable to it and pulled it through. I then moved it across so that it came out right by the rear view mirror. :y Just thought that might be another option if you can hide the wire under the D Post trim.
I had thought of that, but the ODBII socket seems the eaiest solution, I would use a switched one that went off with the ignition.
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I can see why you'd be reluctant to start stripping a new car, as was I when I fitted the dash cam in my new cars. Audi fit metal A Post clips which are an absolute shit to get out without bending them.
This guy in the link did it from the fuse box but he did remove the trims. The easiest way is behind the dash and up the A Post door trim rubber, but be aware that doing it that way the cable will cross over the A Post airbag, hence why I removed my trims to get the cable under/in front off the airbag.
https://www.astrakforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=3672
If the switched OBD socket is the easiest option, then try that. :-\
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I can see why you'd be reluctant to start stripping a new car, as was I when I fitted the dash cam in my new cars. Audi fit metal A Post clips which are an absolute shit to get out without bending them.
This guy in the link did it from the fuse box but he did remove the trims. The easiest way is behind the dash and up the A Post door trim rubber, but be aware that doing it that way the cable will cross over the A Post airbag, hence why I removed my trims to get the cable under/in front off the airbag.
https://www.astrakforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=3672
If the switched OBD socket is the easiest option, then try that. :-\
Yes, I've seen those photos, I understand that you need to fit the cable under the airbag, which it appears he didn't.
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I used an inline cigarette lighter socket and then hardwired it to the back of the stereo. As long as you are careful, you can pick up a switched live pretty much anywhere. I'm not 100% on the output of the obd port having enough current.
EDIT I'm wrong, from a quick Google 5 amp output.
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I used an inline cigarette lighter socket and then hardwired it to the back of the stereo. As long as you are careful, you can pick up a switched live pretty much anywhere. I'm not 100% on the output of the obd port having enough current.
The ODB socket has plenty of power to drive a dashcam.
Just mulling over options, at the minute.
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I'd meter out the courtesy light feed as a starting point. :y
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I'd meter out the courtesy light feed as a starting point. :y
I'm not confident enough to go down that route I'm afraid :'(
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Remove rear view mirror, find a 12v ign controlled wire, join into that,, normally it's in the sunroof lead
Don't use interior lights they are earth switches. Only supplies when door is open
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Remove rear view mirror, find a 12v ign controlled wire, join into that,, normally it's in the sunroof lead
Don't use interior lights they are earth switches. Only supplies when door is open
I haven't got a sun roof.
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Got an angle grinder ? :D
Its difficult to help some people. ;D ;D
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You may not have the sunroof, but that doesn't mean the loom isn't there. Might just need a fuse or bridged relay connection to activate.
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You may not have the sunroof, but that doesn't mean the loom isn't there. Might just need a fuse or bridged relay connection to activate.
I'd agree with this, it's how I fitted the one in mine.
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Even plod Omegas had sunroof wiring. Which was really handy for fitting a taxi meter up there.
A sharp tap from one of these Trim tool (https://www.amazon.com/ArtCreativity-Squeaking-Pounding-Carnival-Birthday/dp/B082LRQPR2) will remove the trim. Everything else is torx screws.
An easy weekend's work start to finish. Especially on a new car where everything is nice and clean :y
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Even plod Omegas had sunroof wiring. Which was really handy for fitting a taxi meter up there.
A sharp tap from one of these Trim tool (https://www.amazon.com/ArtCreativity-Squeaking-Pounding-Carnival-Birthday/dp/B082LRQPR2) will remove the trim. Everything else is torx screws.
An easy weekend's work start to finish. Especially on a new car where everything is nice and clean :y
Fitting a dashcam using existing wiring is an easy hour's work
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There's that, but it is worth taking a bit of time to get it right and nice ;)
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There's that, but it is worth taking a bit of time to get it right and nice ;)
All you can see on mine is about two inches of cable as it enters the dash cam from the headlining, hidden from my view by the rear view mirror, and hidden by the dark screen band from outside.
By contrast, when I drive my sister-in-laws Mercedes, her dash cam cable runs from the 12V dash socket, up past (and in the way of) the heater controls and radio and over the dash to the low down screen suction fixing (it's a convertible so she can't make use of the headlining). Combine this with her phone charger cable (older Merc so no wireless charging) and my hand gets tangled up in the cables when selecting a gear. It looks a pigging mess like that. ::) She's waiting for me to tidy it up apparently. :)
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All you can see on mine is about two inches of cable as it enters the dash cam from the headlining, hidden from my view by the rear view mirror, and hidden by the dark screen band from outside.
By contrast, when I drive my sister-in-laws Mercedes, her dash cam cable runs from the 12V dash socket, up past (and in the way of) the heater controls and radio and over the dash to the low down screen suction fixing (it's a convertible so she can't make use of the headlining). Combine this with her phone charger cable (older Merc so no wireless charging) and my hand gets tangled up in the cables when selecting a gear. It looks a pigging mess like that. ::) She's waiting for me to tidy it up apparently. :)
Mine was the same; the camera and wiring were only visible if you looked for them.
I hate seeing charger cables and wiring all over the place so it's worth spending an hour tidying it all so you can't see any of them
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I have a camera in my MX-5 convertible, you can see about 1.5inch of cable, the rest is behind the trim. The camera is so small (no screen) that you have to look hard to notice it. It's about an inch diameter and round and about 3-4 inches wide.
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I have to fit one in the Ftype at some point, that will be from a nominated courtesy light supply
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First thing I did when I got my first Insignificant (bought new) home, was rip the dash out :D
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Remove rear view mirror, find a 12v ign controlled wire, join into that,, normally it's in the sunroof lead
Don't use interior lights they are earth switches. Only supplies when door is open
I haven't got a sun roof.
It will have the forward facing ADAS camera and probably auto dimming rear view camera :y
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Remove rear view mirror, find a 12v ign controlled wire, join into that,, normally it's in the sunroof lead
Don't use interior lights they are earth switches. Only supplies when door is open
I haven't got a sun roof.
It will have the forward facing ADAS camera and probably auto dimming rear view camera :y
Only the Sri came with a forward facing camera, the Elite doesn't.
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Remove rear view mirror, find a 12v ign controlled wire, join into that,, normally it's in the sunroof lead
Don't use interior lights they are earth switches. Only supplies when door is open
I haven't got a sun roof.
It will have the forward facing ADAS camera and probably auto dimming rear view mirror :y
Fixed :P
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Remove rear view mirror, find a 12v ign controlled wire, join into that,, normally it's in the sunroof lead
Don't use interior lights they are earth switches. Only supplies when door is open
I haven't got a sun roof.
It will have the forward facing ADAS camera and probably auto dimming rear view mirror :y
Fixed :P
? ? ? ? ? ? ?
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Remove rear view mirror, find a 12v ign controlled wire, join into that,, normally it's in the sunroof lead
Don't use interior lights they are earth switches. Only supplies when door is open
I haven't got a sun roof.
It will have the forward facing ADAS camera and probably auto dimming rear view mirror :y
Fixed :P
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Do you have an auto dimming rear view camera?
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As a thought, why does the camera have to go by the mirror?
What’s to stop it getting mounted bottom centre? Hard wired to the fuse box an run the lead out the back of the display trim and have the camera just there :-\
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As a thought, why does the camera have to go by the mirror?
What’s to stop it getting mounted bottom centre? Hard wired to the fuse box an run the lead out the back of the display trim and have the camera just there :-\
You can't see as far from down there ;D
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As a thought, why does the camera have to go by the mirror?
What’s to stop it getting mounted bottom centre? Hard wired to the fuse box an run the lead out the back of the display trim and have the camera just there :-\
It would be easier to just take a photo of the reflections in the bonnet. Easier, but not as useful.
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Sounds like an improvement over some dashcam footage that barely distinguishes between day and night :D
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Sounds like an improvement over some dashcam footage that barely distinguishes between day and night :D
Nick Knowles says we've all got to have one, or he'll be out of a job on morning tv.
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Oh well, he'd best get a hobby then ;D
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Remove rear view mirror, find a 12v ign controlled wire, join into that,, normally it's in the sunroof lead
Don't use interior lights they are earth switches. Only supplies when door is open
I haven't got a sun roof.
It will have the forward facing ADAS camera and probably auto dimming rear view mirror :y
Fixed :P
? ? ? ? ? ? ?
Do you have an auto dimming rear view camera?
:y
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Right, I've sussed how to feed the wire.
Which fuse would you tap into, the Astra K forum suggests fuse 31, I would have though fuse 26?
No.
Circuit
1
–
2
Climate control system, fan
3
Power seat driver side
4
Cigarette lighter/Power outlet front
5
–
6
Power window front
7
ABS
8
Heated steering wheel
9
Body control module
10
Power window rear
11
Sunroof
12
Body control module
13
Seat heating (only on vehicles without alarm horn)
14
Exterior mirror
15
Body control module
16
Body control module
17
Body control module
18
Body control module
19
Data link connector
20
Airbag system
21
Climate control system
22
Central locking system, tailgate
23
Electronic key system
24
Power seat memory function
25
Airbag system steering wheel
26
Ignition switch/Steering column lock
27
Body control module
28
USB socket
29
–
30
Selector lever
31
Rear window wiper
32
Transmission control module
33
Anti-theft alarm system/Power sounder
34
Parking assist/Side blind spot alert/Infotainment system/USB socket
35
OnStar
36
Info display/Instrument cluster/CD player
37
Infotainment system, radio
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I have to fit one in the Ftype at some point, that will be from a nominated courtesy light supply
So you can catch it's "thermal events" on camera?
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Circuit #1 with an appropriate fuse ;)
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Right, I've sussed how to feed the wire.
Which fuse would you tap into, the Astra K forum suggests fuse 31, I would have though fuse 26?
28 USB socket
Assuming it's ignition switched
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Right, I've sussed how to feed the wire.
Which fuse would you tap into, the Astra K forum suggests fuse 31, I would have though fuse 26?
28 USB socket
Assuming it's ignition switched
I'll test it out :y
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Right, I've sussed how to feed the wire.
Which fuse would you tap into, the Astra K forum suggests fuse 31, I would have though fuse 26?
28 USB socket
Assuming it's ignition switched
I'll test it out :y
Also consider the impact of adding extras to a circuit. Slapping in a bigger fuse isn't a solution. At least the empty circuit keeps it straightforward.
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Right, I've sussed how to feed the wire.
Which fuse would you tap into, the Astra K forum suggests fuse 31, I would have though fuse 26?
28 USB socket
Assuming it's ignition switched
I'll test it out :y
Also consider the impact of adding extras to a circuit. Slapping in a bigger fuse isn't a solution. At least the empty circuit keeps it straightforward.
The empty circuit was a constant live.
All fitted and working now :y
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Surely it needs a permanent feed :-\
Current draw in sleep mode should be negligible.
Anyhoo...
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Surely it needs a permanent feed :-\
Current draw in sleep mode should be negligible.
Anyhoo...
I understand what you mean but I don't really need it on all the time, car is parked safely at night'