Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: JamesV6CDX on 31 May 2022, 20:20:51
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I made a start on swapping out Migalot's transmission on his lovely V6 Elite, today - replacing a clapped out AR25 autobox, with the stronger AR35 model used on the 3.0 / 3.2.
Obviously, safety first, so vehicle supported using 2 x three tonne axle stands:
Really important - the back wheels must be chocked for this job! You will be removing the prop-shaft (and gearbox!) so placing the lever in "P" will do nothing........
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/k205/jamesv6cdx/IMG_9290.JPG?width=450&height=278&crop=fill)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/k205/jamesv6cdx/IMG_9296.JPG?width=450&height=278&crop=fill)
Next step - removing both catalytic converters (required for access, to get at / remove the gearbox)
Remember, these cars are 20+ years old now, the bolts are OLD and rusty, especially exhaust bolts, and WILL break if you don't use care!
Don't use WD40, it's useless as a lubricant - use either plus-gas, or, PB Blaster (amazing stuff). Saturate the bolts holding the catalytic converters to the exhaust. Also saturate the downpipe to manifold nuts. Walk away for an hour, come back, saturate some more.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/k205/jamesv6cdx/IMG_9297.JPG?width=450&height=278&crop=fill)
Believe it or not, it took me a couple of hours to get all four bolts undone, which hold the cats to the mid-sections. This was with repeated spraying, and gently working them back and forth. I managed to get three out of four out intact, and only broke one, which I will try and extract tomorrow (failing that, I'll drill and rethread it). I was quite pleased to get three - usually, they all break!
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/k205/jamesv6cdx/IMG_9298.JPG?width=450&height=278&crop=fill)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/k205/jamesv6cdx/IMG_9299.JPG?width=450&height=278&crop=fill)
Next step was to remove the manifold to downpipe nuts. This is where I ran into the first real concern - they would not budge for love nor money, despite using a 6 sided, correct socket. I think a ham-fisted mechanic has been in there before, because the nuts were somewhat rounded, and eventually, the socket was just spinning.
Thankfully, my old friend, the IWRIN socket set, came to the rescue. These sockets have saved my bacon on more occasions that I care to remember, and are worth their weight in gold. Using these - I managed to get all four off. It made me remember how awkward the nuts are to get at on the DBW engine, due to the pre-cats. Had to use a selection of bars/adapters, but got there in the end:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/k205/jamesv6cdx/IMG_9321.JPG?width=450&height=278&crop=fill)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/k205/jamesv6cdx/IMG_9317.JPG?width=450&height=278&crop=fill)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/k205/jamesv6cdx/IMG_9311.JPG?width=450&height=278&crop=fill)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/k205/jamesv6cdx/IMG_9319.JPG?width=450&height=278&crop=fill)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/k205/jamesv6cdx/IMG_9323.JPG?width=450&height=278&crop=fill)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/k205/jamesv6cdx/IMG_9322.JPG?width=450&height=278&crop=fill)
Anyway, now off with the prop-shaft. The bolts fell in a great position, meaning I could get them all with a short stubby spanner on the bolt head, and a ratchet on the nuts:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/k205/jamesv6cdx/IMG_9328.JPG?width=450&height=278&crop=fill)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/k205/jamesv6cdx/IMG_9329.JPG?width=450&height=278&crop=fill)
Off with the multiplug, which feeds the shift solenoids. Also removing the selector switch plug, and the gear linkage:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/k205/jamesv6cdx/IMG_9332.JPG?width=450&height=278&crop=fill)
We now remove all of the bellhousing bolts APART From one big 19mm bolt on each side, to hold it in my now. There are four 13mm bolts at the bottom, and various ones around the housing, including at the top. I forgot how much of a contortionist you have to be, to get the very top ones!
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/k205/jamesv6cdx/IMG_9338.JPG?width=450&height=278&crop=fill)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/k205/jamesv6cdx/IMG_9339.JPG?width=450&height=278&crop=fill)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/k205/jamesv6cdx/IMG_9346.JPG?width=450&height=278&crop=fill)
For the very topmost one, I find that an extension bar is too long, but a socket on the ratchet doesn't fit - so, I made a small extension bar, using two adaptors:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/k205/jamesv6cdx/IMG_9347.JPG?width=450&height=278&crop=fill)
Remove the front drip-tray, to allow access to the crank pulley bolt (this will become clear in a moment).
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/k205/jamesv6cdx/IMG_9349.JPG?width=450&height=278&crop=fill)
There is a bung between the engine block and the back of the flex-plate (flywheel). Laying on your back, turn the engine (only ever clockwise!) until you see the first 15mm bolt appear, through this aperture. Undo and remove it. Slowly turn the engine, until the next one appears - and remove it. So on and so forth, until you've got all six. If you go too far, DON'T turn the engine backwards like some shady garages do - keep going clockwise, until it comes around again.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/k205/jamesv6cdx/IMG_9351.JPG?width=450&height=278&crop=fill)
Once you've undone these six bolts, the torque-converter comes away with the gearbox as one unit. This is REALLY important, because leaving the TC bolted to the flywheel will ruin the oil seal of the TC nose, and cause a significant ATF leak.
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Now place a heavy duty Jack (ideally a transmission one) under the gearbox, but in any case it must have rubber padding, don't go metal-on-metal to the sump. Jack up the transmission just to take the weight of it.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/k205/jamesv6cdx/IMG_9366.JPG?width=450&height=278&crop=fill)
Now, remove the two 15mm bolts holding the gearbox mount to the chassis.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/k205/jamesv6cdx/IMG_9362.JPG?width=450&height=278&crop=fill)
Because the two 19mm bellhousing bolts are in, the gearbox won't separate from the engine at this time, but it will lower down. This will give you good access to the loom / electrical plugs on the passenger side of the box. This is the ideal opportunity to make sure everything is disconnected - including the speed sensor at the back.
Also remove the cable ties holding the gearbox breather, to the engine/gearbox loom.
Once you're satisfied everything is disconnected, raise the gearbox back up using the jack, and loosely re-install the two gearbox mounting bolts for safety. Now undo the two remaining 19mm bellhousing bolts.
Also, remove the oil cooler pipes, and loop them back on each other to prevent any spillage.
You can now once more remove the two rear mounting bolts, and SLOWLY lower the gearbox and torque converter out of the car, as one unit. You can see it starting to split:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/k205/jamesv6cdx/IMG_9367.JPG?width=450&height=278&crop=fill)
If you can, get an assistant to help hold the box steady, and gently lower the jack until it's on the ground. You can then simply wheel the damaged gearbox out from underneath the car:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/k205/jamesv6cdx/IMG_9371.JPG?width=450&height=278&crop=fill)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/k205/jamesv6cdx/IMG_9373.JPG?width=450&height=278&crop=fill)
That's it, for today. The old back won't manage anything else today. It's done me loads of good mentally, though, I forgot all of my worries whilst working on this, I totally forgot how therapeutic this kind of therapy is!
Further updates to follow. I will take today's progress as a win, especially given the intermittent rain, and the long delays by the rusty exhaust bolts!
Beer time.
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Wow bleddy good effort that James! 8)
Long time since we've had an actual working on an Omega thread. :y
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It's a fun job swapping an Autobox.....honest ;D ...... I remember swapping an AR25 for an AR35 with Daz on my old 2.6.
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Absolutely fantastic work, James! :y
I think that without your expertise and sheer hard work, my old friend would be now be in the scrapyard.
You're a diamond. :y :y :y
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Well done! Very informative, with great step by step pictures! Excellent!
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A decent days work that. :y
Brings back memories, but I think Im too worn out for that job now. First one I did, the box fell off the engine and just caught the side of my left hand as it landed. Still got the scar after 15 years. My hands were so cold I didnt feel it until later when they warmed up. ::)
Those were the days. ;D
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Wow bleddy good effort that James! 8)
Long time since we've had an actual working on an Omega thread. :y
Seconded. I should have took photos as I've been working on mine but I just get too into it to be faffing with my phone. Especially with a touchscreen.
Next project I'm getting a cheapy digital camera and using that.
Top writeup J!
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Also nice to see one in Moonland. And why is it on CD wheels? :y
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Also nice to see one in Moonland. And why is it on CD wheels? :y
It's actually a CD. I keep thinking it's an Elite because it's got Elite leather in it :D
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Also nice to see one in Moonland. And why is it on CD wheels? :y
It's actually a CD. I keep thinking it's an Elite because it's got Elite leather in it :D
That makes sense :y
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Great guide, Christ those auto boxes are heavy :o
Those downpipe bolts are a nightmare, I've resorted on occasion to using the smallest Irwin socket on the stud end and wound out the whole stud and nut
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As down pipes are off, drill them out, and replace with m8 nuts bolts n washers, makes it easier in the future..
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As down pipes are off, drill them out, and replace with m8 nuts bolts n washers, makes it easier in the future..
I agree , I just drilled my new replacement cat flanges :y
if bolts snap in future ,it's easy to replace a bolt without then having to try and drill out a snapped one first ;D
Lovely work though James :)
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James the Wizard has finished installing the AR35 and reports that the gear changes are "silky smooth". :y
I'm collecting it tomorrow and can't wait.
I feel like a kid on Christmas Eve. ;D ;D
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James the Wizard has finished installing the AR35 and reports that the gear changes are "silky smooth". :y
I'm collecting it tomorrow and can't wait.
I feel like a kid on Christmas Eve. ;D ;D
It drives like a different car. So pleased she’s saved from the scrappy :y
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Great result James. :y Impressive stuff, and the give away AR35 came along at just the right time. :y
Great job all round. :y
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Nice. Well done! :y
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Job well done.
I remember doing mine. It wouldn’t have happened without help from members on here especially Omegatoy. I owe him and the forum members and the forum an eternal debt of gratitude at a time when it was our only vehicle and we were penniless olive farmers.