Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => Omega Gallery => Topic started by: RallyArde on 03 February 2024, 15:35:39
-
This will be a long opening post... but in fall 2021 I bought one of my dream cars:
(https://i.imgur.com/4O2S7rz.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hXLQiTA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yzfpxjH.jpg)
Facelift saloon Omega with 3.0 litre V6 (X30XE), automatic gearbox and open diff. "They say you should never meet your heroes"- sentence kinda started to make sense, eventhough this was one the cheapest on the market, and mayde thatīs why it came with many faults:
-cambelt hasnīt been done for over 8 years, also the milage window was full
-cam covers were leaking oil
-minor issues with tempratures
-propshaft was wibrating
-handbrake didnīt feel right
-rear brake discs were gone
-brake lines were rusty
-dodgy repairs on the reardoors, also passengers side front had some corrosion
-and some other minor issues
Summer 2022:
(https://i.imgur.com/UVFdHoH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/E4vIwl5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EnUOOUH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zAMSdMk.jpg)
Did the timing belt, water pump, auxilary belt&tensioner.
(https://i.imgur.com/TWjRtmW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Rx4Ebam.jpg)
New thermostat and o-rings to water rail sorted out the heat issues 8)
(https://i.imgur.com/xFdoXCm.jpg)
Installed a second-hand-prop shaft.
(https://i.imgur.com/9P4wiLk.jpg)
Added new hand brake cable. After adjusting brake shoes, feeling and bite was spot on :y
Then I had move on the repair my daily driver, and I left this one to garage, yet Iīll had to sort out oil leaks, also managed to spun oil filter housing while changing new filter, which meant one oil leak more. Brakes were undone as well.
Spring 2023 I made VLog from oil leaks and solutions that I came up with:
Starting point:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=amvIT1OBWx0
Cock-up:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nnd6VSu320s
Oil filter conversion:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ce5yOMPAcnY
Alloy cam covers:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EH20jkGqvJc
Result:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0kh35Rqi9JI
Then it was time to fix those brakes:
(https://i.imgur.com/J5OLMUm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HzuuvLF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TQ4zMSs.jpg)
New lines and hoses all round.
(https://i.imgur.com/iwRpbCK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YuBxFJ3.jpg)
Rear calipers done, starting point didnīt look too good ;D
(https://i.imgur.com/kLBb5uk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/efmKRnC.jpg)
Also front calipers rebuilt, brackets cleaned and painted.
(https://i.imgur.com/TlSZyHq.jpg)
For budget reasons I used old discs (which werenīt actuacllu that bad) and add only new pads. In some point I will buy more high quality discs and pads.
The radiator draining plug was leaking, with short search on eBay, I found new one:
(https://i.imgur.com/9Tzduyi.jpg)
So this was an easy fix 8)
Before MoT I wanted fix exterior a bit, and here is a VLog which reveals most of work:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6z84KPX5KMg
And here is happy owner talking ;D :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hASh4IeA6uw
(https://i.imgur.com/7w8IEV8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ipjBvOa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hljCeia.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/a2cmj9y.jpg)
Rest of the summer I just kept on driving and enjoying. Despite having open diff, this is after all an Omega which means it does still go sideways, as long as you donīt lift an inch, outer wheel keeps spinning, cause if you do it bites and you en up having that inside wheel spin or "one tire fire" ::)
The after market rims are quite.. horrible and for that reason I gotse of these:
(https://i.imgur.com/34ZH2gH.jpg)
I will get new tyres during on this spring.
Future plans for the car is to keep on restoring it, fix the underside, take the rear beam off and add new bushes, also new bushes to front as well. And propably I will replace orignal diff with an LSD.
If I had time, I would like to convert this to manual, I already have a C25XE flywheel, but I havenīt bought other bits yet.
-
Excellent job :y
Buy the way, you sound a bit like Kimi on Youtube :D
-
Great work. :y
-
Thanks!
Well, I do have a finnish accent or like we call in here "rally english" ;D
-
Very nice :)
One thing ....
you seem to have fitted the steering wheel on the WRONG side of the car :o ;D :D
-
Nicely done, and it's cleaned up really well ... :y
-
Yeah thanks again :) By the way here Finland usually (except import cars) only the post office vans are right hand drives, Iīve actually driven few to garage lifter for tyre change at my daily job ;D
I havenīt done much for this car recently, but... Iīve got lots of bits for it. New subframe bushes and semi-trailing arm bushes (orignal GM), new ARB bushes (FAG) and Mintex brake pad installation kit with pins and rattle springs, previous owner had lost them and had to fabricate temporately those from stainless steel sheet. Also I bought OEM upper water hose, cause there is a coolant leak left top of the radiator and looks like (?) itīs the hose.
-
I start to work on with this one again...
(https://i.imgur.com/GxygcdB.png?4)
(https://i.imgur.com/L2NMFwb.png?4)
I fitted set new tyres and balaned the wheels during a lunch break ;D I got those tyres quite cheap from the company where Iīm working. Itīs chinese tire, but Iīve installed many set of those for customers and there hasnīt been bad feedback.
Iīve also started bodywork with this Omega, and those who had subscribed my Youtube- channel had propably noticed that there are two videos incoming today and tomorrow. I will add links here as well and later on lots of pictures ;)
-
Here are those two VLogs that I mentioned in my previous post:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62qXN-lswuQ
Iīm not 100% satisfyied of those repairs that I made, but at least Iīm getting more life time to that sill, cause I will propably replacing it in some point.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=geYScx6oOPk
I wanted to separate the wheel arch replacement for another video, so thatīs why having part 1 and part 2 :)
I got loads of bits and pieces in my other garage, new bushes, track rods, LSD with correct ratio etc. Obviously I need to assemble the car back together as well ???
-
Unfortunately I havenīt done much to the car, but I decided to made a little vid about how much wheel arch repair and paint job cost to me in terms of materials and other stuff that was needed for this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1eYHnRHbTRM
Obviously these are prices here in "upper" Finland :-X
-
Iīm a bit late with this post, as usual, but here are few pictures from the sill and wheel arch repair:
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_helma_pien.jpg)
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_helma5_pien.jpg)
Cutting rusted sections off from the side sill.
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_helma11_pien.jpg)
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_helma12_pien.jpg)
Welded couple of patches down there and some strong epoxy brushed on all areas that Iīve been working on. Like I said in those videos it would have been wiser to replace the whole sill instead of repairing it, but I didnīt have a proper replacement panel on hand, so for few years and MoTs this is the way weīre going :)
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_kaari_pien.jpg)
This was the starting point for rear wheel arch repair.
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_kaari2_pien.jpg)
The inner arch was quite crispy as well ::)
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_kaari3_pien.jpg)
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_kaari4_pien.jpg)
Some cutting and grinding...
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_kaari5_pien.jpg)
Fabricating the inner piece.
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_kaari6_pien.jpg)
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_kaari8_pien.jpg)
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_kaari9_pien.jpg)
Innen section fixed.
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_kaari13_pien.jpg)
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_kaari15_pien.jpg)
Welding done.
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_kaari22_pien.jpg)
Sanding, sanding and sanding ;D
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_kaari24_pien.jpg)
Masked up.
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_kaari26_pien.jpg)
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_kaari27_pien.jpg)
Some epoxy primer and acryllic filler.
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_kaari31_pien.jpg)
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_kaari33_pien.jpg)
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_kaari35_pien.jpg)
And thatīs a job done!
By this day Iīve already removed the masking and put some bits back on, but the next big step is the rear axle rebuilt, which Iīve been working on yesterday. Plan is to put new OEM-bushes and replace the original open diff with LSD 8)
-
Shame to go to all that work and not remove the C Pillar trim to paint it :-\
That said, looks like a good solid repair :y
-
Shame to go to all that work and not remove the C Pillar trim to paint it :-\
That said, looks like a good solid repair :y
I actually did take off some the C pillar trims, that I could leave edge of the re-sprayed and original area covered underneath. Only "visible" edge was left lower to the sill (covered mostly by the plactic trims as well), and even that could be barely seen :)
-
Shame to go to all that work and not remove the C Pillar trim to paint it :-\
That said, looks like a good solid repair :y
I actually did take off some the C pillar trims, that I could leave edge of the re-sprayed and original area covered underneath. Only "visible" edge was left lower to the sill (covered mostly by the plactic trims as well), and even that could be barely seen :)
Fair enough :y
It looked like you'd simply masked over it, which is a bit lazy...
-
Did you weld the inner and outer together, or use panel bond? From the factory, they're glued together...
-
Did you weld the inner and outer together, or use panel bond? From the factory, they're glued together...
Yeah, I did notice they are glued, but I thought in this case its wiser to just spot weld them together, eventhoug thatīs not full OEM solution :)
-
Did you weld the whole arch or just the repair?
-
Did you weld the whole arch or just the repair?
Well.. there is no "lip" at original section of the inner arch, so maybe thatīs your answer ;)
Back in to business, Iīve started the rear axle rebuilt:
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_rearbeam_pien.jpg)
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_rearbeam2_pien.jpg)
I dropped the whole beam down as one package, but in these pictures Iīve already released the subframe for cleaning up.
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_rearbeam3_pien.jpg)
All the dirt and rust removed.
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_rearbeam4_pien.jpg)
Spred some alcydic paint to subframe and to those supporting plates. I canīt wait to see inspectors face at the MoT ;D
Then it would time to start assemble things back togehter... but I need clean some rust from the underside of the cars chassis as well, looks like only surface rust :)
-
Some progress again... :)
https://youtu.be/wXalty3j11w
I also added part codes for original bushes at the end of the vid ;)
Iīve already ordered new gear selector seal for the automatic gearbox, so Iīll be sorting that out soon, at least trying to ;D
-
The project nearly stopped, well for three weeks at least:
https://youtu.be/MN4tH5s5NNU
There are actually few minor things still before MoT left to be done. Exhaust flanges both right and left are sligthly leaking after I installed it back, so possibly they just arentīt sitting correctly. Also I need to change those 17" OEM wheels to the car. So were are not far off... :)
-
Well done :)
Good luck with your test :y
-
Thanks! :)
Car got an MoT pass at Monday 8)
Few pics of what happened during the last few weeks:
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_rearbeam13_pien.jpg)
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_rearbeam15_pien.jpg)
The whole rear beam rebuilt and fitted back to the chassis.
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_uudet_raidetangot_pien.jpg)
Frontend done as well.
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_ar35_stefaa6_pien.jpg)
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_ar35_stefaa5_pien.jpg)
Managed to replace selector shaft seal, eventually, and both sump gaskets.
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_syylari2_pien.jpg)
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_syylari3_pien.jpg)
Leaky radiator replaced by brand new one.
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_pesua2024_2_pien.jpg)
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_pesua_2024_pien.jpg)
Quick wash to get all the dust off from it ::)
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_mot_2024_pien.jpg)
Proper rims finally ;)
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_mot_2024_2_pien.jpg)
After I got that MoT pass, I checked gearbox oil level and added 0.3 litres of ATF, so it should be good for now. Next monday will get this car to allignment. Just canīt wait to see the improvement of handling after that and how that LSD works at actual limits of grip ;D
-
Love to see a restoration project thread like this. Look forward to further updates. :y
-
Thanks again for your feedback! :)
Yesterday car got allignment done, so it drives now like Omega should 8) Steering is beautifully light, allthough after E90 325i it feels a bit... weird ;D
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_akku_kannake2_pien.jpg)
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_akku_kannake3_pien.jpg)
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_akku_kannake5_pien.jpg)
I fabricated new bracket for the battery, cause previous owner (or one of the ten of them ::) ) had lost it and battery was supported with single washer.
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_muuli_pien.jpg)
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_muuli2_pien.jpg)
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_muuli3_pien.jpg)
Also took a bit longer drive (140km) with this one through nice B-roads. Car also seems pretty driftable now, eventhough I got drive more carefully nowdays, cause Iīve already lost my driving license once for... drifting :-X And that V6 sound under acceleration is just so raw, compared to inline-6 in my daily BMW >:D
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_muuli4_pien.jpg)
Pulled some trailer as well, there is certainly enough torque for that ;)
By this far the car is almost finished, but I still have future plans, maybe manual-conversion, maybe better exhaust, etc... Weīll see.
-
What are the alignment settings?
The steering shouldn't feel overly light, but there's always a very slight dead spot straight ahead... This is a normal side effect of a steering box when compared to a rack, but weird is never a positive description. :-\
-
What are the alignment settings?
The steering shouldn't feel overly light, but there's always a very slight dead spot straight ahead... This is a normal side effect of a steering box when compared to a rack, but weird is never a positive description. :-\
There must be some kind of misunderstanding... :) but what I meant that steering feels completely normal, like in all Omegas that I`ve driven, hence "beautifully light" ;) Point was that after BMWs heavy steering I had to get used to it again ;D
Allignment is spot on and was done to factory tolerances with proper equipment and by professional mechanic.
-
That's not the answer to my question.
I was after specific numbers, because the "official" settings are as vague as a politician being asked a question.
Light, beautiful or otherwise, suggests an issue. That's not to say that the Omega has particularly heavy steering... One finger with some weight rather than both hands... But from experience, when an Omega has light steering, it's usually followed about 1,000 miles later with dangerously worn tyres.
Perhaps the definition of light is more subjective than it should be, but nevertheless, the actual numbers from your alignment will confirm how 'correct' the alignment is ;)
-
That's not the answer to my question.
I was after specific numbers, because the "official" settings are as vague as a politician being asked a question.
Light, beautiful or otherwise, suggests an issue. That's not to say that the Omega has particularly heavy steering... One finger with some weight rather than both hands... But from experience, when an Omega has light steering, it's usually followed about 1,000 miles later with dangerously worn tyres.
Perhaps the definition of light is more subjective than it should be, but nevertheless, the actual numbers from your alignment will confirm how 'correct' the alignment is ;)
Could you then share for all of us, what are the correct figures for Omega (with stock suspension) in camber, caster and toe-in values? Would be easier to make a comparison after that to see how much off my allignment is with factory spec settings. I was given a document from the allignment as well, so I can then compare.
-
They're readily available here with some digging, but I will try and find them to post a link ;)
Basically a firm in the UK took the time to establish the ultimate specific setting for the Omega about 15 years ago and they've not been improved on since. The difference between an Omega set "in the green" and one set spot on is like chalk and cheese.
Bare bones is 1°10" negative camber, 0°03" toe in at the front,
Thrust angle of 0°00 at the rear. The rear toe and camber are whatever they end up at to get the thrust angle at 0°00.
These are the same regardless of Standard, HD or LSC suspension.
-
This thread gives some insight into the murky depths, but there are several thousand posts on the subject over the years.
https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=38995.0
Front settings:
Camber -1°10"
Caster ~ 4.5° to 5.5° ideally similar side to side and can be improved by moving the subframe.
Toe 0°03" to 0°05" toe in. Total toe 0°06" to 0°10" and even side to side.
Rear:
Thrust angle 0°00
Camber and toe should be similar side to side, but they are a single adjustment and the only number that matters is that the thrust angle is Zero. Nothing more or less, not even a gnats cock either way.
-
That's not the answer to my question.
I was after specific numbers, because the "official" settings are as vague as a politician being asked a question.
Light, beautiful or otherwise, suggests an issue. That's not to say that the Omega has particularly heavy steering... One finger with some weight rather than both hands... But from experience, when an Omega has light steering, it's usually followed about 1,000 miles later with dangerously worn tyres.
Perhaps the definition of light is more subjective than it should be, but nevertheless, the actual numbers from your alignment will confirm how 'correct' the alignment is ;)
Could you then share for all of us, what are the correct figures for Omega (with stock suspension) in camber, caster and toe-in values? Would be easier to make a comparison after that to see how much off my allignment is with factory spec settings. I was given a document from the allignment as well, so I can then compare.
Presumably from the sudden silence, the settings applied to your car are significantly different... ???
If you post a picture of the document you have of the settings applied to your car and if there's anything obviously out of sorts, then there's a wealth of experience here to help correct it.
-
Havenīt done much to car just washing and (today literally) sunday-driving, but few pics for breaking this sudden silence ;D
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_pesty9_2024_pien.jpg)
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_pesty9_2024_2_pien.jpg)
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_pesty9_2024_3_pien.jpg)
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_pesty9_2024_5_pien.jpg)
Car drives perceftly, it goes srtaight on the road and wants to skid in corners :) Maybe doesnīt feel as poky as my manual 325i with N52B25 (218hp), but still pretty quick compared to other traffic ;) Gearbox seems to work much better than in the last summer, with no leaks and correct amount of ATF inside ::)
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_kulmat_kunnossa_pien.jpg)
I managed to find my allignment sheet as well. To help translate; "varsin" means current value and "ennen" means value before allignment. Only difference for my other Omega is that this got more negative camber at the front, but in this case itīs a good thing, cause there lots of weight in front anyway.
My battery died right before MoT by the way so I had to borrow one from my daily driver, which Iīm running currently. So next week Iīll probably buy a new battery for this one, in order to get that other Omega on the road as well.
-
Just read this, noticed you say you've fitted LSD,, I us to put Amsoil in mine, not cheap but has additives for LSD already added.
-
About that alignment...
The front subframe would benefit from a slight tweak to bring the front left ball joint forward so that the caster is more in line with the front right.
The Thrust angle should be exactly zero. Nothing more or less.
And with that front camber and toe, you're front tyres will wear really quickly on the inner shoulders.
Correct them as previously suggested and the car will drive like a missile on rails in comparison. ;)
The fresh MoT is a testament to the work you have put in, and if there's one certainty in automotive life, an idle Omega will devour batteries :y
-
Just read this, noticed you say you've fitted LSD,, I us to put Amsoil in mine, not cheap but has additives for LSD already added.
Legit.Street Cars on YouTube is an Amsoil dealer and usually has a discount code running :y
-
Itīs been a long while, again, since last update for this one... But basically I just drove through september and october.
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_ajossa_9_2024_4_pien.jpg)
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_ajossa_9_2024_3_pien.jpg)
This is definately great car to pull my new trailer ;D
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_akkujuttu3_pien.jpg)
Also installed new battery and fixed positive terminal connector as well, it was muonted pretty poor way, especially the cable that goes to the starter motor ::)
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_ajossa_9_2024_pien.jpg)
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_ajossa_9_2024_2_pien.jpg)
Some mornings where pretty cold out here, despite threre was no ice, but still car was quite tail happy >:D
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_ronttarenkaat3_pien.jpg)
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_ronttarenkaat4_pien.jpg)
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_ronttarenkaat5_pien.jpg)
I also prepared a set of wheels for next summer (mayde for going track days?), cause I got 4 correct sized tires for free, that I fitted to these after market rims. Perceft for drifting/training 8)
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_season2024_end_2_pien.jpg)
Currently my driving season for this is over and Iīm using my daily drive Omega for winter. There are few things that I need to do before next summer... Car in the rain feels too snappy, which it didnīt in the last summer with same width (225) tyre, so something is not allright :-\ I didnīt spun, but there were couple of close calls, which there shouldnīt be with Omega. Almost like missing some feedback of rearend grip or the grip is harder to gain back than itīs used to be. All and on, I need to take car for re-allignment, eventhough it does go staight or doesnīt pull either direction, but itīs way too unpredictable now. Even my 325i feels more chuckable in the rain :'(
Iīm also planning some upgrades, maybe a stainless steel exhaust and better ari filter to the original air box.
Engine and transmission-wise the car has worked out nicely :y
-
Probably diff mounts. Makes the car feel like the subframe just fell off under load around a corner.
Sliding it around carparks won't do it (or the rest of the car) any good.
Always liked those original 17" 5 spoke Opel wheels 8)
-
Probably diff mounts. Makes the car feel like the subframe just fell off under load around a corner.
Sliding it around carparks won't do it (or the rest of the car) any good.
Always liked those original 17" 5 spoke Opel wheels 8)
The rearbeam is ok, threre is no play on any of the bushes or mounts of the diff. I donīt get any feeling of subframe coming off etc. The issue is when going for larger angles, you donīt get enough feeadback on the rearend though streering wheel and itīs sliding further than it used to do. Last summer there was no such issue, despite having old bushes all around. For comparison my daliy drive Omega drives spot on and like Omega youīll always catch it even on full-lock. Only variables I found are allginment and cheap chinese (RoadX) tires, allthough I had previously cheap Radburgs as well with no issues, it has to be something on the allignment.
EDIT:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZI207qabQ44
Just to give some reference, my daily drive in the wet at summer night ???
-
Whilst still shit, one brand of cheap tyres will perform unpredictably under certain conditions when compared to another.
If everything is playing free at the back and you haven't changed anything then I don't see how it can be an alignment issue :-\
To properly check the diff/rear subframe mounts, support but DO NOT lift the diff with a jack. Then undo one of the mount carriers. If the frame falls off, then the mount is done. Refit and repeat the other side.
You won't get any noise when these fail, but it will allow the weight at the back of the car to move in ways that you can't predict.
-
Minor update to this one and some future plans:
(http://www.borehammer.net/second_muokatut_kuvat/v6_omegab2_pien/omv6_catback2_pien.jpg)
I bought new stainless steel exhaust.
In the spring Iīm going to replace fuel filter and make a better connector for the battery, weld some sheet metal to right side sill, and defiantely do re-alignment. The car doesnīt handle in the corners/when losing grip normally, there are new bushes all around so everythig is tip top and the only negative variable is the allignment, the equipment was wrehter calibrated wrong or the rear toe angles are causing these issues. The problem isnīt that "subframe is about to come off"- feel, the problem is that I donīt feel the rearend grip like Iīve done before with this in summer 2023 (despite having old crappy bushes in that time) and like feel other Omegas and every car Iīve driven by this far. Omega shouldnīt be hard to catch, thatīs just the case.
I still have the manual gearbox conversion back in my head, but maybe nor for this year...?
Aircon-system needs re-filling by the way ;D
Hopefully more driving and less repairing in this summer :)
-
This thread gives some insight into the murky depths, but there are several thousand posts on the subject over the years.
https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=38995.0
Front settings:
Camber -1°10"
Caster ~ 4.5° to 5.5° ideally similar side to side and can be improved by moving the subframe.
Toe 0°03" to 0°05" toe in. Total toe 0°06" to 0°10" and even side to side.
Rear:
Thrust angle 0°00
Camber and toe should be similar side to side, but they are a single adjustment and the only number that matters is that the thrust angle is Zero. Nothing more or less, not even a gnats cock either way.
I use to have 1 camber,, and run the front track at 0- parallel.. running tyres at 35psi. 245/45/17
-
When I was trialling the vertical poly bushes, Tony at WIM suggested running zero front toe. It certainly tracked true down the road, but any effect on steering was potentially down to the bushes as geometry.
With standard bushes I only ever had about 0°06" so can't really say whether the way the car drove was down to the bushes or the geometry or a combination of both.
-
When I was trialling the vertical poly bushes, Tony at WIM suggested running zero front toe. It certainly tracked true down the road, but any effect on steering was potentially down to the bushes as geometry.
With standard bushes I only ever had about 0°06" so can't really say whether the way the car drove was down to the bushes or the geometry or a combination of both.
I found 0'' and 35psi increased tyre life,but didn't affect the handling, running at 30psi would allow for more tyre wear, especially in the centre,and on non-XL tyres gave more wear on the shoulders as the tyre flexed more. Hence I use to run XL at 35psi.
-
Some progress for this one :)
https://youtu.be/QpYjz1XK_zA
Canīt wait till next week... :D
-
Some progress for this one :)
https://youtu.be/QpYjz1XK_zA
Canīt wait till next week... :D
You hooligan. ;D Nice repair job. :y
-
Well done mate👍 and glad youre enjoying it not prancing about😎🤣👍👍