Omega Owners Forum
Trading Area => Cars for Sale & wanted => Topic started by: robson on 10 April 2025, 16:39:49
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My car in a recent post is still looking for a new home and I dont want it to be the breakers.
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Model spec may help? CD, CDX , Elite.....?
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Apologies, just read in a previous topic - a CD... :-\
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Apologies, just read in a previous topic - a CD... :-\
Yes, a mere company director.
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Pity it's not an Elite....I might have been at the back of a small queue had it been :y
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Can be made an Elite with minimal effort.
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Can be made an Elite with minimal effort.
Not sure I'd class replacing the cabin loom as "minimal effort" ;D
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Can be made an Elite with minimal effort.
Not sure I'd class replacing the cabin loom as "minimal effort" ;D
It will have everything in it. The relay harnessfor rear seat heating is plug and play. Likewise the front seats. If it has leather, it's already halfway there. Xenon's are another easy retrofit. And I am pretty sure that the wheels are bolt on >:D
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S /L rear suspension, Bose , rear blind, self dimming mirror, headlight levelling, Satnav.........
I did most of it to my old CD spec 2.5, but to do the whole job is not something I would call minimal.
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S /L rear suspension, Bose , rear blind, self dimming mirror, headlight levelling, Satnav.........
I did most of it to my old CD spec 2.5, but to do the whole job is not something I would call minimal.
Plus, you really need an Elite donor car to swap all the bits from.
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Much of it is plug and play, but it's something that was/is perfectly doable. The only thing I didn't fit to my plod estate was Bose, but there are better options available now... oh and the sunroof, but deleting that was probably an NCO from new.
The real question is whether it would be worth doing to a car needing other work.
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Cabin loom is quite different. Doable, mostly, but not trivial.
I believe the FL dash loom is different from memory as well. That would make it nigh on impossible, even once the dash is out.
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Dash loom difference is limited to the radio. Even plod estates had the wiring for rear blind and boot release on the dash along with roof wiring for sunroof and mirror. ;)
That said there are potential differences between earl and late facelift harness connectors. The mirror being a case in point.
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It's a moot point now as getting all the bits together would be the biggest challenge, even if it was worth the time.
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Can be made an Elite with minimal effort.
The actual point being not to make it an 'Elite' (a CD would never be an 'Elite' on paper - even if it was actually feasible / worth the effort with a CD), but had it been an Elite to be a source of certain parts....
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Can be made an Elite with minimal effort.
The actual point being not to make it an 'Elite' (a CD would never be an 'Elite' on paper - even if it was actually feasible / worth the effort converting a CD), but had it been an Elite to be a source of certain parts....
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C'mon fella's, the poor sod, sorry johnny, is only trying to sell his car. :D
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No problem Ronny - I don't think anyone was actually criticising robson's Omega. But the reality is one I learnt over 40 years ago - to stand a reasonable chance of selling any used car, not just an Omega, the trim level has to be near to the top spec, rather than nearer the base model level. I used to buy used Fords in the late 80' /early 90's, before moving to Vauxhalls, and they had to be a minimum of GL spec, preferably Ghias to have any reasonable chance of selling quickly and with a decent return. Vauxhalls (Cavaliers) likewise - GL / CD, and then the GLS /CD (not to be confused with the later Omega base GLS spec!!!). I hope it finds a good home - but had it been an Elite, I'm sure he wouldn't have had to repost the topic as he did... :y
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Yes it is a CD all I am trying to do is, even if I have to give it away, is to prevent the breakers trip. My sale is due to health problems otherwise I would not be trying to find a new owner.
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No problem Ronny - I don't think anyone was actually criticising robson's Omega. But the reality is one I learnt over 40 years ago - to stand a reasonable chance of selling any used car, not just an Omega, the trim level has to be near to the top spec, rather than nearer the base model level. I used to buy used Fords in the late 80' /early 90's, before moving to Vauxhalls, and they had to be a minimum of GL spec, preferably Ghias to have any reasonable chance of selling quickly and with a decent return. Vauxhalls (Cavaliers) likewise - GL / CD, and then the GLS /CD (not to be confused with the later Omega base GLS spec!!!). I hope it finds a good home - but had it been an Elite, I'm sure he wouldn't have had to repost the topic as he did... :y
My first Mig was a PFL 2.0 16valve CD in the dark metallic green, loved that car. When it finally succumbed to the dreaded tin worm i had to get another, which was a CDX Desmond. That one was my best car by miles.
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Nobody interested it looks like the breakers yard unless somebody has any bright ideas. Thanks for the input.
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sorry to jump in with a possibly silly but obvious statenent ........
if this is a complete working car with long mot too and very cheap price why is nobody after it ? is i the road tax thats against it or have you not got it advertised anywhere slse (ebay for eg ?)
dontvthink the model would put anyone off .a cd has plenty features .
sorry here if im stating the obvious
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sorry to jump in with a possibly silly but obvious statenent ........
if this is a complete working car with long mot too and very cheap price why is nobody after it ? is i the road tax thats against it or have you not got it advertised anywhere slse (ebay for eg ?)
dontvthink the model would put anyone off .a cd has plenty features .
sorry here if im stating the obvious
Because no one wants to put the effort in. The end result is just not worth it.
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yeah probably but it was confusing me !
needing a battery ,door sol and a bit of bodywork isnt much effort and the end result is a useable car . we are supposed to be a group of omega enthusiasts after all . maybee everyone on here who wants an omega has got what they want so dont need one which is why i wondered if it was advertised anywhere else ?
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sorry to jump in with a possibly silly but obvious statenent ........
if this is a complete working car with long mot too and very cheap price why is nobody after it ? is i the road tax thats against it or have you not got it advertised anywhere slse (ebay for eg ?)
dontvthink the model would put anyone off .a cd has plenty features .
sorry here if im stating the obvious
Because no one wants to put the effort in. The end result is just not worth it.
That is correct. I live locally to Robson and could take his Omega on, Regrettably though, and I wish I could say something different, I just cannot afford to take another one on. Mine already costs me a good percentage of my pensions, as they ARE expensive to keep going, and that is without the Road Tax and Insurance. I also cannot "store" one that is not being used, having just one garage and no space that is not classed as "public", so attracting Road Tax.
A great shame, but hey ho, such is life. ::) ::) ;)
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sorry to jump in with a possibly silly but obvious statenent ........
if this is a complete working car with long mot too and very cheap price why is nobody after it ? is i the road tax thats against it or have you not got it advertised anywhere slse (ebay for eg ?)
dontvthink the model would put anyone off .a cd has plenty features .
sorry here if im stating the obvious
Because no one wants to put the effort in. The end result is just not worth it.
That is correct. I live locally to Robson and could take his Omega on. Regrettably though, and I wish I could say something different, I just cannot afford to take another one on. Mine already costs me a good percentage of my pensions, as they ARE expensive to keep going, and that is without the Road Tax and Insurance. I also cannot "store" one that is not being used, having just one garage and no space that is not classed as "public", so attracting Road Tax.
A great shame, but hey ho, such is life. ::) ::) ;)
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sorry to jump in with a possibly silly but obvious statenent ........
if this is a complete working car with long mot too and very cheap price why is nobody after it ? is i the road tax thats against it or have you not got it advertised anywhere slse (ebay for eg ?)
dontvthink the model would put anyone off .a cd has plenty features .
sorry here if im stating the obvious
Because no one wants to put the effort in. The end result is just not worth it.
That is correct. I live locally to Robson and could take his Omega on. Regrettably though, and I wish I could say something different, I just cannot afford to take another one on. Mine already costs me a good percentage of my pensions, as they ARE expensive to keep going, and that is without the Road Tax and Insurance. I also cannot "store" one that is not being used, having just one garage and no space that is not classed as "public", so attracting Road Tax.
A great shame, but hey ho, such is life. ::) ::) ;)
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Don't know what happened there, but the post was duplicated and inserted in the previous one!! :o :o ::) ;D
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Thanks Lizzie for your post I might have to try ebay again, I got 2 time wasters when I tried ebay before.Its good to know that you are still active after your spell of bad health, Regards Ron
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Hello lizzie you made a post recently on bonnet struts I made a note of which you said were best but cant find it could you give me the name of the prefered supplier Regards Ron
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Hello lizzie you made a post recently on bonnet struts I made a note of which you said were best but cant find it could you give me the name of the prefered supplier Regards Ron
Thanks Robson. Yes, it is Autodoc, and the bonnet struts are Article No. 1281202500 made by JP GROUP. Paid £10.26 each x2, £28.10 all in including postage.
Very good quality, like the originals.
Hope that helps.
Liz :-* ;)
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Beware, facelift needs 290N struts, pre facelift is 240N. I think the threads are different too, facelift coarser.
JP GROUP 1281202500 Bonnet strut Extension Force: 240N - will struggle to lift the heavier facelift bonnet
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Thanks for the info
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Beware, facelift needs 290N struts, pre facelift is 240N. I think the threads are different too, facelift coarser.
JP GROUP 1281202500 Bonnet strut Extension Force: 240N - will struggle to lift the heavier facelift bonnet
Do not understand this.
I bought the struts, checked by Autodoc's system to match with my 2003 3.2 saloon, and they are doing the job perfectly.
Ron's Omega is a facelift like mine and surely as a 2.6 has the same struts. ::) ::) ::)
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Beware, facelift needs 290N struts, pre facelift is 240N. I think the threads are different too, facelift coarser.
JP GROUP 1281202500 Bonnet strut Extension Force: 240N - will struggle to lift the heavier facelift bonnet
Do not understand this.
I bought the struts, checked by Autodoc's system to match with my 2003 3.2 saloon, and they are doing the job perfectly, and NOT struggling to keep the bonnet up! ::) ::).
Ron's Omega is a facelift like mine and surely as a 2.6 has the same struts. ::) ::) ::)
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Beware, facelift needs 290N struts, pre facelift is 240N. I think the threads are different too, facelift coarser.
JP GROUP 1281202500 Bonnet strut Extension Force: 240N - will struggle to lift the heavier facelift bonnet
Do not understand this.
I bought the struts, checked by Autodoc's system to match with my 2003 3.2 saloon, and they are doing the job perfectly, and are MNOT struggling to keep the bonnet up! ::) ::).
Ron's Omega is a facelift like mine and surely as a 2.6 has the same struts. ::) ::) ::)
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Sorry, once more my posts are duplicating!! :-X :-X
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............I would add for clarification Ron that these aims have supported the bonnet very well whilst I have been working on the engine, and through the whole of an MOT when I could see the examiner have the bonnet up for long periods without problem. ;)
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"proof is in the eating" comes to mind ;D ;D ;D
I know there are various other strengths available, but these are just one of the parts recommended and matched to my 2003 3.2 by Autodoc, which work perfectly well. :)
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Beware, facelift needs 290N struts, pre facelift is 240N. I think the threads are different too, facelift coarser.
JP GROUP 1281202500 Bonnet strut Extension Force: 240N - will struggle to lift the heavier facelift bonnet
Do not understand this.
I bought the struts, checked by Autodoc's system to match with my 2003 3.2 saloon, and they are doing the job perfectly.
Ron's Omega is a facelift like mine and surely as a 2.6 has the same struts. ::) ::) ::)
Aftermarket parts crossreferncing is a roll of the dice. They fit because they use the same mounting points, but as the other post suggests, the facelift bonnet is heavier and requires different struts. That they work when new is all well and good, but in colder weather or if it's a bit breezy you run the risk of the bonnet landing on your head.
2.6/3.2 Rear brake pad fitting kits are another good example of aftermarket sloppiness on the Omega.
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Sorry, once more my posts are duplicating!! :-X :-X
You're becoming a right old 'boardhog' Lizzie. ;)
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Sorry, once more my posts are duplicating!! :-X :-X
You're becoming a right old 'boardhog' Lizzie. ;)
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D Not deliberately, but I have now clicked that it seems when you compose a post you cannot amend it as we used to once sent. We used to have the option of amending,, adding to, or deleting an post shortly after doing it, but now the only option is "Quote"!! ::) ::)
Hence my failure to add to the previous post of mine! :o :o ;D ;D ;)
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As has been mentioned, FL bonnet struts are stronger than PFL/MFL, due to extra weight of the bonnet, and the leverage effect of where that extra weight is.
No issue with pattern struts, but check the specs, just don't rely on some offshore pikey website to get it right, in the same way you would not expect Euroshite to get the parts correct. Or, following in from Mutha's crank sensor thread, even GM dealers in some cases.
Many cross reference lookup software used by aftermarket shops is actually american, and is often more wrong than right. For example, I know for a fact that if I put the oil recommended by Euroshite in my car, I'd be on a low loader in less than 1000 miles, as the yankee variant of mine never got a DPF, unlike all european variants.
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As has been mentioned, FL bonnet struts are stronger than PFL/MFL, due to extra weight of the bonnet, and the leverage effect of where that extra weight is.
No issue with pattern struts, but check the specs, just don't rely on some offshore pikey website to get it right, in the same way you would not expect Euroshite to get the parts correct. Or, following in from Mutha's crank sensor thread, even GM dealers in some cases.
Many cross reference lookup software used by aftermarket shops is actually american, and is often more wrong than right. For example, I know for a fact that if I put the oil recommended by Euroshite in my car, I'd be on a low loader in less than 1000 miles, as the yankee variant of mine never got a DPF, unlike all european variants.
I understand that TB, but when the price of the part is so relatively cheap as these strutts were, and being fitted to a 22 year old car, if they last only 5 years, then they will probably see the car out and me!! ::) ::)
If we are still around then, I will just buy another set for another 5 years. Any longer will just be a bonus ;D ;D ;)
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Sorry, once more my posts are duplicating!! :-X :-X
You're becoming a right old 'boardhog' Lizzie. ;)
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D Not deliberately, but I have now clicked that it seems when you compose a post you cannot amend it as we used to once sent. We used to have the option of amending,, adding to, or deleting an post shortly after doing it, but now the only option is "Quote"!! ::) ::)
Hence my failure to add to the previous post of mine! :o :o ;D ;D ;)
I hadn't noticed that.
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Ah, 'Modify' has never been available on the for sale board. For obvious reasons really.
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Beware, facelift needs 290N struts, pre facelift is 240N. I think the threads are different too, facelift coarser.
JP GROUP 1281202500 Bonnet strut Extension Force: 240N - will struggle to lift the heavier facelift bonnet
Do not understand this.
I bought the struts, checked by Autodoc's system to match with my 2003 3.2 saloon, and they are doing the job perfectly.
Ron's Omega is a facelift like mine and surely as a 2.6 has the same struts. ::) ::) ::)
Not an Omega but finding the correct strut for an R170 SLK is tricky, all seem to have the wrong thread where it bolts to the bonnet and there's no space for an adapter, I don't think.
Instead theres a broom handle living in the car, much simpler. For quick jobs like an oil dip I just rest it on my bonce, won't do any harm...
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As has been mentioned, FL bonnet struts are stronger than PFL/MFL, due to extra weight of the bonnet, and the leverage effect of where that extra weight is.
No issue with pattern struts, but check the specs, just don't rely on some offshore pikey website to get it right, in the same way you would not expect Euroshite to get the parts correct. Or, following in from Mutha's crank sensor thread, even GM dealers in some cases.
Many cross reference lookup software used by aftermarket shops is actually american, and is often more wrong than right. For example, I know for a fact that if I put the oil recommended by Euroshite in my car, I'd be on a low loader in less than 1000 miles, as the yankee variant of mine never got a DPF, unlike all european variants.
I understand that TB, but when the price of the part is so relatively cheap as these strutts were, and being fitted to a 22 year old car, if they last only 5 years, then they will probably see the car out and me!! ::) ::)
If we are still around then, I will just buy another set for another 5 years. Any longer will just be a bonus ;D ;D ;)
You're missing the point. It's not about longevity so much as being upto the job in the first place.
First time a stiff breeze drops the bonnet on your bonce, you'll appreciate the difference >:D
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As has been mentioned, FL bonnet struts are stronger than PFL/MFL, due to extra weight of the bonnet, and the leverage effect of where that extra weight is.
No issue with pattern struts, but check the specs, just don't rely on some offshore pikey website to get it right, in the same way you would not expect Euroshite to get the parts correct. Or, following in from Mutha's crank sensor thread, even GM dealers in some cases.
Many cross reference lookup software used by aftermarket shops is actually american, and is often more wrong than right. For example, I know for a fact that if I put the oil recommended by Euroshite in my car, I'd be on a low loader in less than 1000 miles, as the yankee variant of mine never got a DPF, unlike all european variants.
I understand that TB, but when the price of the part is so relatively cheap as these strutts were, and being fitted to a 22 year old car, if they last only 5 years, then they will probably see the car out and me!! ::) ::)
If we are still around then, I will just buy another set for another 5 years. Any longer will just be a bonus ;D ;D ;)
You're missing the point. It's not about longevity so much as being upto the job in the first place.
First time a stiff breeze drops the bonnet on your bonce, you'll appreciate the difference >:D
Well, for now 3 months now it hasn't been a problem. In fact there is just the right amount of resistance when I push down on the bonnet. ;)
AS said, it got the car through the MOT and other works, so IF it eventually fails I have lost very little. I will just buy a replacement:)
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It's not an MoT item.
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It's not an MoT item.
I reckon it would fail if the bonnet dropped and hit the tester on the back of the head.
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As has been mentioned, FL bonnet struts are stronger than PFL/MFL, due to extra weight of the bonnet, and the leverage effect of where that extra weight is.
No issue with pattern struts, but check the specs, just don't rely on some offshore pikey website to get it right, in the same way you would not expect Euroshite to get the parts correct. Or, following in from Mutha's crank sensor thread, even GM dealers in some cases.
Many cross reference lookup software used by aftermarket shops is actually american, and is often more wrong than right. For example, I know for a fact that if I put the oil recommended by Euroshite in my car, I'd be on a low loader in less than 1000 miles, as the yankee variant of mine never got a DPF, unlike all european variants.
I understand that TB, but when the price of the part is so relatively cheap as these strutts were, and being fitted to a 22 year old car, if they last only 5 years, then they will probably see the car out and me!! ::) ::)
If we are still around then, I will just buy another set for another 5 years. Any longer will just be a bonus ;D ;D ;)
You're missing the point. It's not about longevity so much as being upto the job in the first place.
First time a stiff breeze drops the bonnet on your bonce, you'll appreciate the difference >:D
Well, for now 3 months now it hasn't been a problem. In fact there is just the right amount of resistance when I push down on the bonnet. ;)
AS said, it got the car through the MOT and other works, so IF it eventually fails I have lost very little. I will just buy a replacement:)
And a crash helmet. ;)
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It's not an MoT item.
I reckon it would fail if the bonnet dropped and hit the tester on the back of the head.
Exactly Steve! ::) ::) And it would have done as it was falling on my head!! ;D ;D ;D It is why I HAD to replace the struts ;)