Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Discussion Area => Topic started by: STMO123 on 09 December 2006, 19:06:30
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Just found this on an ebay ad
On 07-Dec-06 at 14:07:39 GMT, seller added the following information:
TO CONTINUE THE SAGA
Having checked with Network Q and Vauxhall technical data service in Luton:- Omegas upto and including 2002 models are listed in the manafacturers service schedule as best practice 4 years or 40,000 miles.Checking against my reg they confirmed that this one is a 2003 model which lists the service schedule best practice for the belt and pre-tensioners as 8 years or 80,000 miles.
Feel free to ring network Q yourself the warranty number is QGU3M 107381. Telephone 0870 7527010.
Any thoughts?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2003-VAUXHALL-OMEGA-MV6-AUTO-BLACK_W0QQitemZ250057798962QQihZ015QQcategoryZ9858QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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Thats got to be wrong
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Thats got to be wrong
Well, I aint gonna ring network Q, but he seems convinced ::)
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Thats got to be wrong
Well, I aint gonna ring network Q, but he seems convinced ::)
Don't he just ;D
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I really would like opinions on this as I can see myself ending up with a newer omega sometime soon, and it could make the dfference between 2002/03
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I really would like opinions on this as I can see myself ending up with a newer omega sometime soon, and it could make the dfference between 2002/03
Whatever Vaux say I don't think I'd wanna risk a top end rebuild for the cost of a cambelt kit and a few hours work.
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I really would like opinions on this as I can see myself ending up with a newer omega sometime soon, and it could make the dfference between 2002/03
Whatever Vaux say I don't think I'd wanna risk a top end rebuild for the cost of a cambelt kit and a few hours work.
You're right, of course. But I just dont like engines being taken to bits, and possibly being put back together wrong, if there's really no need for it.
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Different cambelt and tensioners in 2003 models? I don't think so!
If so you could buy them for pre 2003 facelift models.
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I really would like opinions on this as I can see myself ending up with a newer omega sometime soon, and it could make the dfference between 2002/03
I'd love to get a newer omega aswell hope the wife agrees :-/ ;D
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Different cambelt and tensioners in 2003 models? I don't think so!
If so you could buy them for pre 2003 facelift models.
Yes AA, all very strange :o
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LONG message sent to seller (with subtle plug for us!)
I would not want to see that beauty screwed up! Very very nice example.
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I think the answer would be to find out if the 03 MY engine uses a different cambelt kit. If not its the same tensioner that can fail after 40k on the previous years engine.
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LONG message sent to seller (with subtle plug for us!)
I would not want to see that beauty screwed up! Very very nice example.
Yes yes LB, but your OPINION?
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My opinion...
Absolute twoddle! Last time I checked there was not a different kit for the 03 models!
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My opinion...
Absolute twoddle! Last time I checked there was not a different kit for the 03 models!
Thats good enough for me :y
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'Twas I who instigated the inital query. He is totally unwilling to accept that the 03 year is no different to those previous and very confident that Network Q will cover a rebuild/replacement. Given that it does not apparently conform to manufacturers recomendations, well, not convinced.
As a matter of interest, what would it actually cost at a dealer to replace?
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'Twas I who instigated the inital query. He is totally unwilling to accept that the 03 year is no different to those previous and very confident that Network Q will cover a rebuild/replacement. Given that it does not apparently conform to manufacturers recomendations, well, not convinced.
As a matter of interest, what would it actually cost at a dealer to replace?
Their buying price of the cambelt kit - probably £60 + VAT - and 2h labour, probably £30 direct cost. So I’d say £90-£100.
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'Twas I who instigated the inital query. He is totally unwilling to accept that the 03 year is no different to those previous and very confident that Network Q will cover a rebuild/replacement. Given that it does not apparently conform to manufacturers recomendations, well, not convinced.
As a matter of interest, what would it actually cost at a dealer to replace?
Their buying price of the cambelt kit - probably £60 + VAT - and 2h labour, probably £30 direct cost. So I’d say £90-£100.
Cambelt kit for it is £84.66+ vat TC and probably pretty close to what the dealer pays for it, if not a bit less, but that wasnt the question.
Probably around the £350- £400 region :o
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'Twas I who instigated the inital query. He is totally unwilling to accept that the 03 year is no different to those previous and very confident that Network Q will cover a rebuild/replacement. Given that it does not apparently conform to manufacturers recomendations, well, not convinced.
As a matter of interest, what would it actually cost at a dealer to replace?
Their buying price of the cambelt kit - probably £60 + VAT - and 2h labour, probably £30 direct cost. So I’d say £90-£100.
Cambelt kit for it is £84.66+ vat TC and probably pretty close to what the dealer pays for it, if not a bit less, but that wasnt the question.
Probably around the £350- £400 region :o
Quite right - I misread the original post - as you realised I thought the question was how much would the dealer own cost be to get this done....
Yes, I paid £320 at the local Vx dealer, haggled down from their original quote of £420.
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I have been chatting to him, nice guy. He is now more accepting that Vx may have given him "incorrect" information.
I wouldn't like to argue the rebuild costs with Network Q, prevention is always better than cure. :)
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I have been chatting to him, nice guy. He is now more accepting that Vx may have given him "incorrect" information.
I wouldn't like to argue the rebuild costs with Network Q, prevention is always better than cure. :)
I agree LB....i think its why when i bought my Omega.....42k on it from a vx dealer and then discovered the dealer hadnt changed the cam belt as part of the service before I picked it up....the dealer with no prompting at all agreed to pay for a cambelt kit change at my local vx dealer......i think it may been a case of if i hadnt asked if the cambelt had been changed and it went ping.....networkq would have probably said supplying dealer should have changed it before selling it to you....they can pay for an engine rebuild!
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God, I love that car :'(
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Yep, probably the nicest Omega I have ever seen. :)
However it is out of my price range! :'(
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Yep, probably the nicest Omega I have ever seen. :)
However it is out of my price range! :'(
Well i wouldnt buy it.....its got its check light on....it might be low on washer fluid ;D ;)
Nice looking Omega tho :y
Write to Santa LB......you never know.....he might use your CC and buy it for you 8-)
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Just to throw my 2p in, they did change the tensiners on the later model - engine nos 08300419 and above (IIRC)
So is there not a possiblity that VX realised they had made a cock up (on not only the V6 but also the twin cam engines) and replaced them with a re-designed 'stronger' tensioner??
My early SRi 2ltr Vectra had them changed free of charge as part of a recall so surely it would have been better for Vxl to re-design a better tensioner than save a fortune in re-builds and potential claims??
Like i said just my 2p worth
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Just to throw my 2p in, they did change the tensiners on the later model - engine nos 08300419 and above (IIRC)
So is there not a possiblity that VX realised they had made a cock up (on not only the V6 but also the twin cam engines) and replaced them with a re-designed 'stronger' tensioner??
My early SRi 2ltr Vectra had them changed free of charge as part of a recall so surely it would have been better for Vxl to re-design a better tensioner than save a fortune in re-builds and potential claims??
Like i said just my 2p worth
AA's point was that if this was correct, then there should have been no problem to retrofit the modified tensioners to older engines.... but apparently this is not the case, which casts doubt on the 'modified tensioner' theory....
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AA's point was that if this was correct, then there should have been no problem to retrofit the modified tensioners to older engines.... but apparently this is not the case, which casts doubt on the 'modified tensioner' theory....
But they are modified on the later engine, diff ( so i understand) back plate, possibly improved bearings??
Why change the back plate and fixings 'if' the tensioner hasn't been changed???
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Just to throw my 2p in, they did change the tensiners on the later model - engine nos 08300419 and above (IIRC)
So is there not a possiblity that VX realised they had made a cock up (on not only the V6 but also the twin cam engines) and replaced them with a re-designed 'stronger' tensioner??
My early SRi 2ltr Vectra had them changed free of charge as part of a recall so surely it would have been better for Vxl to re-design a better tensioner than save a fortune in re-builds and potential claims??
Like i said just my 2p worth
AA's point was that if this was correct, then there should have been no problem to retrofit the modified tensioners to older engines.... but apparently this is not the case, which casts doubt on the 'modified tensioner' theory....
Also.....i had my cambelt (supposedly cam belt kit) changed at 42k....then it needed water pump changing (bearing going) at about 50k....then it was back in again a few k later for tensioner change (bearing going on that too) so if you believe the dealer that did a cambelt kit change on mine....the tensioner lasted about 10k before it needed changing....even if you dont it only lasted just over 50k :-/
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I guess the concensus is.....better safe than sorry.
I dont care whether network Q or anybody else agreed to do a rebuild, the car just wouldn't be the same, I wouldn't trust it anymore.
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AA's point was that if this was correct, then there should have been no problem to retrofit the modified tensioners to older engines.... but apparently this is not the case, which casts doubt on the 'modified tensioner' theory....
But they are modified on the later engine, diff ( so i understand) back plate, possibly improved bearings??
Why change the back plate and fixings 'if' the tensioner hasn't been changed???
That 'later' one I think you are referring to was prefacelift - basically 3 ones:
D - early type
EB - replaced D
01 - latest - but still much, much earlier than 2003 cars
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That 'later' one I think you are referring to was prefacelift - basically 3 ones:
D - early type
EB - replaced D
01 - latest - but still much, much earlier than 2003 cars
GM part No:- 09201887
Tensioners are made by SKF with number 90573616 and B322 14:19 and B301 17:09 on them
The aluminium casting has 01 on it and in the corner it has the casting date (like you get on hard hats) with 03 in the centre and if i could work out the dots it would prob tell me which month.
But without having an early one to compare it to i cant tell if the bearings are any 'beefier' than before, but it does come back to the origional question why change it and spend money on a re-design if its the same???
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SET, ENGINE TIMING PARTS X30XE -08300418 9120501 6 36 728 1
SET, ENGINE TIMING PARTS 08300419- 08578511 9201887 56 36 385 1
KIT, TENSIONER, TIMING BELT 08578512- 93172354 56 36 393 1
Just need to find out when those engine numbers correspond to.... ...My MV6 iirc, comes in middle one, and I think the last is the '01' one...
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SET, ENGINE TIMING PARTS X30XE -08300418 9120501 6 36 728 1
SET, ENGINE TIMING PARTS 08300419- 08578511 9201887 56 36 385 1
KIT, TENSIONER, TIMING BELT 08578512- 93172354 56 36 393 1
Just need to find out when those engine numbers correspond to.... ...My MV6 iirc, comes in middle one, and I think the last is the '01' one...
Mine comes in the middle - 8360***, the kit ive got for, as stated above, ref:- 9201887 is cast as "01"
Now its all getting a bit muddy!!!
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SET, ENGINE TIMING PARTS X30XE -08300418 9120501 6 36 728 1
SET, ENGINE TIMING PARTS 08300419- 08578511 9201887 56 36 385 1
KIT, TENSIONER, TIMING BELT 08578512- 93172354 56 36 393 1
Just need to find out when those engine numbers correspond to.... ...My MV6 iirc, comes in middle one, and I think the last is the '01' one...
Mine comes in the middle - 8360***, the kit ive got for, as stated above, ref:- 9201887 is cast as "01"
Now its all getting a bit muddy!!!
AAARRRGGGHHHH!
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The original tensioner was D and quotes as 40k/4y replacement.
When the EB replaced D, the new tensioner was quoted as 80k/8y and was also recommended as retrofit to older engines which would upgrade them to 80k/8y as well (see also Haynes on this).
However Vx soon found out that the EB was failing much sooner than this and the service schedule for it was downgraded to 40k/4y.
I am not aware that it was ever officially upgraded again to 80k/8y.
The reason I know this is that my EB tensioner on my previous 97R Omega failed at 60k/4y, and I actually got Vx to chip in and shoulder some of the repair cost because it was the new type of tensioner and the schedule was quoted as 80k/8y at the time. However, when I booked my current 2001Y Omega for service in 2005, I was advised that the cambelt and tensioner need doing because Vx downgraded the schedule to 40k/4y for ALL models old and new. Considering my previous experience, i was not surprised...
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The original tensioner was D and quotes as 40k/4y replacement.
When the EB replaced D, the new tensioner was quoted as 80k/8y and was also recommended as retrofit to older engines which would upgrade them to 80k/8y as well (see also Haynes on this).
However Vx soon found out that the EB was failing much sooner than this and the service schedule for it was downgraded to 40k/4y.
I am not aware that it was ever officially upgraded again to 80k/8y.
The reason I know this is that my EB tensioner on my previous 97R Omega failed at 60k/4y, and I actually got Vx to chip in and shoulder some of the repair cost because it was the new type of tensioner and the schedule was quoted as 80k/8y at the time. However, when I booked my current 2001Y Omega for service in 2005, I was advised that the cambelt and tensioner need doing because Vx downgraded the schedule to 40k/4y for ALL models old and new. Considering my previous experience, i was not surprised...
At last. Nice one Markjay :y
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The original tensioner was D and quotes as 40k/4y replacement.
When the EB replaced D, the new tensioner was quoted as 80k/8y and was also recommended as retrofit to older engines which would upgrade them to 80k/8y as well (see also Haynes on this).
However Vx soon found out that the EB was failing much sooner than this and the service schedule for it was downgraded to 40k/4y.
I am not aware that it was ever officially upgraded again to 80k/8y.
The reason I know this is that my EB tensioner on my previous 97R Omega failed at 60k/4y, and I actually got Vx to chip in and shoulder some of the repair cost because it was the new type of tensioner and the schedule was quoted as 80k/8y at the time. However, when I booked my current 2001Y Omega for service in 2005, I was advised that the cambelt and tensioner need doing because Vx downgraded the schedule to 40k/4y for ALL models old and new. Considering my previous experience, i was not surprised...
At last. Nice one Markjay :y
....but no pictures....... :(
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The original tensioner was D and quotes as 40k/4y replacement.
When the EB replaced D, the new tensioner was quoted as 80k/8y and was also recommended as retrofit to older engines which would upgrade them to 80k/8y as well (see also Haynes on this).
However Vx soon found out that the EB was failing much sooner than this and the service schedule for it was downgraded to 40k/4y.
I am not aware that it was ever officially upgraded again to 80k/8y.
The reason I know this is that my EB tensioner on my previous 97R Omega failed at 60k/4y, and I actually got Vx to chip in and shoulder some of the repair cost because it was the new type of tensioner and the schedule was quoted as 80k/8y at the time. However, when I booked my current 2001Y Omega for service in 2005, I was advised that the cambelt and tensioner need doing because Vx downgraded the schedule to 40k/4y for ALL models old and new. Considering my previous experience, i was not surprised...
At last. Nice one Markjay :y
....but no pictures....... :(
That was 6 years ago!
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Car went for £6770, £7000 with a cambelt change. Out of my range at the moment, but someone has got a lot of car for that money.
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Car went for £6770, £7000 with a cambelt change. Out of my range at the moment, but someone has got a lot of car for that money.
Jammy beggers whoever bought it ;D :y
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:-X Just thought i would add this reply to your cambelt argument, you know light touch paper and stand well back, Even if you have a cambelt done at the dealership and it snaps before 40k or the later 80k they wont pay for repair as the cambelt is veiwed as a wearable item like brake pads!. The time is only a recommended change interval by Vauxhall its still up to you when you change it. The only time you may have some recourse to the dealer is if you have all the tensioners and idlers changed that run on the belt when the belt is changed and can prove that it was one of them that failed then they may help you under 1 year and i beleive 12,000 miles warranty of failed tensioner/idler but not the full 40k or 80k. okay i've lit the touch paper and now standing back and ducking
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:-X Just thought i would add this reply to your cambelt argument, you know light touch paper and stand well back, Even if you have a cambelt done at the dealership and it snaps before 40k or the later 80k they wont pay for repair as the cambelt is veiwed as a wearable item like brake pads!. The time is only a recommended change interval by Vauxhall its still up to you when you change it. The only time you may have some recourse to the dealer is if you have all the tensioners and idlers changed that run on the belt when the belt is changed and can prove that it was one of them that failed then they may help you under 1 year and i beleive 12,000 miles warranty of failed tensioner/idler but not the full 40k or 80k. okay i've lit the touch paper and now standing back and ducking
I dont think anyone on here is has any misapprehensions about how Vx work. I think the original discussion was more about whether a dealer selling you a car that has exceeded 40000miles changes the cambelt as a matter of course before delivering it to you.
If the dealer accepts that it should be done every 40000 then well and good, but some try to worm out of it by saying the interval is 80000.
I dont think any second hand car would carry more than a 12000/12mth warranty, and this, of course, would include the cambelt, even if it had just been changed.
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:) sorry all I misunderstood, the disscusion was more about if a dealer is trying to rip you off rather than if you should wait 80 or 40 k absolute maximum life of cambelt. but if you buy a car thats not due till 80k and it has 60 k on it and 2 years left surely you could argue the cost of belt and tensioner/idlers with network Q as the interval is only a Vauxhall/all other manufacturers recommended time, if the door swings 1 way for warranty then surley for the sake of a sale they would fit a new belt swinging the warranty door right back at them. Then if they wont throw a cam belt in with the deal then bye bye blackbird. if the car was due at 40 and its got 60 then its done bloody well and if the dealer says its not due till 80 same principle applies. walk away, they'll soon chase you because salemen don't like gas guzzling v6 sitting on there forecourt next to 1.0 petrol sippers which are the current FAD
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Thats depends on the dealer (some realy cant be arsed) and if they are willing to consult Vauxhall....I have known them pay a large proportion of the repair costs following premature failure.
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Its all doom and gloom Captan Mainwaring. If you like the car that much do what i do buy it and stick a new cambelt on it any way job done. On a 7 grand motor whats a few hundred quid and on an old banger well you would wouldn't you. I must admit i never let belts go the distance anyway and if a seller tells me i've just had the belt done ask for an invoice and if no invoice well Knock it off the price if your prepared to haggle. if not well....................
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Also, remember in this case, that the maintaining dealer was Crownhill Vauxhall/Evans Halshaw in MK. That factor alone stopped me considering it further, because their 'service' department is awful.
And good luck to Marks_DTM, as he has now got a car that has had the Crownhill treatment for a good proportion of its life ;)
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Also, remember in this case, that the maintaining dealer was Crownhill Vauxhall/Evans Halshaw in MK. That factor alone stopped me considering it further, because their 'service' department is awful.
And good luck to Marks_DTM, as he has now got a car that has had the Crownhill treatment for a good proportion of its life ;)
Dont think it really matters which dealer you go to.....its very much hit and miss...sometimes one dealer can sort a 'complicated' prob out first time.....then same dealer carnt sort a 'simple' prob :(
I know....ive been there with differernt vx's ::)
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EDIT:
While we may not like certain garages and their alleged practices we cannot go and post comments which are libelous/slanderous on a public forum.
I have removed the offending posts.
Dave
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EDIT:
While we may not like certain garages and their alleged practices we cannot go and post comments which are libelous/slanderous on a public forum.
I have removed the offending posts.
Dave
I agree Dave, but I just have to say Acme Quick Fix Any Old How Garages for Omegas Plc leave a lot to be desired.
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EDIT:
While we may not like certain garages and their alleged practices we cannot go and post comments which are libelous/slanderous on a public forum.
I have removed the offending posts.
Dave
I agree Dave, but I just have to say Acme Quick Fix Any Old How Garages for Omegas Plc leave a lot to be desired.
Yes, like a more catchy name... how about AQFAOHGFOP? ;D
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EDIT:
While we may not like certain garages and their alleged practices we cannot go and post comments which are libelous/slanderous on a public forum.
I have removed the offending posts.
Dave
Sorry :-[
Its just they really annoy me. They screwed me over, but on top of that, I go there for parts, and while waiting have to listening to their service dept talking utter BS to their customers >:( >:(
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Point taken Jamie, but I know what you mean about talking BS.
I looked at a used citroen once, about 2 years ago. The salesman on the forecort was banging on that it would be so good because it had power steering.
I drove it, sat in it, and it blatently did NOT have power steering, it was heavy as anything!! He was insistent that it did have it when I asked, so I lifted the bonnet, and asked him to point out the steering pump or hydraulic pipes or fluid tank. He said that it wouldn't have one, because it was electric!
Electric power steering on a K reg Citroen diesel? I think not!!!!
Prime example of the balls some people will feed you.
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03 v6's have a none ecentric bottom roller and the top casting that holds the tensioner and top roller is a different shape - but use the same rollers - i would still change them at 40k to be on the safe side!
I think the answer would be to find out if the 03 MY engine uses a different cambelt kit. If not its the same tensioner that can fail after 40k on the previous years engine.
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Guys, what is the difference between these timing belt sets? 9201887 and 93172354. Apparently only the first one will fit to my engine (y32se) because of serial number, but what is the actual difference between those two sets?
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WOW .. someone found a duster !!! ... zYx .. a new post might be better than resurrecting one from 2006 !!!
I don't know .. but the numbers may have changed lots in 3 years !!!
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WOW .. someone found a duster !!! ... zYx .. a new post might be better than resurrecting one from 2006 !!!
I don't know .. but the numbers may have changed lots in 3 years !!!
I found this post on google :D didn't even read it from beginning. I saw someone chatting about them numbers so I thought someone will know? Also, the first number is cheaper, well, at least on ebay. There is 20 quid difference.
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;D ;D ;D all is explained - when I saw the OP as STMO ex- member I had quite a fright - order restored :y
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Guys, what is the difference between these timing belt sets? 9201887 and 93172354. Apparently only the first one will fit to my engine (y32se) because of serial number, but what is the actual difference between those two sets?
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1180442005/0 some ino on the belt numbers on reply 3.
I also think the is a diference on partof the alloy tensioner. But cant remember hy.
Marks_DTM or JamesV6CDX are probably the best members to advise.
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Tensioner back plate and lower idler is different
However, the backplate can be re-used and either idler type can be used if you get stuck
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I got caught out by this old thread as well :-[. If any body needs to know what the 3 kits look like for all V6 engines from 2.5 to 3.2 see pics below. The part numbers are SKF reference numbers NOT Vauxhall`s. :y
(http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn228/robbo299/cambelt%20kits/VKMA_05502.jpg)
(http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn228/robbo299/cambelt%20kits/cambeltkit2.jpg)
(http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn228/robbo299/cambelt%20kits/cambeltkit1.jpg)
As you can see the rear tensioners are different in each kit. Hope this helps :y
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That's two of my 'ex' posts been resurrected. Gives me the willies I tell you. :o
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It took me a couple of mins reading it to realise ;D. A lot of members have asked in the past what the difference is in the different kits so i thought i would post the pics up :y
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It took me a couple of mins reading it to realise ;D. A lot of members have asked in the past what the difference is in the different kits so i thought i would post the pics up :y
Thanks for your pics, now I can see the difference :)
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I got caught out by this old thread as well :-[. If any body needs to know what the 3 kits look like for all V6 engines from 2.5 to 3.2 see pics below. The part numbers are SKF reference numbers NOT Vauxhall`s. :y
(http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn228/robbo299/cambelt%20kits/VKMA_05502.jpg)
(http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn228/robbo299/cambelt%20kits/cambeltkit2.jpg)
(http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn228/robbo299/cambelt%20kits/cambeltkit1.jpg)
As you can see the rear tensioners are different in each kit. Hope this helps :y
Not quite right.
The only difference between the lower 2 kits is the back plates for the tensioner (note, the original one can be used). The picture makes the idler look diferent because one is up side down but, they are actualy the same part.
The top kit has a different lower idler (its not concentrenic so not adjustable) but, the earlier adjustable one can be used and again, the tnsioner backng plate can be re-used,
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is 4 years or 40k for all, recommended best practice
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My lower idler is adjustable as was the one I took off
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While on the subject of V6 cam belt kits, I have just done one on a 1999 Omega 2.5 using the SKF kit AS 920 1887. The tensioner backplate is 01.
The belt is a Powerdrive one but the white timing marks were wrong. The crank and pulleys 1 and 2 were OK but the marks for pulleys 3 and 4 were well out.
I checked and double checked that I hadn't done anything stupid but no, it was the markings.
Any one else had this ?
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While on the subject of V6 cam belt kits, I have just done one on a 1999 Omega 2.5 using the SKF kit AS 920 1887. The tensioner backplate is 01.
The belt is a Powerdrive one but the white timing marks were wrong. The crank and pulleys 1 and 2 were OK but the marks for pulleys 3 and 4 were well out.
I checked and double checked that I hadn't done anything stupid but no, it was the markings.
Any one else had this ?
Not sure thats the right backplate, I would have thought that would be an EB. What was the old backplate?
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While on the subject of V6 cam belt kits, I have just done one on a 1999 Omega 2.5 using the SKF kit AS 920 1887. The tensioner backplate is 01.
The belt is a Powerdrive one but the white timing marks were wrong. The crank and pulleys 1 and 2 were OK but the marks for pulleys 3 and 4 were well out.
I checked and double checked that I hadn't done anything stupid but no, it was the markings.
Any one else had this ?
I take it you are using a proper locking kit.
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01 is correct for the later engines setup (with different oil pump).
EB is the earlier type
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Just to confirm a few points:
The plate I removed was an 01 too.
Yes I used the locking kit.
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The new belt was the same length and number of teeth as the old one.
The real giveaway was that the four cam marks on the belt were wrong. The distance between 1 and 2 was OK as was 3 and 4 but the two pairs of markings (that is between 2 and 3) were about 6 teeth too close together so they wouldn't all line up when threaded round the intermediate adjuster. (The adjuster only compensates for about 1 or 2 teeth).
The distance from the crank marking to the cam pulley 1 marking was correct.
Weird eh!!
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never mind
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That scared me .. STMO as an ex-member .. then I saw the date of the posts !!!
Some dusting due on this thread methinks !!!
And doing the job without the correct locking kit is IMHO .. plain stupid :(
Cable ties and bits of wire are NOT sufficient to do the job properly.
comes under the heading "bodged" IMHO .... sorry ... :-/ :-/ :-/ :-/ :-/
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10 out of 10 for improvisation :y :y :y :y
& 10 out of 10 for making me think i was seeing things ;D
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That scared me .. STMO as an ex-member .. then I saw the date of the posts !!!
Some dusting due on this thread methinks !!!
And doing the job without the correct locking kit is IMHO .. plain stupid :(
Cable ties and bits of wire are NOT sufficient to do the job properly.
comes under the heading "bodged" IMHO .... sorry ... :-/ :-/ :-/ :-/ :-/
:-* :-* :-* ;D
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That scared me .. STMO as an ex-member .. then I saw the date of the posts !!!
Some dusting due on this thread methinks !!!
And doing the job without the correct locking kit is IMHO .. plain stupid :(
Cable ties and bits of wire are NOT sufficient to do the job properly.
comes under the heading "bodged" IMHO .... sorry ... :-/ :-/ :-/ :-/ :-/
I was hoping, thought the pedantic idiot had gone and done one, Iam so gutted. ::) :-/
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That scared me .. STMO as an ex-member .. then I saw the date of the posts !!!
Some dusting due on this thread methinks !!!
And doing the job without the correct locking kit is IMHO .. plain stupid :(
Cable ties and bits of wire are NOT sufficient to do the job properly.
comes under the heading "bodged" IMHO .... sorry ... :-/ :-/ :-/ :-/ :-/
Well you know... as far as I'm concerned you don't even have to use the locking tool. I had really good tutorial with me in case something goes wrong. Maybe it was stupid, but it worked and it did the job, properly :P
BTW none of the local garages wanted to do it, so...
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That scared me .. STMO as an ex-member .. then I saw the date of the posts !!!
Some dusting due on this thread methinks !!!
And doing the job without the correct locking kit is IMHO .. plain stupid :(
Cable ties and bits of wire are NOT sufficient to do the job properly.
comes under the heading "bodged" IMHO .... sorry ... :-/ :-/ :-/ :-/ :-/
Well you know... as far as I'm concerned you don't even have to use the locking tool. I had really good tutorial with me in case something goes wrong. Maybe it was stupid, but it worked and it did the job, properly :P
BTW none of the local garages wanted to do it, so...
Nah it didn't, but, its better than having badly worn tensioners etc although I strongly recommend getting the kit and doing it properly when you can
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That scared me .. STMO as an ex-member .. then I saw the date of the posts !!!
Some dusting due on this thread methinks !!!
And doing the job without the correct locking kit is IMHO .. plain stupid :(
Cable ties and bits of wire are NOT sufficient to do the job properly.
comes under the heading "bodged" IMHO .... sorry ... :-/ :-/ :-/ :-/ :-/
I was crying, thought the pedantic idiot had gone and done one, I was so gutted. ::) :-/
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You go me all excited STMO, and I now find you are still here....... :'( :'( :D :D :D
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That scared me .. STMO as an ex-member .. then I saw the date of the posts !!!
Some dusting due on this thread methinks !!!
And doing the job without the correct locking kit is IMHO .. plain stupid :(
Cable ties and bits of wire are NOT sufficient to do the job properly.
comes under the heading "bodged" IMHO .... sorry ... :-/ :-/ :-/ :-/ :-/
Well you know... as far as I'm concerned you don't even have to use the locking tool. I had really good tutorial with me in case something goes wrong. Maybe it was stupid, but it worked and it did the job, properly :P
BTW none of the local garages wanted to do it, so...
Nah it didn't, but, its better than having badly worn tensioners etc although I strongly recommend getting the kit and doing it properly when you can
I don't get it. What is not done properly since you don't even need the locking tool? Everything is in its place, isn't?
I also have my opinion of following the right procedures and I rather to keep it to myself (you don't want to know), but there ARE other ways of doing things. I didn't expect such negative feedback :o
ps: I also asked a question regarding the tool for tensioner.
thanks
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You go me all excited STMO, and I now find you are still here....... :'( :'( :D :D :D
Again? ::)
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You go me all excited STMO, and I now find you are still here....... :'( :'( :D :D :D
Again? ::)
:-* :-*
-
That scared me .. STMO as an ex-member .. then I saw the date of the posts !!!
Some dusting due on this thread methinks !!!
And doing the job without the correct locking kit is IMHO .. plain stupid :(
Cable ties and bits of wire are NOT sufficient to do the job properly.
comes under the heading "bodged" IMHO .... sorry ... :-/ :-/ :-/ :-/ :-/
Well you know... as far as I'm concerned you don't even have to use the locking tool. I had really good tutorial with me in case something goes wrong. Maybe it was stupid, but it worked and it did the job, properly :P
BTW none of the local garages wanted to do it, so...
Nah it didn't, but, its better than having badly worn tensioners etc although I strongly recommend getting the kit and doing it properly when you can
I don't get it. What is not done properly since you don't even need the locking tool? Everything is in its place, isn't?
I also have my opinion of following the right procedures and I rather to keep it to myself (you don't want to know), but there ARE other ways of doing things. I didn't expect such negative feedback :o
ps: I also asked a question regarding the tool for tensioner.
thanks
Simples, the cambelt an tensioenr change on the V6 is more than involved than mosts engines.
The timing marks on the rear of the cambelt cover are pretty inaccurate and hence you have to lock the crank to an accurate TDC and then use a spectacle gauge to set the 3-4 bank accurately to the crank. You then set the the 1-2 bank accurately to the 3-4 bank.
Only then can u set the tension correcty.
Its pretty involved. :y
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That scared me .. STMO as an ex-member .. then I saw the date of the posts !!!
Some dusting due on this thread methinks !!!
And doing the job without the correct locking kit is IMHO .. plain stupid :(
Cable ties and bits of wire are NOT sufficient to do the job properly.
comes under the heading "bodged" IMHO .... sorry ... :-/ :-/ :-/ :-/ :-/
Well you know... as far as I'm concerned you don't even have to use the locking tool. I had really good tutorial with me in case something goes wrong. Maybe it was stupid, but it worked and it did the job, properly :P
BTW none of the local garages wanted to do it, so...
Nah it didn't, but, its better than having badly worn tensioners etc although I strongly recommend getting the kit and doing it properly when you can
I don't get it. What is not done properly since you don't even need the locking tool? Everything is in its place, isn't?
I also have my opinion of following the right procedures and I rather to keep it to myself (you don't want to know), but there ARE other ways of doing things. I didn't expect such negative feedback :o
ps: I also asked a question regarding the tool for tensioner.
thanks
Simples, the cambelt an tensioenr change on the V6 is more than involved than mosts engines.
The timing marks on the rear of the cambelt cover are pretty inaccurate and hence you have to lock the crank to an accurate TDC and then use a spectacle gauge to set the 3-4 bank accurately to the crank. You then set the the 1-2 bank accurately to the 3-4 bank.
Only then can u set the tension correcty.
Its pretty involved. :y
Agree with Mark - having done around 60+ of them ;D - it's definatley more involved than your usual engine...
That said - when you get to grips with it, it's not a bad job - IF you do it properly and take your time ;)
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Agree with Mark - having done around 60+ of them ;D - it's definatley more involved than your usual engine...
That said - when you get to grips with it, it's not a bad job - IF you do it properly and take your time ;)
.. and, leaving aside the requirements for accuracy with this engine, doing it without a locking set on any DOHC engine - let alone a quad cam engine - is such a pain in the backside it's not worth wasting your time on, IME.
Kevin
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Thanks for your suggestions, but like I said, I had a really good tutorial with me, from guy who also did tens if not hundreds of cambelts. His tut didn't involve a locking tool, but drill bits :P
and again, his tut included a plan B in case wheels goes off.
For me it is pointless buying a locking tool as I don't own a garage and I don't do this for money.
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That scared me .. STMO as an ex-member .. then I saw the date of the posts !!!
Some dusting due on this thread methinks !!!
And doing the job without the correct locking kit is IMHO .. plain stupid :(
Cable ties and bits of wire are NOT sufficient to do the job properly.
comes under the heading "bodged" IMHO .... sorry ... :-/ :-/ :-/ :-/ :-/
I thought there was a god :y
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Thanks for your suggestions, but like I said, I had a really good tutorial with me, from guy who also did tens if not hundreds of cambelts. His tut didn't involve a locking tool, but drill bits :P
and again, his tut included a plan B in case wheels goes off.
For me it is pointless buying a locking tool as I don't own a garage and I don't do this for money.
xYz, nobody is trying to give you any bad feedback, just advice. Believe me, you REALLY DO need a locking kit on this engine. I accept that most engines can be done without, but not this one. This engine, unlike your more common inline engines, has infinately adjustable cam timing between each back (though the 2 cams on each bank are preset). To get the tensioner set correctly, the cam timing should be perfect (which is not measurable without the kit).
Bank one is timed to bank two, which is timed to the crank. Due to the infinately variable timing, you cannot time bank 2 to the crank. At best, you can get an approximate guess. Due to the infinately variable timing, you cannot correctly time bank 1 to the approx/guessed timing on bank 2. By the time you get to setting the tensioner, the whole thing is so far out, that it really is setting it blind.
This is not the setup seen on most cars, where the timing is preset at design, by the number of teeth between each component ;)
As Marks DTM Calib said, better than having a shagged up tensioner, but still definately worth trying to do it properly soon :y. I would highly recommend that.
Hopefully somebody nearby would be willing to lend you a kit for a day or 2 :y
As said, nobody is 'getting at you'.
To other members - if your garage/mechanic reckons he can do a GM V6 without a full locking kit, go elsewhere. He is wrong. No ifs or buts. He is wrong. End of.
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I know nobody who would lend me a kit :( and I am far from 500+ posts, unless you want me to spam the forum :P
edit: the key for setting tensioner, how does it look like?
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If you put your location in your profile .. you might be surprised just who can help..... quite a few members have the correct kit .... myself included.
But no-one can offer is they don't know where you are .. :)
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I live near Tunbridge Wells in Kent. :)
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I live near Tunbridge Wells in Kent. :)
No chance then. No one will go near the dreaded Tunbridge Wells. Rougher than Brixton that place.
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I live near Tunbridge Wells in Kent. :)
No chance then. No one will go near the dreaded Tunbridge Wells. Rougher than Brixton that place.
Thanks for your opinion. It is much appreciated... jesus...
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I live near Tunbridge Wells in Kent. :)
No chance then. No one will go near the dreaded Tunbridge Wells. Rougher than Brixton that place.
Thanks for your opinion. It is much appreciated... jesus...
You're very welcome ;D ;D ;D
No need to call me jesus. :y
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I live near Tunbridge Wells in Kent. :)
No chance then. No one will go near the dreaded Tunbridge Wells. Rougher than Brixton that place.
Thanks for your opinion. It is much appreciated... jesus...
You're very welcome ;D ;D ;D
No need to call me jesus. :y
Now I know how you got so many posts here. Perhaps I need to start posting rubbish and get 500+ posts then some1 will lend me the kit eventually.
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I live near Tunbridge Wells in Kent. :)
No chance then. No one will go near the dreaded Tunbridge Wells. Rougher than Brixton that place.
Thanks for your opinion. It is much appreciated... jesus...
You're very welcome ;D ;D ;D
No need to call me jesus. :y
Now I know how you got so many posts here. Perhaps I need to start posting rubbish and get 500+ posts then some1 will lend me the kit eventually.
Tunbridge Wells :-/
;D
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I live near Tunbridge Wells in Kent. :)
No chance then. No one will go near the dreaded Tunbridge Wells. Rougher than Brixton that place.
Thanks for your opinion. It is much appreciated... jesus...
You're very welcome ;D ;D ;D
No need to call me jesus. :y
Now I know how you got so many posts here. Perhaps I need to start posting rubbish and get 500+ posts then some1 will lend me the kit eventually.
:-?
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I live near Tunbridge Wells in Kent. :)
No chance then. No one will go near the dreaded Tunbridge Wells. Rougher than Brixton that place.
Thanks for your opinion. It is much appreciated... jesus...
You're very welcome ;D ;D ;D
No need to call me jesus. :y
Now I know how you got so many posts here. Perhaps I need to start posting rubbish and get 500+ posts then some1 will lend me the kit eventually.
:-?
If I get him going, Cem, he'll have 500 in no time. ;D
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And this is MY three year old thread. ;)
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And this is MY three year old thread. ;)
Wow, that is fantastic. And how old are you?
Ohh, and one more thing. Did you know you can EDIT your post? In other forums you'd get warned. But hey, you are somebody here...
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And this is MY three year old thread. ;)
Wow, that is fantastic. And how old are you?
Ohh, and one more thing. Did you know you can EDIT your post? In other forums you'd get warned. But hey, you are somebody here...
Calm down sweetie :-*
Editing to add or subtract from one's own post is perfectly acceptable on any forum.
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And this is MY three year old thread. ;)
Wow, that is fantastic. And how old are you?
Ohh, and one more thing. Did you know you can EDIT your post? In other forums you'd get warned. But hey, you are somebody here...
Calm down sweetie :-*
Editing to add or subtract from one's own post is perfectly acceptable on any forum.
Read my signature. Twice. I'm out of here until some1 actually wants to help and stop wasting my time.
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Ignore STM0123, he is a cantankerous old git ;D
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And this is MY three year old thread. ;)
Wow, that is fantastic. And how old are you?
Ohh, and one more thing. Did you know you can EDIT your post? In other forums you'd get warned. But hey, you are somebody here...
Calm down sweetie :-*
Editing to add or subtract from one's own post is perfectly acceptable on any forum.
Read my signature. Twice. I'm out of here until some1 actually wants to help and stop wasting my time.
You wanna lighten up mate. No one is gonna help when it sounds more like a demand than a request.
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Ignore STM0123, he is a cantankerous old git ;D
And as for you, flattery will get you nowhere, young man ;D