Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Discussion Area => Topic started by: Yoxubarl on 05 June 2007, 21:16:09
-
Its pretty much a rhetorical question but why are Vauxhall so rubbish?!
On the basis that Vx previously couldn't even send the correct oil filter for my MV6, i figured that i'd get Ford Rapid Fit - who have always done a good job on my cars in the past - to change my gearbox oil with the suck and spit method (hose instead of taking the sump apart - i know its not the real way to do it but i've had the oil for ages and not got a place to change it myself) for £20. My gearbox drops into limp home every so often and from previous advice on here, i know its probably the selector switch but i thought i'd give an oil change a go first.
Rapid Fit ring Vauxhall, who tell them that the gearbox is broken and i'll need a new one. They also say that to change the oil, it has to be at a specific temperature and has to be connected to a Tech2 to to ascertain when this is :o. Erm, okay. Of course, now Rapid Fit won't do anything because if they get it wrong, they'll be liable and won't take on the job without a Tech2 to get the correct oil temp - which is fair enough. I guess i'd better find a place to do it myself then. Pah, another two hours wasted, waiting for someone to tell me that they can't do the job because Vauxhall have prevented them doing it.
Later on in the day, i asked at another branch how much the oil change would be and they told me £133 + parts + vat.
"Oh and it probably won't do any good."
"I know, its probably the selector switch."
"Yes, that's what the service manager said."
Thanks for volounteering that information. Very kind. So.. probably doesn't need a new gearbox then?
Methinks i'll look up what parts are needed to change the gearbox oil and then ring AutoVaux tomorrow..
-Mutter-
-
To change autobox oil, you need the 2 sump gaskets, and a filter. And around 6/7l on Dexron III.
Tech2 not really required, just take it for a spin once you've done it to get oil hot, then recheck level...
-
Waste of time unless you get the selector switch sorted
-
Does the LED light up properly, indicating the selected box function? If so, start with the fluid...
-
The selected light comes on but every so often it flicks between D and N then all the lights come on. It did it twice this morning from a "cold" start but then didn't do it again and i made about seven stops. I just turn the engine off/on and its usually fine for the rest of the day.
I agree about the potential waste of time too, which was why i was happy to try just having the oil sucked out/changed as i already had 7 litres of Dexron 3 sitting in the garage (in bottles, obviously :).
-
The selected light comes on but every so often it flicks between D and N then all the lights come on. It did it twice this morning from a "cold" start but then didn't do it again and i made about seven stops. I just turn the engine off/on and its usually fine for the rest of the day.
I agree about the potential waste of time too, which was why i was happy to try just having the oil sucked out/changed as i already had 7 litres of Dextron 3 sitting in the garage (in bottles, obviously :).
OK, change the switch ;D
Worth doing oil anyway, but drop the sump, as you have to clean or replace filter, as well as clean the metal filings off the magnet...
-
Hehe, okay. Thankyas both for the advice :). I'd best go hunt under the sofa cushions for an extra 150 quid.. this could take some time and a lot of visitors with holes in their pockets ;).
-
Hehe, okay. Thankyas both for the advice :). I'd best go hunt under the sofa cushions for an extra 150 quid.. this could take some time and a lot of visitors with holes in their pockets ;).
Can't you do yourself? 2 gaskets and filter should be around £40 - £50...
-
I meant for the selector switch.. aren't they around the £120 - £150 mark for a new one? Or did i just dream that to scare myself?
I should hopefully be able to do the oil change.. especially as there's the how to :).
-
I meant for the selector switch.. aren't they around the £120 - £150 mark for a new one? Or did i just dream that to scare myself?
I should hopefully be able to do the oil change.. especially as there's the how to :).
ah, yes, flippin expensive... ...some here have managed to repair though...
-
Have a look at this thread. If this one can be repaired, you never know :-/
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1179435454
-
Hmmm, looking at that picture, i wonder if the PCB can be recreated as well as repaired. Depending on what components are on the other side, it might be possible :). I shall have to investigate when i've taken it apart :). Thank you!
-
Hmmm, looking at that picture, i wonder if the PCB can be recreated as well as repaired. Depending on what components are on the other side, it might be possible :). I shall have to investigate when i've taken it apart :). Thank you!
Never seen one apart, but I doubt there are any components on it... :)
-
New PCB that is an excellent idea - there must be a member with the skills and equipment to produce a few, could save an absolute fortune.
-
Hmmm, looking at that picture, i wonder if the PCB can be recreated as well as repaired.
PCBs are not too difficult to etch, and relatively cheap to get done professionally in reasonable numbers. Got to be worth thinking about. Make a photocopy of the board when you have it out.
Cheers,
Kevin
-
The internals look like this...
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b394/Marks_DTM_Calib/IMG_1015.jpg)
I took some pics for a maintenance guide but, never got round to finishing it.
-
The internals look like this...
Mmm. So it's a double sided PCB by the look of it, but certainly very simple...
Is it always the PCB that dies, and how is it attached to the body of the switch? Is swapping out the PCB viable?
Kevin