Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: MartinP on 20 November 2009, 22:09:52
-
Bought new wishbones, steering arms and drop links to fit this weekend.
Now I thought that it wouldn't be to bad as I swapped the suspension legs over from the MV6 to the 2.0 CD a few months ago.
Got most the car in the garage, steering arm off in a few minutes, brake caliper off to access the ball joint retaining nut once that was off, I took the drop link off, then came the wishbone!
The bolt through the cross member needed 2 people the other bolt was ok.
BUT >:( the nut disappeared down the cross member >:( :-[ :-/ :'( >:(
Tried to get it with a 700mm spring grabby thing, couldn't find it so I am now a nut short :( :( :(
So every thing off.
New wisbone, I fitted the cross member bolt and the front bush bolt, just had to get the ball joint pin in, not very easy at all.
Managed to pinch the ball joint gaiter :(
Took the front wishbone bolt back out again to get a bit more movement, swapped the gaiter from the old wishbone to the new one and eventually got the thing in.
Fitted the new drop link and steering arm OK, torqued everything up and cleaned up.
After getting the car back on four wheels I put a rubber grommet over the nutless bolt to stop it from dropping out as I had to put the car out front for the night.
I will go the the local Vaux agent and get 2 nuts in the morning.
I then looked on here for a "how to" to see where I went wrong and to see a warning "be careful not to lose the nut"
No one has done the "how to" yet
so! is there an easier way to get the new wishbone on?
and
losing that nut was a bit of a BUGGER.
Martin
-
do you mean the rear wishbone bolt? that you lost the nut.
also, hope you didnt torque it up with wishbones hanging?
-
Do you need a new rear bolt - free to you if you want it
-
do you mean the rear wishbone bolt? that you lost the nut.
also, hope you didnt torque it up with wishbones hanging?
Yes I did :-[ I'll release it and do both of them on the floor tomorrow.
Thanks
-
Do you need a new rear bolt - free to you if you want it
Thanks Martin but I need it early doors as I am going out tomorrow evening, so I'll get one from the stealers
-
yeah torque the bolts with wheels loaded, on the ground. Or do them up as tight as possible within limits with wheels on the floor. Then re jack to give more ground clearance to swing the torque wrench if need be. 120 nm then angle tighten 30 degrees then 15 degrees rings a bell, but check that though.
I managed to drop a socket down the sub frame. Very very annoying. Took longer to fish it out than change the wishbone. Needed the socket for the other side....daaaaw!
-
Do you need a new rear bolt - free to you if you want it
Thanks Martin but I need it early doors as I am going out tomorrow evening, so I'll get one from the stealers
Special order in bags of three mine were
-
Did it all go OK?
-
Did it all go OK?
Second side went better, still a nut short (have replied to your email).
Had the tracking done 100 yards down the road to get it somewhere near, I have fitted a slightly undersized bolt to until i get a new nut.
Martin
-
Had the tracking done 100 yards down the road to get it somewhere near, I have fitted a slightly undersized bolt to until i get a new nut.
Waste of money having the tracking done if you have an undersize bolt in there.
-
re getting the nut out, jack one side as high as poss and belt the sub frame with a hammer or mallet. The vibration should make the nut roll to the low side. Then fish it out from there, i had a magnet on a stick. Or try one of those net curtain wires with a small rag on the end and push it through from the other side.
Is there any reason why the bolt cant go in from the top first and put the nut on from the bottom? Cant remember if there is clearance to get the bolt in that way? Just a thought.
-
Is there any reason why the bolt cant go in from the top first and put the nut on from the bottom? Cant remember if there is clearance to get the bolt in that way? Just a thought.
Thought it was supposed to? That way if the nut falls off the bolt *should* stay in.
-
I too also thought the bolts went in from the top? (although I accept it is more tricky to get the bolts through the bush that way....
-
I too also thought the bolts went in from the top? (although I accept it is more tricky to get the bolts through the bush that way....
That they do, as a safety thing ;)
-
The tracking was done with the proper bolt in.
The bolts on both sides were ut in from the bottom, it would be extremely difficult to fit the bolts from the top.
I willl try to get the nut out again tomorrow evening.
Martin
-
The tracking was done with the proper bolt in.
Still a waste of time and money Martin, because once you change the wishbones then you have to do the job properly mate (and "tracking" isn't even 20% of the battle).
In fact, changing the wishbones doesn't affect the tracking as such...your biggest concern at a wishbone change should be camber angle.
-
The tracking was done with the proper bolt in.
Still a waste of time and money Martin, because once you change the wishbones then you have to do the job properly mate (and "tracking" isn't even 20% of the battle).
Agreed, did you do the wishbones yourself? I was in lazy mode and let my MOT garage do a track rod end. They totally stuffed it up, so much so they adjusted the caster value :o
Popped it down to WIM and all was well again :y
-
The tracking was done with the proper bolt in.
Still a waste of time and money Martin, because once you change the wishbones then you have to do the job properly mate (and "tracking" isn't even 20% of the battle).
Agreed, did you do the wishbones yourself? I was in lazy mode and let my MOT garage do a track rod end. They totally stuffed it up, so much so they adjusted the caster value :o
Popped it down to WIM and all was well again :y
Bones, shocks, droplinks, the whole shooting gallery.
Went "old school" on the initial setup after we put it together on the drive, took it to WIM to have the job done properly, they put it on the ramp, connected it up, and said (and I quote) "I couldn't get that any closer if I tried"
String, wood, ruler, protractor.......you'll never take the basics away no matter what ;)
-
The tracking was done with the proper bolt in.
Still a waste of time and money Martin, because once you change the wishbones then you have to do the job properly mate (and "tracking" isn't even 20% of the battle).
Agreed, did you do the wishbones yourself? I was in lazy mode and let my MOT garage do a track rod end. They totally stuffed it up, so much so they adjusted the caster value :o
Popped it down to WIM and all was well again :y
Bones, shocks, droplinks, the whole shooting gallery.
Went "old school" on the initial setup after we put it together on the drive, took it to WIM to have the job done properly, they put it on the ramp, connected it up, and said (and I quote) "I couldn't get that any closer if I tried"
String, wood, ruler, protractor.......you'll never take the basics away no matter what ;)
Thats good coming from Tony :y
-
The tracking was done with the proper bolt in.
Still a waste of time and money Martin, because once you change the wishbones then you have to do the job properly mate (and "tracking" isn't even 20% of the battle).
Agreed, did you do the wishbones yourself? I was in lazy mode and let my MOT garage do a track rod end. They totally stuffed it up, so much so they adjusted the caster value :o
Popped it down to WIM and all was well again :y
Also did it myself, wishbones,drop links and steering arms.
I only had the tracking done as I knew one of the steering arms was knackered and the garage had set the tracking with the steeing wheel off centre to get the wheels in line when I changed the shocks.
i wil be going to WIM in the not to distant future. :y
Martin