Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: david036 on 08 September 2010, 11:56:39
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Just on the off chance......
We're having problems removing a flywheel from an A+ mini engine. Have had the puller on since sunday, tried to tighten and tighten to no avail. Even tried knocking the end of the puller...
Has anybody got any ideas how to remove it????
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if you whip the starter off you may have enough access to give the flywheel a clout from behind,I have had them tight in the past and this has worked a few times
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As Henry says, but don't be tempted to use a bit of heat to "aid" removal, and would be better soaking in "plus gas" or similar before attempting further removal. These are a pig to remove, and only dogged stubborness will prevail.
Best of Luck!!
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We've had to remove the engine, so rooms not an issue!!!
Will hitting the fly wheel this way do any damage to it?
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Use a COPPER or ALUMINIUM piece of solid bar (drift) or if you don't have that, a piece of hard wood will do just as well. Remember to hit either side equally to get the best chance, and rotate blows across the area.
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Thanks Guys, will be giving it another try tonight!!!
Here's hoping!!!!!!
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Last time i done that job was when i was on the tools at a Rover Dealership.
We managed to distroy two brand new Snap-On hydro pullers that back the cost a few hundred quid each.
I think at the end of the Rover gave us the knod to fit a new short motor.
Andy
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Last time i done that job was when i was on the tools at a Rover Dealership.
We managed to distroy two brand new Snap-On hydro pullers that back the cost a few hundred quid each.
I think at the end of the Rover gave us the knod to fit a new short motor.
Andy
that will cheer up the op a lot ;D
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New engine's not really an option at the moment!!!!! Need this flywheel off!!!!!Tonight would be good!
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had same problem when done last auto to manual conversion. spend few hours to try undo fly wheel bolts >:(
then I use angle grinder :) and after few minute job was done :)
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And still it hasn't come off!!!!!!
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use a bigger hammer? ;D
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Even with a sledge hammer the flywheel is still on!!!!!
Oxy tourch coming out to play tomorrow!!!!
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I've seen penetrating sprays that claim to have chilling agents to shock the join into submission. If you've already got the PlusGas on the go and the puller under extreme tension, and if heat to the flywheel is not recommended, might it help to fire a can of plumber's freezing spray at the shaft?
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I'll add the freeze spray to the list!!!!! With how stuck it is I'm not holding much hope!!!!!
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There is only one last option.......................
USE A BIGGER HAMMER !!!!!!!!!! ;D ;D ;D
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he's already up to a sledgehammer,how much bigger do they come ::) ;D
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Get the 14lb sledge hammer on it, thats a proper hammer ;D ;D ;D
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Joking aside.......I suppose the other "last alternative" is probally VERY gentle application of heat, despite the warnings in the book about "destroying the temper of the flywheel by adverse application of direct heat" WARMING up the flywheel around the shaft area and then spraying the centre of the shaft with plumbers spray, followed by a good "tap" with a hammer might just do it...............?
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SMack it, rotate 60 deg, smack it, rotate 60 deg....repeat until it comes off.
Warming the centre slightlty (not cherry red!) wont hurt to much
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SMack it, rotate 60 deg, smack it, rotate 60 deg....repeat until it comes off.
Warming the centre slightlty (not cherry red!) wont hurt to much
Thats the way we used to get them off the racing "S" - only really tight one came off while I was inside having a cuppa - had been belting it as above and had a puller locked well on - gave the puller a god thump as I went indoors. Heard the bang as I was drinking my tea!! :y
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Its still on!!! Had a blow torch on last night, but don't think it was hot enough. Have now managed to shear the puller. Lets hope the new puller doesn't go the same way!!!
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this way works every time for me - I must have rebuilt over 150 of these over the years.
tighten up the puller as much as you dare.
get a middle-weight ball-pein or claw hammer and hit the flywheel about 4" out from the centre either forwards or rearwards - the intention is to make it "ring", not for a peak loading.
the theory is that the ringing noise is the outside evidence that the flywheel is vibrating as it stretches (minutely) the accompanying movement breaks the taper seat and releases the flywheel.
Same theory as for ball-joint removal
don't hit the puller as you'll only be tightening it further.