Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Discussion Area => Topic started by: TheBoy on 26 August 2006, 21:15:19
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Time for an update.
Split coolant pipe replaced and oil cooler changed and reassembled with Tunnie's help. Constant coolant flushes are starting to have an effect, as the coolant is now coming out fairly clear, with just odd oil droplets :)
Rear door central locking motor replaced with one from Ronnie McB, though door card not put back on yet as a previous owner must have had a go, and has knackered a self tapped hole.
Rear multiram repaired, and when activated with a Tech2 moves as expected.
Outstanding problems:
Rad fans don't appear to come on. Shorting out pins 1 and 2 on rad sensor brings on 1 fan, shorting 1 and 3 does bugger all.
Temp gauge has packed up (this was working intermittently when we put it back together, but hasn't worked for days)
Its holding back under heavy acceleration. I know its 'only' a 2.5, but it should go better than it is. The split hose would have sprayed water all over DIS.
Any ideas with these 3 issues?
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Wrong fan switch maybe ? Only saying because when i did my oil cooler a couple of weeks ago i had the same problem, no fans, turned out it had the wrong switch and i had never noticed, grabbed one from the scrappy when i was there put it in and they ran constantly so then i took the right course of action and bought a new one and now working perfectly ! Aint they a bugger to flush !!!! Three lots of rad flush and dropped it about 10 times now and its still noy perfectly clear
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I reckon I've dropped the coolant about 20 times over last couple of days - constant fill it, let it idle for about 10 mins, 10 mins to cool a little, then drop coolant and start again.
Trouble is, I've been using tap water, I'm wondering if thats whats knackered the temp gauge and fan switch. Or the oil.
Might go to scrappy tomorrow to get a new rad switch...
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wouldnt have thought that tap water ( flushed straight through...?) would cause that so quick....
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I've run the tap water up to temp, possibly beyond due to no cooling fans >:(
Now using water from water butt which should be softer...
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Yep same here, satisfying job though. Fan switches are different with or without aircon ! cost me 18 quid for a new one
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Thanks for info Timbuk - I'm off to scrappy tomorrow, I'll see if they have one from aircon v6 (wanna get this car running properly now...)
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Any ideas with these 3 issues?
Sorry but with your project name Jaime - better call International Rescue
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Any ideas with these 3 issues?
Sorry but with your project name Jaime - better call International Rescue
;D
But Project TheBoy 1 is too much to type.... ;)
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For flushing try filling with water, then start and run up to temp wirth header cap off. Now, open drain on bottom of rad, go to hospital for severe scalding, get back and repeeat WITHOUT getting burnt this time, then run a flow of water back in the header tank to match what is coming out - leaving the engine running the whole time. Should flushg it through fairly well I would have thought.
If it doesn't work, Laidback is going on his sennie breakdown in deepest Eastern Europe next week, so I can borrow his keys and we could just swap the cars over. He'll never notice.
HTH [smiley=vrolijk_26.gif]
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I'm a tad confused here....not suprising really ::)
I thought there was only one rad fan....there is on a 2.2 and thought V6's the same.
I know on the V6's they have 2 fans for the aircon cooling....where as a 4 pot only has the one.
IIRC I think Mark told me the temp gauge sender is in the engine block.....sure you havent knocked the wire off it?
Perhaps you can get another dis pack for it while your at the scrappy and try swapping it?
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Having had the rad cover off my Omega for recent coolant change, I can confirm that there are thee fans on the V6 (mine is a 2.5). Two fans are for the A/C condensor and are at the front of the rads and one, very large fan, is behind the engine rad for coolant cooling (obviously!)
Now, when I was fiddling about in this area, I noted that there were several senders / switches on the left hand side of the rad (as you are looking at the rad from the front of the car). I am not sure what sender / switch performs which function, but I would suspect that any form of fan switch will be in the rad.
Your temperature gauge may be suffering from a failed sender. Try removing the sender lead and shorting it to ground. If the gauge goes into the red then it is the sender at fault.
HTH somewhat!
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The wire for temp gauge looks connected OK. Strange how this and cooling sensor have stopped working - wondered if it was the oil or the hard tap water that may have killed them? Motronic coolant sensor still seems to be working, and is readable via tech2...
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More likely to be the Oil TBH. I don't think that you had tap water in the system long enough for any lsating effects.
If it were me, I would just bung on a new sender along with the rad fan switch.
However, I realise that any such actions will eat into any profits from the project. >:(
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Ohhh other thing i just thought of ....for the sluggish performance
And I think Ron had this on one of his Omegas....try changing the fuel filter....I think it made a lot of difference to his one
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Right, with Tunnie's help (ie, him being a skinny git means he can get in at DIS pack ;D) we changed the DIS and leads, which cured the sluggishness, and it goes pretty much how a 2.5 should. However, keep thrashing it and EML comes on >:( - Knock sensor circuit 2 (anyone know which side this is?).
Changed the temp sender as well, this (eventually - another story!) cured the temp gauge problem.
Changed the radiator switch, but the one from the scrappy didn't have aircon - someone said they were different? Rad fans still not coming on, causing car to get warm.
I think expansion bottle cap is now knackered, as as soon as system starts to pressurise, it lets water out.
A big, big thanks to Tunnie for his help today again [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
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(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a319/IamTheBoy/Project%20TB1/IMG_1512.jpg)
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I had a problem with knock sensor 1 and Mark told me that was the drivers side, so I guess 2 must be the passenger side.
HTH
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The first fan switch i got from the scrappy was a non aircon one and it made my fans work constantly, Ive still got it, your welcome to it if youy want to try it ,at least you will know if its the switch or not.
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;D ;D
Think asking Mrs TheBoy to take that picture might have been a mistake ;) ;D
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Bank 1 is 1,3,5 (Drivers side) Bank 2 is 2,4,6 (passenger side).
I think your problem may be caused by a small plank of chipboard that the previous owner appears to have left under the bonnet. ;D
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Thanks Fin, we were wondering why it ran like a sack of sh!t ;D
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Knock sensor repaired with advice from Marks_DTM...
Remaining tasks:
Add pad wear sensors (pads are good).
Fix rear door card.
Change brake fluid.
Change switches with blown illumination bulbs.
Remove dent from boot lid.
Valet.
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Glad to hear that you are getting things sorted. Good luck with the rest!
Just a thought re the fans. Has anyone been "fiddling" with the wiring loom? By this I mean wires cut, dodgy crimps (or worse scothlocks >:() in the vacinity? Bit of a long shot.
I also wonder if the ECU knows the fans are rotating. To do this, it would have to be presented a signal to inform it as such. Perhaps this has failed in some way and causing your problem. This is probably an even bigger long shot TBH!
As said above, glad that you are making progres and feel free to ignore the above remarks re the fans! ;)
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Cheers! Any help re fans is appreciated :)
Doesn't look like signs of loom tampering - all looks in good condition.
As far as I can tell by playing with Tech2, ECU doesn't know anything about fans, only a/c compressor.
I'll have to have a poke around the MV6 and see what that rad switch does...
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I was brave enough to use it for work today - a 25m run. No problems to report :)
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I was brave enough to use it for work today - a 25m run. No problems to report :)
Sounds good Jaime, have you got any further piccys :)
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I was brave enough to use it for work today - a 25m run. No problems to report :)
Had a chance to compare the mpg, against the MV6?
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Err, the fuel light is on again, despite a splash and dash the other day (when we chucked a load of coolant all over Tescos forecourt, so a bit crap, but it has been sat idling and taking around the villages a bit since....
Gonna fill her up today, drive home, then off to Oxford and back. See what its like then...
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Err, the fuel light is on again, despite a splash and dash the other day (when we chucked a load of coolant all over Tescos forecourt, so a bit crap, but it has been sat idling and taking around the villages a bit since....
Gonna fill her up today, drive home, then off to Oxford and back. See what its like then...
Be interesting to see the comparison, as the 3.0 is a fair bit quicker...
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No idea of how accurate it is, but my journeys since putting £30 in yesterday are:
Bletchley to Brackley
Brackley to South Oxford
Oxford to Brackley
Brackley to Bletchley
Computer reckons its averaging about 27.5mpg
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No idea of how accurate it is, but my journeys since putting £30 in yesterday are:
Bletchley to Brackley
Brackley to South Oxford
Oxford to Brackley
Brackley to Bletchley
Computer reckons its averaging about 27.5mpg
Thats about as same as the MV6?
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Over the same journeys, I would guess not hugely different....
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Over the same journeys, I would guess not hugely different....
Thats a shame, if i get a V6 it would have to be a 3.0 ;D
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Remember, TB1 has been through a bit of a nightmare. so hopefully will improve with use, and MV6 has been very well looked over....
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Update 2 now at [link=http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1157052346]This Thread[/link]
This thread locked.