Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Paul M on 05 October 2006, 15:37:24
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Hi guys
What's the normal handbrake travel on your Omegas? Mine seems to be way too high, about 6 or 7 clicks to get a decent bite. I spent ages adjusting it at the wheels a few weeks back, getting it to the point where there's resistance spinning the wheel then backing it off a little. Very little, if any, improvement. In comparison, my BMW has a very similar setup with the drums inside the rear discs, and it holds on a flat with 2 clicks, and is rock solid even on steep hills with 4 clicks.
What's weird is that the Omega doesn't seem to have any adjustment at the handbrake lever itself. On the BMW, you back off the handbrake lever nuts, then adjust at the wheels to get both sides properly set, then readjust the handbrake lever bolts to get the right amount of travel. I couldn't find any adjustment on the Omega other than at the handbrake drums themselves. Is this correct? Surely they haven't been real boneheads and put the adustment under the car? Although going by much of the other design on this car..... hmm
BTW The rear discs, pads and shoes were changed less than a year ago so they're still pretty new.
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Mine's the same, trouble is when I use other cars I tend to put the handbrake on way to hard thinking they're the same as mine!
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Its improtant to adjust (any) handbrake in the right order.
You must slacken the hand brake cable off first, this is done by removing the exhaust heatshield to gain access to the handbrake assembly.
Then adjust the rear shoes using the method you mentioned i.e. shoes binding then back off slightly....make sure that all the springs etc are in place including the return spring on the back of the brake shield. Its also important that the mechanisms are working well (see maintenance guide for info).
Then adjust teh hand brake cable to suit.....its important on ANY car that when the hand brake is off that there is slack in the cable (your BMW one may be to tight!).
When set correctly the Omega one should be well on at 6 clicks (its quite a fine ratchet), you can just about get away with 5 clicks but do watch the slack in the cable.
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Hmm seems like a bit of a PITA then, does make me wonder why they couldn't put the adjuster inside the car rather than underneath. On the BMW you just pop off a piece of trim in the centre console and the nuts are easily accessed. I guess it's the same reason GM put the DIS pack round the back of the engine ;)
I guess I'll be living with it for now then. If I ever get round to changing the exhaust I'll probably do it then.
BTW The BMW brakes weren't done by myself, it was a BMW independent specialist who does all the work on my BMW. He knew exactly where to find every nut and adjuster, checked all the cables for free play, oiled the ratchet things etc. All in a very professional mechanic (I've had more complex work done there too) so I'm fully confident he hasn't overtightened the cable. I'd be most happy if my Omega handbrake was half as good! If only some of you more knowledgeable types were closer to me, there could be a nice little earner in sorting all these kind of little niggles on my Omega! :D
Cheers.
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To add to this as I changed the handbrake cable and so had to reset the brakes for a friend last weekend...
It is not a difficult job but to do properly you MUST release the handbrake cable so there is not any tension on the cable.
Once you have the back end on axle stands go round all the nuts that hold the heat shields on and spray copious amounts of penetrating fluid on them. Also use the little straw to spray between the shield and the car body.
Leave to soak for 30 mins.
Come back and re-spray then try and undo them.
If you don't do this you will snap them all off as they really rust on!
The hadbrake cable adjuster sits behind the propshaft so access is rather limited.
If you don't have a 13mm ratchet spanner, get one or you will spend half an hour undoing that nut! >:(
I would also recommend greasing all the exposed areas of the cables.
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To add to this as I changed the handbrake cable and so had to reset the brakes for a friend last weekend...
It is not a difficult job but to do properly you MUST release the handbrake cable so there is not any tension on the cable.
Once you have the back end on axle stands go round all the nuts that hold the heat shields on and spray copious amounts of penetrating fluid on them. Also use the little straw to spray between the shield and the car body.
Leave to soak for 30 mins.
Come back and re-spray then try and undo them.
If you don't do this you will snap them all off as they really rust on!
The hadbrake cable adjuster sits behind the propshaft so access is rather limited.
If you don't have a 13mm ratchet spanner, get one or you will spend half an hour undoing that nut! >:(
I would also recommend greasing all the exposed areas of the cables.
Fancy doing mine LB? ;)
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Exactly how I did it earlier this week. Still sheared one stud off though >:(
Pain in the arse adjusting the drums though.
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If you sheared just one you have done very well! :)
And Jaime... no thanks mate, certainly not one of my favourite jobs! ;)
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And Jaime... no thanks mate, certainly not one of my favourite jobs! ;)
Bugger >:( ;)
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Hi guys
What's the normal handbrake travel on your Omegas? Mine seems to be way too high, about 6 or 7 clicks ...........
Just a couple of clicks on mine - [size=14]N[/size] [size=14]R[/size] then [size=14]P[/size]! ::)
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Hi guys
What's the normal handbrake travel on your Omegas? Mine seems to be way too high, about 6 or 7 clicks ...........
Just a couple of clicks on mine - [size=14]N[/size] [size=14]R[/size] then [size=14]P[/size]! ::)
I used to do that, until the next MOT when the cable had seized and it failed :(
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Hi guys
What's the normal handbrake travel on your Omegas? Mine seems to be way too high, about 6 or 7 clicks ...........
Just a couple of clicks on mine - [size=14]N[/size] [size=14]R[/size] then [size=14]P[/size]! ::)
LMAO.... the american way! That'll be why someone nearly rolled into me every time we had to stop on one of san francisco's many mammoth hills, slush tronic or not it's gonna roll back unless you use the handbrake :D
BTW How do you manage without cupholders in the Omega?
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The cable adjuster is quite easy to get to really, just drop off one heatshield (something like 4 x 10mm nuts) and you can get to the cable adjuster.
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Removing both makes life easier (but increases the chances of shearing one). ;)
Ratchet spanner really makes things easier undoing the adjuster...(relatively speaking!)
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Great guide there Laidback, but you forgot to mention it is best when it is throwing rain down and you can swear a lot doing it. I am surprised you don't want to do Jaimes one! ;D ;D ;D you seemed to enjoy that so much last weekend!
I would add that the car Laidback was working on is one of those cars that you wish you hadn't offered!
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Hi guys
What's the normal handbrake travel on your Omegas? Mine seems to be way too high, about 6 or 7 clicks ...........
Just a couple of clicks on mine - [size=14]N[/size] [size=14]R[/size] then [size=14]P[/size]! ::)
;D ;D
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LMAO.... the american way! That'll be why someone nearly rolled into me every time we had to stop on one of san francisco's many mammoth hills, slush tronic or not it's gonna roll back unless you use the handbrake :D
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:-? :-? Why? Two pedals & two feet!! One for the 'go' pedal & t'other for the 'stop' pedal, my auto's don't roll back on hills. ;)
Another plus point for auto's ::)
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Mine does 4 clicks at three the car is going nowhere.
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Mine does all the clicks by the feel of it!!! :-? And it feels like it only catches the near side fully. :-/
Any handbrake party's coming up? ;D ;D ;D
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LMAO.... the american way! That'll be why someone nearly rolled into me every time we had to stop on one of san francisco's many mammoth hills, slush tronic or not it's gonna roll back unless you use the handbrake :D
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:-? :-? Why? Two pedals & two feet!! One for the 'go' pedal & t'other for the 'stop' pedal, my auto's don't roll back on hills. ;)
Heel-toe on a manual, pre-requisite being that you can drive properly ;). Unfortunately it's not so easy on the Omega due to the crappy layout of the pedal box, by comparison my 840 is way better, although the Subaru I had before was better again.
Last I heard your average american only knows how to use one of each limb at a time when driving, hence why real cars with things like a clutch and a gearstick have them trembling in fear ;D I guess that probably applies to your average geriatric in the UK too :o
Another plus point for auto's ::)
Another? I'm still waiting to hear the first... well I guess you could plumb the transmission fluid into the heater matrix to heat the car when the HBV inevitably fails, might as well do something with all that energy being gobbled up by the torque converter!
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For realy advanced drivers, try this: Right foot on brake, in first gear let clutch up until the rev. counter drops 50 rpm, right foot onto throttle and feed the clutch in. It works on the moderate hills we get round here. Don't try this on a carburettored car, it needs an ICV to prevent stalling.
Eddie.
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For realy advanced drivers, try this: Right foot on brake, in first gear let clutch up until the rev. counter drops 50 rpm, right foot onto throttle and feed the clutch in. It works on the moderate hills we get round here. Don't try this on a carburettored car, it needs an ICV to prevent stalling.
Eddie.
:-? That's how I used to do hill starts before I saw the light of only 2 pedals. As for fuel injection only, it depends how good you are I suppose, but my Manta was from the days before an ICV had been heard of.
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Another plus point for auto's ::)
Another? I'm still waiting to hear the first... well I guess you could plumb the transmission fluid into the heater matrix to heat the car when the HBV inevitably fails, might as well do something with all that energy being gobbled up by the torque converter!
How about not needing a clutch replacement!
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For realy advanced drivers, try this: Right foot on brake, in first gear let clutch up until the rev. counter drops 50 rpm, right foot onto throttle and feed the clutch in. It works on the moderate hills we get round here. Don't try this on a carburettored car, it needs an ICV to prevent stalling.
Eddie.
:-? That's how I used to do hill starts before I saw the light of only 2 pedals. As for fuel injection only, it depends how good you are I suppose, but my Manta was from the days before an ICV had been heard of.
You must have had an 1800 LET one like mine was..... until the Cavalier SRI 130 engine went in :) :) :) That was when I learned the hill start trick.
Eddie.
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You must have had an 1800 LET one like mine was..... until the Cavalier SRI 130 engine went in :) :) :) That was when I learned the hill start trick.
Eddie.
Older than that. I had a 2.0 CIH which replaced a 1.9 CIH Cavalier Coupe, both just basic lumps.
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For realy advanced drivers, try this: Right foot on brake, in first gear let clutch up until the rev. counter drops 50 rpm, right foot onto throttle and feed the clutch in. It works on the moderate hills we get round here. Don't try this on a carburettored car, it needs an ICV to prevent stalling.
Eddie.
I do this a lot too, depends on the car really as some engines don't like it at all. My old audi could sit on quite steep hills using just the clutch, and that was with the ICV disconnected - it sometimes used to jam open causing the engine to race, so I applied a voltage to move it to the point where it idles fine under full load then disconnected it - saved spending £80 at the stealer for a new one :D
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Another plus point for auto's ::)
Another? I'm still waiting to hear the first... well I guess you could plumb the transmission fluid into the heater matrix to heat the car when the HBV inevitably fails, might as well do something with all that energy being gobbled up by the torque converter!
How about not needing a clutch replacement!
Rather a clutch than a gearbox. I've never before required a clutch replacement, although they're a service item they last a very long time unless abused by someone who doesn't know how to drive (probably been driving slushies too long :D). Manual gearboxes generally don't ever break unless abused or poorly designed in the first place - they almost always outlast the engine, which is more than can be said for your average chocolate box ;)
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Another plus point for auto's ::)
Another? I'm still waiting to hear the first... well I guess you could plumb the transmission fluid into the heater matrix to heat the car when the HBV inevitably fails, might as well do something with all that energy being gobbled up by the torque converter!
How about not needing a clutch replacement!
Rather a clutch than a gearbox. I've never before required a clutch replacement, although they're a service item they last a very long time unless abused by someone who doesn't know how to drive (probably been driving slushies too long :D). Manual gearboxes generally don't ever break unless abused or poorly designed in the first place - they almost always outlast the engine, which is more than can be said for your average chocolate box ;)
Well with manuals
Sunbeam - went through two - used to blow them up ended up taking the first blown up one to a reconditioners for new syncros and bearings.
(Scrap yard boxes with around 40% more power than standard)
Carlton - recond box after a year, that had a knackered 3rd when I PXed it, should have got a NEW box for £250 however.
First Omega OK
Second Omega (auto) selector switch went