Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: tunnie on 03 January 2007, 17:23:00
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I just sheered off a bolt :o
Took the cable tray off, and the nut underneath, cambelt cover came loose and i could see inside.
I missed the tinny 6mm torx nut for the cam sensor, and started undoing the large silver nut which i thought was for the cam sensor :o :o :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[
My heart sunk when it sheared off, only then did i spot the tiny nut for the cam sensor :-[ :-[ :-[
So now i have sheared off the main nut in the middle that holds the cambelt cover on :-[ - And the cable tray
Sh!t is all i can say >:(
Piccys:
(http://tunnie.co.uk/omegaforum/misc/DSC06358.JPG)
(http://tunnie.co.uk/omegaforum/misc/DSC06360.JPG)
(http://tunnie.co.uk/omegaforum/misc/DSC06361.JPG)
And also the replace cam sensor is the right type, but just feels 'odd' when i try and slot it in... hard to describe but i find myself pushing it in hard and just does not feel right :-/
Question is, without that cental nut and just the outer screws holding the cam cover, can i get away with it?
Feel like crap now :-[
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OOpppssss :(
Im sure experts will be able to advise better than me Tunnie on that mishap......but dont worry sure there will be an easy fix ;)
As far as cam sensor goes you might need to give it a jiggle a bit as it goes in.....but should slot in easily when it lined up :y
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i am just wondering with the outer nuts holding the cambelt cover, and the tray clipped on but loose at the bottom. Can i get away with this.
I think its going to be very hard to get that sheered part out, I don't even know if thats a propper nut and its suposed to come out! :-[
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Sorry to hear about this mate. What a bummer!
Not sure if this is a bolt that is supposed to retain the timing belt cover or not. From your pics, it looks like it is to be honest. You could drill out the stud, you wil need to accurately centre punch the stud that is in the block and then, using a sharp (new) HSS drill bit, carefully drill it out. From your pics, I would suggest a 3mm bit should do.
Having done this, you can then "wiggle" the threaded part out as the metal will be thin enough to bend..............
However, I stress that you have to be VERY CAREFULL when doing this it is VERY EASY to drill off centre and then you are in more trouble.
I used this to get effect on a water pump bolt that sheared when tightning to the correct torque on my Transit Van.
You could of course get a stud extractor tool. I am sure that others will have more (and probably better) advice than me.
Is there a way that you could cable tie the cable tray at the bottom until you have a more permanent way of fixing it? A bit of a bodge I know, but it would be better than leaving it loose.
Good Luck
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I don't even know if thats a propper nut and its suposed to come out! :-[
I dont know either mate.....but if it was screwed in.....it was probably a left handed thread....coz if youve got another screw in its top end it could undo instead of the screw (if you see what i mean)...hence why you sheared it trying to undo it anticlockwise....that would sense to me.....but i am guessing.... :-/
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Tunnie the part you hold in your hand is listed as a screw NOT a nut ! part No :- 90499201, theres another in there bolting rear cover on to oil pump ! And yes it is broken !
Unless you wanna take off rear cover to gain access to broken screw, and that means taking off cam belt ( no need to remove cam gears ) leave it alone ! Or you may have just enough of the screw projecting to get a stud removal tool / socket on it ! Halfords sell them as a kit !
What puzzles me is parts book is saying / mentioning that there is also 3 other bolts/screws that hold down cam belt back plate to engine ! maybe different model as in y22xe and z22 !!!!
I personally wouldnt really worry about the rear cover unless its flapping about like a bit of wet paper !
I CAN NOT come in to contact with the timing belt, but if its very loose / flapping about it MAY rub on the cam gears/pulleys !
As TD mentioned, you might have to wiggle cam sensor in a bit, but it should go in ! Careful how you tighten up cam sensor BOLT ( not nut ) as its an M6x 12 and wont take crap loads of tightening !
Others on here should also be able to point you in the right direction, but if it was me, i wouldnt over worry about it mate !
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I see what you mean, not a good day :(
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Sorry to hear about this mate. What a bummer!
Not sure if this is a bolt that is supposed to retain the timing belt cover or not. From your pics, it looks like it is to be honest. You could drill out the stud, you wil need to accurately centre punch the stud that is in the block and then, using a sharp (new) HSS drill bit, carefully drill it out. From your pics, I would suggest a 3mm bit should do.
Having done this, you can then "wiggle" the threaded part out as the metal will be thin enough to bend..............
However, I stress that you have to be VERY CAREFULL when doing this it is VERY EASY to drill off centre and then you are in more trouble.
I used this to get effect on a water pump bolt that sheared when tightning to the correct torque on my Transit Van.
You could of course get a stud extractor tool. I am sure that others will have more (and probably better) advice than me.
Is there a way that you could cable tie the cable tray at the bottom until you have a more permanent way of fixing it? A bit of a bodge I know, but it would be better than leaving it loose.
Good Luck
Tunnie if you are brave enough to attack with a drill, BE EXTRA careful, that screw isnt in to the block, its in to the alloy head !
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Sorry to hear about this mate. What a bummer!
Not sure if this is a bolt that is supposed to retain the timing belt cover or not. From your pics, it looks like it is to be honest. You could drill out the stud, you wil need to accurately centre punch the stud that is in the block and then, using a sharp (new) HSS drill bit, carefully drill it out. From your pics, I would suggest a 3mm bit should do.
Having done this, you can then "wiggle" the threaded part out as the metal will be thin enough to bend..............
However, I stress that you have to be VERY CAREFULL when doing this it is VERY EASY to drill off centre and then you are in more trouble.
I used this to get effect on a water pump bolt that sheared when tightning to the correct torque on my Transit Van.
You could of course get a stud extractor tool. I am sure that others will have more (and probably better) advice than me.
Is there a way that you could cable tie the cable tray at the bottom until you have a more permanent way of fixing it? A bit of a bodge I know, but it would be better than leaving it loose.
Good Luck
Tunnie if you are brave enough to attack with a drill, BE EXTRA careful, that screw isnt in to the block, its in to the alloy head !
In that case - DO NOT use this method. From what others have said, it will be OK left alone.
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Sorry to hear about this mate. What a bummer!
Not sure if this is a bolt that is supposed to retain the timing belt cover or not. From your pics, it looks like it is to be honest. You could drill out the stud, you wil need to accurately centre punch the stud that is in the block and then, using a sharp (new) HSS drill bit, carefully drill it out. From your pics, I would suggest a 3mm bit should do.
Having done this, you can then "wiggle" the threaded part out as the metal will be thin enough to bend..............
However, I stress that you have to be VERY CAREFULL when doing this it is VERY EASY to drill off centre and then you are in more trouble.
I used this to get effect on a water pump bolt that sheared when tightning to the correct torque on my Transit Van.
You could of course get a stud extractor tool. I am sure that others will have more (and probably better) advice than me.
Is there a way that you could cable tie the cable tray at the bottom until you have a more permanent way of fixing it? A bit of a bodge I know, but it would be better than leaving it loose.
Good Luck
Tunnie if you are brave enough to attack with a drill, BE EXTRA careful, that screw isnt in to the block, its in to the alloy head !
In that case - DO NOT use this method. From what others have said, it will be OK left alone.
Funny you should say that....i was just thinking that....Tunnie and a drill....NOOOOO ::)
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Hehehehhehehe hahahahahahha may be not then !!
Tunnie ----- NO DRILLS OK ! ::)
I know your situation isnt funny, we have all been there and worn the T shirt at some point !
Have a cup of tea, calm down and things will look better in the morning ! PROMISE YOU :y
In fact you will be laughing about this in a few days time, put it down to experiance mate, at least your having a go and getting your hands dirty, and NO one can knock you for that.
Maybe if Jamie can have a look for you, you will feel 1000000000000000% better.
Chin up mate BUT NO DRILLS ;D
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Tunnie - part number of sheared bolt...
23 SCREW, REAR TIMING BELT COVER TO CYLINDER HEAD 90499201 6 38 959 1
23 SCREW, HEX.HD., REAR TIMING BELT COVER TO OIL PUMP 90499201 6 38 959 1
Hopefully someone can come up with a plan for removal. I'm thinking along lines of wd40 to help release, and cutting slot and unscrew? Not sure how to cut slot... small chisel? Hopefully one of the engrs here can suggest??
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Hehehehhehehe hahahahahahha may be not then !!
Tunnie ----- NO DRILLS OK ! ::)
I know your situation isnt funny, we have all been there and worn the T shirt at some point !
Have a cup of tea, calm down and things will look better in the morning ! PROMISE YOU :y
In fact you will be laughing about this in a few days time, put it down to experiance mate, at least your having a go and getting your hands dirty, and NO one can knock you for that.
Maybe if Jamie can have a look for you, you will feel 1000000000000000% better.
Chin up mate BUT NO DRILLS ;D
Well said..all been there and cocked summat up....altho lager....beer....vodka....also has the same affect :y Whats the saying?? Ah yes....the bloke that never made a mistake never made anything!
TB needs to visit Tunnies and stick a plaster on Tunnies Omega :y
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Have a cup of tea, calm down and things will look better in the morning ! PROMISE YOU :y
Spooky - I just said exactly same thing to Tunnie... ...never a true-er statement :)
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Cheers guys, really appreciate it :y
Feeling a little bit better, TheBoy came around on his way back, HUGE thanks to him gunna start a thread on it.
So to summarise that nut goes though an alloy head to the oil cooler? :o
Ok no drills!! - Thats prob best anyway i tend to snap the drill bits :-[
Ok i think its best i replace the bolt, and not bodge job it back together as is.
Many thanks mar892ree for that part number, i'll be onto Vaux dealers in the morning! :y - I am guessing as TD says its a left hand thread, and that's why i sheared it?
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Ok methods for getting that bugger out:
Hit the front of it with a chisel, to create a groove. Then get a flat head screw driver and twist. See if it comes out...
Can anyone confirm it is a left hand thread? If so I & TB would have been twisting it with some long nosed plyers the wrong way?
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Again many thanks guys for all the comments, if your ever in Brackley or London, pints on me :y
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Cheers guys, really appreciate it :y
Feeling a little bit better, TheBoy came around on his way back, HUGE thanks to him gunna start a thread on it.
Sorry I had to dash, Effone is on his way here to see if tech2 can pick up his misfire....
Though, to be honest, before going in like a bull in a china shop, worth thinking about problem for a few hours, rather than making things worse now....
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if your ever in Brackley or London, pints on me :y
But only if he can get the beers at student bar prices ;D
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Cheers guys, really appreciate it :y
Feeling a little bit better, TheBoy came around on his way back, HUGE thanks to him gunna start a thread on it.
So to summarise that nut goes though an alloy head to the oil cooler? :o
Ok no drills!! - Thats prob best anyway i tend to snap the drill bits :-[
Ok i think its best i replace the bolt, and not bodge job it back together as is.
Many thanks mar892ree for that part number, i'll be onto Vaux dealers in the morning! :y - I am guessing as TD says its a left hand thread, and that's why i sheared it?
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Ok methods for getting that bugger out:
Hit the front of it with a chisel, to create a groove. Then get a flat head screw driver and twist. See if it comes out...
Can anyone confirm it is a left hand thread? If so I & TB would have been twisting it with some long nosed plyers the wrong way?
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Again many thanks guys for all the comments, if your ever in Brackley or London, pints on me :y
Theres no oil cooler mate on a 2.2 ! Just the alloy head ! They have a heat exchanger on the oil filter assy !
I very much doubt if putting a slot in the end of the screw will do any good, but you can try ! The shock of hitting it may even crack the corrosion locking the broken bit in to the head !
I also doubt very much if its a left hand thread ! If you think about it, when bolt/screw is inserted into the broken screw to lock of cable tray, it would undo the broken screw !!
How much is sticking out of the cover/head ! If you have 6mm + sticking out you may be able to get a stud extracting socket onto it !
In reality i think the only real way to emove it , is to drill the bloody thing out, but if you take this course i'd pay to have it done properly !
Hey, whatever happens as long as you dont hit it too hard etc , you wont make it any worse !
Good luck and let us know what happens OK mate
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Cheers guys, really appreciate it :y
Feeling a little bit better, TheBoy came around on his way back, HUGE thanks to him gunna start a thread on it.
Sorry I had to dash, Effone is on his way here to see if tech2 can pick up his misfire....
Though, to be honest, before going in like a bull in a china shop, worth thinking about problem for a few hours, rather than making things worse now....
No problem, i really appreciate you coming around in the first place :y
If it is a left hand screw, maybe some WD40 over night, and try twisting it the other way with the long nosed plyers in the morning :-/
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Tunnie , you could even try that freeze release spray, that Amersil and Loctite make !
Its brilliant stuff, but make sure your engine is COLD !
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How much is sticking out of the cover/head ! If you have 6mm + sticking out you may be able to get a stud extracting socket onto it !
couple of threads max...
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if your ever in Brackley or London, pints on me :y
But only if he can get the beers at student bar prices ;D
might have to fake some I.D's to get into the student bar ;)
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Oh well thats the stud extraction socket idea out of the window !
My recomendation is the freeze release spray, and try slotting the end of the broken screw !
Cant hurt or make things worse now !
Although i do think Tunnie will end up having it drilled out, but hope not !
I imagine its corroded in to the alloy haed, steel fixings in to alloy makes for exceptional Galvanic reaction !
Especially when , hot, cold, hot cold etc and a little moisture too !
Maybe wort noting FOR EVERYONE, that when ever you remove a fixing, coat threads in the slightest smear of copper grese, this has a dramatic reducing effect on Galvanic reaction.
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Tunnie , you could even try that freeze release spray, that Amersil and Loctite make !
Its brilliant stuff, but make sure your engine is COLD !
Does that freeze the bolt so its brittle?
As TB says barely 2mm is free :(
What do you think to hitting it with a chisel to create a groove? - I don't get on well with drills, i all always snapping the bits :-[
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Tunnie , you could even try that freeze release spray, that Amersil and Loctite make !
Its brilliant stuff, but make sure your engine is COLD !
Does that freeze the bolt so its brittle?
As TB says barely 2mm is free :(
What do you think to hitting it with a chisel to create a groove? - I don't get on well with drills, i all always snapping the bits :-[
No not at all, its designed to crack the corrosion holding bolts /studs in !
Make sure if you use this stuff, you buy the proper stuff, not the pipe freeze from DIY stores !
Also worth noting, what ever you do, you are only going to get one shot at doing this !
Once done and if you fail to remove it, you will have to go the drill route !
I personally would never entertain using stud extractors of the kind that are screwed in to a pre dilled hole in centre of broken screw/bolt/stud!
If these break, you are BUGGERED ! And its new head time unless you know antone that has a portable wire erosion machine ?
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Am I correct in thinking, all this bolt does, is hold the cambelt cover tight?
If it was me, and I couldn't get it out, I'd fabricate something, probably with cable ties, but don't listen to that, because I'm an Animal, and you've got a nice car :D
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Tunnie , you could even try that freeze release spray, that Amersil and Loctite make !
Its brilliant stuff, but make sure your engine is COLD !
Does that freeze the bolt so its brittle?
As TB says barely 2mm is free :(
What do you think to hitting it with a chisel to create a groove? - I don't get on well with drills, i all always snapping the bits :-[
No not at all, its designed to crack the corrosion holding bolts /studs in !
Make sure if you use this stuff, you buy the proper stuff, not the pipe freeze from DIY stores !
Also worth noting, what ever you do, you are only going to get one shot at doing this !
Once done and if you fail to remove it, you will have to go the drill route !
I personally would never entertain using stud extractors of the kind that are screwed in to a pre dilled hole in centre of broken screw/bolt/stud!
If these break, you are BUGGERED ! And its new head time unless you know antone that has a portable wire erosion machine ?
Hummm ::)
Not looking forward to getting this little git out >:(
The other option, more of a bodge job is to leave it. There are 2 other screws which hold the cam cover on.
This nut does it hold that metal back plate on? As far as i could see there are 2 other nuts at the top which also hold this plate. What would happen if i did not replace the nut?
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Am I correct in thinking, all this bolt does, is hold the cambelt cover tight?
If it was me, and I couldn't get it out, I'd fabricate something, probably with cable ties, but don't listen to that, because I'm an Animal, and you've got a nice car :D
Thats what i was wondering James.. as said 2 other nuts hold it one.
This one i buggered, holds it in the middle and supports the bottom of the cable tray (not a big worry)
There will be a gap due to the nut not being there, if thats sealed to prevent anything getting it. Is there any possibility of that back plate getting loose and rubbing against the belt?
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I think your correct Tunnie there are two ther fixings holding the top part of the back plate, well not the back plate but the seperate top section that covers the cam gears/pullies !
If the rear cover is stable, i'd forget about the bloody thing !
As far as i am aware, the rear cover CAN NOT come in to contact with the cam belt ! Maybe, if the rear cover moved or flapped forward enough, it may touch and rub the backs of the came belt gears/pullies, but to me thats no problem !!! Does that also make me an animal ;D
Just acess the situation, if backplate is quite secure, leave the dammed thing!
But as Jammie is on hand, talk it through with him, when he can next come over and have a better look
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Well, if it was me, I would have the cam cover and cambelt off to remove the backing plate, that will expose a fair chunk of thread.....apply some Rust-off and wind it out.....
Watch the drilling technique.......you dont want swarf in th cambelt area....
Ow yes.....[size=16]You Muppet![/size]
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Well, if it was me, I would have the cam cover and cambelt off to remove the backing plate, that will expose a fair chunk of thread.....apply some Rust-off and wind it out.....
Yeah, but you're a clever bugger :D
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Well, if it was me, I would have the cam cover and cambelt off to remove the backing plate, that will expose a fair chunk of thread.....apply some Rust-off and wind it out.....
Watch the drilling technique.......you dont want swarf in th cambelt area....
Ow yes.....[size=16]You Muppet![/size]
that 2 threads included depth of backing plate!
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Well, if it was me, I would have the cam cover and cambelt off to remove the backing plate, that will expose a fair chunk of thread.....apply some Rust-off and wind it out.....
Watch the drilling technique.......you dont want swarf in th cambelt area....
Ow yes.....[size=16]You Muppet![/size]
:-[ :-[ :-[
I'd have to take the all the gears and cogs off to get access to that back plate?
Very, Very nervous about doing that! :(
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Well for what its worth this is what i would do, remove back plate,find a nut that just goes over the remains of the stud , then stick weld inside thus welding a nut to the remains of the stud/thread, then walk away go donwtown the boozer bed or whatever, but leave it for at lest hours to cool down, this will do things, it will allow the heat in the weld to penetrate the stud then when the stud has cooled down and shrunk back to its proper size it will crack the corrosion around the stud and it will be easy to undo sith a spanner on the nut!!
follow that? sounds complicated but its easy to do, standard engineeriing practice mate, then you just put a new standard bolt or whatever it is back in
Omegatoy
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Well for what its worth this is what i would do, remove back plate,find a nut that just goes over the remains of the stud , then stick weld inside thus welding a nut to the remains of the stud/thread, then walk away go donwtown the boozer bed or whatever, but leave it for at lest hours to cool down, this will do things, it will allow the heat in the weld to penetrate the stud then when the stud has cooled down and shrunk back to its proper size it will crack the corrosion around the stud and it will be easy to undo sith a spanner on the nut!!
follow that? sounds complicated but its easy to do, standard engineeriing practice mate, then you just put a new standard bolt or whatever it is back in
Omegatoy
I think that may be slightly beyond Tunnies skills. And I doubt he has the tools :(
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Well for what its worth this is what i would do, remove back plate,find a nut that just goes over the remains of the stud , then stick weld inside thus welding a nut to the remains of the stud/thread, then walk away go donwtown the boozer bed or whatever, but leave it for at lest hours to cool down, this will do things, it will allow the heat in the weld to penetrate the stud then when the stud has cooled down and shrunk back to its proper size it will crack the corrosion around the stud and it will be easy to undo sith a spanner on the nut!!
follow that? sounds complicated but its easy to do, standard engineeriing practice mate, then you just put a new standard bolt or whatever it is back in
Omegatoy
I can what you mean, good idea!
However the bolt that came out went from thick to thin as in the photo on the first page.
Another problem is i have never welded anything before and don't have a welder.
I appreciate the suggestion, if i had the tools it would make short work of that nut.
The only method i can think of which i have tools / skills for is to WD40 it tonight, leave it till the morning. Try with the plyers again, if not hit it with a chisel to create a grove and unscrew.
HOWEVER I need the car on Sunday, and i bet that screw i need is order only at 4 days...
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Well for what its worth this is what i would do, remove back plate,find a nut that just goes over the remains of the stud , then stick weld inside thus welding a nut to the remains of the stud/thread, then walk away go donwtown the boozer bed or whatever, but leave it for at lest hours to cool down, this will do things, it will allow the heat in the weld to penetrate the stud then when the stud has cooled down and shrunk back to its proper size it will crack the corrosion around the stud and it will be easy to undo sith a spanner on the nut!!
follow that? sounds complicated but its easy to do, standard engineeriing practice mate, then you just put a new standard bolt or whatever it is back in
Omegatoy
I think that may be slightly beyond Tunnies skills. And I doubt he has the tools :(
Imagine the damage I could do with a welder! :o
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Well, if it was me, I would have the cam cover and cambelt off to remove the backing plate, that will expose a fair chunk of thread.....apply some Rust-off and wind it out.....
Yeah, but you're a clever bugger :D
Totally agree :y
The likes of Tunnie and me that would be beond me i think :-/
Taking the cambelt off scares me :-[
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Well, if it was me, I would have the cam cover and cambelt off to remove the backing plate, that will expose a fair chunk of thread.....apply some Rust-off and wind it out.....
Yeah, but you're a clever bugger :D
Totally agree :y
The likes of Tunnie and me that would be beond me i think :-/
Taking the cambelt off scares me :-[
Same here, just taking the cover off was bad enough. I even made a hash of that! :-[
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Well, if it was me, I would have the cam cover and cambelt off to remove the backing plate, that will expose a fair chunk of thread.....apply some Rust-off and wind it out.....
Yeah, but you're a clever bugger :D
Totally agree :y
The likes of Tunnie and me that would be beond me i think :-/
Taking the cambelt off scares me :-[
Same here, just taking the cover off was bad enough. I even made a hash of that! :-[
The cambelt on the 4 pots is a peice of Piss, I have done many.
Its the broken bolt that would worry me....
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hate hitting anything with a chisel to make a groove! havent you got a dremmel? that would make a nice little groove for the screwdriver to fit in??
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hate hitting anything with a chisel to make a groove! havent you got a dremmel? that would make a nice little groove for the screwdriver to fit in??
The problem there is, that back plate behind the cogs. The snapped nut does not stick out in front of the plate, it it does its barley 1mm i would end up cutting the plate, and that looks like strong stuff.
I will need the car on Sunday, as said before there are 2 other screws which hold the cover on, as well as 2 big clips at the top with the cable tray. These clips cover almost 50% of the top lip, and holds that top section of the cam cover very firmly.
Now i KNOW the correct way and proper way is to get that out, and replace it. But what do you all think about leaving it?
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bolt it all fogether and try it buddy if it dont vibrate then it should be ok!!
O
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But what do you all think about leaving it?
I would like to see it replaced but do not know enough about that engine to know if it needs to be replaced.
I would certainly go to scrappy tomorrow to see if they have the bolt, just in case it comes out easy...
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on my project 2.0, the cam cover seemed very loose without this bolt, BUT.. felt OK with the tray clipped in, I'd have happily driven it.
I think I may have one of those bolts on my Donor car if you need one... free to a good home such as yours Tunnie :D
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on my project 2.0, the cam cover seemed very loose without this bolt, BUT.. felt OK with the tray clipped in, I'd have happily driven it.
I think I may have one of those bolts on my Donor car if you need one... free to a good home such as yours Tunnie :D
Sweet, cheers for that James.
Just out of interest James, did you project 2.0 have a gap were the nut was supposed to be? I.E a whole were crud could get in?
Like you i think the top clips will hold the cover nice and firm, its just that back plate. Tempted to WD40 it today, and try tomorrow for the best. IF it comes out then off to the scrappy to see if that facelift 2.0 wreck is still there...
Also just realised supposed to be meeting old friends on saturday.
If i can get it out tomorrow then great, i'll replace it. However if its going to be a git, i think i will leave it re-assemble, and then take it for a good hard run on Friday. I mean a really hard run, make sure that plate won't become loose, also make sure the new coolant does its job :y
Then friday afternoon pop the cover off again, and check the plate and condition behind there.
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Just be confident that it's all secure before driving it....
I don't want to be posting you my spare 4-pot head because you've bent all your valves :D
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Just be confident that it's all secure before driving it....
I don't want to be posting you my spare 4-pot head because you've bent all your valves :D
Thats what i was worred about, however it all seams solid, tried to move it and its rock soild. Following the plate to the edges it seams to be secure all around.
Trouble is 2.2's are so noisey when cold it will be hard to tell if its loose! So will let it go to normal idle before going off, then a local run to make sure its all ok.
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the cam sensor forks around this bolt - will it be secure enough without it??
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the cam sensor forks around this bolt - will it be secure enough without it??
With the small torx screw up the top holding it, it should be secure.
Like you i'd like to get it out, but i don't do well with drills...
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the cam sensor forks around this bolt - will it be secure enough without it??
With the small torx screw up the top holding it, it should be secure.
Like you i'd like to get it out, but i don't do well with drills...
apart from single securing bolt, what else stops it rotating?
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the cam sensor forks around this bolt - will it be secure enough without it??
With the small torx screw up the top holding it, it should be secure.
Like you i'd like to get it out, but i don't do well with drills...
apart from single securing bolt, what else stops it rotating?
Got a point there ::)
Not sure, think thats the only one. There is nothing else apart from when its loose without the torx screw it does not rotate very far. The slot for sensor restricts it.
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the cam sensor forks around this bolt - will it be secure enough without it??
With the small torx screw up the top holding it, it should be secure.
Like you i'd like to get it out, but i don't do well with drills...
apart from single securing bolt, what else stops it rotating?
just the single bolt and the way its slotted in......was on mine :y
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yeah TB means the fat bolt underneath where the odd V at the bottom of the sensor goes over the bolt...
It shouldn't move with that torx in.
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yeah TB means the fat bolt underneath where the odd V at the bottom of the sensor goes over the bolt...
It shouldn't move with that torx in.
FFS do not overtighten torx to compensate. You really will be Donald Ducked then....
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yeah TB means the fat bolt underneath where the odd V at the bottom of the sensor goes over the bolt...
It shouldn't move with that torx in.
FFS do not overtighten torx to compensate. You really will be Donald Ducked then....
Point taken :y
I'll just do it firmly, however I will have a go at getting that old one out!
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yeah TB means the fat bolt underneath where the odd V at the bottom of the sensor goes over the bolt...
It shouldn't move with that torx in.
FFS do not overtighten torx to compensate. You really will be Donald Ducked then....
Point taken :y
I'll just do it firmly, however I will have a go at getting that old one out!
try and get some penetrating oil in there tonight (wd40). dont get it on belt or tensioners etc...
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yeah TB means the fat bolt underneath where the odd V at the bottom of the sensor goes over the bolt...
It shouldn't move with that torx in.
FFS do not overtighten torx to compensate. You really will be Donald Ducked then....
Point taken :y
I'll just do it firmly, however I will have a go at getting that old one out!
try and get some penetrating oil in there tonight (wd40). dont get it on belt or tensioners etc...
Will do..
I am only going to try it with the plyers, no hitting or anything. I figure if its going to come out, it will with WD40 and those plyers.
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yeah TB means the fat bolt underneath where the odd V at the bottom of the sensor goes over the bolt...
It shouldn't move with that torx in.
FFS do not overtighten torx to compensate. You really will be Donald Ducked then....
Point taken :y
I'll just do it firmly, however I will have a go at getting that old one out!
If your got the new cam sensor in Tunnie....just tighten up the bolt holding it in and give it a slight tighten(tweak) when it goes tight....it aint going nowhere.....so be gently with it :y
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Both of the things I was gonna suggest have been offered up by Omegatoy. Dremmel to cut slot would be far easier than a chisel and would cause less damage when it flies off the bolt/screw thing.
Mole grips would be a better option than pliers if you can lock them on but doesn't sound like there's enough to grab on too.
What about a local garage/engineering firm welding on another bolt that you can use your new tools to extract when cool.
Good luck with leaving it alone and cover the hole to prevent any crap getting in :y
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WD40 is rubbish at penetrating....get some proper plus gas or Ambersil rust flash......
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WD40 is rubbish at penetrating....get some proper plus gas or Ambersil rust flash......
Thanks for info :y
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Tunnie, can you get a drill near it so you can get a hole in it and put an easy out in...........just cover everything well to stop the swarf getting over the belt etc.
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right well i got up early! :o
Gone down to see if the nut would budge and no joy, the long nosed plyers are bending on me!
I had a good look at this black rear plate, it seams to be locked at the top and all around the edge, looking at it I can't see this affecting anything with the engine running. Up by the 2 main cogs that the belt wraps around the plate is secured, behind the cogs with some large torx screws.
Its right in the middle where this nut goes, away from any pulleys or the belt.
Mark, yes i can get to it with a drill. However its such a small nut, I would have to use the smallest drill bits I have. From my experience working with wood, I will snap the drill piece :-[
As far as I can tell the only thing that this missing nut will affect is the cam sensor, as the bottom of it "straddled" the bolt. I was afraid it might have been an earth but TB said its unlikely and would have been a rubbish one.
Does anyone know if that bolt underneath the cam sensor has anything to do its its operation?
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Mark, yes i can get to it with a drill. However its such a small nut, I would have to use the smallest drill bits I have. From my experience working with wood, I will snap the drill piece :-[
I think Mark was thinking about putting small hole in, then using an extraction gadget. Never used one myself though...
Do you reckon you could get molegrips in the stud?
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Mark, yes i can get to it with a drill. However its such a small nut, I would have to use the smallest drill bits I have. From my experience working with wood, I will snap the drill piece :-[
I think Mark was thinking about putting small hole in, then using an extraction gadget. Never used one myself though...
Do you reckon you could get molegrips in the stud?
I was wondering that as i went down, unfortunately no. Only those thin long nosed ones will grab it, the normal "fat" plyers just slip off :-[
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Mark, yes i can get to it with a drill. However its such a small nut, I would have to use the smallest drill bits I have. From my experience working with wood, I will snap the drill piece :-[
I think Mark was thinking about putting small hole in, then using an extraction gadget. Never used one myself though...
Do you reckon you could get molegrips in the stud?
I was wondering that as i went down, unfortunately no. Only those thin long nosed ones will grab it, the normal "fat" plyers just slip off :-[
Is that because you cannot grab enough of stud...
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No point in going at the stud until you get some penetrating on it!
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Not sure if this is a good suggestion but would it be possible to get a small cole chisel in there, if not can you live with it only it would just mean removing the cable tray and cover as one piece.
On my dads black omega the centre bolt sheered on that but the cable tray and cover the bolt is corroded so it cannot seperate. This however is not a problem as the cable tray clips over the top edge of the rocker cover and the bottom piece is held in place by two other bolts so its all held tight in place.
Not Ideal but since he's been using the car its not been a problem.
Hope this helps
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No point in going at the stud until you get some penetrating on it!
Little nervous about using that stuff, takes it down to -40!! :o
I am scared if i use that stuff i will freeze that back plate too. I fear its way past my skills to get that out....
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On my dads black omega the centre bolt sheered on that but the cable tray and cover the bolt is corroded so it cannot seperate. This however is not a problem as the cable tray clips over the top edge of the rocker cover and the bottom piece is held in place by two other bolts so its all held tight in place.
Cheers nixoro, so on your dads megga the same center bolt is missing too? Is it s 2.0 or 2.2 out of interest? - Seams to be the same problem I have, as you mentioned the top clips of the tray should hold it all together. Is there much movement in the cam cover with that centra bolt missing?? James mentioned that as long as the top clips where on it seamed fine.
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It has a delivery tube.....wont do any harm to the back plate even if you get some on it.
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On my dads black omega the centre bolt sheered on that but the cable tray and cover the bolt is corroded so it cannot seperate. This however is not a problem as the cable tray clips over the top edge of the rocker cover and the bottom piece is held in place by two other bolts so its all held tight in place.
Cheers nixoro, so on your dads megga the same center bolt is missing too? Is it s 2.0 or 2.2 out of interest? - Seams to be the same problem I have, as you mentioned the top clips of the tray should hold it all together. Is there much movement in the cam cover with that centra bolt missing?? James mentioned that as long as the top clips where on it seamed fine.
Tunnie its another 2.0 like mine same sort of design I guess, the cover itself once clipped over the rocker cover and once the remaining bolts are fitted is pretty snug no movement when refitted. Had to remove the cover over the Holiday period as I did the rocker cover gasket on mine and my dads car. refitted without any major issues. You've just got to make sure the bottom edge of the cover goes in behind the crank pulley first each time.
Hope this makes sense
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On my dads black omega the centre bolt sheered on that but the cable tray and cover the bolt is corroded so it cannot seperate. This however is not a problem as the cable tray clips over the top edge of the rocker cover and the bottom piece is held in place by two other bolts so its all held tight in place.
Cheers nixoro, so on your dads megga the same center bolt is missing too? Is it s 2.0 or 2.2 out of interest? - Seams to be the same problem I have, as you mentioned the top clips of the tray should hold it all together. Is there much movement in the cam cover with that centra bolt missing?? James mentioned that as long as the top clips where on it seamed fine.
Tunnie its another 2.0 like mine same sort of design I guess, the cover itself once clipped over the rocker cover and once the remaining bolts are fitted is pretty snug no movement when refitted. Had to remove the cover over the Holiday period as I did the rocker cover gasket on mine and my dads car. refitted without any major issues. You've just got to make sure the bottom edge of the cover goes in behind the crank pulley first each time.
Hope this makes sense
Yep it does, it was a tad awkward getting it up clipped from there when Jaime came over.
I am thinking of leaving it, if its sheered off on your Dads 2.0 then i think i can get away with it. I would like to get it out and would be the best way, however i think some experts and expert tools are needed.
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As said Ideally I would like to eventually remove the sheered bolt, its a pain as it was only found initially when I came to do the cambelt before xmas.
Still main thing is the cover is snug.
Good Luck with the refit if you haven't done so already. :y