Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Discussion Area => Topic started by: RonaldMcBurger on 11 September 2006, 20:28:57
-
OK, so I wasn't gouing to, but I just had to.
So, project 14. An R-reg 2.5v6 Elite saloon in champagne colour with cream leather, walnut, climate, bose etc etc.
Bodywork very nice condition indeed, virually unblemished. Mechanically, a few issues - hence why I got it.
So, known issues are: Overheating after a run, but not during. central locking not working. Aircon not cold, heater not working. Thats it.
After a brief check yesterday, Mark concluded that the car has had an oil cooler change recently. The clues being soft radiator hoses and a brand new header tank. Plus the radiator full of sludge! So today started the strip down to fix that and took a shortcut by obtaining a known good radiator to exchange for now, later cleaning the dirty one and having a spare.
A highly dangerous fault was discovered also yesterday with the presence of LOTS of petrol around the back o the plenum. Now, I know the rocker gasksets have been done (badly) very recently. Easiest with the inlet manifold removed. Now, I always undo the fuel flexi pipe couplings on the EGR side of the 1-3-5 bank. But others undo the internal fuel rail connectors instead, the problem being that people forget to do them up again, which I suspect is what is wrong here. Coupled with the excess heat problem of this car at present, this could have been fatal. I will be following this up with the alleged mechanic that did that job!
Today basically stripped down ready to change rads tomorrow. Also replaced drivers door central locking solenoid, which fixed the central locking issue.
Tomorrow I will be stripping the top end down to replace the badly fitted rocker gaskets to eliminate the oil leak which is still present. Then radiator change and flush through, follwoed by cambelt, water pump, full service and job done.
Here are some piccies:
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e219/ronaldmcburger/th_IMG_1833.jpg) (http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e219/ronaldmcburger/IMG_1833.jpg)CLICK to Enlarge
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e219/ronaldmcburger/th_IMG_1832.jpg) (http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e219/ronaldmcburger/IMG_1832.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e219/ronaldmcburger/th_IMG_1831.jpg) (http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e219/ronaldmcburger/IMG_1831.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e219/ronaldmcburger/th_IMG_1830.jpg) (http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e219/ronaldmcburger/IMG_1830.jpg)
OK, project 13....
This is the 2000 w-reg wreck.
Managed to reduce the noise of the engine a fair bit. The knocking sound is a cam follwer which is being starved of oil. Multiple problems on this car already solved included DIS pack, multirams, vacuum hoses damaged, breathers totally chocked with rubbish and lack of oil!
Did the breathers again today because the crankase is pressurising still and is only relieved with removing the oil filler cap.
So, tomorrow it is strip the front off again, including the cambelt to access teh oil pressure relief valve which Mark pointed me to. Appoartently could be stuck and needs a simple clean. Be great if it is that simple.
If so, I will restore this car too. It is mega-miles and looks like it has done every one of its 229,000 miles so far. BUT, it is basically ok to start from. Has panel damage, scratches, absolute tip inside, nothing much works yet and it is a shed. However, oddly enough the aircon is perfect!
I'll make a beauty out of this heap yet. It won't be a real beuty, but will be worth a lot more than I paid that's for sure.
Remember this arrived on a truck as a non-runner for parts. Engine sounded awful when I did get it going. banging, farting and throwing oil out as fast as you could put it in.
Other fault to deal with turned out NOT to be a blowing manifold as I suspected, but the air injection pump one way valve had failed (like on my CDX) and was thus letting raw exhaust straight through thus making a rioght racket.
So, replacemnt air injection system on standby for installing on the rebuild of the front end.
There you have it.
-
Is that all? ;D
-
Is that all? ;D
Bet a brakelight bulb is blown as well ;D
Well done Ron :)
-
Nice lookin motor 3.0 exhausts ???
-
and project 15........c`mon Ronnie your slowing matey ;)
Good work fella :)
-
No brake lights bulbs blown, but one headlight washer is missing >:(
Yep, they are 3.0 looking exhausts. nice huh?
Few bulbs blown on the climate panel, but they are easy when you have a spare climate panel! :)
I'll probably have to get oild out of the heater matrix now as well, so off with the HBV toady too and a flush through for the matrix.
-
No brake lights bulbs blown, but one headlight washer is missing >:(
Yep, they are 3.0 looking exhausts. nice huh?
Few bulbs blown on the climate panel, but they are easy when you have a spare climate panel! :)
I'll probably have to get oild out of the heater matrix now as well, so off with the HBV toady too and a flush through for the matrix.
One headlight washer missing I think I can help you there.
If the one you have is a near side one I will have it making your Omega look uniform ;D ;D
-
Well done Ronnie I knew you couldn't give up the projects with out a fight. :)
-
Right, todays progress....
Project 14- The Elite
Stripped out remainder of radiator stuff - pig to get out with those connectors on the passenger side so akward to reach (I have the scars to prove!). Anyway, with the old radiator out I continued the strip down taking off the plenum. This proved harder than usual because the throttle cable absolutely will not come off. Don't worry, I know how I've done enough of them, this one will not come off full stop. So, break the throttle bodies off once the plenum is lifted a bit and its a good'un.
Looking deeper to find this mystery petrol leak reveals no cap on the fuel rail pressure release valve. Took the inlet manifold off and found the two unions were in fact fairly tight already. No obvious signs of any fuel esacpe otherwise, so I have to assume something was pressing down on the fuel valve. Simple solution, put a new cap on.
HBV looks fine and no sign of leakage. No visible signs of oil leaks at the back either. Cleaned the breathers which had NOT been done properly at all. And did the throttle boddies which were manky! Not been cleaned and thus were still blocked which is why the rockers were still leaking. Also replaced the servo pipe which was broken. Put that all back together after cleaning the plenum black box and replacing the two missing seals for that box.
Put new radiator in after observing a lot of green dye from the middle of the condensor, which would explain why the air-con is not working.
Radiator went in beautifully and I connected everything back up. Put the bagpies etc back in and filled it with a can of Jizer first then the rest was water. Started it up and ran up to temp, then switched off. Scalded my hand when the radiator drain was turned 1/4 turn. I don't kniow why, I had already loosened it off when it was off the car, all I did was turn it a bit. That hurts still.
Anyway, drained off then refilled with clean water anbd ran it up to temp again. Holding level, so pressurised system with the cap and then left running upto full temp. 98 and the fan cut in. Perfect. Down came the temp to 95.
Drained all off again and this time fileld with 50/50 antifreeze mix. Ran up to full temp again before road testing. Road test proved not great news. Car runs at about 98 most the time, but goes upto 100 everytime you stop.
I will flush it all thorugh a few more times I think, but I am steering towards this condesor now. If it is blocked badly it will restrict some air flow.
Anyway, enough for today. Drives nice although I am pinching the real plug leads off the 2000 reg one. These ones are proper numpty ones.
Oh, almost forgot. Someone had stripped the front right plenum bolt at some time. It had been helicoiled, so I will be changing the inlet manifold when do the leads. I don't like stripped threads at all. Easy enough job. Don't people use torque wrenches anymore??? Well i know me and Mark do, but what about you 'orrible lot? Come on, own up????
So. Thats the Elite for today anyway.
Jobs still to do:
Cambelt, water pump, oil, filters etc. Also plug leads and DIS pack swap. Climate bulb lights, Condensor change and aircon regas. Job finished. The car might be too nice to sell. I cannot really justify keeping it though, but it is ver, very nice to drive.
We'll see.
Right project 13. The W-reg
Stripped down to cambelt removed from scratch in 8 minutes flat. My record by a long way - and that did include fitting the locking kit!. Couldn't do a lot else on this because I need a T55 bit and haven't got one in my vast collection of tools. :( So, I'll poach one of teh good man Mark and hopefully do that job at the weekend now rather than tomorrow as I put my back out again thsi afternoon.
So. There you have todays updates.
-
Looking good Ronnie
If you want i can have a t55 posted today maybe there tomorrow - have a few (long and short) as thats what secures Rover seats in ;D ;D
and at least i use a torque wrench still - in fact bought a new one last week ;)
-
I have a spare 2.5 inlet manifold which you can have.......
-
I take it helicoil stuff is no good only I need to do something with a couple of duff manifold stud threads and it was recommended to me.
-
not a fan of it personally.....
-
not a fan of it personally.....
Although If I find my car needs head work I maybe changing mine. :)
-
still need to face up to it as it will affec your resale price.......surely not though on an omega!!!
-
Markiec - that'll be great mate! I'll PM you my address just now.....
MarksDTM.... Yep, that would be great. I'll swap it for a spare 3.0 one I have here if you like?
Other guys. helicoil is good. It can get you out of toruble. BUT, it is a sort of permemnat fix. When you have something like a plenum which comes off for every service, you want the threads all OK really. hence the change.
Anyone got any other ideas on this overheating? Or just keep flushing away?
-
Its not going to hurt it to keep flushing it Ronnie, especially if Mark reckons its had a recent oil cooler change, you know how much of a pig it is to shift all that crud!!
-
Would using more degreaser help in any way?
-
As an off the wall suggestion, could it be an inefficient water pump, working adequately at high rpm but less so at lower revs? Tis just a guess but may point you in another direction.
-
job done ronnie re t55 - and i`d flush 2/3 times first - easiest option first....
-
Markiec - that'll be great mate! I'll PM you my address just now.....
MarksDTM.... Yep, that would be great. I'll swap it for a spare 3.0 one I have here if you like?
Other guys. helicoil is good. It can get you out of toruble. BUT, it is a sort of permemnat fix. When you have something like a plenum which comes off for every service, you want the threads all OK really. hence the change.
Anyone got any other ideas on this overheating? Or just keep flushing away?
Hi Mr McB, i would suggest that you pressure wash from the engine side towards outside the radiator fins which should clear the crap off the fins from the condenser and rad. If necessary remove all the fans and do it properly as all the dead bugs dust and crap will restrict airflow. Also the fins get insulated with dirt and therefore you loose the heat transfer capability of the rad. What is the state of the STat?
-
Stat? Is it supposed to have one? ;D
Stat is Ok as far as I know. I am in agreement with the water pump theory. It will be replaced by default anyway when I do the cambelt at the weekend. In fact, that's 2 cambelts this weeken as I am helping Laidback do one as also.
As the condensor is knackered it can come off completely until I find a useable one. That will ensure airflow!!!! This rad is almost new, so I have no doubt the rad is good and free. I did pressure wash one once. It took most of the fins off!
Problem with the thermostat is getting at it! I mean, the housing is no problem, but the poxy pipe that goes off to the hose is a nightmare as the two halves always weld themselves together.
Anyway, a few flsuhes first.
Theory 2: No names mentioned (Laidback66) Ooooops, that slipeed out...... Anyway, someone suggested the air con compressor may be partially siezed thus holding back the aux belt, which would explain the heavyish power steering and lack of cooling???? Mmmmm. If he's right I agree entirely. If he's wrong, what a NUMPTY!
There. A win-win situation.
-
just a shot in the dark now but how accurate is the temp gauge?
-
Theory 2: No names mentioned (Laidback66) Ooooops, that slipeed out...... Anyway, someone suggested the air con compressor may be partially siezed thus holding back the aux belt, which would explain the heavyish power steering and lack of cooling???? Mmmmm. If he's right I agree entirely. If he's wrong, what a NUMPTY!
There. A win-win situation.
I guess the recommended is to use an aux belt from a v6 without ac although you probably already know this for testing. :)
-
Mr Des, good idea and I did wonder myself, but when it gets up to 100+ you can 'smell' it is getting very hot. So I think the guage is correct. It just moves too much, normally they sit solid, this one is up and down from 95 to 100 like a dogs back leg.
Nixoro, You can also use a standard 2.0 belt as that is the same length. I will be popping the belt off anyway and seeing if I can turn the compressor or water pumps by hand.
-
Nixoro, You can also use a standard 2.0 belt as that is the same length. I will be popping the belt off anyway and seeing if I can turn the compressor or water pumps by hand.
Didn't know that RonaldMcBurger, learn something new everyday it seems :)
-
this one is up and down from 95 to 100 like a dogs back leg.
Certainly sounds like not all the gunge out yet...
-
Theory 2: No names mentioned (Laidback66) Ooooops, that slippd out...... Anyway, someone suggested the air con compressor may be partially siezed thus holding back the aux belt, which would explain the heavyish power steering and lack of cooling????
Lol.....you would hear that....the screaching of the aux belt would be quite a give away!