Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: JamesV6CDX on 10 April 2007, 11:51:15
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The battery terminals/leads on the Elite are still getting red hot, when the engine is running. I've tried a new battery, no difference.
With JUST the ignition on, and no engine running, they don't get warm.
However as soon as engine is started, they get hot VERY quickly.
Alternator is charging at 13.6v
We popped off the Aux belt, and with the engine running but the alternator not turning, the terminals didn't get hot.
Alternator FUBAR'd?
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13.6 sound s a little low. It could be that the rectifryer ;D is donald, and allowing the battery to pull so much current that it is dragging the voltage down
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Measure the voltage at alternator. I suspect you have Tunnie's problem - poor connection between the cable and the actual battery connector.
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Measure the voltage at alternator. I suspect you have Tunnie's problem - poor connection between the cable and the actual battery connector.
Yup, as per James's other thread thats what i think too.... Kevin Wood can also comment as he mentioned my alternator cable was hot, although the terminal itself was warm.
James have you got any tools to professionally re-crimp thick wires? - I mean really thick wires!
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Ok, tonight has shown 13.6 volts if you put the meter on the battery terminals...
However if you stick the positive prove into the cable a little way into the loom.. it's 14v..
The connection where the positive cable (from alternator) goes into the battery round terminal looks very suspect..
Tomorrow it will be renewed, I'll post progress...
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Ok, tonight has shown 13.6 volts if you put the meter on the battery terminals...
However if you stick the positive prove into the cable a little way into the loom.. it's 14v..
The connection where the positive cable (from alternator) goes into the battery round terminal looks very suspect..
Tomorrow it will be renewed, I'll post progress...
Same issue as Tunnie ;)
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Ok, tonight has shown 13.6 volts if you put the meter on the battery terminals...
However if you stick the positive prove into the cable a little way into the loom.. it's 14v..
The connection where the positive cable (from alternator) goes into the battery round terminal looks very suspect..
Tomorrow it will be renewed, I'll post progress...
Same issue as Tunnie ;)
We have a lot in common... ;D
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Ok, tonight has shown 13.6 volts if you put the meter on the battery terminals...
However if you stick the positive prove into the cable a little way into the loom.. it's 14v..
The connection where the positive cable (from alternator) goes into the battery round terminal looks very suspect..
Tomorrow it will be renewed, I'll post progress...
Same issue as Tunnie ;)
We have a lot in common... ;D
How are you going to re-crimp it? The terminal connection is sealed, and the wire is very thick so needs to get very hot (as TB mentioned)
Be very interested to see how you do this... my 2.2 has the same problem!
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He will have spare cable.
0.4v drop
That could be quite a heat source!
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Bad connection, or faulty + cable.
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As posted in your other thread...
You have a high resistance joint at the positive connection to the battery. Disconnect the battery (both terminals) and measure the rsistance from the Alternator to the end of the positive cable. The resistance should be negligible. While measuring the resistance wiggle the cable and battery clamp and see if the resistance varies. It shouldnt but sounds like it probably will. This should help identify exact location of problem and determine whether it is the cable or the connector.
HTH
Dave
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This sounds exactly like Tunnie's problem. The battery positive terminal has a thick wire crimped onto it which leads across the front of the engine to the alternator and starter motor. The rest of the car is fed from a cable bolted to the terminal which leads to the positive distribution box that lays on top of the battery.
All the current to feed the car electrical system and charge to the battery must therefore pass through the crimped connection. In Tunnie's case we only had about 13v across the battery with the engine running, regardless of revs. In the minute or two we spent measuring it, the battery terminal got too hot to touch. The insulation on the wire had also discoloured.
I'm not sure if you will be able to see the change in resistance with a multimeter. We are talking fractions of an ohm here but it's worth a try. The other test is to look at the battery voltage with engine running, and a little bit of electrical load (headlights, climate, etc), and again wiggle the cable. The fact that it gets hot is indication enough that there's a bad connection, though.
This wire also carries the current to the starter motor so, not only does it prevent the battery charging fully, it also reduces the current available to the starter motor.
As to a remedy I wouldn't bother trying to re-crimp it. You need a serious crimping tool to make connections that big and they'll probably fail in the same way. In addition, the end of the wire will have been cooked and will have a higher resistance anyway, as a consequence.
I would suggest either replacing the whole section of cable with one in good condition or cutting the wire 6" or so back from the connector, joining a new section of cable using a brass ferrule and solder, insulating the joint well with heat shrink sleeving and tape, and then fitting a new battery terminal with screw terminals.
You'll find all the required parts here http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk or in a motor factors.
Cheers,
Kevin
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You need a lot of heat to solder the cable!
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Can't you get new terminal ends from Halfrauds that clamp on with set screws? That cable in the terminal end is toast by now, soldering won't be as good as cutting it off and getting to good cable.
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Can't you get new terminal ends from Halfrauds that clamp on with set screws?
Yes. This is what I would recommend.
That cable in the terminal end is toast by now, soldering won't be as good as cutting it off and getting to good cable.
Yes. I recommended removing 6 inches and making a join with solder to a new section. Alternatively it may be possible to re-route the cable, free up some length, and make do with cutting the damaged bit off the end. Tunnie's cable tooked like it was routed less than directly. Then again, if it's loomed up with other cables, you might have to undo that and route this cable separately.
The neatest solution by far would be to replace the entire section of cable, either with new or from a breaker.
Kevin
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If 6 inches of cable is bad then it's time to start thinking about replacing the whole cable. I wouldn't want to get into splicing, especially the positive.
You can just split the insulator to find where the cable looks healthy.
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To me, Tunnie's looked like an inch or 2 would be enough...
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To me, Tunnie's looked like an inch or 2 would be enough...
Yep.... hoping the local guy can fix, be interested to see what James does....
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Using a DVM with a sharp probe, measure the volt frop from the battery terminal to 6 inches down the cable......
I suspect its a bad crimp.......
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Using a DVM with a sharp probe, measure the volt frop from the battery terminal to 6 inches down the cable......
I suspect its a bad crimp.......
In Tunnie's case, the drop was between the (lead?) battery clamp and the cable, ie the actual crimped bit.
I would recommend Tunnie changes the clamp, get one that doesn't need crimping. Most motor factors should have.
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Using a DVM with a sharp probe, measure the volt frop from the battery terminal to 6 inches down the cable......
I suspect its a bad crimp.......
In Tunnie's case, the drop was between the (lead?) battery clamp and the cable, ie the actual crimped bit.
I would recommend Tunnie changes the clamp, get one that doesn't need crimping. Most motor factors should have.
Any chance you can pick one up next time your in one? I won't be going near one for a while ...
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Using a DVM with a sharp probe, measure the volt frop from the battery terminal to 6 inches down the cable......
I suspect its a bad crimp.......
In Tunnie's case, the drop was between the (lead?) battery clamp and the cable, ie the actual crimped bit.
I would recommend Tunnie changes the clamp, get one that doesn't need crimping. Most motor factors should have.
Any chance you can pick one up next time your in one? I won't be going near one for a while ...
I will give you a bell next time I go near one...
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Using a DVM with a sharp probe, measure the volt frop from the battery terminal to 6 inches down the cable......
I suspect its a bad crimp.......
In Tunnie's case, the drop was between the (lead?) battery clamp and the cable, ie the actual crimped bit.
I would recommend Tunnie changes the clamp, get one that doesn't need crimping. Most motor factors should have.
Any chance you can pick one up next time your in one? I won't be going near one for a while ...
I will give you a bell next time I go near one...
Cheers :y
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If you put a new clamp onto the existing end of cable, give the exposed copper a rub with some emery cloth to get rid of as much of the oxidisation as you can.
Kevin
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James, I think I may have a present from LB66 for you - I nice bit of cable to replace yours, should you require it.
Also, Tunnie, I have a leccy window mechanism for you, again, a present from our leader....
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Have you sorted this now? I've got the same problem with the positive lead but my alternator is fried as well. I went out to the car yesterday to check on a bolt size and the battery was dead. I got my charger back this morning but it kept tripping so I disconnected the battery and charged it. Connected back up and started the car. Only getting 12.8 volts at the battery and it was falling, I also noticed some smoke and suspected my cam cover gaskets so turned the engine off and saw the smoke was coming from the alternator. Then I noticed the battery light glowing on the dash so I've disconnected the battery.
I want to sort out the cable as well while I'm at this so I'm interested in what you did. I need to chop off the discoloured cable and change the battery clamp but there are those two extra bolts holding cables on as well and the only clamps I can find have fastening points for only one heavy duty cable.
Also does anyone know the area of the cable?
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James, I think I may have a present from LB66 for you - I nice bit of cable to replace yours, should you require it.
Also, Tunnie, I have a leccy window mechanism for you, again, a present from our leader....
Ooo , thats very kind, thanks very much Dave :) - Although, I DO have a spare good one on the CDX V6, so please feel free to use it for someone else, EG Tunnie, if he needs it :)
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Have you sorted this now? I've got the same problem with the positive lead but my alternator is fried as well. I went out to the car yesterday to check on a bolt size and the battery was dead. I got my charger back this morning but it kept tripping so I disconnected the battery and charged it. Connected back up and started the car. Only getting 12.8 volts at the battery and it was falling, I also noticed some smoke and suspected my cam cover gaskets so turned the engine off and saw the smoke was coming from the alternator. Then I noticed the battery light glowing on the dash so I've disconnected the battery.
I want to sort out the cable as well while I'm at this so I'm interested in what you did. I need to chop off the discoloured cable and change the battery clamp but there are those two extra bolts holding cables on as well and the only clamps I can find have fastening points for only one heavy duty cable.
Also does anyone know the area of the cable?
On the V6... it runs from battery (obviously) through cable tray at the front, and down to the alternator and starter
Alternator would need to come off, and it's do-able
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Well the alternator does have to come off, I need to replace it since it was smoking badly. I've just been to fetch the replacement one.
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James, I think I may have a present from LB66 for you - I nice bit of cable to replace yours, should you require it.
Also, Tunnie, I have a leccy window mechanism for you, again, a present from our leader....
Thanks :y
I think my leccy problems might have to wait :'( - Just got no time, going to have to disconnect the battery and garage it. Taking the Senator back to Uni this weekend. Can't be arsin around with the car for the next 3 weeks!
After that its Scotland so might be a while before i get the window & battery problem fixed :'(