Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Elite Pete on 30 April 2007, 23:17:22
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Can anyone tell me if the clutch is the same for a 2.5 and 3.0
Thanks in advance :y
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TC - Clutch kits:
Y26SE, X30XE - 93185903
X25XE - 93185904
3.2 - R1520066 (exchange unit)
Strange....
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EPC - Clutch plates (not kits):
Y26SE, X25XE - 90542982
Y32SE, X30XE - 90543245
So I guess clutch plate only yes, but the whole kit no..... :o
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There is a whole world of confusion here.
The EPC says all the clutches are different.
The original parts are LUK.
LUK list common parts for most Omegas. Check the buypartsby website for part numbers.
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The clutch kit im looking at is on Fleabay, its genuine Vauxhall part No 93185904 and is for a 2.5 but was wondering if it would fit the 3.0 :-/
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No....you need a 3.0 clutch kit....
Note, if you look on buypartsby....the kit listed has a new concentric slave cylinder....these never fail so it should be about 100 quid cheaper than the price shown...
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3.0 ones are beefier, personally I'd use a 3.0 clutch in a 2.5 if there are no installation issues (maybe the flywheel size is different though). But obviously not the other way around.
When I got mine replaced it was just the standard kit -- pressure plate, clutch plate and release bearing. I went for genuine VX as they're reputed to be damn good (my original was on 165k) and they're not too expensive either.
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Cheers Fellas :y
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Why do you want to change the clutch....
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Why do you want to change the clutch....
The clutch pedal is very high and im just looking for a cheap replacement for when it starts slipping.
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The clutch pedal position on the Omega does not change with wear as its a fluid based slave setup....
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The clutch pedal position on the Omega does not change with wear as its a fluid based slave setup....
It did on mine. Maybe there was another reason like air in the fluid, but the pedal was very high before the change, afterwards it was much lower -- enough that I almost stalled pulling away the first few times.
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I thought the clutch was about to give up because the pedal is very high.
So do I need to bleed it or can it be adjusted?
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No adjustment.
Bleeding only indicated for a long pedal or clutch drag.
High pedal points to friction linings which have become hard and non-compressible, there is a wave spring between the two friction faces and some give in the friction material which helps to give some progression or 'feel' on clutch take-up. If the friction linings have been cooked they become very hard and rigid, clutch action becomes very sharp (on or off, no in-between) and pedal is high because no 'travel' is required to overcome the spring and material compression. If the linings are worn to the rivets then pedal is also high (again, no compression or 'give' in the plate) and action is sharp as above but when you floor it in 3rd or 4th on a hill you get clutch slip.
Added: The clutch cover also wears at the pivot points which changes the leverage quite dramatically, this tends to increase the required pedal pressure which is why a new clutch often seems much lighter.
HTH
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Thanks Pete
The pedal is about an inch higher than the brake pedal and bites at the end of its travel. The action of the clutch pedal is light and the clutch doesn't grab or slip so I will bleed it this week :y
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If its biting at the top of the travel then I dont think bleeding will help but its easy to do so eliminate it.
I found the most reliable way of bleeding the clutch was to modify an old easi-bleed so it pushes fluid in through the bleed nipple, just lower the header level first using a syringe etc.
The reason for this is the long vertical section of pipe and flexi-pipe from clutch slave to top of bulkhead, if you get air in there its a bugger to shift.
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I don't have much experience with manual Omegas, but I had an Alfa Romeo with hydraulic clutch for 5 years, and yes the pedal is high and feels odd compared to a mechanical cable-driven clutch... you know it's on its way out when it starts slipping, but pedal issues are usually due to the hydraulics.