Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: star_whites on 24 May 2007, 21:58:31
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Well heres another update on my problems.
Ive purchased a new cam sensor and fitted however due to the wiring being different y brother managed to get me another from a car in the breakers yard that was running fine (rear end shunt).
Ive fitted this one along with the throttle valve sensor from the same car, however the car is still running in limp mode and keeping the eml on all the time. Ive done another paperclip test and the same faults are still showing up
0120 & 0340
Does the eml have to be cleared once the new parts are fitted or should the light go out automatically??
Ive also purchased a new crank sensor however I have no idea where this is fitted and the haynes manual is as useful as a chocolate fireguard, any help appreciated on where this is fitted!
Im begining to think this problem goes deeper than I hoped it was and its time to get an electrician in.
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Well heres another update on my problems.
Ive purchased a new cam sensor and fitted however due to the wiring being different y brother managed to get me another from a car in the breakers yard that was running fine (rear end shunt).
Ive fitted this one along with the throttle valve sensor from the same car, however the car is still running in limp mode and keeping the eml on all the time. Ive done another paperclip test and the same faults are still showing up
0120 & 0340
Does the eml have to be cleared once the new parts are fitted or should the light go out automatically??
Ive also purchased a new crank sensor however I have no idea where this is fitted and the haynes manual is as useful as a chocolate fireguard, any help appreciated on where this is fitted!
Im begining to think this problem goes deeper than I hoped it was and its time to get an electrician in.
To clear the codes simply turn on and off the ignition 30 times with a 5 second 'on' gap in-between (time allowed for self check to finish). :y :y
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check out this website for codes and procedures http://www.topbuzz.co.uk/info/fault_codes/fault_codes.htm ;) :y
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hi mate,as the 2 codes are stored it means they are present and a malfuntion as occured,when you fit the required new parts these have to be cleared to reset the ecu which is done with ignition on and tech 2 or scanner machine,then the eml light goes out and should then run ok,i think at the moment if the the crank sensor not come up would leave it as bit fidly to do ok,cheers curly
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Well I went back out and tried the reset function by turning the ignition on with a five second on gap but dont appear to have worked :'(
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really sounds like you need the vauxhall tech 2 or snap on scanner to run through the system mate,also make sure the battery is in good state of charge you must have 12.5volts or more for the system to clear,curly
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Well I went back out and tried the reset function by turning the ignition on with a five second on gap but dont appear to have worked :'(
It has to start and run for a while between each attempt. Is the EML still coming on when running sometimes? If so, fault still there.
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I waited 5 seconds between each turn on / off, and yes the eml is on permanent. Yet the car starts first time and sounds great until you take it above 1500rpm and then it splutters and brings up autobox on the screen.
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like curly said sounds like you need tech2, sometimes the old 30 times on/off with 5 sec wait on turn on before off doesn't work,mine did clear after engine run for a while on tick over ,hope you get it sorted,sensors can be a pain in the backside :yhave you looked at web site explains everthing for you i found it most useful and helpful,http://www.topbuzz.co.uk/info/fault_codes/fault_codes.htm
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If the Engine Management Light is still ON without the paperclip the fault is still present - i.e. it's not been fixed.
The fault code, read with the paperclip, will persist for a while then just "fade" out when the car's been running fine (with no fault) for a number of starts.
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It looks like the fault isn't with the sensor, unless the replacement is faulty.
Don't take this the wrong way, but is it possible you changed the wrong sensor? Especially as the new sensor is different. Perhaps a knock sensor?
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Nope I def replaced the right sensor, and changed it again last night so I know its right.
Just been told by a mechanic that he thinks the timing is out by 2 teeth and thats why its causing it. I cant see that myself, cause the timing would not effect the sensors or would it??
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How can he tell that "the timing is out by two teeth"?
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Nope I def replaced the right sensor, and changed it again last night so I know its right.
Just been told by a mechanic that he thinks the timing is out by 2 teeth and thats why its causing it. I cant see that myself, cause the timing would not effect the sensors or would it??
i would seriously think of getting it pluged in to diagnostics and resetting bofore blaming the timming
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Already have, hes coming tom morning and only charging £40 so hopefully will get to the bottom of it!
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Already have, hes coming tom morning and only charging £40 so hopefully will get to the bottom of it!
hopefully he will sort it no probs :y
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Well the Auto Tune guy has been and gone and heres the update!!!!
He checked the diagnostics and found that the throttle position sensor voltage was high/low (P0120) and Camshaft Sensor (P0340) were showing. He reset the system and checked again and only the Camshaft Sensor was listed, guess that was due to the fact that I had replaced the Throttle Sensor. On further inspection he found that there was no signal coming to the camshaft sensor so there is an electrical fault to it and his recomendations are get it to an electrician.
So still stuck with a oppsed motor and another £40 down the drain.
Im guessing the mechanic must have kinked some cabling and broke a wire somewhere.
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The cam sensor does not receive a signal. It generates one. Did he check for a signal FROM the sensor while the engine is running? This can be done using an oscilloscope and will verify if the sensor is OK or not. If the sensor is OK it can only be a wiring issue between the sensor plug and the ECU.
Kevin
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BTW this is how the cam sensor should wire up to the ECU according to the diagram in Haynes:
Cam Sensor Pin ECU Pin
1 13
2 31
3 32
My next step would be to verify these connections using a multimeter on Ohms, I think.
Kevin
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He just tested the cables to the camsensor by using a tester that had a light on it that would turn green if ok. He never connected it to a machine.
Ive since been playing and traced the cables all the way back to the fuse box/ecu however Im not entirely sure how to test these. I have a multimeter although I dont have the instructions, but am more than capable if I had instructions.
Also to note that the autobox warning has now gone off the screen and sport mode will now engage and the revs sound much better.
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Ok another update. My Brother (whos a mechanic) who I dont get on with so good (due to his new partner lol) has just been round to borrow a set of ramps and while here had a quick look at my car.
He listened to it, switched it off, removed the timing cover and straight away said the timings out. Reconds its firing No2 cylinder first and is out by 2 teeth like the other mechanic said. He showed me the cogs and explained where they should be and there miles off. Theres no wonder the sensor is playing up as it cant read it properly lol
Hes too busy to sort it but hes going to ring a bloke he works with to see if he will come sort it, so no electrician (@ £30 per hour) needed just yet. Fingers crossed!
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I guess this could be an explanation. If the cam sensor signal was not arriving at the ECU within the correct window due to the cam timing, it could raise a fault code I imagine.
Kevin
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Sounds like you better have the cambelt replaced.....as there must be a reason why it all of a sudden becomes 2 teeth out. Must need a new belt and tensioner IMHO.