Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Moya on 15 July 2007, 16:24:18
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Hi folks,
I have Opel Omega 3.2 2002. One month ago, I my car started to suffer a starting problem. When I turn on the switch trying to start the engine, nothing happens (no sound at all) and the car don't start. I changed the battery with a new one (ACDelco) but the same problem is happening. Then, last week I changed the starter itself and the problem is solved partially.
So, now when I try to start the engine, the car starts from the first time except when I leave it for long time (7 hours). If I leave the car or if the car is not started in 7 hours and more and I try to start it, there is sound from the starter but the engine doesn't fire. The car starts after 2-5 tries.
Suggestions please. Somebody told me that this problem is may be cause by the Fuel Pump others told me that it may be caused by sparks.
Thanks
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Sorry, does the car turn over, just not fire?
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Sounds exactly what i had about 3 years ago on my Carlton GSi 3000 , and it turned out to be the fuel pump!! :y
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Sounds exactly what i had about 3 years ago on my Carlton GSi 3000 , and it turned out to be the fuel pump!! :y
Fuel pumps normally reliable on Omegas, unlike crank sensors ;)
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Thanks all for your replies.
Yes, exactlly. The car start over but it doesn't fire.
Btw, what is the crank sensor? and how much does the fuel pump cost and what is price of crank sensor? Is the starting problem known about Omega?
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Does the car turn over at the normal speed? Or is it slow after the 7 hrs... Thinking battery drain!!!!!
DC
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I meant to say that after 7 hours of leaving it turned off.
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It sounds very much like a crank sensor.......about £40-50 (E70-80ish)
Easy enough to change and fit.
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Hi All,
Something new is happening with me regarding the Starting problem. The problem still occurs after leaving the car (not working) for 7-8 hours. Now, when I start it after the 8 hours, it wouldn't start from first try unless I hit the accelerator twice before turning on the car.
Does this give any indication? Because some friends told me that in this case it would be the fuel pump?
Cheers,
Moya
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OK, 2 things to try:
Switch ign on, wait 20s then start. If this works, the fuel rail depressurising - leak, faulty Fuel Pressure Regulator etc
Switch on and crank with throttle to floor for 5s, then off and start normally with no throttle. If this works, leaky injector.
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Thanks alot for your reply.
I tried to wait for 20s then I started the car but it didn't work and same thing is hapening. But, after that the car started without doing anything (without cranking with throttle).
I went after that to ACDelco Workshop and they told me that this may probably be cause by spraks plugs. They reommended to change the spark plugs and the fuel filter.
Another important thing, when I bought my car 4 months ago, the engine computer test gave an ignition problem and at that time they told me that you have to change your car spark plugs.
Does this give a clue?
Thanks again
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Unlikely to be spark plugs or fuel pump,omegas have a common fault with the crank sensor,does the eml light come on when cranking the engine on the starter???
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Are you anywhere near me? (May be worth updating your profile with car and location :y)
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Thanks a lot man but my location is too far from you are. I am in Riyadh - Saudi Arabia (Middle East).
Regarding my probolem. Yesterday, I changed the spark plugs and the fuel filter but today morning same thing is happening. My car didn't start from first try. :(
I may try to change the crank sensor this week.
Again thanks all for your helpful replies and any new suggestions are welcomed.
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Thanks a lot man but my location is too far from you are. I am in Riyadh - Saudi Arabia (Middle East).
Regarding my probolem. Yesterday, I changed the spark plugs and the fuel filter but today morning same thing is happening. My car didn't start from first try. :(
I may try to change the crank sensor this week.
Again thanks all for your helpful replies and any new suggestions are welcomed.
Yes, a bit far.... ....mind you, I bet you have nice sunny weather, not the floods we are having here in the UK :'(
Worth changing the crank sensor, but could also be the cpp (Coil Per Plug) units breaking down, this would likely show up on a code reader as misfires...
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Thanks Mr. TheBoy for your helpful replies.
Yes, we have a sunny and very hot weather but anyway its better than floods :)
My mechanic checked the car with code reader and he didn't receive any fault message.
So, does crank sensor or fuel pumps problems appear on code readers? And where is the crank sensor exactly located?
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Thanks Mr. TheBoy for your helpful replies.
Yes, we have a sunny and very hot weather but anyway its better than floods :)
My mechanic checked the car with code reader and he didn't receive any fault message.
So, does crank sensor or fuel pumps problems appear on code readers? And where is the crank sensor exactly located?
The crank sensor normally brings up a code 19 if its failing. Whatever, he should have got a 31 if engine wasn't running (no rpm).
Did you try my suggestion of cranking for 5s with pedal flat to floor, then try starting normally (The crank with throttle fully depressed will stop injectors firing, so if you have a leaky injection flooding engine, it should clear the excess fuel)?
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Today morning, I tried to crank the peddale for 5s but the same thing happened after that.
:(
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Hi all, apologies that this is my first post and it's one requesting help!
I seem to have a similar problem.
pcked up a 1996 P plate 2.5V6 CDX Auto Saloon yesterday and it drove fine, turned it off a few times through the day and drove about 50 miles in total. Anyway, about tea time I pulled up at home and turned the car off. I then tried to restart it as I changed my mind and decided to nip to the shop, and it wouldn't start... and has not since! It sounds as though there's no fuel getting through as it attempts to fire but doesn't. I've put a can of fuel in to be sure it wasn't a faulty fuel gauge and still nothing.
I've looked at a few on-line diagnosises and it seems that anything to do with non-starting is attributed to either the crank sensor or the immobiliser.
I got 2 fobs with the car and one worked fine, in desparation I took out the battery and tried it in the other fob, the fobs work fine!
As for the cranks sensor, I would have expected some kind of clue as to it's faulty-ness earlier in the day.
Any help much appreciated!
Thanks
Mark 8-)
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Hi all, apologies that this is my first post and it's one requesting help!
I seem to have a similar problem.
pcked up a 1996 P plate 2.5V6 CDX Auto Saloon yesterday and it drove fine, turned it off a few times through the day and drove about 50 miles in total. Anyway, about tea time I pulled up at home and turned the car off. I then tried to restart it as I changed my mind and decided to nip to the shop, and it wouldn't start... and has not since! It sounds as though there's no fuel getting through as it attempts to fire but doesn't. I've put a can of fuel in to be sure it wasn't a faulty fuel gauge and still nothing.
I've looked at a few on-line diagnosises and it seems that anything to do with non-starting is attributed to either the crank sensor or the immobiliser.
I got 2 fobs with the car and one worked fine, in desparation I took out the battery and tried it in the other fob, the fobs work fine!
As for the cranks sensor, I would have expected some kind of clue as to it's faulty-ness earlier in the day.
Any help much appreciated!
Thanks
Mark 8-)
do paperclip test and post back results :)
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Hi all, well, as I'd convinced myself it was the Crank Sensor I took the scuttle etc off to do a reccy and see how i was going to change it. I spotted a 4 pin connector unplugged from the very back of the engine and plugged it back in to what felt like the box and hey presto!!! started!!! :)Couldn't possibly have seen it without removing the scuttle so what an easy fix :) 8-) ::)
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Hi all, well, as I'd convinced myself it was the Crank Sensor I took the scuttle etc off to do a reccy and see how i was going to change it. I spotted a 4 pin connector unplugged from the very back of the engine and plugged it back in to what felt like the box and hey presto!!! started!!! :)Couldn't possibly have seen it without removing the scuttle so what an easy fix :) 8-) ::)
do the paperclip test - if you get a 19 back, change sensor anyway
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Why would I change the sensor when it's not broken? It's not a service item?! :) Plus I'm pretty sure it's been changed at some point in the past as there's something in the history from 5 years ago
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Why would I change the sensor when it's not broken? It's not a service item?! :) Plus I'm pretty sure it's been changed at some point in the past as there's something in the history from 5 years ago
Oh trust me, if you have a stored 19 code, change it.
:-X
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The boy said, IF you get a 19, change the sensor
That code meaning the sensor is knackered, although possibily not enough to cause total failure yet.
if you do have a 19, and the sensor gives up completley, which it will, and your not at home, you qualify for a ride home with the nice AA man!
several people here have had it, theboy worst than most!
Remember as well, this isn't a sensor that gives you limp mode...when it goes, you are stranded, You cannot push or jump start
Your only options are fix or tow!
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The boy said, IF you get a 19, change the sensor
That code meaning the sensor is knackered, although possibily not enough to cause total failure yet.
if you do have a 19, and the sensor gives up completley, which it will, and your not at home, you qualify for a ride home with the nice AA man!
several people here have had it, theboy worst than most!
>:(
Let my experience be a warning to others. Breaking down 800 miles from home, in another country, in the middle of nowhere, not pleasant :(
The crank sensor is the one sensor on the v6 that has no limp mode. If/when it fails, you are stuffed.
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I still didn't fix the problem and it's persisting.
I put the car on the computer check in more than one workshop. All of them told me that there is no trouble code appearing on the tests but on of them found fault number P1219 with no description so he explained that only the dealer can know what the problem is.
2 weeks ago, I was travelling for 6 days. So, I left the car not working and when I came back I found out that the battery is out of order when I charged it the car started from the first time while it's connected with charging cables from the other car.
Does this give a new indication?