Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: rcaws on 15 August 2007, 10:47:07
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Hi Guys
The shift action on my MV6 is a bit like stiring coal at the moment, notchy and clunky, especially 2nd to 3rd. This is at least in part down to my clutch being on its way out, Symptoms are heavy pedal sitting 'high' and a slow action. can also feel 'juddering' from the clutch plate when pulling away unless the revs are right.
Funds are a bit tight at the mo, so was going to try changing the oil in the gearbox to see if it improves matters. The oil filler/level hole looks easy to get to when jacked up (with axle stands of course) but how about actually getting the oil in? and then checking the level with the car back down on the ground?
Is it worth doing? or should i bite the bullet and fork out the £500 odd quid for the clutch? :-/
Thanks
rich
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Refilling is not that difficult: get about a metre of plastic pipe and a funnel. You can then pour the refil oil in from the engine bay. checking the level is another matter.
Having said that, if your clutch is on the way out then it is unlikely to make a difference. I've never changed the clutch on an omega myself but if you are prepared to get your mits dirty I'd be surprised if it cost more than about £150...
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DIY clutch change is straight forward but the juddering might point to another problem.
Judder can be due to overheated clutch linings or oil contamination of the friction surfaces which is usually the crankshaft rear oil seal but the Omega also has a dual mass flywheel where the clutch part is connected to the crankshaft part via a ring of coil springs and some friction linings to provide damping. If these springs collapse or break then you get free play between crank and clutch, I found this to cause quite severe judder and it also affected gear change 'quality'.
A new dual mass flywheel is vvvexpensive so you would be looking for a good one from a breaker. You have to remove gearbox and clutch to test for free play in the flywheel.
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I bought a genuine VX clutch kit for about £60 IIRC -- it was from a member who sold the car before getting it fitted. Then paid a local garage £120 to fit it. Clutch action was much improved -- bite point much lower, and less pedal effort required.
That was at 160,000 miles, now on 172,000 and the gearbox oil is still spot on. I'd be surprised if the gearbox itself needs any attention, it won't do any harm to change the oil but you'll probably find the old oil is almost as clean as the new stuff! There seem to be very few problems with manual gearboxes.
Flywheel or oil contamination issues are more likely. It should be reasonably obvious if one of those problems are present when you remove the old clutch.
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Thanks for the comprehensive replys!
Some more info that may/maynot be relevent! The gearbox is much slicker for the first 5mins or so of driving untill warm. and it is far noisier when warm. The clutch on the other hand is stiff and softens slightly as it warms up. The Juddering is only present when insuficient revs are used, it rarely does it when im driving but perhaps i have udjusted style to compensate?!
Also relevant is that the car has only covered an indicated 80.000 miles, 10.000 covered by me. Which is supported by a stamped service book, for what thats worth :-/ so am a bit concerned.
The only clutch i have attempted was on a Rover 216 (no laughing) which was a pain in the ass, had to drop the engine to get the box off. but what i am most worried about is the flywheel. Is it easyenough to change, assuming i can get one? and any idea on cost?
Thanks again
rich
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The only clutch i have attempted was on a Rover 216 (no laughing) which was a pain in the ass, had to drop the engine to get the box off. but what i am most worried about is the flywheel. Is it easyenough to change, assuming i can get one? and any idea on cost?
Thanks again
rich
The advantage of doing an Omega's clutch is that the Omega has a proper engine & gearbox configuration. The recent gearbox change on my Astra was a tw4t of a job when you're doing it on your drive without the benefit of a lift. I would think that an Omega's g/box is bloody heavy though.
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is the flywheel on a 2.5v6 manual the same?
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The 2.5 and 3.0 flywheels are different but it may be possible to swap them (I don't know for certain).
One person can lift a manual gearbox they're not that heavy, but realistically you need two people to wiggle it into place.
New genuine OEM clutch from buypartsby.co.uk is around £120.
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One person can lift a manual gearbox they're not that heavy ...........
Neither is an Opel Manta's but I remember (yerars ago) it felt a lot heavier at arm's length while I was under the car trying to get the barsteward to line up the clutch & input shaft!! :y :y
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New genuine OEM clutch from buypartsby.co.uk is around £120.
Can someone with trade club check the price? ISTR it's about £80-90 + VAT for the full kit.
Surprised if it's gone at 80,000 miles though, that implies some seriously unsympathetic driving, or more likely just incompetent driving!
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New genuine OEM clutch from buypartsby.co.uk is around £120.
Can someone with trade club check the price? ISTR it's about £80-90 + VAT for the full kit.
Surprised if it's gone at 80,000 miles though, that implies some seriously unsympathetic driving, or more likely just incompetent driving!
£170 + VAT TC, £255 + VAT retail. :(
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£170 + VAT TC, £255 + VAT retail. :(
:o :o :o
Guess I got a bargain then :D
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£170 + VAT TC, £255 + VAT retail. :(
:o :o :o
Guess I got a bargain then :D
Yeah, that shocked me as well...
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My clutch pressure plate failed at around 110k miles, there was loads of material left on the friction plate.
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Thanks for the info!
I might be brave enough to have a go myself! :-/
I have been quoted £450 'ish' to replace the clutch at the local garage, but as the mechanic puts it 'you know these have a dualmass flywheel..........'
Will haynes cover this work well enough? or should i be looking somewhere else for a good diy guide? i think i will have a go, but want to be clued up first ;)
One other question, sorry. would bleeding the clutch make any difference? and do i not have to bleed it anyway if i replace the clutch? only the fluid in the resevoir is murky and dark brown, and the brakes are not as sharp as they should be, i was thinking this may make the clutch action heavy etc......
Thanks again for all the help :y
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Fully stamped service book but the hydraulic fluid is dark brown? :o :o
Its supposed to be changed every 2 years!!!
A clutch bleed wont hurt and is easy to do. But follow the maintainance guide and bleed and service your brakes at the same time.
Sort out the clutch once the important safety bits are right.
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You will have to bleed the clutch after changing it because you have to disconnect the hydraulics to get the gearbox off.