Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: kcl on 20 August 2007, 13:17:24
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Front shocks and wishbones replaced and naturally had the wheels aligned. The guy had set camber to -00,44 and -00,40 in front, but Autodata gives -01,40+-00,45. The rear cambers are as should, -01,39 and -01,57 (given goal is -01,55) What should I do? The guy said, that the tyres were already a bit worn from inside so that's why he figured -00,45 would be OK. If it behaves badly etc I have the right to take it back and have the camber in factory set, but is it necessary in your opinion? Tomorrow I'll be having new tyres, hope I will not have the ruined. If -00,45 in front works, what would be the best value for rear camber? The car is original, not lowered.
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Not sure about the actual figures, but Tony from Wheels In Motion did say that the factory settings on the Omega cause inner tyre wear (as it did on mine), he set it outside the factory default limits and the car has covered 10k since with absolutly even wear acros the tread.
So your guy may not necessarily be wrong. See also http://www.wheels-inmotion.co.uk/
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Is it really possible to adjust the camber? Just memorized the assembly of shocks / struts and there was no eccentric parts? The adjustment can not be done by just the attaching srews, because no matter how you adjust, after driving to the first bump this kind of setting would be undone? How is the camber adjusted? How is your car handling with "out-of-the-standard" camber?
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OK, you asked for it.... ;D
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1180214023/8#8
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1167417501/7#7
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1164928799/9#9
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1163536334/3#3
and yes, the front camber is adjustable by slacking the two bolts holding the suspension to the strut.
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Thanks, got what I asked for... Endless story, there seems not to be any "right" figures for camber...
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Figure suggested to me was -1.20' which should improve inner tyre wear.
Cheers Pete
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Figure suggested to me was -1.20' which should improve inner tyre wear.
Cheers Pete
Thats the figure Wheels in Motion recommend, seems to work on my fleet.
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Mine are set to approx 1'10 to overcome inside edge wear.
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Contact mark dtm for the correct settings for front camber. most omegas suffer from inner edge wear and it is correctable if you take it to someone who knows what they are doing and know how to use the equipment they have. Tony at wheels in motion is the man to take it to by all accounts.Will have to go see THE MAN asap myself soon :)
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I very highly recommend http://www.wheels-inmotion.co.uk - the owner, Tony, really does know his stuff. Mention Omega Owners for a capped price :)
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small problem... ;)
(http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/2994/finlandfm8.jpg)
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;D ;D ;D Yes, that might be a slightly difficult one to arrange on such short notice ;D
But thanks for the advice, before the new parts the camber was -02,15' and -01,45' (figures measured last winter when tie rod end was changed) So, actual difference between now and then 01,15' and 01,05'. But still, I wonder if my current figures will make any difference to anything; only 10 minutes below the lower tolerance, that's only 1/6 degrees. Is this too much? What about adding camber, to let's say 1,10 or something like that; will it make my steering more stabile and give more response in corners? A small poll would do the same: if your car was set up as mine, would you change it or not?
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:( My "quick poll" doesn't seem to have much results... Went for a longer drive with it and steering seems sort of sticky with lower speeds, is this caused by too small negative camber? Shouldn't it be vice versa?
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This might sound really daft but i found that my 17's softstar's wear perfectly for all their life (roughly 35 000 miles), yet when the rims where off being refurbished i bought some standard 15 alloys from fleebay and the car chewed through the inside edge of those to the canvas leaving 5mm and 4.5mm in the centre. But mine has been lowered 30mm. Am getting the camber checked admittedley.
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KCL, I think you need to drive this car for several hundred miles or so and monitor front tyre wear and the tyres feeling more sticky as you say at lower speeds is probably the fact that there is now more tyre in contact with the road surface as it were due to camber having been set more positive, if you see what I mean.
The rear camber is not adjustable, only the toe-in or out.
P.S can you still get Nokia tyres over there in Finland, I used to use these tyres at one time and were very good, but I suppose I would say that as I used to work for Nokia here in UK ;D
Cheers Pete
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Front shocks and wishbones replaced and naturally had the wheels aligned. The guy had set camber to -00,44 and -00,40 in front, but Autodata gives -01,40+-00,45. The rear cambers are as should, -01,39 and -01,57 (given goal is -01,55) What should I do? The guy said, that the tyres were already a bit worn from inside so that's why he figured -00,45 would be OK. If it behaves badly etc I have the right to take it back and have the camber in factory set, but is it necessary in your opinion? Tomorrow I'll be having new tyres, hope I will not have the ruined. If -00,45 in front works, what would be the best value for rear camber? The car is original, not lowered.
I am a little worried by the positions. -44 and -40 is a major move away from the stock positions. Seemingly the reason was due to the visible pattern of tyre wear.
What's missing from your post is "what" was the camber positions before correction?
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For the record, Tony set the camber on my car to -1°27' and -1°28'.
Car did nearly 10k miles since, and the wear is totally even across the tread.
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As a matter of fact they did not change the camber at all. It has been around 1,50', but it obviously changed when I changed the shocks. I will take it to the shop and ask for 01,10' for each side. The tyre wear really was not bad, in my opinion they were evenly worn, the man at the shop said that was the reason he did not alter the camber. So, he was being just f*****g lazy!
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It's not a bad idea to mark the position of the bracket on the strut by outlining it with tipex or similar before dismantling, it will allow you to put it back to roughly the same camber for starters i.e. you will not be miles off, although you will obviously still need to get it properly adjusted with the right kit.
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That's true markjay, but I figured to put the bolts roughly in place due to the fact that it still needs to be aligned. You mentioned a kit, do I really need one? Both options have been mentioned; just to use the original bolts or special camber kit?
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Something like this:
http://tinyurl.com/yoh363
A bit too expensive for DIY though, better get it done in a garage.
Haynes describe a makeshift tool in some of their manuals, but I don't think that is very accurate...