Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: matt_mph on 02 August 2007, 20:03:13
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Right, calling all owners who have had there omegas lowered. what is the ride quality like now its been lowered? Looking at getting an omega next year for my 18th or maybe 19th and was wondering if lowering effects the ride quality too much and also does it make its handle any better?
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I wouldn't suggest it with the leveling control. Best bet would be throw some dub's on it and get ground effects makes it look lower without messing with leveling controller. Its nice as the computer adjusts to your driving, ex. drive it hard and fast it will lower the front end a bit. Dunno if you guys have it but we do here. Hope that helps
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Cheers mate, I know palmer3914 omega is lowered
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Ride is a bit harder when lowered, not excessively though and still not as bad as most modern front wheel drive cars. Handling is much improved....
Irmscher lowering springs (30mm) and bilstein shocks are a good setup.
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Top man mark :). Is yours by any chance lowered? if so any chance u taking me for a spin in it, as i'm only in bulwell 8-)
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No its not......yet.
They handle surprisingly well anyway and can catch out most front wheel drive cars!
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good good. At the moment just testing the water as i won't be able to afford one till next year. But deffo going to be a 3.0 v6 manual :P cant beat the rawr of a V6
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I lowered my 2.5td by 40mm (shorter springs and slghtly upgraded Monroe shocks).
If you lower it you MUST fit a CAMBER ADJUSTMENT KIT !! (Or you'll be buying tyres as often as you change yer pants !)
Lowering a car changes the steering geometry and the Omega is not adustable as standard.
Easy to fit. The front involves drilling out the lower of the two holes on the front strut (they even supplied the drill bit). Once the hole is drilled out, the cammed adjusting bolt kit is fitted.
It would be best if the front and rear kits were fitted at the time the camber set up is done 'cos the geometry will now be "all over the place".
I fitted mine myself and set it up visually, so it is possible to do it yourself and then drive to the set up, but it was trial and error and the improvement to the steering when it was done properly shows how far out I was. One degree out is e'nuff to cause steering problems.
I have concentric adjustable poly bushes on the rear and the camber adjustment kit on the front. Both are available from Regal Auto.
I think they were listed as for the Vectra (check with Regal on that though).
Make sure whoever is doing the camber adjustment have a 4 wheel allignment facility. NOT the "Lazerline type" 4 wheel "tracking" facility that most tyre places have. It must be for camber adustment as well. I've been caught out by that. Booked the car in...took a day off...turns out they could only do tracking...Doh!!).
I think 40mm lowered requires a 1.10 deg setting (+/-0.45).
Also changed the wheels and tyres, so I'm now running 235/45-17 tyres(same as the MV6). This firms up the ride and improves the handling as side wall flexing is reduced.
Properly done it'll handle as good as it looks...and a lowered Omega with 17" alloys looks the puppies testicles !!
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If you lower it you MUST fit a CAMBER ADJUSTMENT KIT !! (Or you'll be buying tyres as often as you change yer pants !)
Lowering a car changes the steering geometry and the Omega is not adustable as standard.
Cobblers, front camber is adjustable, rears, being trailing arm setup, doesn't drastically affect camber.
I think 40mm lowered requires a 1.10 deg setting (+/-0.45).
About the same target then. Only +-.45 is way too much tolerance.
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Ok, if the front camber is adjustable on a STANDARD Omega then please enlighten me as to how this is done.
As for the +/-.45 being too much. I did think that was a bit much, but that's what the computer said. Mind you, we got it to within +.05, so it was not an issue.
Not sure on the "Doesn't drastically affecting the rear" statement. I have my 4 standard wheels and tyres that were fitted before I had the camber adjustment kits. They're in my garage and are ALL down to the canvas on the inside edge. (Yes I know...How did I let them get so bad ? er...well ya live 'n' learn !).
Also whilst were on the subject of "big wheels" etc. I think I'm right in saying that the Omega will take 19" wheels without any arch mods.
If you could post a "how to" re: front camber adjustment, I'd be most greatfull.
I don't fancy spending nearly £80-00 for no reason at all, to do the same on my next Omega. Not gonna transfer the Camber kit as it's not as easy to adjust as it used to be. Cheers.
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Ok, if the front camber is adjustable on a STANDARD Omega then please enlighten me as to how this is done.
As for the +/-.45 being too much. I did think that was a bit much, but that's what the computer said. Mind you, we got it to within +.05, so it was not an issue.
Not sure on the "Doesn't drastically affecting the rear" statement. I have my 4 standard wheels and tyres that were fitted before I had the camber adjustment kits. They're in my garage and are ALL down to the canvas on the inside edge. (Yes I know...How did I let them get so bad ? er...well ya live 'n' learn !).
Also whilst were on the subject of "big wheels" etc. I think I'm right in saying that the Omega will take 19" wheels without any arch mods.
If you could post a "how to" re: front camber adjustment, I'd be most greatfull.
I don't fancy spending nearly £80-00 for no reason at all, to do the same on my next Omega. Not gonna transfer the Camber kit as it's not as easy to adjust as it used to be. Cheers.
2 bolts holding hub to strut. loosen these, adjust your camber, retighten.
The trailing arm setup doesn't adjust camber hugely over its travel, unlike MacP struts.
Hope that makes sense...
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good good. At the moment just testing the water as i won't be able to afford one till next year. But deffo going to be a 3.0 v6 manual :P cant beat the rawr of a V6
Have you had an insurance quote recently? my 2.6 was nearly a 1 grand TPFT at 28y/o and 1 yr NCB. Now i have 5 y NCB reinstated i dropped to 450, hopefully sub 400 next year. Fingers crossed.
At 19y/o i could just about get a 1000cc mini insured for a grand TPFT, ouch >:( After i saved up 2y NCB i was given a company car for 5 years and lost it all, in fact i worked in Bullwell, just off Cinderhill island, not far from you i guess!
What you want is a 2ltr manual with go faster stripes - did i mention i was selling mine at all ;)
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Come to think of it - i'm sure mv6's are lowered, mine seems very stable and goes round corners much better than my 2.0. Makes my 2.0 feel like a jelly car.
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good good. At the moment just testing the water as i won't be able to afford one till next year. But deffo going to be a 3.0 v6 manual :P cant beat the rawr of a V6
Have you had an insurance quote recently? my 2.6 was nearly a 1 grand TPFT at 28y/o and 1 yr NCB. Now i have 5 y NCB reinstated i dropped to 450, hopefully sub 400 next year. Fingers crossed.
At 19y/o i could just about get a 1000cc mini insured for a grand TPFT, ouch >:( After i saved up 2y NCB i was given a company car for 5 years and lost it all, in fact i worked in Bullwell, just off Cinderhill island, not far from you i guess!
What you want is a 2ltr manual with go faster stripes - did i mention i was selling mine at all ;)
Thing is, my car " registered in dads name and insured in mums " is used by all 3 of us. I have say on what happens to it. And as my mum is what i call a mature driver ( aka old fat :lol: ) its cheepo cheepo. and also being with direct line i still get a NCB 8-)
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Come to think of it - i'm sure mv6's are lowered, mine seems very stable and goes round corners much better than my 2.0. Makes my 2.0 feel like a jelly car.
I've now got a 2.5 CDX with MV6 wheels and it handles loads better than my old 2.0 GLS. I don't know if it's been lowered (how would I know?) but I don't think so.
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Oh i see, i wish my dad did that for me when i were 19. I don't even think policies like that were available ten years ago... >:(
I though the MV6 was so popular with the cops as it had stiff/low setup from the factory, not to mention the 17" rims. I think only the MV6 is lowered, that and the Elite maybe?
As i say the factory setup on my MV6 give an excellent ride, albeit a little bumpy. I might lower it a little in a year or so, but am unsure of what i can get away with...
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being with direct line i still get a NCB
Not quite I believe - I think that NCB only stays whilst you remain with that company...
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being with direct line i still get a NCB
Not quite I believe - I think that NCB only stays whilst you remain with that company...
yeh thats how it is, but to be honest makes live easier for me and my student pennies
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Been thinking again lol i know dangerous or what lol. But been thinking how low can you go on 19's, as i'v noticed a few cars on the boards have 19' alloys on and they look really small in the massive omega archs
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By all accounts 20's will fit and if someone has a spare set for nowt, I'll try 'em! ;)
As for the 2lt jelly-like handling, what rubbish, gets better if you drive harder!!! :o :y
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Irmscher lowering springs (30mm) and bilstein shocks are a good setup.
Like on my MV6.... :y
Handles well but I like the "bone shaker" style so I think I'll go with koni adjustable struts next time round.
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Mine has 30 mm lowered Irmscher rears, standard fronts, and slightly firmer shocks all round. Sits more 'square' at the rear and handles quite well, now that geometry is set up properly at WIM with the reduced COG.
Given car is generally just me and a full tank of traction fluid and it handles the way I want it to, without unneccessary fuss or bother, if you follow. :y
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where the best place to get uprated springs and shocks? cheap as possible please :y
after driving a 106 with fully uprated suspension (spings, arb's, tb's etc) the MV6 on standard "police spec" springs feels like a boat! not bothered about ride quality at all, just looking to improve the handling!
also im running 15's so might be looking to lower it more than 30, i was thinking about 50 but has anyone tried this before? dont want it to look like a chav chariot "on its arse".
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I got my new 30mm lowered Irmscher rears for £30 off E-bay. Seek and ye shall find. ;)
As to handling, remember its a 1.75 tonne rear wheel drive car, not a fwd lightweight. They are designed to have an amount of body roll, it means that you adjust the driving style accordingly.
Some have lowered the Omega by more than 30mm and no doubt they will be along at some stage and add their tuppenceworth.
ps - ever driven a 3.9 supercharged RangeRover at full chat? Now that really is bodyroll..... ;D
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Current set up of Eibach springs all round, Monroe Sensa-trac struts and standard self levelling rears. Ride quality is not too hard but handling is now 100% better than it was.
Bilstein shocks can now be sourced cheaper than they used to be so are a good base as Mark has already stated and is the only item I wish I had sourced for the front.
Remember that drop stated is a reference point only and will depend on the engine and extras fitted. This I encoutered after speaking to Eibach who were convinced that the 30mm drop would apply at the front as the springs were designed to take the loading of all Omega engines but I still ended up with a 40mm drop which was a bit concerning but has has been okay so far.
I have been on holiday towing a fully laden caravan complete with near enough a full boot load and can confirm that, in my case, there have been no issues with the 30mm rear drop and the self levelling system.
Camber was checked by a local outfit and the camber was said to be okay and as the car handles okay and there is no tyre wear indications that it is otherwise I have to take it as beeng okay. However the camber was set up at the time of fitting with the hub carrier pulled out as far as possible so basically on the stops so had any adjusment been required to the positive side then camber bolts would have been required. The bolts are available but not easy to get hold of.
The only downside to the better handling is that I could do with a set of MV6 type seats - then the car would be complete!
Steve
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hi,ive got a 2.5 elite.it has irmscher lowering springs.lowered about 40mm.and has 235/45/17 tyres.handles like a beaut.cornering much better than my 2.0 cdx. :y
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How would a set of Irmscher springs do on my 2.6?
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I wouldn't suggest it with the leveling control. Best bet would be throw some dub's on it and get ground effects makes it look lower without messing with leveling controller. Its nice as the computer adjusts to your driving, ex. drive it hard and fast it will lower the front end a bit. Dunno if you guys have it but we do here. Hope that helps
I have a 2001 Catera Sport and as far as I know the leveling only affects the rear suspension. Excess weight in the back triggers the compressor and pumps up the rear shocks. Driving harder and faster has nothing to do with it. It's not an active suspension. I rarely travel with passengers so when the time comes I'll probably replace the airshocks with adjustable Koni sport shocks and pull the compressor too. Adding superior shocks and removing dead weight. Killing two birds with one stone.
Elvin