Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Mick_600 on 30 August 2007, 21:03:23
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Dear all. Had a strange problem today. Driving along and she just stops running (auto box so sudden lack of power steering makes life interesting ).
Engine turns over fine, plenty of battery power. I Left it around 10 minutes starts up and runs perfectly ....... several miles later, stops again with no warning.
When running the engine is perfect. When it stops, ignition light and oil light come on and no others. No engine management light warning so things like throttle body and crank sensor seem unlikely. Haven't been able to check for fault codes as my reader is at my mums .... typical ... but wouldn't have expected any with the em light not coming on.
I have just had a cam belt and rollers changed by a local specialist (£160 ) but having watched them do it they know their stuff, should do they used to build V6's at the factory and also the engine runs a lot better than it did before the change due to valve timing now being correct on both sides rather than just the one side which was the position before they did the work !! Still it was only like that for 40,000 miles lol. Seriously though bits they disconnected such as throttle body would cause the engine light to show and it doesn't and all leads are still correctly fitted and secure.
Any help would be very much appreciated and also if any of you are in the North West (they are near Chester) and need work doing at a good price by guys that know what they are doing rather than kids learning what to do, contact me and I'll forward your details somehow.
Thanks
Mike
ps sorry for tending to ask questions rather than help others but I am not yet sufficiently knowledgeable about these yet to be sure my advice wouldn't make things worse.
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When a crank sensor starts to fail, it doesn't always make the EML light show. I would say that is the most likely cause. Certainly not an expensive part and an easy DIY job.
Nick
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crank sensor ::)
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Sounds like the crank sensor is on the way out. Very common fault, and it causes the spontaneous cutting out then mysteriously starting and running perfectly again some time later. Not that difficult to change, although the part costs about £80 IIRC.
It doesn't bring on the EML light because there's no fault when the engine is running, and when it fails the engine stops and the EML comes on anyway.
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;D
3 identical responses within 3 minutes.... think that's some consensus ;)
Oh and I need to type faster :D
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identical symptoms to when mine failed. Only mine decided to do it just outside Dijon, France. Only my phrase book didn't cover "please can you send someone to tow my car off motorway", but I knew enough to tell mechanic he was talking BS that both my cats had failed!
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Mine failed recently (3.2 auto). No engine light although there was a fault code stored.
I'd get the fault codes read, or just change the crank sensor.
Kevin
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Sounds like the crank sensor is on the way out. Very common fault, and it causes the spontaneous cutting out then mysteriously starting and running perfectly again some time later. Not that difficult to change, although the part costs about £80 IIRC.
It doesn't bring on the EML light because there's no fault when the engine is running, and when it fails the engine stops and the EML comes on anyway.
Around the £34 mark from here:
http://www.crankshaftsensors.co.uk/Products.aspx?Man=VAUXHALL%20OPEL&Mod=OMEGA%20B&Ser=OMEGA%20B%203.2%20V6%20Saloon&Year=02/01%20%3E%2007/03&BHP=160&HP=218&CC=3175&Cylinders=06&Valves=24&VID=15808&typep=crankshaftsensors
Could probably source an even cheaper one from Ebay. :y
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Mine was only IRO 42 quid from main dealer on TC.
Kevin
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Bugger.. they've got a fair bit cheaper since I bought mine, that was from a retailer on fleabay 8-)
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Thanks a lot guys .... That'll be a new Crank Sensor then.
Seen one on Fleabay for £38.50 inc VAT and p&p. Written to ask em if it'll arrive on Saturday.
Looks like I'll be forced to fix the wiper cover while I'm at it which is in about 6 bits due to the ripping out of the plod fittings when it was decommisioned.
Cheers again and with a bit more experience pulling it to bits I'll be able to add to forum rather than just take out. I'll post again when it is done and fixed.
Mike
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Thanks a lot guys .... That'll be a new Crank Sensor then.
Seen one on Fleabay for £38.50 inc VAT and p&p. Written to ask em if it'll arrive on Saturday.
Looks like I'll be forced to fix the wiper cover while I'm at it which is in about 6 bits due to the ripping out of the plod fittings when it was decommisioned.
Cheers again and with a bit more experience pulling it to bits I'll be able to add to forum rather than just take out. I'll post again when it is done and fixed.
Mike
Good luck mate! Remember to look up crankshaft sensor change in the maintenance section. Key thing is to make sure the new cable doesn't touch hot surfaces. Secondly, it's hard practically impossible to route it the way it was when the car was manufactured.
On the whole, though, an easy job. ;)
BTW, some details in your profile (type of car - yes I know it's 3.2!! - location etc.) would be useful. :y
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DEFINATELY Crank Sensor
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Good luck :)
Shame you're so far away - i have a spare (slightly cracked) scuttle in the garage....
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Is the old/new shape scuttle the same design??? I'm still trying to think what would have been attached to it to involve damaging it!?!
Mike, have you found many things that have been hacked up (headlights/wiring etc?) and does it run straight & true???
(sorry for off-topic ::) )
All the best :y
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Firstly sorry for not responding to the recent posts. I have been away a couple of times and for some reason haven't had the reminder emails.
It's fixed !!! First time I've had time to do it and it hasn't been pi**ing down. Took about an hour but I reckon 40 minutes of that was on the phone !!
Didn't have to take the scuttle off in the end, because it was bust, it lifted far enough to get at the connector and I routed the new cable through the brake lines without ties. Plenty clear of the exhaust, no hot pipes either and plenty of slack for engine movement.
I did get the wrong part first time around, oblong connector instead of the oval one so the oblong connector one is on ebay now for £30 if anyone needs one.
To answer the post I missed, the difference between the old and new scuttle is that the screen washers are in the scuttle on the new one instead of the on the bonnet. Reckon they bust it trying to take out the cables running through the bulkhead. They just cut them on the end. Just need to fix the airbags now, fault cose say low resitance on the squab which could be the squab if I'm lucky but might also be a short caused buy the burnt out wire I had on a previous post.
No real issues plod wise with it at all. The extra wiring I just take out bits at a time when I have the relevant area stripped down. As a car it is great, handles well for a big car and now I've had the belt done and got the timing right on both banks of valves it goes well too. The mechanic who did the belts remarked on how tight the engine was, in fact they took it in turns to turn the engine over to check it all. It seemed more like a 50k engine rather than the 160k it's actually done. I suppose that'll be it having been serviced every 8k miles instead of the the 20k in the handbook. Would say it drives more like 50k miles too. The only sign of wear is the occasional sticking of the powersteering when stopped on full lock with the engine idling but it is very slow idle at just 500rpm which wouldn't help.
I'd certainly buy another one. Where else can you get a big 02 plate estate car for under £2k that goes like stink. Hope that helps with the off topic and sorry it's a bit late.
Thanks a lot again for all the advice and comments and if I can be of any help to someone that has or is thinking of getting an ex plod, feel free to ask.
Cheers
Mike