Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: pogo on 24 November 2007, 22:41:24
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Sorry if you have read this before but I have been adviced to post this in this area.
(cam belt time question answered thanks)
I have just brought a 1994 (m reg) omega estate ellite 3lt v6 thingy
Couple of questions can you tell me when the timing belt would be due, its done 140k at the moment. Secondly has anyone had problems with the rear suspension, as a ride I found it to wallow a little, this could be down to me being used to hachbacks and there now being a full 147ft extra of car or is there a know issues? Sorry back to the cab belt issue, Im reading there is a pully holding kit, is this a must or can it be done the old fashion way of a touch of paint markings? Third and last thing.... for now, my air con is not working, is there any faults known, or will it be a lack of gas.
Thanks for your time.
Pogo
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Cambelt kit must be changed every 40k, if you don't know when it was last done then change it.
Suspension is alot softer on rear wheel drive cars.
Air-con will probably need a re gass, but that might not cure it. It is the cheapest thing to try first.
HTH.
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DO NOT CHANGE THE CAM BELT WITHOUT THE LOCKING KIT!!!
It WILL end in tears at best...
When was it last changed? If theres no record get a timing belt kit ASAP now, yesterday!
You need the tensioners that come in the kit as they are the weak point of the belt system - don't think 'I'll do those next time' cause there won't be a next time!
rear suspension, as a ride I found it to wallow a little
Bouncy? or.....
With regards to the A/C I heard going to Kwick fleece is a good thing to do as if they dont repair it you get your cashola back. :y
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Cam belt kit to be replaced at 40,000 or 4 years. you must use the locking kit to get it right. :y As for ride quality try a set of new dampers on the back. and check for broken springs.
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Where can I get the cam locking tool necessary to replace the head gaskets on the 3.0 v6. One post shows a kit but says some members had no joy in using it, was this because it was a cheap copy of the proper one or some other reason. I imagine the GM one is expensive is there a decent alternative. My only previous GM car was a Monza which was simple compared to this which looks like a nightmare. I may be spending some time on here seeking assistance from other masochists!!
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Where can I get the cam locking tool necessary to replace the head gaskets on the 3.0 v6. One post shows a kit but says some members had no joy in using it, was this because it was a cheap copy of the proper one or some other reason. I imagine the GM one is expensive is there a decent alternative. My only previous GM car was a Monza which was simple compared to this which looks like a nightmare. I may be spending some time on here seeking assistance from other masochists!!
the SP one can be grabbed from ebay for around £60 if you are patient
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The heads will soon be off so I cant really wait for ebay. Are there any sources that rent this tool?
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Are there any sources that rent this tool?
I have a feeling someone said Autovaux do. Failing that update your profile so people can see your location. Maybe a member close to you will be able to help.
The Laser kits are the ones to avoid. I have one that is OK, but I know 2 forum members who have had laser kits that have been unusable. Sealey and, preferebly, Sykes Pickavant are the ones to go for. I got mine online from a tool retailer (perhaps through ebay - can't remember) and it arrived next day.
Kevin
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Thanks Kevin, do you have a part no. for the sealey or SP tool. There are so many different camlocks for GM engines I'm not sure what I require
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Hi, Just an update to say the belt is done, Local dealership had it on the shelf, carried out in my garage in not bad time without the holding tools.... Im not going to show off, im going to advise anyone not to even try it without the tools, the tension is an absolute pig when the cams move, but got there after around 7 or 8 trys and a fabricated make shift cam locking tool!
Just come back from a test drive, its the first time I could drive it with out the worry of the belt and was pleasently surprised at the power of the old girl, now I have 4 years or 40k to buy a locking kit. LOL
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I'd check the timing with the proper tool as soon as practical. Someone on here will have one in your area, I'm sure, and the timing marks on the tool are much more accurate than the ones on the engine. It's also very easy for the crank to move while you're timing it up without locking it.
Kevin
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Hi, Just an update to say the belt is done, Local dealership had it on the shelf, carried out in my garage in not bad time without the holding tools.... Im not going to show off, im going to advise anyone not to even try it without the tools, the tension is an absolute pig when the cams move, but got there after around 7 or 8 trys and a fabricated make shift cam locking tool!
Just come back from a test drive, its the first time I could drive it with out the worry of the belt and was pleasently surprised at the power of the old girl, now I have 4 years or 40k to buy a locking kit. LOL
Congratulations on doing it. But now check it asap with the proper tools. It is not possible to do it correctly without (unless by pure luck).
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Hi, I had to make up a cam locking tool so wasnt 100% unaided, I can see its very easy to get it wrong... hence the 7-8 attempts but I got there in end, it was just a case of understanding the ways the idlers worked and gauging the tension and lots of turn over by hand and double checking the standard timing marks plus the ones I added, I found a painted line across the cams at there narrowes point (where the locking tool would have been) help a lot. I really do not recomend doing it this way, im not here to cause upset but I brough the car at the weekend and have may miles to do over the next 2 weeks, it was a case of having a go as ive read to many horror stories...
Off to post a fresh post as I have more questions!
Thanks for your advice on this
Pogo