Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: thegasgranny on 09 January 2008, 21:53:57
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Hello All,
Well, I thought I had cracked the cutting out problem after changing the crank sensor two weeks ago... but no. It broke down again (since changing the sensor) on the missus on a dual carriage way whilst on the way to pick up my 11 month old son from nursery.
I can't repeat exactly what she said to me on the phone, but it wasn't "hello dear, there seems to be a slight problem with the car" :o
To cut a long story short, my mate got me to the car (she had managed to coast into a nearby lay-by) and guess what.. it started first time. Hmm.
I drove it about two miles before it coughed and spluttered but I managed to keep it going by going down the gears to almost bump it going again. Then it would clear and go like normal again before spluttering again. Again it cleared and I got to to my mates place where we got it in his garage.
The EML was not on. As a test we disconnected the cam sensor and it started - the EML was on as you would expect. We reconnected the sensor and again it started with no difficulty. EML went out.
I've been leaning towards a fuel problem from the word go because I have taken plugs out when it has packed up before (I was given it 600 miles ago and it's been doing this for the last 300!) and they have been as dry as a bone, even after quite a bit of cranking it at the side of the road. Also, we noticed, when it doesn't start, you don't hear the fuel pump prime, yet you do if it's going to start.
So with this in mind, my brother said he had something similar on his Vectra and it was caused by a faulty fuel relay. So I nicked his relays and tried the car again. It started but it was running 10mins earlier anyway. I decided to bite the bullet and take it for a test run and I made it out the garage before it packed up again. Arrggghhh!!
This "should" be a good motor - X reg, FSH, 62k, not abused, 2 owners but this is not good.
Anyone any suggestions? Oh, when it doesn't start, there appears to be no spark. Could the immobiliser be cutting the ignition and fuel pump???
At this rate, I will be getting rid as I can't afford it to keep breaking down.
Sorry about the long post. I'm going to sit in the lotus position and go Ummmmmmm for a bit.
Cheers.
TGG.
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Did or is the EML on ? If it is or has been since it broke on your misses read the codes by paper clipping it.
It soundsa little like what happened to me and it was my Cam Sensor.
Are the Revs limited to 4500 rmp ?
Oh also check the crank sensor is fitted bang on and correctly i heard of a guy who had problems had the crank sensor change and it was fine for alittle while then he kept having loads of problem he spent loads trying to find out what the problem was but after ages and ages he noticed the crank sensor was not fitted spot on so he refitted it and it sorted all his problems just an idea for you.
Craig
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Hello Sir CraigR,
Nope the EML is not on, and never has been other than when we did the test when we disconnected the cam sensor. It then went into limp mode as expected.
I've had the crank sensor changed to try and fix this, but it doesn't seemed to have made any difference. :-/
Cheers
TGG.
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check your spark plug holes to see if they have water or oil in them also you may need to check your Dissy pack and leads could be part of the problem. does it run rough when its going ?
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blocked fuel filter?
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Hi again Sir Craig,
There's been no water or oil in the plug holes and "when" it runs, it is really nice to drive. Thing is, I'm losing confidence in it, especially when the missus drives it the most usually with the boy in it.
Albitz: I did think about the fuel filter. There is a "wiff" of petrol coming from the rear too. My Dad (the previous owner) had a new fuel pump only a few thousand miles ago. Anyway, my mate has a filter in his garage so I might as well change that tomorrow together with the cam sensor which I already have. (I bought both cam and crank when I started having these problems) The thing is, I'm trying to eliminate one thing at a time, but it's a pain when I thought it was fixed as it had ran ok for two weeks (250 miles).
Thanks again for your help. Any more suggestions besides scrap it. :-?
Cheers.
TGG.
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These kind of intermittent problems are very difficult to diagnose - not helped by them re-occuring no doubt in the most inconvenient situations/weather :(
The thing is to be as systematic as possible - not changing a load of things at once.
There is a Schrader valve on the fuel rail (well there was on my 94 2L).
Its covered in a black plastic cap (like a big tyre valve cap). If you remove that and depress the plunger you should get a squirt of fuel (be ready for it with a rag).
Persoanlly I think the intermittent nature of the problem rules out blocked fuel filter (no harm to change though) or burnt out leads - I think you'd get the symptoms all the time, or at least poor running.
Maybe worth getting the codes read again (not sure if you can paperclip on facelift 4 pot?)
There is a decent amount of fuel in the tank isn't there?
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I had this on a Carlton
It was a kink in a fuel hose near the tank - replaced the hose - fine afterwards.
Drove with molegrips clamping it open to get home!!
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A long time ago I had a similar problem on my 3,0 Capri. It turned out to be a piece of paper in the fuel tank, probably from someone using paper as a funnel in the filler neck. When the fuel dropped to a certain level the paper was sucked onto the fuel pick up pipe by the action of the fuel pump blocking the fuel supply. After letting the car stand for a few minutes it would start again as the paper had floated away from the pick up pipe. I note that you have had a new pump fitted, it might be worth checking that the pick up pipe is clear, with no EML on it could be something as daft as this.
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Interesting that the fuel pump doesn't run and there's no spark when the problem occurs. That tells me that either the ECU isn't detecting cranking (crank / cam / both sensors - eliminated), or that the switched ignition supply to the ECU, or the main engine relay, has packed up.
Might be worth changing the engine relay as well as the fuel pump (next to fuel pump relay, same pink colour).
Kevin
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Hi Kevin,
Thanks for the reply.
I've changed both relay's with my brothers Vectra (2.0ltr Ecotech) which had a simular problem. He changed one of the relays and hey presto, his was fixed. Sadly, mine still isn't.
It's supposedly had a new fuel pump.
I can't keep throwing money at it, or being without it so my mate has lent me a fiesta for the time being.
I will be getting rid of the Omega now as I have no confidence in it. Shame because it 'should' be a good motor. Anyone interested in buying it? - 2 owners from new, genuine 62k FSH, new tyres all round, new CAM and CRANK sensors, fuel pump, fuel filter, ICV, timing belt changed at 45k, new disks and pads bla bla bla. I've got receipts for the lot. Sensible offers considered.
Cheers
TGG.
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One question.....did you use a genuine crank sensor....
I have seen a couple of cases recently where the crank sensor does not sit properly in the mounting hole and can get an intermittent signal. It sometimes even raises a cam sensor incorrect signal error code.
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Yep, it was a genuine part, same as the cam sensor.
It was a right pig to do so I guess it's worth checking as it did run for two weeks after it was changed without any problems.
Cheers
TGG.
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Oh also check the crank sensor is fitted bang on and correctly i heard of a guy who had problems had the crank sensor change and it was fine for alittle while then he kept having loads of problem he spent loads trying to find out what the problem was but after ages and ages he noticed the crank sensor was not fitted spot on so he refitted it and it sorted all his problems just an idea for you.
Craig
Check it again as i said above i know a guy who had a problem like this
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Cheers Sir Craig.
I'll check it tomorrow. Have you any tips because it was a right pain to do originally?
Cheers.
TGG.
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The story so far....
It's still packing up every few miles. The EML isn't on. I've changed the CAM and CRANK sensors and (purple) fuel relays.
It's now running in limp mode. If I disconnect the Lambda sensor, it appears to run as it should - but for how long, I don't know, it's not left my garage yet.
One thing is for certain, the cat is knackered! It's all burnt and most of it dropped out when I took it off. For the time being, I'm going to remove the cat altogether to see if the original problem is fixed.
It should be OK temporarily without a cat.... shouldn't it.
Cheers
TGG.
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try running it without the cat, I used 2 have a cavalier, it wouldnt rev above 3k, tried loads of things (even tho there wasnt anywhere near as much electronics on it) eventually took the exahast of, and the baffles in the back box had broken up so much it was blocked, with no exhaust it ran fine, and with a new exhaust it was good as new. might be worth a try just to disconnect it from the manifold maybe?
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on the subject of the crank sensor.i dont know what the location is on the 4 pot engines but on the v6 engines the wiring runs very close to the exhaust manifold and needs to be routed very carefully otherwise the wires could be damaged by the heat.this could possibly explain it running ok for a while and then starting to play up again.
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on the subject of the crank sensor.i dont know what the location is on the 4 pot engines but on the v6 engines the wiring runs very close to the exhaust manifold and needs to be routed very carefully otherwise the wires could be damaged by the heat.this could possibly explain it running ok for a while and then starting to play up again.
If you have any kind of oil seepage from the front passenger
side of the Cam Cover (quite feasible with blocking breathers),
it tracks down the cable, complete with any condensation, gets
trapped between the cable and the outer protective cover on the
last third of the cable, and collects and cooks where the cable
enters the sensor.
On mine, it had cracked the sensor where the cable entered it,
and tracked inside the sensor. That's one reason why I re-routed
it. The other was I couldn't be bothered to disconnect the power
steering pump, to move it, and follow the original route.