Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: nixoro on 17 January 2008, 08:46:30
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Looking to do the Head gasket on my omega asap just waiting on funds to become available.
The Engine itself has not been heavily used since just after xmas and last weekend I changed the injector seals decided to check the dipstick and the oil filler having checked previously all was fine but this time both are coated in mayo.
I have already done some investigating and a full HG from Vx including Piston Rings is roughly £210 all in
Is it recommended to change the piston rings as I'm hoping it will give it abit more life.
All help would be much appreciated :y
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Something's not right here. Main dealer price for doing head gasket would be much more than you state IMO. And piston rings entails major work in dismantling the engine.
I think you may mean cam cover gaskets, and the associated rubber 'o' rings, which is a much easier and commonly occurring job. Have a look at the various maintenance section guides to this job. It will at least enable you to decide whether the garage is giving you good info. before you open your wallet to them.
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Just read your post again. Is £210 the cost of supplying the parts only? If so, much nearer the mark, but I still suspect it's cam cover problem rather than HG. And I've not read of anyone having to replace piston rings on this forum. More investigation required, I would suggest.
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TBH, A head gasket is an easy repair in-car. If I were going to go so far as to change the rings on an engine, I would take it out of the car and do a full overhaul on the engine.
As shyboy said, it's a major undertaking and trying to do it in-car will make it harder, and also make it impossible to change the main bearings.
Does the engine show any signs of needing a set of rings? TBH, they last well on modern cars and if the compression is (was, before HGF) good and even it's probably not worth touching them.
Modern engines depend on the bores being carefully honed to achieve the life they do out of the rings and bores and honing the bores in-situ won't be as easy..
If it were me, and if the engine was fine before the HGF, I'd change the head gasket on its' own (lap the valves in and certainly change the stem seals while you're at it). If you do decide to overhaul it completely, get a second hand engine and do it at your leisure then swap them over.
Kevin
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I think doing the rings will be time consuming.
What mileage has the car done?
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Yep..once you go in that much trouble , taking the engine out is much better..Also change the exhaust manifold gaskets both..
and valve gaskets..
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This is a 4-pot 2.0
I would try to confirm HG failure before jumping in. Check cylinder compression pressures, any water loss? any signs of water in the cylinders after it has cooled down from fully hot. Light mayo could be due to short runs where it hasnt had chance to warm up fully.
What mileage has it done? The 2.0's seem to wear No1 bore quite badly, this results in a knocking noise when cold (piston slap). If yours does this then you would be better off looking for a low mileage engine as a replacement.
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This is a 4-pot 2.0
I would try to confirm HG failure before jumping in. Check cylinder compression pressures, any water loss? any signs of water in the cylinders after it has cooled down from fully hot. Light mayo could be due to short runs where it hasnt had chance to warm up fully.
What mileage has it done? The 2.0's seem to wear No1 bore quite badly, this results in a knocking noise when cold (piston slap). If yours does this then you would be better off looking for a low mileage engine as a replacement.
That was why I was asking about mileage - may be cheaper/easier to put a known good 2.0 in...
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This is a 4-pot 2.0
I would try to confirm HG failure before jumping in. Check cylinder compression pressures, any water loss? any signs of water in the cylinders after it has cooled down from fully hot. Light mayo could be due to short runs where it hasnt had chance to warm up fully.
What mileage has it done? The 2.0's seem to wear No1 bore quite badly, this results in a knocking noise when cold (piston slap). If yours does this then you would be better off looking for a low mileage engine as a replacement.
yep..dont see 2.0 as I'm in hurry..
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Anyone know WHY piston No.1 wears more than the other three? Did on mine, too!
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Anyone know WHY piston No.1 wears more than the other three? Did on mine, too!
At a guess, it's probably because coolant flow is a little uneven around the block and that cylinder runs hottest as a result.
Kevin
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The car itself has done 149K and since before xmas it has had a water issue as before xmas I had to fit a new thermostat as this was not opening properly
Car over xmas was running fine and drove well too and from London on Boxing day the next day is when my troubles started.
Lumpiness rocky starts and with the coolant loss has caused me to leave it on my parents drive ever since.
I have done a couple of bits to it since but has not been use
Last weekend I changed the Injector seals as there was a ticking from the top which is when I checked for the signs of head gasket failure and found mayo on the dipstick and oil filler cap.
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Does anyone recommend any of the ebay sellers for Head gasket sets or is it Genuine kit all the way.
I am toying with the Idea of using ebay to source parts but not sure of the quality.
If anyone can make any recommendations it would be much appreciated.
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Hi folks
I have been pricing up and my local motor factors can supply a HG set and bolts for roughly £50 + vat, still thinking vx kit.
Now I don't have any worries about removing the head but servicing looks a little scary regards removing and replacing valve stem seals.
Can anyone give me any pointers the car is still sat and now I want to get it sorted.
Is there a guide for removing valves and changing the seals etc.
I know I will need a valve spring compression tool but which to get I'm not sure so any recommended would be much appreciated.
As you can see my time on here is limited at the moment so replies from me may be here and there so to speak.
I can now confirm the HG has gone or on its way I have been losing coolant like it going out of fashion the oil has turned to mayo evident from the dipstick and the oil cap and when looking at the cams is coated.
As said all help would be much appreciated
Cheers
Roy
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You will need a spring compressor with a fairly deep reach to get down onto the spring caps. One designed for modern 16v engines.
A Haynes manual will tell you most of what you need to know. Bear in mind that you want to keep the hydraulic tappets, valve springs, collets, etc. in the same fitted location when you reassemble if at all possible. You can either remove one valve at a time or remove them all and place all the bits for each valve in a small plastic bag and label it.
You will need something to pull the stem seals out. Maybe a suitably sized spring that will locate over the neck of the seal and grip it or failing that you can get a special type of plier. Be very careful not to nick the hydraulic tappet bore!
While you've got the valves out, clean them by putting them in a drill and rubbing with emery cloth, wire wool, etc, then lap them into the head with a sucker on the end of a stick and some grinding compound. Clean all the compound off when it's done. (you can check for a good seal by shining a very bright light under the valve head or by filling the combustion chambers with paraffin with the head upside down and seeing if any leak).
Reassembly, as they say, is the reverse of removal. ::)
Kevin
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Try machinemart for the valve spring compressor think its about £36 and did a good job on my renault head, it`s this onehttp://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht434-multi-valve-spring-compressor/path/automotive-tools
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Get the head down to me mate (courier?) and I'll rebuild it for you.
Failing that, drive over with it and watch it done