Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Canon Cam on 21 March 2008, 19:04:07
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Ok, I know that this will probably have come up previously, but the search results are confusing me (not hard I admit).
All has be fine until wednesday night when, coming off the dual-carraigeway, teh engine management light lit up as I slowed, on accelerating again, light went out.
Next day, all was fine when i took wife to work (cold morning, cold engine), but when I drove to work, the EML cam on again on slowing down (reves dropped) and it stalled as I was going around a slow bend (not fun as power steering lost).
Then, on rest of journey, I had to select neutral and keep revs above idle levels to stop it dropping, EML lighting and more stalling.
Would I be right in saying I need to clean the breather hoses and possibly the IAVC...or does it sound like symptoms of a more serious problem.
I used to have as Astra and the ECU failed on that (similair symptoms prior to complete failure) and I really do not fancy another £200 bill.
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Engine ECUs rarely fail, and I doubt the Astra one did either.
Look under Maintence Guides section for Paperclip test ;)
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Thanks.
I will do the paperclip test thing tomorrow, are all the codes the same on a petrol version as the TD list you have put up recently?
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Thanks.
I will do the paperclip test thing tomorrow, are all the codes the same on a petrol version as the TD list you have put up recently?
No, codes are different. Marks_DTM has put some petrol ones up, but not sure if it covers your engine.
Post up the codes, someone will answer :)
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Ok....just took it for a little spin (had to pick daughter up)
All was ok for first minute (whilst auto-choke was operating).
Then, as I slowed, and clutch was "pulled in" on the auto-box, the revs dropped down below 300, EML came on, but because I started accelerating it did not stall.
A little while later, same thing happened, but I could not accelerate so the engine stalled....which is not a very nice thing to happen coming up to a round-about entrance, as I lost power sterring.
so, from then on, if I was slowing considerably, I would put the auto into nuetral and use left foot braking and right foot to keep the revs up above 700. Then, when ready simply put the selector back into D.
This is not ideal, but saves me stalling and loosing brake assist and power steering.
So........do you all reckong a cleaning of the breather pipes and ICV is needed and is the most common reason?
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Your best bet is the paperclip test. You really won't be able to get a conclusive diagnosis over the forum unless youu've given the system diagnostics a crack at the whip 1st.
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Please do paperclip test first. It may be an airleak or an ICV issue which may not show up, but its a quick 2 minute test, and free (except for cost of paperclip ;D)
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Ok....just done the paperclick trick.
no start up sequence.....just goes staight to flashing out:
10-1-10-10
So I guess this means 0100.
FYI, the car is a W reg 2.0L GLS Auto first registered in July 2000.
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Ok....just done the paperclick trick.
no start up sequence.....just goes staight to flashing out:
10-1-10-10
So I guess this means 0100.
FYI, the car is a W reg 2.0L GLS Auto first registered in July 2000.
yes, 0100
0100 = MAF sensor problem.
Be aware, that MAF sensor faults are not always a problem with the sensor - it can be an airleak in the system somewhere, allowing unmetered air in without the ECU knowing (hence why it throws MAF fault).
Check for air leaks on the intake side, clean the breathers and throttle body as per AA's guide (although thats for 2.2, its similar). Look for signs of EGR leaking.
If, after all that, it still runs lumpy, it may mean changing MAF unfortunately.
MAF faults are rare on v6, and not that common on 2.0, so worth doing the other checks above first (and will do the car good anyway).
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Bizarre. Symptoms described are almost exactly same as those which occured last night on my (facelift) Wreg 2.0 16v GLS auto. ECU light came on and lost power trying to negotiate slow left turn. Gave it a few minutes and crawled 8 miles home with ECU light on all the way. This morning ECU light was intially off but soon come on and has remained on while idling. Engine cuts out while idling too. I'm puzzled as you appear to have done paperclip test but according to the FAQ decription this can only be done on pre facelift models.
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i have identical symptoms on my 2.5.cleaned and lubed icv,no change so ive got another one coming .the confusing thing is i am getting a code 19 (crank sensor) but i put a new crank sensor on in january.
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Bizarre. Symptoms described are almost exactly same as those which occured last night on my (facelift) Wreg 2.0 16v GLS auto. ECU light came on and lost power trying to negotiate slow left turn. Gave it a few minutes and crawled 8 miles home with ECU light on all the way. This morning ECU light was intially off but soon come on and has remained on while idling. Engine cuts out while idling too. I'm puzzled as you appear to have done paperclip test but according to the FAQ decription this can only be done on pre facelift models.
Its engine specific, not year....so 2.0 16V, 2.5V6 and 3.0 V6 can be pqper clipped.
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Bizarre. Symptoms described are almost exactly same as those which occured last night on my (facelift) Wreg 2.0 16v GLS auto. ECU light came on and lost power trying to negotiate slow left turn. Gave it a few minutes and crawled 8 miles home with ECU light on all the way. This morning ECU light was intially off but soon come on and has remained on while idling. Engine cuts out while idling too. I'm puzzled as you appear to have done paperclip test but according to the FAQ decription this can only be done on pre facelift models.
Its engine specific, not year....so 2.0 16V, 2.5V6 and 3.0 V6 can be pqper clipped.
I have just modified Laidback66's post in FAQ to point to my guide, as Laidback's post had some confusing info about which cars could be paperclipped.
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Cheers Marks and The Boy. Will post back with diagnosis.
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Not wanting to hijack Canon's thread, but seeing as I said I'd post diagnosis....I got 335; 340; 352 or, as far as I can gather, Crank sensor; camshaft sensor; Ignition coil 1&2. Perhaps someone could confirm? All look pretty scary and obviously thoughts, input, advice gratefully received.
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Not wanting to hijack Canon's thread, but seeing as I said I'd post diagnosis....I got 335; 340; 352 or, as far as I can gather, Crank sensor; camshaft sensor; Ignition coil 1&2. Perhaps someone could confirm? All look pretty scary and obviously thoughts, input, advice gratefully received.
Start a new thread ;)
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Done, in General Help forum under title: Paperclip diagnosis: 335; 340;352... further input welcomed :y
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Ok, I removed the MAF sensor from the air pipe.
One side (side facing into airlfow (or towards air filter box) was slightly carbonised, blackening on the wire. I cleaned that up using some isopropynol 99% alchohol and q-tip and refitted.
Would it make any difference - I have also put it back in facing the other way (althoug electro connector correctly fitted (so whole unit rotated by 180%.
Next job I guess would be to clean the icv and pipes.
BTW, no air leaks anywhere that I could tell.