Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: subliminal on 23 March 2008, 22:50:22
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Firstly - I’m a bit embarrassed to be writing this after having benefited so much from the information found on this site in the past and never having contributed, but here it goes;
I'm struggling to pinpoint a problem with performance / mpg on my 3.0l MV6 auto. When accelerating normally (e.g. not uphill and not putting my foot down :p) the car seems to accelerate much more slowly than it has done in the past. The rev counter seems to indicate that the engine responds as it always has, but the power eventually put to the road seems lacking.
A bit more detail;
The car only inches forward/backward only ever so slowly when put into D from N. On a slight incline the car will remain stationary until power is applied – on a steeper incline (Sheffield – lots of hills!) the car will tend to roll backwards (annoying!).
The car idles at approx 700 revs and seems to idle fairly smoothly – perhaps ever so slightly lumpy occasionally – according to the good chaps as the (quite respectable/trusted, non-VX) garage this is ‘normal’ (I’m not convinced).
Speeding off at junctions / from standstill is much more ‘civilised’ now – not at all the way I like it for those rush-hour / small gap moments :). Likewise, suddenly accelerating (from any speed) seems to be difficult – the revs are happy jumping approx 400-500 revs or so, but power only follows afterwards in a way that makes it difficult to see off the odd gimp in an escort who is determine to screw you in that soon-to-merge outside lane. Sure I could floor it, but I hate doing that regularly.
When accelerating, the engine speed might jump 500 revs before the actual road speed begins to catch up. In a similar manner, when transitioning from a level piece of road to an incline, the engine speed will tend to stay the same (whilst keeping my foot in the same position :), whilst the road speed might drop 7mph or so.
Changing from 3rd to 4th gear usually happens around 50mph – because I try to drive sensibly (fuel prices and all that!) the revs usually drop down to around 1800 at this point. More recently, however, the revs drop only slightly at this point, perhaps to 2200. Driving on the M180 today, the lockup didn’t seem to want to engage (assuming this gearbox/torque convertor does have a lock-up in gears 3 and 4?) – accelerating (smoothly) from 70 – 80 mph causes the rpm’s to jump up from 2500 to just under 3000 and stay there whilst the road speed catches up slowly.
While keeping a constant speed (or accelerating very slowly) up an incline, the rev counter seems to ‘twiddle’ slightly (as opposed to remaining steady, dropping, or going up). It’s probably only about 10 revs up/down or so and hardly distinguishable, but you spend enough time with a car and you pick up these things :). The engine sound seems to mirror this (bear in mind I’m the only one who can see/hear this – it is VERY slight).
Overall MPG seems to be suffering - especially at lower speeds / accelerating smoothly (and slowly!), I seem to be getting around 10mpg (until 12-20mph -ish?). Motorway mpg seems about 5mpg down on normal at around 28-30 average, instead of 35 average.
Overall the gear changes are as smooth and consistent as I've ever known them (but then, I bought the car with 93k on the clock).
I’ve had the car at a gearbox specialist – and by specialist I mean they are a garage who ONLY deals with gearbox problems. They checked the fluid level/quality, hooked up some sort of diagnostic tool, and took the car out for a drive (well, I was in the passenger seat – the guy pegged it as fast as he could up a street and listened to the gear changes/strange noises). Overall he said it sounded fine – good even, although there was one slow change while he was flooring it. The diagnostic tool revealed no transmission error codes, although it did show a code 31 Engine speed (Present RPM) sensor no signal. I had my regular garage (who does the work I just don’t have time for or REALLY don’t feel like doing :p) swap out the sensor, although looking at the receipt just now it mentions a ‘crank angle sensor’ (which I imagine is the same?). While it has made the engine idle better (still not perfect for my liking) it has done nothing to improve overall performance. (Oh pooh - after further reading I realise its quite typical to show this error if the engine is not running! I do wish the search function would return more than 15 results though :()
Other (potentially relevant) work done recently includes new rocker gaskets (and covers – grr), timing belt, serpentine belt, oil filter/oil, spark plugs, coolant. Bits still outstanding include cleaning the breathers – I doubt the garage gave the lot a clean when they put on the new rocker covers, and an air filter.
I’m not an experienced mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, but am comfortable taking apart anything I have the tools for – it was all a lot easier with the car I had before the Omega though :p.
Any help is very much appreciated. I would to find a garage around here that I can give my car to and be assured that I would get it back fixed, but like so many, it seems to have to look further afield to get some real answers from those who are so much more knowledgeable :).
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Sounds more like engine to me and I would suspect a vac leak somewhere.......
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I'm all ears on this thread... my 3.0 Elite feels about the same, no real get up and go . I thought it was just me being used to driving faster cars but Im now sure its not as spritely as it could be. Vac leak somewhere , that sounds like a fair amount of pipework to check !
I've never managed to get above 25mpg but then I do drive a mix of A roads and DC's in the rush hour.
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As a example, we found a 2.5 auto with a split large breather pipe, it made no difference to idle vaccum (as you would expect) but when repaired increased mpg by 4-5 and restored the power.
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Had a look this morning ,as it was cold it was a quick look ! SO far all I have found was a valve in the air intake pipes that was stuck. It appears to be vacuum driven and is in the alloy piece of the twin intake pipes at the front of the engine (hope this is making sense!). Seems that a coolant pipe had been incorrectly routed and was sat under and slightly in front of this valve preventing it rotating. As soon as I moved the pipe the valve spun around. No idea what this valve is but who knows maybe it will make a difference.
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hmm yeh my mv6 manual was suffering from this i found that the air intake hose wasnt attatched to the tb properly so air was leakin in fixed it and now it goes much better especially since i had it chipped
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Got a bit distracted by a worn tensioner that was very much on its way out - next on the list is the vac check then - bigdods is right - a fair bit of pipework to check!
I really appreciate your pointers chaps - gives me a great starting point!
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I've been slowly eliminating things, and have even (scarily) paid £40 for Vauxhall to diagnose the problem. They didn't come up with anything, and as far as they are concerned the car is 'running fine for its age', which is such an annoying cop-out answer!
The "interlock / lock-up not engaging on 4th gear" problem seems to be occuring more frequently now, perhaps in 20% of trips I take. I have dropped by the gearbox chaps again, who are suggesting it may well be a sticky valve, and suggest changing the valve body at a cost of £542 - not sure if this is reasonable or not yet.
I am wondering if the interlock / lock-up is not engaging consistently in 3rd gear - if it is, the cumulative effect would certainly explain the increase in overall fuel consumption. It does not explain the VERY VERY slow crawling forward when in drive but not applying any foot-to-accellerator (it used to move a little quickly forward), nor does it explain the ever so slight RPM variation when accelerating going up-hill (e.g. the RPM needle moves up/down +/- 50-100RPM).
I have wondered if it might be the torque convertor - which might explain the overall lack in performance?
Any thoughts are appreciated as always. I'm going to have a look at prices for torque convertors, valves, and valve bodies :) Bit apprehensive of turning my hand at the autobox though :(
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Whether the auto box locks up in 3rd and 4th will depend on the engine load as seen by the ECU amongst other factors. It will only lockup with relatively light load. If the engine performance is down for some reason the engine load will appear greater to the autobox ECU than the engine's output suggests. Therefore, it's worth eliminating engine problems before worrying about the gearbox.
I'm sure if there was a fault in the gearbox that was preventing lockup engaging, the auto gearbox ECU would have raised a fault.
Kevin
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torque converter for the omega your lookin around £180 for a recon one.
as for the lack of power:
i would start with the cheep option which is to checkall thevac pipes as the others have allready said its a time consuming job to do but needs doing.
as with the gearbox if the specialist says their is nowt wrong and they have checked it i would go with it. usless............its been flooded with water before (then your in a whole world of hurt. ) the water rots the seals and then the gear box fails. goodthing is... you dont seem to have any of the symptoms i ocurred.
let us know what happens when you have checked the pipes. :)
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Did those muppets read gearbox as well as engine codes?
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mmm - I've been reading (on and off) about the problems you encountered Marie :s (I hope you're on your way to getting those sorted!)
I will have to check the vac pipes again - I had a quick look over them and couldn't spot anything, but will have another go! I'm not so familiar with the engine yet, so not sure which parts are likely to be the culprit! (Poo! Just remembered I still haven't changed the air filter!)
The gearbox chaps did read gearbox codes as well as engine codes - vauxhall had a look as well, so there are definately no codes stored (which I guess is something to be happy about I guess!)
I do wish diagnosing problems were more black/white :) (or that at least you could drop your car off somewhere if you were out of your depth and know the garage could sort it!)
I really do appreciate your help (I just wish I had a little more to contribute!)
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i know this might not help you but when my gearbox failed i didnt get any codes. just wouldnt go into reverse.
we striped the old one out to have a look and found one of the gaskets broken down inside the box. :) we wouldnt have known there was a problem if it did go into reverse.
good look.
as an idea if you run your engine and wipe the pipes with soapy water if its lettin by you should be able to see it. dont know how well this would work but its worth a try and your pipes will be clean afterwards.
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If the autobox doesn’t lock the TC, all you have to do is change a solenoid (small sump), not the whole valve body. You can buy a fully working box for £100.
Although mine is just 2.0, I have the same problem. First it was autobox, but now i think t's cured (sticky 2-3rd gear valve - big thanks to Sassanach).
My MPG is still about 15-16 in town and up to 30 on the run.
I tried almost everything and still same thing. Maybe I need to clean breathers and throttle body once again...
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The first step for this fault should be to do a vaccum test....
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might sound daft but has anyone checked atf level
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I'm curious...as my autobox does the same "slight slippage" in 4th on light throttle loads - once over about 1/3rd throttle it kicks back in, yet behaves fine when cold (apart from hanging onto gears for the first 1/4 mile or so - or is this a wierd "rapid warm up" trick?).
How does the box know light/heavy load? Is there a vac line to the 'box, or does it actually "talk" to the engine ECU?
I'm not looking too heavily until I get chance to do a fluid change as a first port of call.
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I'm curious...as my autobox does the same "slight slippage" in 4th on light throttle loads - once over about 1/3rd throttle it kicks back in, yet behaves fine when cold (apart from hanging onto gears for the first 1/4 mile or so - or is this a wierd "rapid warm up" trick?).
How does the box know light/heavy load? Is there a vac line to the 'box, or does it actually "talk" to the engine ECU?
I'm not looking too heavily until I get chance to do a fluid change as a first port of call.
Yup, to get the cats hot quicker
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Found that info in another post somewhere about 10 minutes ago!!
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I've had a bit more or a root around, since the slippage seems to have gotten worse :s
Vac pipes seem fine - engine bay is starting to look cleaner :p
The breathers still need to be cleaned - got the various bits for that today and will do that at the weekend.
Slight leak in rocker gasket still - grr! I was going to drop the car back at the garage that supposedly took care of (small) leak in the first place, but am very tempted to fix it myself and just cut my losses (sigh)
ATF level is fine
I've been back to the autobox people and actually convinced one of the guys there to come for a drive with me! After about 10 mins of him having a go himself as well he was convinced the problem is the torque converter.
I suppose it is a result really! Especially after having been running to various garages in desperate search of a conclusive diagnosis!
Quoted prices are;
£580 for a new genuine replacement
£400 for a new non-vx badged, but apparently the exact same bit
£280 for a reconditioned box (6k warranty)
£150 fitting
£40 fluids
All exclusive of VAT (!)
tbh - I'm seriously tempted to have a look around for a suitable donor vehicle at a scrapyard!
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Might be worth asking in the "Parts for sale or wanted" section, often a few being broken there ...
An AR35 gearbox .. yours will be the AR25.... has just gone for £80 .... big saving :)
I believe the fitting is not too bad .... several "experts" around to guide you ..:)
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Thanks entwood - I'll do that now - AR35 / AR25 - I dont suppose these aren't interchangeable are they? tbh at around £100 for the box I dont mind having it fitted, but the total cost is a little prohibitive otherwise.
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Just called a chap with an 2000-reg MV6 estate listed on ebay (as mentioned in the parts for sale / wanted forum).
68k on the clock apparently, but I suppose the difficulty is that theres little way of knowing the condition of it (the torque converter).
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Just called a chap with an 2000-reg MV6 estate listed on ebay (as mentioned in the parts for sale / wanted forum).
68k on the clock apparently, but I suppose the difficulty is that theres little way of knowing the condition of it (the torque converter).
Did you ask him why he is breaking the car up? this is normally a good indication as to what wrong with the car and any potentail problems with the gearbox.
i was unlucky and got a box for £80 of ebay but have since found out that the TC seal is tits.
Have you been for a second opioin with regard to you Torque converter, before you start spending more money else where.
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According to the chap the car was a runner with cosmetic damage only - looked like it bumpmed into something with front-side damage...
In an attempt to conclusively diagnose my poor performance / mpg problem, I have so far;
* Taken it to my local garage a couple of times, who has driven it and hooked it up to some sort of diagnostic tool (not a tech2)
* Taken it to a gearbox specialist a couple of times, who hooked it up to some sort of diagnostic tool specifically aimed at the autobox.
* Taken it to a Vauxhall garage for a "full diagnostics" session (@ £40), who has driven it and hooked it up to a tech2.
I have called around a two or three other transmission companies, but none were willing to have a look - one simply put the phone down with a "sorry we dont do those" after I told him I had an Omega!
I'm at a stage now where, though I dont want to, I'm ok with spending the money, as long as it will actually fix the problem, and I'm not being screwed on it. TBH I'm pretty sure I could swap out the torque converter myself, but its a little difficult without a lift :P
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I've just been reading about your gearbox change Marie - looked like a huge job, but also like a lot of fun! - I'm jealous! My other half is not in the least bit interested in helping out with the car (she's just had a new Mini!), and because I never feel like doing bits on my own I (foolishly) usually end up taking it to the garage) :p
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Hmm. Plenty of people have had gearbox problems before but I can't recall a torque converter failure.
I would be inclined to check the level and condition of the ATF as a first step, and maybe replace the fluid and filter.
Kevin
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Hmm. Plenty of people have had gearbox problems before but I can't recall a torque converter failure.
I would be inclined to check the level and condition of the ATF as a first step, and maybe replace the fluid and filter.
Kevin
Kevin is right the first port of call with regards to gearbox problems is a fluid level check, followed buy a fluid change with filters and gaskets. Then if the problem still persists i would then proceed further but until the above has been done i wouldnt carry out any fault finding as the problem could be fluid related!
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I've just been reading about your gearbox change Marie - looked like a huge job, but also like a lot of fun! - I'm jealous! My other half is not in the least bit interested in helping out with the car (she's just had a new Mini!), and because I never feel like doing bits on my own I (foolishly) usually end up taking it to the garage) :p
To be honest it was more daughting then big. not knowin what to do at first concerned me. but now i have no worries about takin the box back off again. my only concern is that if i didnt have the help that i am gettin this weekend i might end up makin myself unservicable if the box fell on me! plus without the fellas help i also wouldnt have the range of tools required to carry the job out in the first place!
It is rare to find a women who is willing and able to get their hands dirty and do major machanical jobs, such as workin on a car or aircraft in my case. I find it nice to be different and the hubby likes it until he wants the motor and finds i have got it in peaces yet again! ;D ;D ;D ;D Most people look at me funny when i start talkin about cars mechanically and think i am not capable until they actually see me carryin out a job!
Dont go takin your car to a garage please i used to worry about my capabilities workin on my car but with the right guidance and eyes lookin over your shoulder you will soon have the courage to get on and do jobs on your own! :)
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Thanks Marie - you've convinced to grab the problem by the horns and make the required repairs myself. I have the tools, just need some guts :)
Took the mig in for an MOT today - passed (which is great), but the chaps at the garage managed to bottom out the car and break my (newly sprayed last month!) Irmsher front bumper off its mounting points. I'm not sure whether to be extremely angry or just to start crying!
Had a second opinion on the gearbox/performance problem today - the chap is convinced (like all of you here) that the problem lies with the engine and not the gearbox. He suggested AMF sensor or a partially-blocked cat converter. I'm going to see about cleaning the air sensor over the weekend whilst cleaning the breathers and will see whats involved with temporarily disconnecting the exhaust system just before the catalytic converter.
Tell you what though, the car is NOT going back to that garage unless it REALLY has to. On a different note, going to flush the ATF on a Mazda 626 over the weekend (I'm sure those gearbox were DESIGNED to burn ATF). Can somethign similar be done to the Omega? We're intending to disconnect the hoses from the cooling system (in the 626's case a small radiator) and then (with the help of two large 10l buckets) exchange the old ATF for a fresh batch.
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righto then - Mazda atf replaced (much smoother gear changes and significant performance/mpg increase!). Working on the breathers on the Omega now - Cant get the large or small pipe to come loose from the vent housing! Its properly stuck, and I really dont want to rip it! Any suggestions?
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very small screw driver round the sides and work it off fella :y
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I'll have another go then! Not much room to manouver though.. (even with the winscreen/washer assembly off.
Is the idea to clean the actual aluminium plenum body btw? or just leave that crud there as is?
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Yesterday was long, but interesting. I've cleaned the breather system, including the large pipe from the breather to the vent housing - the small pipe just would not budge! Overall the large pipe was not THAT blocked, but of course it could use a good clean, as could the rest of the breather system and throttle control.
Started it up and all was well - the coughy idle was gone and of course the engine bay looks pretty again now :p Drove it for 1.5 hours and its all gone to pot :( idles higher (normally 600 revs, now 800 revs) and fluctuates quite badly.
Consumption probably still the same, accelerating normally consumes about 10mpg, accelerating up a hill 7-8-9mpg, 28mpg-ish feather-footing on the motorway (usually getting 35mpg on the same stretch) - I have the feeling this is the same problem as experienced before, but that it has worsened. I think there's a very small hole in one of the vac lines (wasnt sure if it was just superficial damage) - will try some soapy water to confirm and electrical tape to further confirm.
The component on the passenger side of the plenum - is that the ICV? It seemed to site fairly loosely onto the plenum - e.g. you can wiggle it..
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A bit of spit said vac leak :) - new piece of vac pipe and thats plugged - hasn't made much difference though.
The ICV on the right-hand side of the plenum (which was pretty damn warm btw!) has a rubber seal at the point where it connects to the plenum body - that seal doesnt seem THAT tight. Popped into the Vx parts counter, who kindly told me that part is no longer kept in and has to be ordered from Opel in Germany - I've asked them to order it in... we'll see if it turns up :)
The higher idle speed has me a little baffled though..
Having now then eliminated (to the best of my ability) the vac lines and breathers, I'm back at the torque converter for the performance / mpg problems. The engine revs responsively, etc. it just doesnt surge forwards like it used to... revs drop to 2200-2300 as I pass 50mph, as opposed to 1800-1900 it used to. I dont seem to use the first 1500ish revs much at all, no matter what speed.
I'm tempted to change the ATF, filter and gasket, but thats about £50 of bits and fluid (which I have, but dont really want to put in, only to replace the torque converter and replace the ATF again!)
Can anyone think of any other tests or things I can check to narrow this down (and fix the idle!)
There's no fellow OOF chaps in the Sheffield area are there?
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Cleaned the ICV and forgot to plug the ECU lead in (doh!) code 57 showing now - is this something that is set and must be cleared or should be considered current? (EML light is not on).
The engine is still idling high (around 900 revs), so I guess I missed an air leak somewhere or the ICV is buggered - will take it out again and just add a little 3-in-1. Incidentally, without the ICV lead plugged in, the engine ran, but spluttered like crazy - anyone know if this is expected, or should it not run at all?
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Slightly different angle on things, but anyone know how to test the multi-ram system? just keeping my eye out for consumption/performance problems whilst trying to find the idle problem now... blip-reving the engine shows the rear multiram blipping accordingly - it doesnt stay 'engaged' with a steady rev though (of, say 4k rpm). The front multiram doesnt seem to do squat :(
and pooh! oil in the plug wells again - I'm seriously starting to doubt the garage's ability to change a rocker gasket.. (second fit!)
there's also a not loud, but distincly audible metal slapping sound when revving the engine - is this simply valves opening/closing? or should they not really be audible...
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sucking the actuator says the front mulriram diaphram is fine - i guess i just wasnt revving the engine enough - difficult to check what you're revving up to on your own.
i'm going to guess that the problem with the high idle is the o-rings at the plenum base to air inlet. vac system also seems to hold vacuum well and i can't identify any leaks, etc. so i guess that eliminates that..
I'll not take the plenum apart again until I have some new ones (#9118135 i think?) - they seemed fine when they went back on though! (I had intended to replace them, but clean forgot to buy them along with the other bits and bobs!)
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removed plenum again today to check it sealed correctly against the air inlets - seems fine. Cleaned throttle body again - idle still high, although if I manually push the throttle further 'closed' the revs drop - note this is just flexing against a screw which I presume you can adjust the idle with? Manually pushing the throttle closed further than its natural resting point doesnt close the throttle butterflies any further shut (they are already completely shut), but does (I presume) affect the throttle position sensor.
Is the throttle position sensor somehting that is calibrated? (e.g. how does it know which position at which no throttle is applied at?)
Also noticed the ICV doesnt completely close - is this normal? The valve does move freely and without resistance.
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The idle should not be adjusted with the throttle screw. The ECU adjusts it with the ICV. I wonder if the garage have wound the screw in? IIRC, the throttles should be almost completely closed at idle. Adjust them with the screw so they don't bind in the bores but close fully. Then make sure they are free to return to that position on the return spring.
Kevin
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Finally got the car back from the body shop two days ago - they did a pretty good job on the front bumper but its just not the same as when it was newly sprayed (annoying).
Attempted to change the ATF and filter yesterday and found that the sump/level plug was on incredibly tight and couldnt get it off in a way I was sure I wouldnt ruin the plug. My local garage has agreed to do the job for me one morning next week - looking forward to that! It does mean that the gearbox specialist who told me that 'they had checked the level and that it as well as the fluid condition was fine' didn't do squat (and charged me £30 for the 'diagnosis'!). On the assumption that the fluid hasnt been changed for some considerable time, I'm hoping the atf change solves the the performance/mpg problems!
The car has been into vx today as well to clear the ICV code and diagnose the high idle - it turns out that the throttle body is worn and that by cleaning it it now sucks in air even though in its 'closed' position! They also advised me against adjusting the 'closed' position with the adjustment screw.
Spare (not worn :p) throttle body around, anyone? :)
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Finally got the car back from the body shop two days ago - they did a pretty good job on the front bumper but its just not the same as when it was newly sprayed (annoying).
Attempted to change the ATF and filter yesterday and found that the sump/level plug was on incredibly tight and couldnt get it off in a way I was sure I wouldnt ruin the plug. My local garage has agreed to do the job for me one morning next week - looking forward to that! It does mean that the gearbox specialist who told me that 'they had checked the level and that it as well as the fluid condition was fine' didn't do squat (and charged me £30 for the 'diagnosis'!). On the assumption that the fluid hasnt been changed for some considerable time, I'm hoping the atf change solves the the performance/mpg problems!
The car has been into vx today as well to clear the ICV code and diagnose the high idle - it turns out that the throttle body is worn and that by cleaning it it now sucks in air even though in its 'closed' position! They also advised me against adjusting the 'closed' position with the adjustment screw.
Spare (not worn :p) throttle body around, anyone? :)
What a load of old crap.......adjust the throttle body screw so the throttles are fully shut but dont bind (by binding you will know what I mean when you wind the screw out to far!).
If the throttle body was to wear then it would be the spindle resulting in slop....not the butterfly.
Ignore the dealer!
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Thanks Mark! Dealer duly ignored, stop position adjusted and idle back to normal! ;D
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Changed ATF and filter - wow, what a difference! MPG is back up to 36mpg average on a round trip from Sheffield to London and overall the car is much more responsive.
The oil was in pretty poor shape and burnt - the chap who was helping me wasn't convinced it had ever been changed before. Incidentally that does mean that the so called "autobox specialist" screwed me and did squat to actually check/diagnose the autobox and fluid.
Occasionaly the lock-up / interlock / overdrive / what ever the heck its called in 4th gear still does not engage - so irritating! I'm tempted to change the ATF again, but may have a look at the valves at the same time. Does anyone know of any technical documentation regarding the valve body?
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Does it remain stationary at idle now and not roll back!?!
Did you follow the correct procedure from here then regards changing the fluid? It's theoretically possible to only change the fluid to about 87.5%
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It crawls forward/backwards on the flat, stationary on slight inclines - haven't stopped on a steeper incline yet (will give that a go). Had a look around for guidelines to changing the ATF and got some help with torque values in http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1211201164. Got about about six litres out I think - will pop into the shed later and check how much ATF is left in the jug..
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Still rolls back on a steep incline (but then, it was a pretty steep incline) - not sure if this is normal behaviour.
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roll back on steep incline was norm, on my 99cdx. The car in my experience will not account for holding on any given slope. It would roll forward at between 4/5 mph on flat, with both feet off pedals. If you where to drive it up an increasing incline it would come to a point when the slope would b enough for the car to come to a halt, if you drove further up to a steeper part it would roll back to a point that tick over would stop it.This will vary with your tick over problems i am sure. I had constant agro with my icv after it packed up(car stalled) had to remove and wash out with carb cleaner 5 or 6 times to get working again, and once a month to keep on top of it. Did not notice any prob.with a fault code if left un plugged, just plugged it back in.
The rubber bit to plenum never fitted well
So wrapped electrical tape round the ribbed bit to keep it air tight, and replaced it every time i cleaned it. Front multi ram
on myn stopped working koz i got the vac pipes wrong way round at the bottom of bag pipes(air intakes). Easy done. If you notice a step at 4k rpm try swapping the pipes around on the vac tank(if it has one, see guide) at the bottom of bag pipes? Should be able to see it working by blipping the throttle from the engine bay. Ttfn.