Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Grimble on 11 June 2008, 19:24:44
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Nearside steering idler arm needs replacing due to excessive wear at the rear end.
The front end of it fits over a taper bolt through an eye at end of the centre bar where it joins the track-rod end. Have removed nut but can't knock taper bolt out. Any special tool or technique needed?
Any useful tips appreciated.
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Nearside steering idler arm needs replacing due to excessive wear at the rear end.
The front end of it fits over a taper bolt through an eye at end of the centre bar where it joins the track-rod end. Have removed nut but can't knock taper bolt out. Any special tool or technique needed?
Any useful tips appreciated.
ball joint remover ;)
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Thanks TheBoy, I'll get one tomorrow if my mate over the road hasn't got one!
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I seem to recall that the normal screw type on the front ball joint, and fork type on rear (fork types can damage ball joint).
Marks_DTM has a method involving 2 hammers, and a bit of a knack, but then he's clever :P
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I've got 2 hammers but probably not the knack, so could be painful :o. I don't think I'll risk it!
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changed mine today
just hit it with hammer while holding rack
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Thanks for that encouragement Andyb.
I put wood chock under arm and hit top (threaded) end (with nut on losely). Should I be hitting arm underneath or somewhere else?
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brace the rack between crossmember and the rack so it dont move
then just hit the idler as low to the bottom bolt as you can get it it will move after a few hits dont have to do it hard
when replacing
iput the new one on and used the old one to push the idler up with the use of the jack as the spline will turn when you try to tighten the bolt
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Thanks for that Andyb, I'll get straight onto it - when it stops raining :(
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There is a maintenance guide on it which worked perfectly for me.
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Hi ians
Can you provide a link to the guide please. I've tried the suggestions made so far but still can't separate the ball joint end from the eye at end of centre rod. Many thanks
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Here you go
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1158598664/0#0
in the maintenance guide section for future reference :y. I hit mine once as described and it popped off, much to my astonishment.
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Many thanks ians. I'll read up and then give it a go. Hope I strike it lucky as you did ;D
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Job done [smiley=2vrolijk_08.gif]
Couldn't get enough leverage with my socket bar so I wedged scissor jack between chassis member above joint and the inner end of steering arm (track rod). Wound up a bit of pressure then hit under-side of idler arm (ball-joint end) a few times and it popped :). Otherwise, everything went according to RonaldMcBurger's maintenance guide - thanks very much Ron :y.
Thanks everyone for your time and advice, especially ians for pointing me to Ron's guide :y. I'll check the Maintenance Guide section first in future - save us all some time ;D
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Result :y
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I don't mean to hijack your thread - but I have had an attempt at replacing my idler arm without success :'(
Even with a massive amount of leverage and thrashing - it just would not move, the next step is either the acetylene or the grinder. Has anyone resorted to these measure before and is there anything i'm likely to knacker in the process?
TIA Platty :)
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Hi platty
I was getting nowhere with trying to separate the ball-joint until I followed DonaldMcBurger's maintenance guide at this link:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1158598664/0#0
with a slight modification to the leverage issue.
A scissor jack between the chassis member (running from front to back above the idler arm) and the point where the steering centre rod (rack) joins the steering arm (track rod) can apply far more pressure than a lever - and you have both hands free.
Once in place, wind open the jack between 1 & 2 inches and then hit the underside of the idler arm at the ball-joint end with a heavyish steel hammer. If it does not separate after 5 or 6 hits wind the jack open a bit more and try again, and so on. Spraying the ball-joint with penetrating oil before you start can help.
The ball-joint has a rubber seal which could be damaged by excessive heat unless well shielded.
If all else fails grinding through the ball-joint end of the idler arm could weaken the grip on the taper but restricted space is a problem so the grinder would have to be very small and care would be needed not to damage the tapered shank as the new idler arm has to fit over it.
PS I don't mind you posting on this thread but starting one of your own will get you more responses from people much more experienced than me.
Best wishes
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Thanks Grimble, I think i shall have to tackle it from that angle and fingers crossed it may give :-/
If not.... i will grind the balljoint end of the arm as you say - then try again!
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Thanks Grimble, I think i shall have to tackle it from that angle and fingers crossed it may give :-/
If not.... i will grind the balljoint end of the arm as you say - then try again!
Or try a balljoint splitter ;)