Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: craykent on 07 July 2008, 20:05:40
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Well i have just got the water pump off and lo there is no impellar it has broken up in the emgine we have 75% of bits any advice on finding the rest :-?
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probly all mashed up ! if you lucky ::) try flushing it with water pump off and see if the bits come out of water pump hole matey ! :y
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try to flush out as best you can, removing all hoses etc...
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How hard was it to undo the viscous nut? Was it overheating or running very hot? I'm getting tired of running with the heater on , especially when its raining & I have to shut the roof & windows.
Did sethsmate sort his? :question
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How hard was it to undo the viscous nut? Was it overheating or running very hot? I'm getting tired of running with the heater on , especially when its raining & I have to shut the roof & windows.
Did sethsmate sort his? :question
viscous can be a git. Otherwise very easy.
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What's the best way to jam the pulley to undo the nut?
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Yes and no ......
Water pump changed, thermostat changed, radiator changed - guess what - seemingly little difference. Normal running temp is around the 93/95 mark when driving locally and solo.
I've flushed the cooling system, and put in Vauxhall's own antifreeze at a 50/50 strength. We're off on hols soon, and I don't know what to expect with the caravan in tow!
I've also done an engine oil flush, put in Vauxhall's own 10-40 semi-synthetic, and obviously changed the filter too.
I don't know what else to do - anyone got any further ideas?
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What's the best way to jam the pulley to undo the nut?
wedge something bewtween waterpump pulley bolt and viscous nut
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What's the best way to jam the pulley to undo the nut?
wedge something bewtween waterpump pulley bolt and viscous nut
I did it exactly the same way :y
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Took the pump out, it's perfect. Viscous came off on first tap.
Took out stat tested seems to start opening at 90 ,open at 100 ordered new one and put car back together , Letting hylomar cure on stat union will report on no stat results tomorrow if instant gasket works.
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Running with no stat it climbed slowly to 100 went down when I turned heat on. This was driving in rain, no heavy traffic. Rad was hot top right , cool elsewhere. Is it the rad. ???????
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They are known to silt up on the farm yard engine.....
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I connected a fat sack pump to the top hose, water flowed freely through the block and rad. I started the engine, water came out the top hose but not as fast as I expeted even when revving.
I dont want to change the rad & get the same result as sethsmate.
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They are known to silt up on the farm yard engine.....
I expect its the manure that does it! ;D
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helpfull answers please, How can I test the rad without disconnecting tranny pipes.
Aircon is RIP
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helpfull answers please, How can I test the rad without disconnecting tranny pipes.
Aircon is RIP
you won't lose much atf undoing the tranny cooler (though still worth rechecking level after.
It is possible to infrared sensors to check rad if you really don't want to remove.
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Well I have to drive 300 miles tomorrow so I'll see how I get on.
I had ordered a new pump & stat. But doubt they will help.
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Well I have to drive 300 miles tomorrow so I'll see how I get on.
I had ordered a new pump & stat. But doubt they will help.
If the rad proves OK, you may need to do an oil flush
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Now why would an oil flush help.
Car is now on 150k I got it at 114k full history but no record of the 5k oil changes. It runs strong & silent.
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Taking on board The Boy's theory regarding the oil-change, I did mine.
This included an oil flush, refilling with Vx 10/40 semi-synthetic, and a filter-change. I've noticed a minor running temp change - maybe a degree or two lower.
My own view is that Vx's recommended 10k intervals during the early stages of the engine lives has contributed significantly to the problems now being encountered. My tractor gets an oil/filter change every 3k miles.
Let us not forget that many of these engines are now over a decade old, and have often accumulated collossal mileages.
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Now why would an oil flush help.
Car is now on 150k I got it at 114k full history but no record of the 5k oil changes. It runs strong & silent.
like many engines, the td uses oil and oil jets to assist with cooling as well as lubrication.
The oil jets block sometimes, causing lack of cooling.
Remember, oil change interval is 4.5k max (not 5k) ;)
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Ok it runs hotter with out the stat. Had to leave heating on full to keep under 97, coudn't stay over 75mph for any period. Rad was cold when I got home.
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I'm not in city traffic too often so I figure 5k changes ok.
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I'm not in city traffic too often so I figure 5k changes ok.
that 4.5k is MAX, hence why I do mine every 3k...
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Yep - engine oil and filter every 3k religiously ...... !
Before starting this regime, do an oil flush.
You'll be doing the engine a big favour in the long term. I use Vx's own brand 10/40 semi -synthetic which is very favourably priced.
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If the rad is cold it would suggest a lack of movement within it - my complete system is warm when i stop and touch the pipes or rad.
If you need a stat I have a new Vx one I purchased but didn't need - see http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1212092549
As said - 4.5k MAX - mine always gets done at 3-3.5k with Vx parts & oil.
4 x 5l oil is £29
4 x Filter is £20
That lasts me about a year-ish.
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I changed the pump, No difference. I changed the stat, not tried it yet.
The bulk of the water flowing into the rad seems to take a short cut thru the small electric pump under the expansion bottle.
What is this for? it comes on with the electric fans (top rad switch) (bottom switch doesn't do anything.
Can I crimp this pipe to force the water thru the matrix or is it related to the tranny cooler?
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I changed the pump, No difference. I changed the stat, not tried it yet.
The bulk of the water flowing into the rad seems to take a short cut thru the small electric pump under the expansion bottle.
What is this for? it comes on with the electric fans (top rad switch) (bottom switch doesn't do anything.
Can I crimp this pipe to force the water thru the matrix or is it related to the tranny cooler?
The rad should be an easier route for coolant, hence the other bit shouldn't affect it. If the rad is blocked, then its fubar
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The rad should be an easier route for coolant, hence the other bit shouldn't affect it. If the rad is blocked, then its fubar .
It looks like you're right.
What is that electric pump for? sucks out of bottomof rad batt side , returns top MAF side?
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The rad should be an easier route for coolant, hence the other bit shouldn't affect it. If the rad is blocked, then its fubar .
It looks like you're right.
What is that electric pump for? sucks out of bottomof rad batt side , returns top MAF side?
Its too allow the climate to still warm cabin with engine off iirc.
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Craykent - send me a "PM" fella with you email address.
I've something of interest to you.
Cheers.
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Right gents,
Just back from a little holiday, and the first good test of our tractor since changing the thermostat/water pump/rad then system flush/antifreeze change.
Did just over 100 miles each way on really hot days with our 22ft caravan in tow, so the old girl was pulling almost her own weight for the entirety of both journeys in all types of road conditions, including some fierce and long inclines.
Result: The temp went up to 98 and no higher on the toughest climbs, and quickly dropped back to around the 92-mark on descending from summits.
Advice: Keep the lump revving, and don't let it labour. I found that you can comfortably drop from 5th to 4th at around 55mph.
In other words - drive it like you stole it! (Quoted by a fellow OOF chap).
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Right gents,
Just back from a little holiday, and the first good test of our tractor since changing the thermostat/water pump/rad then system flush/antifreeze change.
Did just over 100 miles each way on really hot days with our 22ft caravan in tow, so the old girl was pulling almost her own weight for the entirety of both journeys in all types of road conditions, including some fierce and long inclines.
Result: The temp went up to 98 and no higher on the toughest climbs, and quickly dropped back to around the 92-mark on descending from summits.
Advice: Keep the lump revving, and don't let it labour. I found that you can comfortably drop from 5th to 4th at around 55mph.
In other words - drive it like you stole it! (Quoted by a fellow OOF chap).
Good news :y
I guess given the extreme conditions, thats not bad, but still hotter than I would like to see (the Vx gauges lie, and 98C will be approaching 110C, which is the engine's stated max temp).
At next coolant change, might be worth using some forte cooling system flush to really clean it out :)