Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Albert1 on 17 August 2008, 21:50:40
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Going to be spray painting a door mirror cover, starting from bare plastic. Not exactly an expert on this, so any tips would be useful. Plan of action is:
1) Clean the plastic thoroughly
2) Spray with plastic-compatible primer
3) Rub down with wetted wet&dry
4) 2nd coat of primer
5) Rub down with wetted wet&dry
6) 1st layer of topcoat
7) Rub down with wetted wet&dry
8) 2nd layer of topcoat
9) Rub down with wetted wet&dry
10) Last layer of topcoat
11) [Do I rub this layer down with wetted wet&dry?]
12) 1st layer of lacquer
13) [Do I rub this layer down with wetted wet&dry?]
14) 2nd layer of lacquer
15) Allow plenty of time for lacquer to harden, then cut with T-Cut or similar.
Any comments/critiques?
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First u need to key the bare plastic then prime wet and dry it reprime top coat then lacquer
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best tip i can give on spray painting, pay a pro to do it. Or as i would do, have i go myself stand back, think it looks ok, quite proud of that, put it on the car... and think what a load of crap... THEN pay a pro to do it. Worth getting a price first at least?
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If you really have to do it yourself make sure the paint is the correct code.
Use plastic suitable primer,
suggest you flat off after your paint if its a base colour and then laquer
use enough laquer to make it shine,
keep the dust away!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
only spray in a warmed clean environment...
apart from that have fun
Im not a pro, but I repiant all my bikes in my shed and the finish i now get is good, mind i use a proper ( read expensive ) spray gun with the correct sized nozzles for each type of paint....
Stuart
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I don't think you will go far wrong on a small wing mirror.
Just like to add, no need to flat last coat of basecolour before you apply laquer. But apply plenty of coats of laquer and then very lightly de-nib with 1200 wet n' dry paper, then carefully bring up the shine with T-Cut.
Use 600 wet n' dry paper lubricated with fairy liquid and water for in between coats.
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Where are you based Albert? I could help as I am a painter in an accident repair centre. :y
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Where are you based Albert? I could help as I am a painter in an accident repair centre. :y
Couple of hundred miles south of you...lol. What do you think of my proposed worklist and the comments other peeps have made tho... my main concern is knowing which layers NOT to flatten with the wet & dry - if you can clarify that I'd be grateful.
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I'm also a paintsprayer and Panel Beater Albert ( well I was for 20 years) if you follow my advice you won't go far wrong.
Flat all your primer coats with 600 wet'n dry, apply your colour, flatting between coats if you really want it to look good and leave your last colour coat untouched ,leave for short time then apply your laquer flatting between coats if you wish, apply final coat of laquer and de-nib with 1200 with wet n' dry and polish,
it should look great!
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what do you look for when deciding how much paint to spray on? I tend to look for the little beads of paint to start to join up and form a smooth surface. Usually i tend to go a fraction to far and it runs, or at least a bit of ripple. I cant bring myself to stop spraying while it looks like little pin heads, it just looks like there is not enough paint on it. Whats the trick?
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Experience and a good quality spray gun at right air feed and paint mixed with correct thinners.
Applying too heavy coats is a common fault, remember the paint will continue to flow for a short while even after you have sprayed
If you are spraying small panels it is better to spray paint with a larger Thinner to Paint ratio and use more lighter coats.
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yeah,... A hell of a lot easier to make an arse of it than get it right then, no good using the gun i got with my compressor for £80 the lot? would you recommend cans to a novice like me, presumably yes. How much would you charge to spray a mirror cover? I got 2 battered one with my car.
Sorry, i have just completely hi jacked this thread.
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The paint in cans is mixed with a high % of thinners so plenty of thin coats is the best route.
If you have a small compresser and gun it is a much better option. Sounds like you are mixing your paint too thick for your equipment
You seem to understand the science of spraying paint, you might just have a heavy hand ...................Like all the greasy mechanics I ever met I guess.
Cost of labour charges I have no idea as I left the trade years ago.
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The paint in cans is mixed with a high % of thinners so plenty of thin coats is the best route.
If you have a small compresser and gun it is a much better option. Sounds like you are mixing your paint too thick for your equipment
You seem to understand the science of spraying paint, you might just have a heavy hand ...................Like all the greasy mechanics I ever met I guess.
Cost of labour charges I have no idea as I left the trade years ago.
Steady. Not sure about the mechanic bit. Maybe ill have another go then. Bike plastics probably the next time it spits me off. Thanks for tips. Did start with it too thick, got to start somewhere. Could never get the laquer very shiney either, but that was from a can iirc. Cheers
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Don't forget if it's a bare plastic cover you will need to use an adhesion promoter first or all your hard work will be in vain the next time the car gets up to 70 mph. Also I would use 800 wet n dry (just a personal preference) and if you really must flat the laquer between coats then only use 1500/2000 grade paper or you will see the marks!! And please DON'T flat the final colour coat or it will look a pigs ear with laquer on. :y
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And just one more point, Laquer for use with a Gun and Compressor comes ready for use, so when buying ask for RFU laquer, no mixing required.