Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: gwa on 01 September 2008, 21:35:56
-
I've been talking via PM's to TheBoy and he advised me to post the following:
Symptoms:
I have a 2001 Omega 2.6 CD V6 which appears to be misfiring. I currently work in Biscester [80 miles] (Nr Oxford).The journey to work this morning was OK, but I struggled home tonight with lots of misfiring. Its very intermittent though, but appears to come when the engine is hot.
Fault codes: (press both pedals, turn ign to II, and count flash sequence), and also check plug wells for oil
There was flashes in the following order:
1
7
10
10
Whilst driving the gearbox feels as sweet as nut, but when the problem happens it sounds like a misfire. Having said that, the gear stick goes mental with vibration but then it would appear the engine is as well [There is no oil in the wells]. Its intermittent though I leave home (P'boro) at 05:30 and all is really smooth and going well, by the time I get to Brackley [65 miles] the engine light may flash or even stay on and the 'misfire' starts to occur. Any ideas? What else can I check? Any help will be greatly appreciated. :'(
-
1700 is a code meaning gearbox not happy, as discussed. Probably unrelated to misfire.
2.6 ecu normally stores codes for misfires, which is why I'm at a bit of a loss on this one...
-
Does it misfire at a certain engine speed?
Just asking as the knackered crank sensor on my 2.5 produced a juddering above 5K rpm, in effect it was banging off the rev limiter and juddering like a good un but disappeared if I came off the gas.
Mine was flagging up an incorrect crank signal though.
-
Hi GWA welcome to the forum. Strange one this, engine light comes on but no fault code stored. hang on i thought the pedal trick only read the engine ecu? Hows it read a gearbox code?is that the right number? Or is that a non specific engine code? Bit beyond me by the sound of it. Hes driving past your Door J?
-
Does it misfire at a certain engine speed?
Just asking as the knackered crank sensor on my 2.5 produced a juddering above 5K rpm, in effect it was banging off the rev limiter and juddering like a good un but disappeared if I came off the gas.
Mine was flagging up an incorrect crank signal though.
Its not really associated to speed although when it happens if I hit the 'Sport' button to increase the revs it calms down a bit. Also, if I stop the car and switch off then restart everything appears to go back to normal, sometimes for a long time sometimes not. Then all of a sudden, one morning the engine light will be out and for a week or so it'll be fine. I think my Omega is female and suffering PMT. ;D
-
Hi GWA welcome to the forum. Strange one this, engine light comes on but no fault code stored. hang on i thought the pedal trick only read the engine ecu? Hows it read a gearbox code?is that the right number? Or is that a non specific engine code? Bit beyond me by the sound of it. Hes driving past your Door J?
Thanks for the welcome. Yes it is weird cos its intermittent. My local non-Vx garage put their diag box on it and there were loads of codes and he said take it to Vx, one was all about multiple misfires another about the ecu and the list went on. I'm wondering if I have mulitple issues that are causing confusion!! I need to save up and take it to Vx or buy a 12 bore and shoot the bl00dy thing :'(.
-
the 12 bore option would be cheaper and more usefull than taking it to a vx dealer. Although there are a couple good ones about. Maybe someone will know a good one out your way. But if your near brackkey or notingham at any point there are a couple of tech 2 members there. The Boy being one of them. Hes got to be your best bet tbh. Ecu plugs ok, no corrosion or damp in the plug?
The multiple miss fire code and others your local mech found, did he clear those ? And you did the pedal trick after the codes where cleared?
-
Flashing emissions light (one with the engine symbol) indicates a fault that could cause the cats to be damaged so if it flashes, ease off thwe throttle until it stops flashing.
I wonder if some stored codes are not being flashed out. I would get a cheapo Tech 2 and read all the codes. I'm sure it will have stored some codes. My guess is either crank sensor on its' way out or a faulty coil pack / plugs. (when were the plugs last changed?)
Gearbox fault is probably a consequence of the gearbox ecu not receiving a stable RPM signal from the engine ECU. That points to crank sensor again, IMHO but get the codes read properly or have another go at flashing them out and all will be revealed.
Kevin
-
Flashing emissions light (one with the engine symbol) indicates a fault that could cause the cats to be damaged so if it flashes, ease off thwe throttle until it stops flashing.
I wonder if some stored codes are not being flashed out. I would get a cheapo Tech 2 and read all the codes. I'm sure it will have stored some codes. My guess is either crank sensor on its' way out or a faulty coil pack / plugs. (when were the plugs last changed?)
Gearbox fault is probably a consequence of the gearbox ecu not receiving a stable RPM signal from the engine ECU. That points to crank sensor again, IMHO but get the codes read properly or have another go at flashing them out and all will be revealed.
Kevin
Thanks Kevin/chrisgixer. I'll get back onto TheBoy and see when its convenient to pass through. Really appreciate it, thanks again. Errrm, is that crank sensor an expensive job?
-
Flashing emissions light (one with the engine symbol) indicates a fault that could cause the cats to be damaged so if it flashes, ease off thwe throttle until it stops flashing.
I wonder if some stored codes are not being flashed out. I would get a cheapo Tech 2 and read all the codes. I'm sure it will have stored some codes. My guess is either crank sensor on its' way out or a faulty coil pack / plugs. (when were the plugs last changed?)
Gearbox fault is probably a consequence of the gearbox ecu not receiving a stable RPM signal from the engine ECU. That points to crank sensor again, IMHO but get the codes read properly or have another go at flashing them out and all will be revealed.
Kevin
Thanks Kevin/chrisgixer. I'll get back onto TheBoy and see when its convenient to pass through. Really appreciate it, thanks again. Errrm, is that crank sensor an expensive job?
not too bad, 2 sorts iirc 30 odd and 60 odd, or something like.easy diy they say. how long have you had this problem? In my experience, aftera week of general use they usually fail. which could happen while driving, cause engine to cut out and loosing power steering p ass brakes, not safe, others will advise but you "may" wish to change it anyway, at least if its not that you will have a spare. hope helps :-/
-
Flashing emissions light (one with the engine symbol) indicates a fault that could cause the cats to be damaged so if it flashes, ease off thwe throttle until it stops flashing.
I wonder if some stored codes are not being flashed out. I would get a cheapo Tech 2 and read all the codes. I'm sure it will have stored some codes. My guess is either crank sensor on its' way out or a faulty coil pack / plugs. (when were the plugs last changed?)
Gearbox fault is probably a consequence of the gearbox ecu not receiving a stable RPM signal from the engine ECU. That points to crank sensor again, IMHO but get the codes read properly or have another go at flashing them out and all will be revealed.
Kevin
Thanks Kevin/chrisgixer. I'll get back onto TheBoy and see when its convenient to pass through. Really appreciate it, thanks again. Errrm, is that crank sensor an expensive job?
not too bad, 2 sorts iirc 30 odd and 60 odd, or something like.easy diy they say. how long have you had this problem? In my experience, aftera week of general use they usually fail. which could happen while driving, cause engine to cut out and loosing power steering p ass brakes, not safe, others will advise but you "may" wish to change it anyway, at least if its not that you will have a spare. hope helps :-/
Ah, thats not going to break the bank... I've had the car for about a month but total driving has been about 500-600 miles as I tend to spread my mileage across 3 cars. I will however, get this little jobby done pronto. Thanks
-
Right, so there were more codes that the pedal trick flashed out?
Best pop it by one day, and we'll clear out everything, then you run for a couple of days, and we'll see whats come back.
-
Hmmm....I would be checking the condition of the coil packs and looking for cracks/corrosion around the iron cores.
-
Hmmm....I would be checking the condition of the coil packs and looking for cracks/corrosion around the iron cores.
Morning Mark, had presumed that would have been visible when he checked the wells for oil? any signs gwa? :-/
-
Right, so there were more codes that the pedal trick flashed out?
Best pop it by one day, and we'll clear out everything, then you run for a couple of days, and we'll see whats come back.
Thanks. I'm in the wifes Corsa today, but if you can do it tomorrow that would be great as I can give it a outing over the w/e. If not suggest another date and PM me your details.
What are iron cores?
-
Hmmm....I would be checking the condition of the coil packs and looking for cracks/corrosion around the iron cores.
Morning Mark, had presumed that would have been visible when he checked the wells for oil? any signs gwa? :-/
Nope; Wells were mostly dry [maybe just a smear] and everything looked OK. I'm not sure what iron cores are though....
-
Hmmm....I would be checking the condition of the coil packs and looking for cracks/corrosion around the iron cores.
Morning Mark, had presumed that would have been visible when he checked the wells for oil? any signs gwa? :-/
Nope; Wells were mostly dry [maybe just a smear] and everything looked OK. I'm not sure what iron cores are though....
Sorry, poor English in my post. I was refering to the coil packs, "any signs"of cracks or damage on the coil packs. The 3 plug unit on each bank of cylinders you have to take out to look in the plug wells. Any cracks or damage on the coil pack may well cause a missfire. If you have to take them out again, easy way is to find 2 suitable bolt to screw into the brass fixing hole and pull on the bolts instead of leavering out from the edge and risking any possible damage.
-
Hmmm....I would be checking the condition of the coil packs and looking for cracks/corrosion around the iron cores.
Morning Mark, had presumed that would have been visible when he checked the wells for oil? any signs gwa? :-/
Nope; Wells were mostly dry [maybe just a smear] and everything looked OK. I'm not sure what iron cores are though....
Sorry, poor English in my post. I was refering to the coil packs, "any signs"of cracks or damage on the coil packs. The 3 plug unit on each bank of cylinders you have to take out to look in the plug wells. Any cracks or damage on the coil pack may well cause a missfire. If you have to take them out again, easy way is to find 2 suitable bolt to screw into the brass fixing hole and pull on the bolts instead of leavering out from the edge and risking any possible damage.
Ah, thanks for the explanation, when I don't understand something it usually costs a lot!! Anyway, my local garage blokey looked and said they were OK but maybe starting to 'break down'. So I think the the actions will be:
1 Ask TheBoy to clear out all the codes
2 Run it for some days and see what happens
3 Order up the crank sensor & coil packs
4 Find someone sensible to fit them
5 React to whatever is found from 1 & 2
Any other suggestions welcome. Cheers
-
may be c sensor, may be coil packs, may be a number of things. You need to get a diagnosis first as you say. THEN go and spend your money. I only suggested blindly buying a crank sensor for the safety issue. It can be quite expensive throwing parts at a car with out being certain that will cure it.
Hopefuly The Boy will have time to sort you out. Hes a very busy guy, how he does what he does is beyond me.
It is the lack of a missfire code in the pedal test the is baffling most of us. This suggests the coil packs are ok. The symptoms tho, suggest other wise. Hence the need for tech 2 diagnostic. At least thats how i understand it anyway. Maybe do the pedal trick again and make sure the sequence runs its full course. That code makes no sense to me. Anyone?
-
may be c sensor, may be coil packs, may be a number of things. You need to get a diagnosis first as you say. THEN go and spend your money. I only suggested blindly buying a crank sensor for the safety issue. It can be quite expensive throwing parts at a car with out being certain that will cure it.
Hopefuly The Boy will have time to sort you out. Hes a very busy guy, how he does what he does is beyond me.
It is the lack of a missfire code in the pedal test the is baffling most of us. This suggests the coil packs are ok. The symptoms tho, suggest other wise. Hence the need for tech 2 diagnostic. At least thats how i understand it anyway. Maybe do the pedal trick again and make sure the sequence runs its full course. That code makes no sense to me. Anyone?
OK, ta. I understand. I'll take it out tonight for a 10mile run and read codes when I get home, then post them.
So for a 'thicky' will these codes get overwritten by a new fault when it occurs and the last code I posted up was the last fault registered?[hope that sounds right].
-
you aint a thicky make. We all started some where. You should get, if more than one code, a list of numbers. Flashed in a sequence, 4 numbers, gap, 4 numbers gap, and so on. Have a look at the video in the paper clip test guide(also includes the pedal trick) in the maintenance section. When the fault occured is not covered. Its either there or it isnt.
See how you go.