Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: nick v6 on 11 September 2008, 14:51:12
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ive put a passenger front bottom arm on the omega and got it tracked up
it drives straight but when you press the brake
it seems to brake square then start to pull to the left
could it be needing a bottom arm on the drivers side :- :-/
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Always replace wishbones in pairs of the same make...
From experience, the term "tracked up" fills me with horror - when you are sure the components are sound, get the geometry set by Wheels in motion - I'm going there tomorrow.
They can't be beaten on cost or service.
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ill get another wishbone and fit it to the other side
if you can give me the details of wheels in motion that will be great
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ill get another wishbone and fit it to the other side
if you can give me the details of wheels in motion that will be great
Make sure it is of the same make....
Mr Sassanach bought one with different wishbones on each side, it was all over the place...
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ill go to the same place i got the other 1
i get trade discount and sometimes a little extra off ;D
ill get that sorted and ill give you a shout and let you know how i get on
:y
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Just to echo James' comments... ALL suspension parts should really be replaced in pairs.
And to answer your question... When I did mine the N/S one wasn't too bad but the O/S was completely shot... Mine was diving to the left under braking! All I've got to do now is get the trip to WIM sorted, now I've got the LPG finished as I didn't see any point in having it set up before I changed the weight in the boot!
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when i checked mine for the mot
the one bush in the bottom arm had gone and the ball joint had had it
so i replaced the bottom arm on the near side
when i jacked the drivers side to check that it seemed fine so i left it
should name and shame the 1 i brought it off as he said he changed it all and clearly had not >:(
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when i checked mine for the mot
the one bush in the bottom arm had gone and the ball joint had had it
so i replaced the bottom arm on the near side
when i jacked the drivers side to check that it seemed fine so i left it
should name and shame the 1 i brought it off as he said he changed it all and clearly had not >:(
Not necessarily... I changed some on an Orion with cheap ones as that was all that funds allowed... 11 months later it was even worse than the one I took off originally!! If cheap parts are used than it's not unheard of for them to fail very quickly! :o :o
Incidentally I don't know who you bought it off but just thought I'd let you know that he may not have been fibbing!! ::) ::)
Good news is that you've done the harder side so it'll be easy this time :y :y
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true true near side is always the harder side
(unless your left handed) ;D so ive been told
onlytook about 20 mins to do the near side should be about the same for the other
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true true near side is always the harder side
(unless your left handed) ;D so ive been told
onlytook about 20 mins to do the near side should be about the same for the other
Bloody hell... That's quick!!! :o :o :o
Was that start to finish (floor to floor) or just to change the bone?
I'm pretty good at them and the N/S normally takes me around 40 mins start to finish if all goes well!!!
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from when the wheel was off
only takes a few mins to jack the car up and take a wheel off
was straight forward only had a bit of truble with the bolt where the ball joint joins the hub
part from that straight forward
alot easier than a mondeo bottom arm when you have to cut the bolt cause of the gearbox getting in the way
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should name and shame the 1 i brought it off as he said he changed it all and clearly had not >:(
Certainly not. It's a case of buyer beware - you should have picked these faults up before handing over the cash, I'm afraid.
The advert for this car said the seller had replaced the parts within the last 12 months so there is every chance they have become worn in this time - especially if not torqued on the ground!!
(Did you torque your lower arms with the wheels on the floor?)
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yes and checked them again after i gave the car a run round the block a few times to make sure nothin came loose
better safe than sorry when i got 3 kids in the back on a regular basis
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should name and shame the 1 i brought it off as he said he changed it all and clearly had not >:(
Certainly not. It's a case of buyer beware - you should have picked these faults up before handing over the cash, I'm afraid.
The advert for this car said the seller had replaced the parts within the last 12 months so there is every chance they have become worn in this time - especially if not torqued on the ground!!
(Did you torque your lower arms with the wheels on the floor?)
How do you do that? I struggled to get any swing on the torque wrench at all with the car on the ground. Ended up putting a pile of planks under the front wheel to give a few more inches clearance. Still next to impossible with the angle tightening stages.
I guess have done the initial torque, it is ok to put it up on stands again to do the angle bit..
Interested to confirm though :y
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set of car ramps
drive car onto them and a bit of fiddleing about and you can get a bit of a swing on the bolts except the bolt on the ball joint
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from when the wheel was off
only takes a few mins to jack the car up and take a wheel off
was straight forward only had a bit of truble with the bolt where the ball joint joins the hub
part from that straight forward
alot easier than a mondeo bottom arm when you have to cut the bolt cause of the gearbox getting in the way
Aint that the truth!!!
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Ian - it's acceptable to do the tightening on ramps - as long as the weight is on the wheels, it doesn't matter :y
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Thanks James.
I had assumed so, but the advice is always to tighten them on the ground, so worth checking. I guess the loading shouldn't be much different.
With the angle tightening, do you have to wait between stages?
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just put a wishbone on the drivers side now and got the car stering all set up
drives straight and brakes square :y
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Thanks James.
I had assumed so, but the advice is always to tighten them on the ground, so worth checking. I guess the loading shouldn't be much different.
With the angle tightening, do you have to wait between stages?
120nm, and a big grunt on the breaker bar ;)
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according to the book its 120nm then 30 degrees , then 15.
do you just pause momentarily between the angles or wait some time?
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according to the book its 120nm then 30 degrees , then 15.
do you just pause momentarily between the angles or wait some time?
must say im a bit bemused by the angle tighten thing, why not just do it up to the torque setting arrived at after the angle tightening is done? Whats the purpose of the angle tightening?
Have seen Mark dtm talk about "crushing" the sub frame bracket onto the spacer in the bush. Hence the high torque setting but still dont see the purpose of angle tightening.
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according to the book its 120nm then 30 degrees , then 15.
do you just pause momentarily between the angles or wait some time?
must say im a bit bemused by the angle tighten thing, why not just do it up to the torque setting arrived at after the angle tightening is done? Whats the purpose of the angle tightening?
Have seen Mark dtm talk about "crushing" the sub frame bracket onto the spacer in the bush. Hence the high torque setting but still dont see the purpose of angle tightening.
I think it is something to do with stressing the bolt, but not sure ..and if so, does suggest you should use a new one.. ::))