Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: chrisdb on 24 September 2008, 11:06:51
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I noticed in the Haynes manual that the wheel bolt torque is 110 Nm - is this correct? It seems very high... Is there a way to gauge this without a torque wrench as mine only go up to 60 Nm.
Cheers
Chris
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hi mine bolts is done at 140 nm
one of my friend has done at 80 and hi nearly loos his wheel
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110NM is the recommended figure for cars.
This is essential because of two reasons:
1. Alloys can take structural damage if the bolts are fixed with too much torque as aluminium is quite sensitive material.
2. Think of changing one of the wheels on the motorway with just the tools that have been supplied with the car! This can give you quite a headache (or even worth pain when you didn't jump accurate enough on to the wrench!) No to forget the misses trying to handle that job!
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Thanks! I'mm off to buy another torque wrench that goes that high - just after I've tightened the bolts though - I'm pretty certain they are only at about 50Nm at the moment!!!!
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I know it's probably wrong but i tighten mine up as tight as they will sensibly go with a spider wrench. Always cone undone with some effort and never had a loose wheel yet
(fingers crossed)
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I know it's probably wrong but i tighten mine up as tight as they will sensibly go with a spider wrench. Always cone undone with some effort and never had a loose wheel yet
(fingers crossed)
Likewise ! :y
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i have just discussed this very subject with my tire man, he says 110nm is the norm with the exception of some other (german) car makers. He torques them with a wrench and does not use a windy gun as that could be any old setting. Do them up in opposing order and dont use grease as this will allow the bolt to be far tighter for the same torque setting. Although a dab of copper slip is ok. Sounds about right to me.
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Correct 110nm according to my Haynes manual also. I keep a half inch drive 400mm to 600m extending wrecking bar in the boot for wheel changes (had to buy one for doing my wishbones). Just the thought of trying with the standard kit makes my nuckles bleed. Of course I would torque up correctly once I got the opportunity.
The Motor Industry Research Association (MIRA) did a full in depth report on greasing wheel nuts many years ago following a spate of lorry wheels coming off and killing pedestrians. If I remember correctly they concluded that greasing or not made no difference to the likelyhood of a nut coming loose provided it was torqued up correctly (although is was so long ago alloys probably didn't exist then!!).
So as mentioned before a dab of copper slip on the bolt/wheel interface does no harm and stops any corrosion - as does a smear on the inner face of the wheel where it mates on the hub, to stop the alloys reacting to the steel/cast iron and melding/sticking on.
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Having experienced the aftermath of wheelbolts too loose, and too tight (sheared the bolts in a corner, wheel collapsed under the van), I would recommend using a torque wrench to set to recommended setting of 110NM
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Having experienced the aftermath of wheelbolts too loose, and too tight (sheared the bolts in a corner, wheel collapsed under the van), I would recommend using a torque wrench to set to recommended setting of 110NM
I agree! I ordered one today. I recently bought a nice Sykes Picavant one but it only goes up to 80Nm, but I've bout a cheap one now that goes up to 210...