Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: feeutfo on 10 October 2008, 17:44:25
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got a locking kit from ians and a 30mil cranked ring spanner. Got the cam belt kit and, as ians rightly says, the bottom pulley is not adjustable!
What happens if i put it all back together and the cam wheels 4 and then 3 need adjusting? 2 and 1 no problem i can see how all that should work, once 4and3 are correct.
I presume the thinking is that once all is locked and in the correct position, and the correct belt fitted, then there is no need to adjust the bottom guide as it all MUST be in the correct position? Is this correct...?
I am concerned that when we come to tension the belt finally. That it will need adjustment on 4 and 3, of which there would appear to be none.
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The position of the bottom one is set, it won't need any adjusting. Then just adjust banks 1 and 2 :y
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bloody hell that was quick, 1minute! Thats what i was hoping you would say, thankyou james, i love you. :-*
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.... i love you. :-*
Steady!!! ;D ;D ;D
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Does that mean you have to put the belt on in an anticlockwise direction from crank pulley through the bottom roller and up to 3/4 - to ensure no slack on the non-adjustable side?
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Does that mean you have to put the belt on in an anticlockwise direction from crank pulley through the bottom roller and up to 3/4 - to ensure no slack on the non-adjustable side?
Yes, well thats my plan anyway. Only one adjustable roller, at the top, to pull 2 and then 1 into line. 4and3 are still cock on to the marks. 2 and 1 are half a tooth out (late). Begs the question why not make top roller non adjustable too? I suppose the chances of the belt running that distance and still being spot on are slim after a couple of thousand miles? But then whos going to check before its due? I suppose i might now. The fact the left bank is late would maybe imply wear on the roller?...or poorly adjusted to start with, full vx dealer history by the way.
Apologies for my earlier emotional outburst, i had a bit of a panic, followed by much... er... relief, things are looking simpler than i had thought.
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watch the DVD again Chris ;) :y
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It's easier if you turn the crank back from TDC by about a tooth (10 degrees officially, I think) to give you some slack on the right hand belt run up to cams 3 and 4 then feed the belt round the crank pulley, over the cam pulleys and round to the tensioner. Then turn the crank back to tdc to give you enough slack to go over the tensioner and slip the belt on.
.. and if you've got a VX belt with no markings on it's a PITA because you'll find it's a tooth out and you have to start again. >:(
Kevin
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got this far,cam wheels and crank locked in position ready to take old belt off in the morning, impressed with kit so far.
see the bits of belt on the w pump, normal?
(http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p326/chrisgixer/10102008226.jpg)
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ps also busted cable tray on the left, think maybe its snapped an aux belt in the past. Guess which bolt hole had a sheared bolt in it? yep, the one the crank tool bolts into.(http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p326/chrisgixer/10102008221.jpg)
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(http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p326/chrisgixer/10102008224.jpg)
also does the belt look like its had something rubbing on it?
looking at the top run. just noticed looking at pics, :-/
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Does that mean you have to put the belt on in an anticlockwise direction from crank pulley through the bottom roller and up to 3/4 - to ensure no slack on the non-adjustable side?
Yes, well thats my plan anyway. Only one adjustable roller, at the top, to pull 2 and then 1 into line. 4and3 are still cock on to the marks. 2 and 1 are half a tooth out (late).
So is that one of the key difference between fitting belt to a facelift v earlier? Belt is fitted anti-clockwise due to the none adjustable roller?
I've watched the DVD and am planning to tackle mine in a week or so. Any other differences from the DVD for facelift's ?
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Nick, I think its a difference of 3.2/2.6's over 3.0/2.5 - but as yours is a 2.6 I think you will find that yours is the non adjustable type.
Make sure you have the correct kit for your engine number.
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Nick, I think its a difference of 3.2/2.6's over 3.0/2.5 - but as yours is a 2.6 I think you will find that yours is the non adjustable type.
Make sure you have the correct kit for your engine number.
this link might help, it did me, :y
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1223578419
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right, just to re assure, this was in the end, a doddle...All things being relative of course. if youve never done a cam belt before ( i have) then you may not think the same way.
The locking kit(Thanks again Ians) takes all the stress out of the job( i did not have a Locking kit when i did my 2.5 and did not know any better,in my pre forum days)
The non adjutable bottom tensioner is, i found, alot easier than the 2.5 i had previosly. It cant be fitted incorrectly, my only concerne was fitting the belt to toothed wheels locked into a tensioned position. no need to worry, i put the belt onto cam wheels 3 4 down onto the bottom guide pulley and then onto the crank then up onto the tensioner to hold it, then feeling the belt on the crank noticeing that the belt is not sitting in the teeth correctly, i then pulled the belt along its run, clokwise in my case, by grabbing the belt by hand left of the tensioner and leaning/pushing down on it(ie if the belt slipped, which it wouldnt, i would have punched the alternator) the belt litteraly just popped on to the teeth on the crank wheel. then just fit the rest of the belt and adjust cams 1 2 to take out the slack, tension, do a rev or 2 to check and go from there.
With belt fitted i found 1 and 2 where about 2 mill out, adjusted checked all spot on but more importantly 3 and 4 where perfectly in line from the off, could not fault it.
So to sum up, its easier, in my experience...
A. with the locking kit, obviusly.
B with a non adjustable bottom tensioner.
In the end the main agro was taking the Plenum and intakes off to get at it all, short plenum stays on.
i can see why they have cam belt parties now, its a pleasure to do with a locking kit.
Thankyou all for your help.the car now runs noticeably smoother and with better tick over. Special mentions to IANS, JAMES V6 CDX, ALEXANDJEN and ANDYB :y :y :y :y :y :y :y
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watch the DVD again Chris ;) :y
did not have the dvd Pete :y
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just a quicky, where abouts is the engine number on the x25 lump?
need to check it to get right cam belt kit
thanks
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just a quicky, where abouts is the engine number on the x25 lump?
need to check it to get right cam belt kit
thanks
Your V5C is easier & cleaner, assuming of course it's still on its original engine. :y
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there is an angled cast flat piece between the oil filter/crank sensor, and gear box. Number/gear box type on there. As Andy says tho. Log book/v5 is easier.
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thanks for the replies,
i'd just bought the car so havnt got logbook back from dvla (forgot to check it before it got sent off)
i changed my belt the other day, gonna have it back off and see if i can get the timing better... dont worry i'v not run it, it just got really late so couldnt be arsed to take it back off again...
when your working clockwise on the 2.5 with adjustable lower idler it always seems a tooth out/ not pick up on cam 4 and is half a tooth out- i spent about half an hour trying to move it over half a tooth with the cam locks on lol! also is it me or do you not really need the cam lock on 3 and 4 if you get it onto the marks (cam 4 turns slightly by hand for maybe 10 degrees clockwise/5 anticlockwise)
going to have another go in the morning anyway- want to drive my toy :P
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It's easier if you turn the crank back from TDC by about a tooth (10 degrees officially, I think) to give you some slack on the right hand belt run up to cams 3 and 4 then feed the belt round the crank pulley, over the cam pulleys and round to the tensioner. Then turn the crank back to tdc to give you enough slack to go over the tensioner and slip the belt on.
.. and if you've got a VX belt with no markings on it's a PITA because you'll find it's a tooth out and you have to start again. >:(
Kevin
I think this is what Kevin is refering to above, on 1st page of this thread, basically undo the crank lock tool and winde it back half a tooth.
Ive not had the issue on this car or my previous 2.5, so cant really comment to much.
I dont think i would be taking the cam locking tool out though, i never saw the need to do that. Be aware there are other marks on the cam wheels, i believe, and if the bugger slips/pings round youll need to be sure you have the correct mark again.
I presume the belt is coming up loose, that is to say, when wound on a revolution, and the crank tool back in the correct position, that cams 3/4 are late by half or a whole a tooth?...the bottom guide wheel is adjustable on your 2.5?, so obvious question, is it slack enough to apply the belt in a tighter position to bring the adjustment in range?