Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Carlton on 05 January 2009, 18:04:36
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Hi All
Recently registered and have been looking through some of the guidelines.
There seem's to be alot of things to consider. I've seen the following Omega forsale:
2000 'X' reg 2.6 V6 CD auto saloon 66K on the clock for £1,795.
Do you consider this a resonable price and what other checks should I make on the vehicle ie head gasket, timing belts etc etc.
Any help and advice greatly appreciated!!!!
::)
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In this market a grand tops. Parker`s only go to just over £1200 on the forecourt :y
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Hi All
Recently registered and have been looking through some of the guidelines.
There seem's to be alot of things to consider. I've seen the following Omega forsale:
2000 'X' reg 2.6 V6 CD auto saloon 66K on the clock for £1,795.
Do you consider this a resonable price and what other checks should I make on the vehicle ie head gasket, timing belts etc etc.
Any help and advice greatly appreciated!!!!
::)
To be honest aint very good with the prices....
But things to look for are, when was the Cambelt & Tensioners last changed? they need to be done every 40,000 miles or 4 years whichever comes first. When you go for a ride in it make sure you cant smell burning oil. Look at the front tyre wear, look on the inside edge..if worn maybe wishbones or cambers :y
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Quite a lot of cash, but if (and its a big if) the mileage is genuine...
Cambelt is 40k/4yrs, no excpetions, and must be full kit.
Front Wishbone bushes and steering idler tend to go at 100k
Cam cover gaskets - check for oil in plug wells
Excessive inner shoulder wear on front tyres - tracking won't cure, needs full geometry check
Oil in coolant - oil cooler failure. If driven for a while in this condition, it may get prone to overheating.
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As to mileage - Omega does wear incredibly well, particularly prefaclifts, so many naughty traders turn back the clocks. With 1 in 4 cars on the road have incorrect mileages apparently, you can bet many, many Omegas have been doctored. For that money, it should have perfect service history - check the mileages add up
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I know this is probably the million dollar question is there away I can verify the mileage. It's not being sold by a Vauxhall dealer but an independent Audi/VW centre??
:-[
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I know this is probably the million dollar question is there away I can verify the mileage. It's not being sold by a Vauxhall dealer but an independent Audi/VW centre??
:-[
Difficult, as Omega wears so well. Service History should be a clue though, so go over that with a fine toothcomb.
At 66k, absolutely no pedal wear, no wear marks at all on wheel, drivers seat still as firm as passenger seat. Number of tiny chips in windscreen/headlights can also give away a potentially 'well used' car..
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If facelift, wear on inside drivers door handle, and on climate buttons isn't a good sign, may be a little at 66k though...
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Thanks I'll give it good going over tomorrow then
;D
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make sure all the important dash lights come on with ignition on. Esp, abs/traction controle and engine management lights, and that they all go out when engine started after 5/10 second or so, some people take the bulbs out of the dash to hide issues such as failed abs ecu(light stays on until rectified) tow bar and i think child seat lights dont have bulbs fitted afaik so dont worry about them.
Check scuttle drain by pollen filter for water which can enter the cabin if left.
Pull a plug lead, or run fingers along cam cover to head seal for oil leaks from cam covers, caused by blocked breathers or old seals. No real deal breakers really, as they are fairly easy to sort, but for that money on a CD i guess it really should be mint/tip top. So for me if he wont drop the price to start with and still more if you find any issues, i might leave it for at least a CDX or an elite. Depends on condition and how much you want it, :y
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make sure all the important dash lights come on with ignition on. Esp, abs/traction controle and engine management lights, and that they all go out when engine started after 5/10 second or so, some people take the bulbs out of the dash to hide issues such as failed abs ecu(light stays on until rectified) tow bar and i think child seat lights dont have bulbs fitted afaik so dont worry about them.
Check scuttle drain by pollen filter for water which can enter the cabin if left.
Pull a plug lead, or run fingers along cam cover to head seal for oil leaks from cam covers, caused by blocked breathers or old seals. No real deal breakers really, as they are fairly easy to sort, but for that money on a CD i guess it really should be mint/tip top. So for me if he wont drop the price to start with and still more if you find any issues, i might leave it for at least a CDX or an elite. Depends on condition and how much you want it, :y
It's 2.6! ;) Coil pack per bank of 3 :y
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Sorry Andy B 'Coil Pack per bank of 3???? whats that
::)
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Sorry Andy B 'Coil Pack per bank of 3???? whats that
::)
You don't have any HT leads. There's a coil pack that sits on top on each bank of cylinders 1, 3 & 5 and 2, 4 & 6. I guess that you had a Carlton before this Omega. It had a dizzy/distributor with a HT lead from it to each plug. The coil packs are a modern distributor-less replacement for the dizzy & HT leads.
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Thanks Andy B. Actualy I have an MGTF at the mo
Cheers
:)
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Personally I think the money's too steep... It's a buyers market at the moment and you should be getting a mint Elite for that money (actually less than).
Just my opinion... At the end of the day the car is worth whatever you're willing to pay for it :y :y :y
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Bought my X plate CDX for £700 knocked down from a reasonable £1000 (due to oil cooler needing replacing) the price on that seems pretty steep to me!