Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Miggy24 on 08 January 2009, 15:03:06
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Hi all just brought a towbar off chris for my estate.How easy is it to fit one.Do the estates have the dimples where the bolts go in the floor like the saloons.Any help would be great :y
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yep all dimples there to drill :y might have to drop exhaust :(
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As Markey says, main issue is trying to get the nuts onto the back 2 or 3 of the 4 bolts that go through the floor passengers side...the exhaust backbox and heatshields rather get in the way...
Pretty sure I used a 10mm drill bit to drill the holes :y
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heatshields rather get in the way...
And I bet the bolts holding the heatshield shear off.....
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Doesnt sound like a hard job to do.What about the wiring do i have to wire it up to the lights or is there a block connetter on the loom to wire it too
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as markey mark and mutantcav say the backbox and heatshields make an otherwise easy job a real pain in the ass, the drilling of the holes and wiring is a piece of cake though
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Doesnt sound like a hard job to do.What about the wiring do i have to wire it up to the lights or is there a block connetter on the loom to wire it too
there is a block connector on the car however the adaptor loom costs a fortune from vx,
if you look at connector you will see there is a small plugin it with one wire looping backinto the connector, this must stay plugged in if not using proper loom from vx as without it the cars rear fogs will not work :y
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Remove the rear box rubber hangerS and remove the 10mm nuts holding the heat sheild to the car and remove.
Then remove the carpet trim each side of the spare wheel cover and you will see the dimples in the floor. drill the dimples to allow the spacers to be fitted into the chassis rails and fit the tow bar frame to the under side of the car and pass the bolts through the spacers and tighten Depending on the spec of the car you may have the tow plug in the left side cubby hole near the rear lights. if not you will have to splice into the loom and make your connections there.
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Remove the rear box rubber hangerS and remove the 10mm nuts holding the heat sheild to the car and remove.
Then remove the carpet trim each side of the spare wheel cover and you will see the dimples in the floor. drill the dimples to allow the spacers to be fitted into the chassis rails and fit the tow bar frame to the under side of the car and pass the bolts through the spacers and tighten Depending on the spec of the car you may have the tow plug in the left side cubby hole near the rear lights. if not you will have to splice into the loom and make your connections there.
mine is an elite and mine was in the spare wheel well right next to the jack :y
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Mine is a tourer and is based on a gls and did not have the plug, also when i was thinking of fitting the tow bar , vx told me that if i wanted the loom to go to the plug that i did not have i would be unlucky as it was no longer avalible from vx. ::)
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Ok guys thats for the help.Just need to wait for the towbar to turn up then i`ll prob start fitting it :y
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On the estate the trailer connector is inside of the rear panel, left of centre.
If you have bulb failure monitoring (all but GLS have it I think) then you should use a 'bypass relay' to connect the wiring, the lights will work without but you might overload the bulb monitor pcb in the passenger footwell.
If you are planning to tow a caravan and want to run the 'fridge on the move or recharge the 'van battery then I would run a new feed all the way from the battery (fused at the battery end please). There is an ignition-live feed in the trailer connector but its not thick enough to run a fridge...use it to power the bypass relay. (need to fit the fuse in the fuse box)
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You only drill the holes in the boot floor skin....the chassis rails have holes in already. If you know the make of the towbar then most manufacturers have the fitting instructions on-line.
With the reinforcing plates fitted to the boot floor the carpet wont lay flat and tends to interfere with the lift-up section. Just cut away some of the carpet underlay carefully and the carpet will lay flat.
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If you have bulb failure monitoring (all but GLS have it I think) then you should use a 'bypass relay' to connect the wiring, the lights will work without but you might overload the bulb monitor pcb in the passenger footwell.
You don't need a by-pass relay. :y My trailer lights are connected directly to the Vx trailer socket loom.
If you are planning to tow a caravan and want to run the 'fridge on the move or recharge the 'van battery then I would run a new feed all the way from the battery (fused at the battery end please). There is an ignition-live feed in the trailer connector but its not thick enough to run a fridge...use it to power the bypass relay. (need to fit the fuse in the fuse box)
There is already a permanent live within the trailer loom socket intended for caravan battery charging & fridge.
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If you have bulb failure monitoring (all but GLS have it I think) then you should use a 'bypass relay' to connect the wiring, the lights will work without but you might overload the bulb monitor pcb in the passenger footwell.
You don't need a by-pass relay. :y My trailer lights are connected directly to the Vx trailer socket loom.
You might well be OK but the Vx supplied and very expensive trailer wiring kit includes bypass relays. My 'van has 14 bulbs on the side light circuit (low level and high level lamps, side markers rear high level etc) plus two brake bulbs and two indicator bulbs per side. The bulb failure module cannot carry this load.
If you are planning to tow a caravan and want to run the 'fridge on the move or recharge the 'van battery then I would run a new feed all the way from the battery (fused at the battery end please). There is an ignition-live feed in the trailer connector but its not thick enough to run a fridge...use it to power the bypass relay. (need to fit the fuse in the fuse box)
There is already a permanent live within the trailer loom socket intended for caravan battery charging & fridge.
The live feed is 2.5mm and is intended to supply the Vx bypass relays. It might be OK on your fridge but most 'fridges want 15A and a flat 'van battery can draw another 15 - 20A.
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If you have bulb failure monitoring (all but GLS have it I think) then you should use a 'bypass relay' to connect the wiring, the lights will work without but you might overload the bulb monitor pcb in the passenger footwell.
You don't need a by-pass relay. :y My trailer lights are connected directly to the Vx trailer socket loom.
You might well be OK but the Vx supplied and very expensive trailer wiring kit includes bypass relays. My 'van has 14 bulbs on the side light circuit (low level and high level lamps, side markers rear high level etc) plus two brake bulbs and two indicator bulbs per side. The bulb failure module cannot carry this load.
If you are planning to tow a caravan and want to run the 'fridge on the move or recharge the 'van battery then I would run a new feed all the way from the battery (fused at the battery end please). There is an ignition-live feed in the trailer connector but its not thick enough to run a fridge...use it to power the bypass relay. (need to fit the fuse in the fuse box)
There is already a permanent live within the trailer loom socket intended for caravan battery charging & fridge.
The live feed is 2.5mm and is intended to supply the Vx bypass relays. It might be OK on your fridge but most 'fridges want 15A and a flat 'van battery can draw another 15 - 20A.
The red cable in the socket is fed directly from the fusebox and is labelled as 'caravan'
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Saw this on ebay is this the block conneter that i need to fit to the loom
http://search.stores.ebay.co.uk/New-Auto-Car-Parts-and-Accessories_TOWBAR-ELECTRICS_W0QQfciZQ2d1QQfclZ4QQfsnZNewQ20AutoQ20CarQ20PartsQ20andQ20AccessoriesQQfsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQfsubZ15093705QQsaselZ642857815QQsofpZ0
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The part number is familiar but the images aren't right for my car. My facelift has a round towbar connector.
The full genuine kit (that doesn't exist anymore) includes a bulb for the dash.
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Got the towbar this morning so now all i need to do is fit it.Might give it a lick of paint first tho just to make it look better.Any way some star drive shaped bolts come with it what are they for and also i got twin plugs for the elec one with a white cover on and one with a black cover on.What are the diffence with the white and the black
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Got the towbar this morning so now all i need to do is fit it.Might give it a lick of paint first tho just to make it look better.Any way some star drive shaped bolts come with it what are they for and also i got twin plugs for the elec one with a white cover on and one with a black cover on.What are the diffence with the white and the black
Black is the 12N for the road legal lights ie stop, tail, turn & rear fog.
White is 12S for caravan stuff ie fridge, battery charging & reverse lights.
http://www.eriba-amiga.co.uk/otr_towbar.html
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Ok thanks for that.I think i read on hear somewhere that i would need a 22mm drill bit for the bolts am i right.Also for the elec box with the white/grey cover do i wire it to the loom in the boot or do i need to wire it to the battery
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Ok thanks for that.I think i read on hear somewhere that i would need a 22mm drill bit for the bolts am i right.Also for the elec box with the white/grey cover do i wire it to the loom in the boot or do i need to wire it to the battery
22mm???? :o The bolts that hold a flanged ball on are only M16 I can't remember off the top of my head but I think they're all M10 (19mm spanner) bolts.
Are you wiring it for a caravan? You should be able to find a thickish red cable in with the plug that contains all the lighting already in the boot area - not really sure where it is in an estate - which will be live when you put the fuse in up front. You'll also need a split cahrge relay.
You'll be able to find loads of info on the forum e wiring for a towbar.
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Yes its for a caravan/trailer.So all of it can be wired in from the boot.What is a split charger
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Yes its for a caravan/trailer.So all of it can be wired in from the boot.What is a split charger
It's a relay that connects your car battery & caravan battery together to charge it on the move. However, you only want them connected when your engine is running, so you either energise it from a take off from the alternator, or, the usual way to do it these days is to use a Smartcom(??) relay. Electrickery in it can sense whether your engine is runnning by the voltage at it, and so switches only when your engine is running. Its advantage is, you don't need to drag a cable the length of your car. Be aware though that later caravans are wired slightly different from older vans ....... can't remember differences though. :-/ Google will know though. ;)
It's also for your caravan fridge. You only want your fridge trying to draw current when your engine is running ... 8-10amps rings a bell ..... so would flatten your car battery in no time if they were directly connected.
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Ok well the wires on the towbar i got looks like its had better days so iv been looking on ebay for some new twin elec but not sure what kit i need.Can anyone help me
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Would this one be any good
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/12NS-Double-Twin-Towing-Electrics-Kit-FREE-P-P_W0QQitemZ120351897723QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item120351897723&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1301%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318
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Would this one be any good
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/12NS-Double-Twin-Towing-Electrics-Kit-FREE-P-P_W0QQitemZ120351897723QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item120351897723&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1301%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318
It'd be a lot easier to wire up a voltage sensing relay ..... and throw away the scotchlock connectors.
I bought mine from a local motorfactors ..... I'll look what mak when I get home tonight, but you should easily be able to buy one locally to you, as said, saves dragging a cable back through the car from the alternator.
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The holes that you drill inside the car are for the spacers to be fitted into the chassis rails, IF YOU DO NOT FIT THE SPACERS YOU WILL SQUASH THE FLOOR AND CHASSIS WHEN YOU TIGHTEN THE BOLTS.
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Yeh i only have one spacer that came with the towbar so does anyone know where i can get some from
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I would go to the person that sold you the tow bar and ask for the correct spacers. As far as i can remember there are four spacers 2 on each side but they are different in lengths to fit the chassis.
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I briught it from MutantCav on the forum
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Well iv sent MutantCav a pm and still havent heard from him and he is online so i dont know whats going on.All i know is i have a peice of metal just sitting there as i cant fit it without spacers >:( >:( >:(
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Replied to pm's :) Not been online since early eve yesterday so been catching up :)
10mm drill bit to drill the holes for the spacers...will look to see if the other spacers are here for you...but should be easy to get replacements for the ones you have or have somemade up to the same length as the one you have :)
Was sold cheap on the basis that while the towbar was there and complete I wasnt too sure what might have been missing or how useful the wiring was as I didnt use it myself...although I'm sure there should be another 3 spacers sat somewhere...should be 6 total though, 2 drivers side 4 passengers side...
I'm sure we can get the little bits you need sorted and have you up and running shortly mate :y
Star Torx bolts are just head bolts I put in the package for you as temp replacements for the 4 missing bolts I think I had mentioned before sending...thought they might come in useful as they are approx the right length size, but figured you would probably go get some replacement bolts from local hardware shop anyway (just trying to be helpful) sorry for the confusion caused :y
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Thats ok,Was just thinking could u pack them with washers i.e weld washers together somehow then use them as spacers
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They are just pipe cut to size...would think a hardware store could get some strong enough pipe and cut to the same size as the one you have?
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They are just pipe cut to size...would think a hardware store could get some strong enough pipe and cut to the same size as the one you have?
My saloon's haven't been, they've been 1"/25mm round bar drilled with a clearance hole for the 10/12mm bolts.
.... and I've only recently thrown away a Senator towbar & fittings :(
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well found a place that sells the spacers they come in a set and there £30 + vat :o .The spacers are 90mm long 16mm wide and the hole that the bolt goes though is 6mm
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..... they come in a set and they're £30 + vat :o . .......
You could buy a lot of washers for that kind of money! :o :o
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lol yeh for that set it cost more than the towbar.If i used washers what size would i need
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would this work
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ALUMINIUM-TUBE-5-8-OD-3-8-ID-200mm-LONG-2-OFF_W0QQitemZ220342476469QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_BOI_Metalworking_Milling_Welding_Metalworking_Supplies_ET?hash=item220342476469&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1301%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318
the one i have is 90mm long,16mm wide and the hole is 6mm
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I'm not sure homemade spacers/washers are that good an idea .. :(
The towbar has to take quite a lot of force, both horizantally from the weight of the towed vehicle, and vertically from suspension movement and leverage as the towhitch moves up and down. These forces are transmitted to the towhitch mounting points.
Any "incorrect" spacers might a) have the wrong alignement, b) not have the correct strength to handle these forces which could damage the car mounting points and/or the towhitch... the consequences of a failure whilst towing I'll leave to your imagination ... :(
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i have fitted towbars to my estates before,and from mermory there are 4 spacers 2 each side each side has different lengths. they are made from mild cold rolled steel for strength do you have the make of towbar? i have a friend who works in an enginering place who can make them for you if needs be
and i can drop them off next week when i am down your neck of the woods
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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tow bar is made by tow trust towbars
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I'm not sure homemade spacers/washers are that good an idea .. :(
The towbar has to take quite a lot of force, both horizantally from the weight of the towed vehicle, and vertically from suspension movement and leverage as the towhitch moves up and down. These forces are transmitted to the towhitch mounting points.
Any "incorrect" spacers might a) have the wrong alignement, b) not have the correct strength to handle these forces which could damage the car mounting points and/or the towhitch... the consequences of a failure whilst towing I'll leave to your imagination ... :(
The spacers are only so that you can tighten up against the boot floor skin, rather thansquashing the chassis leg/rail.
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i dont mind making my own just that i dont wanna be driving along with my box trailer with all my gear in because if it does give away i`ll be kissing away 10k of bikes and parts etc