Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: ste_bla on 25 January 2009, 16:19:50
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Just curious how easy is it to swap a 2.0 engine. Have 2 in cars and need them swapped. Renting a crane for weekend isnt that much just need to knw how long it should take someone who has never done anything like it?
Did think it would be quite easy but with the air con and oil cooler and lots of tubes it looks quite hard :(
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Just curious how easy is it to swap a 2.0 engine. Have 2 in cars and need them swapped. Renting a crane for weekend isnt that much just need to knw how long it should take someone who has never done anything like it?
Did think it would be quite easy but with the air con and oil cooler and lots of tubes it looks quite hard :(
is that swapping for another 2.0 or going v6?
it's not bad taking the 2.0 out but you need to undo the gearbox from the driveshaft(unless you can get to the 8 or so bolts on the bellhousing which i couldnt (didnt know where they all were) and even then 1 or two would have been right arse' to undo!
the only pipe i found to be any problem on the 2.0 is the "quick release" connector on the coolant transfer pipe on the drivers side of the engine, just yank the two heater matrix pipes off from the bulk head (not too bad to do) and take the rad pipes off and lift it up and out (to stop the engine swinging into it and mashing it up lol)
then there's just the egr pipes and powersteering i think which arnt too bad (then obviously then there's just the engine mounts)
HTH
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Be another 2.0
Does the oil cooler go with the block or car?
Also would need;
Power Steering Liquid?
Oil?
AntiFreeze Solution?
Aircon Refilling?
Brake fluid?
Sorry might seem sily questions but most I've ever done is swap discs/pads and a few rads and dont have the money to pay someone :(
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Be another 2.0
Does the oil cooler go with the block or car?
Also would need;
Power Steering Liquid?
Oil?
AntiFreeze Solution?
Aircon Refilling?
Brake fluid?
Sorry might seem sily questions but most I've ever done is swap discs/pads and a few rads and dont have the money to pay someone :(
i dont think you'll need new brake fluid as i think all the pipes are part of the car if that makes sense and just connected to the brake servo "tank" and operate from the vacuum... you can change it anyway so it's fresh
im not sure about the oil cooler on the 2.0 tbh
there's the gearbox oil cooler as part of the radiator but i dont really know where the 2.0 oil cooler was lol
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Maybe there isnt a oil cooler just there's some pipes that loop below the rad thought it might be that
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Maybe there isnt a oil cooler just there's some pipes that loop below the rad thought it might be that
lol on my very underbonnet stripped 2.0 shell that i had there was no oil cooler under the rad and couldnt really see one on the lump
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No engine oil cooler on 2.0.
Auto or manual?
If a/c is still charged and working you can change engine without disconnecting the a/c system. Remove the water radiator but leave the a/c condenser in place. Then unbolt the a/c compressor from block and tie to chassis rail. You will have to be carefull not to damage the condenser when lifting the engine out...I used a piece of 6mm ply to protect it...and you need a second pair of eyes / hands to guide the block past the a/c pump. It saves you around £50 for a re-gas.
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Its a manual (well both are). I take it the air condenser is basically the smaller rad?
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i changed my brother in laws 2.0 engine just two weeks ago, basically it is not that difficult just be methodical in your approach and you will be fine,
as for the gearbox bolts two of them are only accessible from the top of the engine and the rest are got from underneath ( they are 19mm bolts if memory serves me right) there are some smaller bolts (13mm i believe) that bolt the exhaust to the bellhousing etc
one of the gearbox bolts goes straight through and into the starter motor mount, the only difficulty really was disconnecting starter motor wires but we found it was easier to drop the starter out then disconnect wiring
Good luck mate :y
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How long did it take you to do it and also where did you detach the exhaust and seen on here the manifold bolts are likely to break?
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I did mine in a weekend; power steering pump just unbolts from the block but i had extra time to remove the wiring as well (couldn't shift the plugs off the auto box, so "un-wired" the whole engine). I disconnected the front pipe at the manifold and at the join at the back of the box (plus lambda sensor). Support the box and out she comes - just be careful when it comes off the mounts as it likes to swing forwards into the rad..
Coolant pipe (drivers side at the bottom) came out with the engine.
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Started it today and got confused so put everything back :(
Cant do it so looks like will have to scrap both cars and just get a small cheap £200 car for the moment. Means I cant fit in the car with kids but atleast mrs would have transprt :(
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Started it today and got confused so put everything back :(
Cant do it so looks like will have to scrap both cars and just get a small cheap £200 car for the moment. Means I cant fit in the car with kids but atleast mrs would have transprt :(
Don't scrap - see if anyone near to you could help
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Started it today and got confused so put everything back :(
Cant do it so looks like will have to scrap both cars and just get a small cheap £200 car for the moment. Means I cant fit in the car with kids but atleast mrs would have transprt :(
Don't scrap - see if anyone near to you could help
Doubt anyone would seeing its (from a garage) a 12hour job? Also have little money to pay :(
Might start another thread to see in a bit but dot hold out much hope :(
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12 hour job in a garage, but if you do some prep work yourself, plenty of members have the knowledge and wherewithal to help you with the last bits...
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It is really just a nut and bolt job:
Two engine mount nuts.
Power steering: I think its three bolts , then tie it out of the way.
Water hoses: two from the heater matrix, two rad hoses and two to the expansion bottle. Big return pipe for the water just unclips off the chassis.
Wiring: Disconnectes from the battery, the 3 big plugs just twist off (by the battery), unpug the ECU (under the big triangle thingy) and unclip any relays still attached in the same box. The whole wiring loom comes out with the engine in one..
Throttle cable is a couple of clips
Fuel pipes are two screw unions
Air filter hose
Pipe from Aux Air device to solenoid
Exhaust: Remove the downpipe (4 bolts on the manifold, two bolts to the rear section and undo the wiring to the Lambda sensor
Not sure about the A/C as don't have it on mine.
Apart from the starter motor and exhaust bracket, and the 6 bolts for the gearbox, think thats it. Have I missed anything?