Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: penny628 on 01 February 2009, 23:59:25
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can any one help me please im at a loss, I have a 2.5i v6 omega cd, it started with the heater blowing cold air, this was flushed by the garage but still does not work, then my car started to smell of like burning oil inside and out, I know have developed an overheating problem, there is mayo on the oil cap but the dipstick is clean i cant smell or see oil in the coolant tank, is this the HG or something else
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Unlikely HG
Where are you from...
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can any one help me please im at a loss, I have a 2.5i v6 omega cd, it started with the heater blowing cold air, this was flushed by the garage but still does not work, then my car started to smell of like burning oil inside and out, I know have developed an overheating problem, there is mayo on the oil cap but the dipstick is clean i cant smell or see oil in the coolant tank, is this the HG or something else
By what you have put above, burning oil could be your Cam Cover Gaskets, look to see if you have Oil in your spark plug wells...
Perhaps there is something wrong with your thermostat? the heat maybe something simple like the pipe come off the top of the HBV...
Are you losing coolant?
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What is your location, as there might be a member near to you who can poss take a look for you?
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I am located in High Wycombe, yes I am losing coolant
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can any one help me please im at a loss, I have a 2.5i v6 omega cd, it started with the heater blowing cold air, this was flushed by the garage but still does not work, then my car started to smell of like burning oil inside and out, I know have developed an overheating problem, there is mayo on the oil cap but the dipstick is clean i cant smell or see oil in the coolant tank, is this the HG or something else
Nope, if your dipstick is clean then no not hg, imho. Ignore the mayo in the filler neck, its caused by the neck sitting in colder air than the rest of the engine and condensation forming. Short journeys dont help, check it after a long run and it should have decreased if not burned off altogether.
The oil smell will be a leak of some sort most likely, probably cam cover seals, as said. Pull a few plug leads to check for oil in the plug wells.( Use genuine vx gaskits.)But most important make sure the breather system(blockage is usually the cause) is cleaned out at the same time or they will just blow again.
Coolent leaks are quite common on the omega and can be a pig to sort out, but the easiest fix and most common cause is the heater bypass valve (hbv) at the back of the engine (35 from vx, again use genuine only) see if its wet or showing signs of residue of a similar colour to the coolent, if not your into the v of the engine for oil cooler cover plate, stat housing or coolent bridge.
The hbv is also involved in the heating system and "could" be the cause, amongst other things, like the vacume pipe not connected to the top of it,as Entwood says, or vac pipes not connected to the bulk head, the vac system is relevent as it operates the vent motors and flaps in the cabin. But first thing to try is the auto reset on the climate controle(press and hold off and auto for 5 seconds or more, you should hear the motors chatter away for 30 seconds or so) if no luck check the 2 heater pipes through the bulk head are getting(very) hot when the engine is warned up. If not the heater wont work and would indicate a blocked matrix and may be a clue to over heating issue.
Over heating, check the fans are working (fuses?), and the rad has no cold spots. Hth.
Ps all the above are covered in the maintenance guides section, link at the bottom of my post.
Do you know of if the car has had oil cooler failure, or a stop leak addative in the coolent system at any point in the cars history?
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thankyou for your help all I can tell you is a stop leak was put into the system,I have checked the plugs now and there is oil in the wells, the car drives about 15 miles, then overheats this all started when the clutch went, the garage replaced the clutch blew my coil pack, sent the car back to me, had no revs on the counter struggled to drive it they drove it in 3rd gear said it was water in pertol tank, they decided to fix the heater they flushed the engine, replaced the coil pack new leads and plugs put on new cam sensor, car drove well power was all back except for burning oil smell in and out of the car then the car started to overheat thats when i checked the oil and saw the mayo on the cap dip stick was clear and no oil in the coolant.
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Read this link. http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1152564281 Should cure oil in the plugwells. How much coolant are you losing :question
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not losing a great deal of coolant, computer keeps saying no coolant even when its full though
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That could be the sensor in the expansion tank knackered. When you say it overheats, what temp are you getting on the dash :question
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The temp guage is at the top and lights up red way past the 100 mark the fan kicks in and then stops i just stop and turn off the engine but i have had it tickng over for 40mins on drive no problem just when you drive it thats when the smell of oil burning kicks in
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Coolant message when full will be the sensor on the header tank...get a decent second hand one and swap it over...5 minute job even for a novice...cam cover gaskets arent hard to change but sounds lke the garage you go to is incompetant, I would certainly consider going somewhere else!!
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Oil burning smell is more than likely cam cover gaskets leaking oil. When it`s idling for as you say 40mins does the temp gauge redline :question
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Thanks so much will change the sensor and do the cam gaskets when ticking over for 40mins temp gauge did not redline only when driving it overheats should i check anything on the heater as it blows cold air only sorry to be a pain
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Check the fuses in the engine bay ECU box.
Where are you?
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Im in High Wycombe
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When it`s overheating have you felt the top radiator hose to see if it`s hot. If it stays cold/cool it points to the thermostat not opening thus blocking coolant circulation between engine and rad. :(
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No I havent tried that, but will go and check that thanks
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No I havent tried that, but will go and check that thanks
Also check in driver`s footwell to see if the heater pipes are getting hot :y
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wow, thats a hell of list penny.
Over heating,
With the stop leak addative is it possible more than one bottle was used in the system?
Is there any sign of the fans coming on before the temp. gauge gets above 95 as it does not sound like they are working?
Oil smell,
In my experience once cam cover seals and breathers are done, you may well find that the plug leads have been fried in oil, so you should expect a miss fire at some point. Both the leads and plugs may well need changing. (vx plugs are cheapest/best. Avoid genuine plug leads they are massively over priced)
I guess you need to decide how you want to proceed, all there jobs are doable diy. There are guides to help you. Or there are people on here that can help? Unfortunately the dealers are over priced and incompetent as a rule, and local garages not knowledgeable enough tbh.
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Right have checked the hose to the rad its hot, the pipes in the footwell are cold and the fan kicks in about 100 mark then stops the gauge carries on up the red light comes on and its overheating i think only one bottle of engine leak was used the fan kicks in just before it overheats
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Ok, open the ECU box in the engine bay and check the fuses in thier...
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ok,rad is flowing but the heater matrix is not, could be blocked or the hbv is stuck koz its buggerd or or vacume pipes are not connected correctly.
Fans dont sound right to me. Check fuses as marks dtm suggests?
Oops took of 8 mins to type this and missed Marks post, will but out while hes on. :-)
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The fuses in the ECU box all look alright the heater pipes to the bulk head are mildly warm the fan is kicking at 97
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The fuses in the ECU box all look alright the heater pipes to the bulk head are mildly warm the fan is kicking at 97
Can you remove the fuses and inspect them closely......the Omega has a 3 fan setup and two of the fuses in the ECU box are associated with the lower speed settings.
Anything been removed or distrubed recently?
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The small pipes that go into the bulk head the one at the top is hot but the one that goes at the bottom and round the back is cold
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Ok, open the ECU box in the engine bay and check the fuses in thier...
Particularly the 30A green ones from memory
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Will check the fuses again the car had a clutch fitted just befor this trouble new crank sensor cam sensor engine flush they played about with the heater and blew the coil pack then drove 12 miles in 3rd with no power replaced coil pack leads and plugs then oil smell and overheating started and still no heater
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yep all the fuses are ok have checjed them all
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thankyou for your help all I can tell you is a stop leak was put into the system,I have checked the plugs now and there is oil in the wells, the car drives about 15 miles, then overheats this all started when the clutch went, the garage replaced the clutch blew my coil pack, sent the car back to me, had no revs on the counter struggled to drive it they drove it in 3rd gear said it was water in pertol tank, they decided to fix the heater they flushed the engine, replaced the coil pack new leads and plugs put on new cam sensor, car drove well power was all back except for burning oil smell in and out of the car then the car started to overheat thats when i checked the oil and saw the mayo on the cap dip stick was clear and no oil in the coolant.
Was the heater matrix flushed :question Is it possible for you to remove heater pipes at bulkhead (http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1185891036) and flush out matrix by alternating hosepipe between inlet and outlet untill you get a constant clean flow :question
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Why do I smell a bodged repair.....
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Why do I smell a bodged repair.....
Seems that way Mark :(
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Thanks guys you were right the heater matrixand the Hbv are the problem and so are the cam gaskits, put some new fuses in today and the fan is kicking in earlier, bought a new hbv and now its a case of where to start