Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: kjf7 on 05 March 2009, 09:33:41
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i've had it adjusted three times now with new pads,fitting kits,disks and back plates it just does'nt seem to hold the car on a bit of a slope cant pull it up any futher no that it comes up to high now like when it was first done. What do you think? :'(
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i've had it adjusted three times now with new pads,fitting kits,disks and back plates it just does'nt seem to hold the car on a bit of a slope cant pull it up any futher no that it comes up to high now like when it was first done. What do you think? :'(
So its time to get the job done properly then!
Never seen a garage set a handbrake up correctly yet (on almost any car!)
See here:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1152564750
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I think they tried to do it by adjusting at the disks only.
As I understand it (correct me if I'm wrong anyone)
- the disk adjusters are to set the shoes just clear of the drums when the cable is slack
- the central adjuster then takes up the slack so that the handbrake activates at an appropriate number of clicks (4-5 is good I reckon).
So if you don't do the second step, even if the first is correct, you may not end up with the brake holding, even on maximum clicks - beacuse there is too much slack in the cable.
You should also free off the central adjuster/ensure the cable is slack before starting on the disk adjusters.
Its all in the guide. Its a pain getting underneath but its the only way to do the job properly.
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I think they tried to do it by adjusting at the disks only.
As I understand it (correct me if I'm wrong anyone)
- the disk adjusters are to set the shoes just clear of the drums when the cable is slack
- the central adjuster then takes up the slack so that the handbrake activates at an appropriate number of clicks (4-5 is good I reckon).
So if you don't do the second step, even if the first is correct, you may not end up with the brake holding, even on maximum clicks - beacuse there is too much slack in the cable.
You should also free off the central adjuster/ensure the cable is slack before starting on the disk adjusters.
Its all in the guide. Its a pain getting underneath but its the only way to do the job properly.
Yes this is the only way to do it! Just ensure you soak the heat shield nuts in WD40 a bit before you do the job. ;)
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No, soak them ina penetrating fluid, not an over rated glue remover.
Yes, Ian is correct.
Its key that the cable is VERY slack before doing any setup on the shoe position.
Its also key to trip the setup down and check the pivots etc on the actuator arm as they can sieze if not used (note to all auto drivers!)
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.... as they can sieze if not used (note to all auto drivers!)
:P :P :P it does get used .... when the tyre bay fitter puts in on and when the MOT tester tests it! ....... and the odd steep hill!! :y
:y :y
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No, soak them ina penetrating fluid, not an over rated glue remover.
Yes, Ian is correct.
Its key that the cable is VERY slack before doing any setup on the shoe position.
Its also key to trip the setup down and check the pivots etc on the actuator arm as they can sieze if not used (note to all auto drivers!)
Well WD40 has always worked brilliantly for me over the last 40 years Mark! :D :D :D :D :D ;)
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No, soak them ina penetrating fluid, not an over rated glue remover.
Yes, Ian is correct.
Its key that the cable is VERY slack before doing any setup on the shoe position.
Its also key to trip the setup down and check the pivots etc on the actuator arm as they can sieze if not used (note to all auto drivers!)
Well WD40 has always worked brilliantly for me over the last 40 years Mark! :D :D :D :D :D ;)
Clearly not somebody who has needed good additional lubrication then!
It is a truely poor lube and its penetration properties are only ona par with light oil plus a dash of parafin
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No, soak them ina penetrating fluid, not an over rated glue remover.
Yes, Ian is correct.
Its key that the cable is VERY slack before doing any setup on the shoe position.
Its also key to trip the setup down and check the pivots etc on the actuator arm as they can sieze if not used (note to all auto drivers!)
Well WD40 has always worked brilliantly for me over the last 40 years Mark! :D :D :D :D :D ;)
Clearly not somebody who has needed good additional lubrication then!
It is a truely poor lube and its penetration properties are only ona par with light oil plus a dash of parafin
certainly not! ;) ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Have had 1990 carlton
1994 Corsa
Wife has got 2001 Astra
Did have 2002 Corsa, now daughters.
Got 2006 Astra.
Vauxhall handbrake - not the best.
Remember, 18 months or so ago an article in a magazine, read at the dentist that Vectra handbrakes aren't good.
Maybe a vauxhall fault??? ::)
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Have had 1990 carlton
1994 Corsa
Wife has got 2001 Astra
Did have 2002 Corsa, now daughters.
Got 2006 Astra.
Vauxhall handbrake - not the best.
Remember, 18 months or so ago an article in a magazine, read at the dentist that Vectra handbrakes aren't good.
Maybe a vauxhall fault??? ::)
Typical bull shite.....as already said, when serviced and adjusted correctly they are excellent.
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What most people fail to realise is that when the handbrake is applied it is generally onto a hot disc / drum, as this then cools it will obviously contract thereby the shoes will not be exerting so much pressure.
The Vectra B issue was blamed on 'an insufficient hanbrake cable diameter' officially, but then how many of us pull the handbrake on that extra notch on a slope just to be sure which then stretches the cable no matter what it's diameter.
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What most people fail to realise is that when the handbrake is applied it is generally onto a hot disc / drum, as this then cools it will obviously contract thereby the shoes will not be exerting so much pressure.
The Vectra B issue was blamed on 'an insufficient hanbrake cable diameter' officially, but then how many of us pull the handbrake on that extra notch on a slope just to be sure which then stretches the cable no matter what it's diameter.
True if the handbrake is based on a disk caliper clamping a disk (as may be the case on a Vectra) but in the Omega's case the reverse is true. The drum contracts resulting in a greater force against the friction material.
Kevinb
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I noticed on the Insignia test day that the majority of the models now have 'electronic' handbrakes, would this compensate for the contraction etc? Specifically would it compensate after the ignition had been turned off for a period of time??? :-/
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What most people fail to realise is that when the handbrake is applied it is generally onto a hot disc / drum, as this then cools it will obviously contract thereby the shoes will not be exerting so much pressure.
The Vectra B issue was blamed on 'an insufficient hanbrake cable diameter' officially, but then how many of us pull the handbrake on that extra notch on a slope just to be sure which then stretches the cable no matter what it's diameter.
Not on the Miggy ... "normal" brakes are the discs .. hand brake is the drum .. so unless you have been driving with the handbrake on (or doing J-turns ?? ) the handbrake drum is cold, and should never get hot as it should always be stationary whilst applied ... :)
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What most people fail to realise is that when the handbrake is applied it is generally onto a hot disc / drum, as this then cools it will obviously contract thereby the shoes will not be exerting so much pressure.
The Vectra B issue was blamed on 'an insufficient hanbrake cable diameter' officially, but then how many of us pull the handbrake on that extra notch on a slope just to be sure which then stretches the cable no matter what it's diameter.
Not on the Miggy ... "normal" brakes are the discs .. hand brake is the drum .. so unless you have been driving with the handbrake on (or doing J-turns ?? ) the handbrake drum is cold, and should never get hot as it should always be stationary whilst applied ... :)
Omega (along with most other vehicles with rear disc brakes) have the drum and disc as one unit, the drum is inbound at the axle mounting of the disc, therefore the whole disc/drum heats up with normal brake application.
:)
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Its also key to trip the setup down and check the pivots etc on the actuator arm as they can sieze if not used (note to all auto drivers!)
I think I know who that's aimed at ::)
:-[
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What most people fail to realise is that when the handbrake is applied it is generally onto a hot disc / drum, as this then cools it will obviously contract thereby the shoes will not be exerting so much pressure.
The Vectra B issue was blamed on 'an insufficient hanbrake cable diameter' officially, but then how many of us pull the handbrake on that extra notch on a slope just to be sure which then stretches the cable no matter what it's diameter.
Not on the Miggy ... "normal" brakes are the discs .. hand brake is the drum .. so unless you have been driving with the handbrake on (or doing J-turns ?? ) the handbrake drum is cold, and should never get hot as it should always be stationary whilst applied ... :)
Omega (along with most other vehicles with rear disc brakes) have the drum and disc as one unit, the drum is inbound at the axle mounting of the disc, therefore the whole disc/drum heats up with normal brake application. :)
Yes, and as the disc cools it contracts onto the shoes making the braking even better!
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i've had it adjusted three times now with new pads,fitting kits,disks and back plates it just does'nt seem to hold the car on a bit of a slope cant pull it up any futher no that it comes up to high now like when it was first done. What do you think? :'(
So its time to get the job done properly then!
Never seen a garage set a handbrake up correctly yet (on almost any car!)
See here:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1152564750
Shilton Garage just north of Coventry managed to do mine fine - 3 to 4 clicks for fully on and it now doesn't move. Releases fully as well...
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would that mean that the insignia, with its electronic handbrake, wont let you apply the handbrake whilst moving (thus stopping people doing handbrake turns :P)
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I had new Brake Disks, shoes and pads last week, all fitted by Mark and adjusted.
Can honestly say I've never been in a car with a better handbrake.
Holds it anywhere
Will stop the car in not bad time from 30ish.
Very impressed.
If yours can't do that, either something needs replacing or adjusting properly.
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would that mean that the insignia, with its electronic handbrake, wont let you apply the handbrake whilst moving (thus stopping people doing handbrake turns :P)
Although, particularly my MV6, Omega handbrakes are effective, I find it's not good for handrake turns. It seems smaller cars with rear drums that you can 'snatch' easily (Omega needs a heck of a pull to snatch both rears) far better for '1 point U-turns'. Apparently ::).