Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: MutantCav on 18 March 2009, 07:33:00
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Fuse seems to be fine, connections to the horn seem firm but horn seems to have stopped working for past month or so...anything I can check?? :y
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get someone to hold the horn on and give the horn a smack with a hammer
sometimes it works ;D
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miggy24 got some dixie horns for sale
use them ;D
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Could it just simply be a faulty horn then? I can just stick another on if it is :y
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were both horns working or has it got only one on it, be a bit strange for both to pack up at the same time ;)
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i think the best thing to do before you start paying out any money is to check if there is any voltage to the horns
bare in mind that ive noticed that the 2 horn buttons on the steering wheel are not conneced so check each one
there are 2 horns behind the bumper that run to each of the horn buttons seperate
check voltage first mate then we can take it from there
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ive got to come over your way later mutant & ive got a couple of horns knocking about, do you want me to pop in?? ;)
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i think the best thing to do before you start paying out any money is to check if there is any voltage to the horns
bare in mind that ive noticed that the 2 horn buttons on the steering wheel are not conneced so check each one
there are 2 horns behind the bumper that run to each of the horn buttons seperate
check voltage first mate then we can take it from there
ok...but erm pay out money??? Whats that? I'll just grab a spare from my garage lol
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i think the best thing to do before you start paying out any money is to check if there is any voltage to the horns
bare in mind that ive noticed that the 2 horn buttons on the steering wheel are not conneced so check each one
there are 2 horns behind the bumper that run to each of the horn buttons seperate
check voltage first mate then we can take it from there
ok...but erm pay out money??? Whats that? I'll just grab a spare from my garage lol
there you go then
all sorted
see how you get on but i would still check for power first just incase its not the horns
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STOP!
WNPC (Willy Nilly Part Changing) is a poor approach to fixing a fault.
Do the simple stuff first
1) Is there voltage getting to the horns when the horn button is pressed
2) Is the relay operating?
Then check also the steering wheel squib, is the airbag light one, is the radio remotes working?
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Wheres the horn relay?? Airbags been on since I got the car, horn worked fine then...not checked remote stereo controls will do :y
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Bottom right of the cabin relay box, just below the diag connector
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WNPC (Willy Nilly Part Changing) is a poor approach to fixing a fault.
That's only when you're paying for the replacements. It can be the quickest way to get going again if you've got a donor spare (or two).
I think Mutant's in a privileged position! ;)
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WNPC (Willy Nilly Part Changing) is a poor approach to fixing a fault.
That's only when you're paying for the replacements. It can be the quickest way to get going again if you've got a donor spare (or two).
I think Mutant's in a privileged position! ;)
Totaly disagree.......WNBC adds more unknows and you dont know that the part you are fitting works (even if it might have done when removed from say a donor car)....so you could end up with 2 iffy items in the system!
THE most important thing with fault finding is to locate and prove the fault before chnging anything.
WNBC should be left to the trade (because given the skill level they have thats all they are capable of these days)
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WNPC (Willy Nilly Part Changing) is a poor approach to fixing a fault.
That's only when you're paying for the replacements. It can be the quickest way to get going again if you've got a donor spare (or two).
I think Mutant's in a privileged position! ;)
Totaly disagree.......WNBC adds more unknows and you dont know that the part you are fitting works (even if it might have done when removed from say a donor car)....so you could end up with 2 iffy items in the system!
THE most important thing with fault finding is to locate and prove the fault before chnging anything.
WNPC should be left to the trade (because given the skill level they have thats all they are capable of these days)
Depends on whether you're trying known good spares, what you're fixing & whether you have a helper. A bit difficult reading the multimeter at the front of the car and sitting in the car pressing the button at the same time.
Putting a known good horn on is the easiest way to go in this instance IMO
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...WNBC adds more unknows...
There are times when it's the only way you are going to solve the problem.
...and you don't know that the part you are fitting works...
That's a bit extreme. In the case of the horn, you poke it on the battery as you walk past.
We must agree to disagree methinks. :D
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First time mine packed up leccy plug had fallen off horns!
Second time fuse blown - new fuse horns worked until bolted onto car then fuse blew again. Replacement horns cured!!
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Most cheapo electric horns are a like a loudspeaker with a series switch mechanically connected to the diaphragm. So as the diaphragm moves the switch breaks and power is removed from the coil, so the diaphragm moves back. The mass and springiness of the mechanism determines the pitch at which it oscillates.
Trouble is, they take a lot of current and the contacts arc. They can weld up - no sound, blows fuse; but a clout with a hammer (especially when powered via a current-limiting resistor) can free the contacts again.
Sadly the contacts are probably damaged by now so the contact area reduces which aggravates the problem for the future. :-[
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Right, had a bit of a check today although not a clue how to check the current...but steering wheel stereo controls work fine...fuse is fine...relay clicks when either horn button is pressed which suggests to me its ok? And both horns have their wiring firmly in place...
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Give the horns a firm tap with a small hammer ... it is not unknown tor the moving parts to corrode and sieze if not used for long periods .. a judicious tap - especialliy whilst someone presses the button - can often free the mechanism .. :)
You could also try 12 V directly at the horns with some decent sized wire ... ???
HTH
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Right, had a bit of a check today although not a clue how to check the current...but steering wheel stereo controls work fine...fuse is fine...relay clicks when either horn button is pressed which suggests to me its ok? And both horns have their wiring firmly in place...
Put 12 volt across the terminals of each horn - after you 've roemoved it - to see if it works.
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How about a firm tap with a big hammer as thats all I have? lol The horn gets used quite regularly (small boy who loves pressing the horn button in Tescos car park) but its quite possible...if not I will swap the horns over with the others and see where we are then :y
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How about a firm tap with a big hammer as thats all I have? lol The horn gets used quite regularly (small boy who loves pressing the horn button in Tescos car park) but its quite possible...if not I will swap the horns over with the others and see where we are then :y
Do you realise they're both a different frequency ..... 500Hz & 400Hz
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Didnt realise the 2 horns were individually controlled by the 2 buttons, or that they were a different frequency no...now I HAVE to get them working to check it out! lol
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Didnt realise the 2 horns were individually controlled by the 2 buttons, or that they were a different frequency no...now I HAVE to get them working to check it out! lol
They are NOT ... both horns sound at the same time if either button pressed, just look at the connector !!!, the 2 frequencies just give that nice "blare" sound .. :)
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Didnt realise the 2 horns were individually controlled by the 2 buttons, or that they were a different frequency no...now I HAVE to get them working to check it out! lol
:-? What Entwood says. They're called 'twin tone' horns.
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I wonder if you can hook them up to play tunes! lol Personally I would prefer it to have a great big artic sounding BLARE
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have you checked wiring from horns as i had a mate with same problem and it turned out to be wiring had been rubbing and had caused fault ;)
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have you checked wiring from horns as i had a mate with same problem and it turned out to be wiring had been rubbing and had caused fault ;)
Which was the reason for one of mine failing some time ago.
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Swapped over the horns (and the SAI pump as it was whining) and horn is back...defo the horns as I swapped the horns with the new one...works...plugged it back into old ones no horn...back to new and horn works again! :) Cheers for all your help guys :y