Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Lazydocker on 06 April 2009, 15:58:50
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Right, I changed the C/S back in August, admittedly it wasn't a "Genuine Vauxhall" part due to EPC being wrong but it was a Bosch sensor and identical to the VX ones. Obviously I re-routed the wiring too :y :y
The code 19 has never cleared from the paper clip test even though there are now no signs or symptoms whatsoever that there is a problem.
When Kevin tried to Tech2 it we couldn't get any communication from anything which ran through the same pin, including the stereo. Anyway, I've had the stereo out today and checked the wiring behind and can find no fault whatsoever... I'm popping down to see Johhnycboy tomorrow so I'll have another go with his "My Naff Code Reader".
Question is... Does crank sensor code normally have to be cleared? If not, would a dodgy connection on the radio (which we have assumed is causing the comms failure) cause the code to remain after the 20 or so clean starts? It's certainly had that... I've done over 11k since then!
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Interesting, I'm currently scratching my head over a code 19. Sensor replaced about 8 months ago, failed 4 months ago , replaced again under warranty, now I've got a code 19 still showing when I paperclip. But when it previously failed and now I have never had any problem with the engine, its always run smoothly and ticked over nicely.
I'm just going to leave it for now see what happens
Genuine vaux sensor .
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I think the code will clear after a number of starts. Not as familiar with the non-dbw ECUs but I believe that's the case.
It should also show up as "present" or "not present" depending on whether the original problem still exists.
It's an odd one regarding the diag line. I expected there to have been a previous bodge behind the head unit interfering with that!
You might want to try unplugging each device on that diag line until it starts working - but also have a look at the diag connector just in case someone has been a bit over zealous ramming a paperclip in and has damaged the connector.
Kevin
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I think the code will clear after a number of starts. Not as familiar with the non-dbw ECUs but I believe that's the case.
It should also show up as "present" or "not present" depending on whether the original problem still exists.
It's an odd one regarding the diag line. I expected there to have been a previous bodge behind the head unit interfering with that!
You might want to try unplugging each device on that diag line until it starts working - but also have a look at the diag connector just in case someone has been a bit over zealous ramming a paperclip in and has damaged the connector.
Kevin
We had a really good check on that when it wouldn't work :-/ :-/
I reckon it may have been a loose connection at the radio (I hope) as I know that had been interfered with because it was me ::) ::) :-[ :-[
Can you remember what else is on the same line? Engine ECU, Radio, ?
Perhaps TB will pop in later and fill in the gaps for me ;) ;)
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Right, I changed the C/S back in August, admittedly it wasn't a "Genuine Vauxhall" part due to EPC being wrong but it was a Bosch sensor and identical to the VX ones. Obviously I re-routed the wiring too :y :y
The code 19 has never cleared from the paper clip test even though there are now no signs or symptoms whatsoever that there is a problem.
When Kevin tried to Tech2 it we couldn't get any communication from anything which ran through the same pin, including the stereo. Anyway, I've had the stereo out today and checked the wiring behind and can find no fault whatsoever... I'm popping down to see Johhnycboy tomorrow so I'll have another go with his "My Naff Code Reader".
Question is... Does crank sensor code normally have to be cleared? If not, would a dodgy connection on the radio (which we have assumed is causing the comms failure) cause the code to remain after the 20 or so clean starts? It's certainly had that... I've done over 11k since then!
initially, I'd still suspect a dodgy crank sensor, esp as non genuine...
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Interesting, I'm currently scratching my head over a code 19. Sensor replaced about 8 months ago, failed 4 months ago , replaced again under warranty, now I've got a code 19 still showing when I paperclip. But when it previously failed and now I have never had any problem with the engine, its always run smoothly and ticked over nicely.
I'm just going to leave it for now see what happens
Genuine vaux sensor .
Pop it up one day, we'll clear it out, and see what happens then
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I think the code will clear after a number of starts. Not as familiar with the non-dbw ECUs but I believe that's the case.
It should also show up as "present" or "not present" depending on whether the original problem still exists.
It's an odd one regarding the diag line. I expected there to have been a previous bodge behind the head unit interfering with that!
You might want to try unplugging each device on that diag line until it starts working - but also have a look at the diag connector just in case someone has been a bit over zealous ramming a paperclip in and has damaged the connector.
Kevin
We had a really good check on that when it wouldn't work :-/ :-/
I reckon it may have been a loose connection at the radio (I hope) as I know that had been interfered with because it was me ::) ::) :-[ :-[
Can you remember what else is on the same line? Engine ECU, Radio, ?
Perhaps TB will pop in later and fill in the gaps for me ;) ;)
From memory, radio is on pin 6 or 7 of diag connector, and display is on other. seem to remember the engine being on pin 7, but would need to check wiring.
Its in the book of lies I believe if you check wiring diags
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initially, I'd still suspect a dodgy crank sensor, esp as non genuine...
Agreed. If it's still got a 19 there's something about the crank sensor signal it's not happy with.
My only other suggestion would be that it's picking up noise from another system. Poorly suppressed coil pack LT supply, breaking down HT lead or general noise on the 12v supply, perhaps from failing alternator brushes or rectifier pack.
Would expect other symptoms with most of those though. :-/
I remember we did check the diag. socket now. My guess is that something else on that line's pulling it down. I will have a look later and see if I can figure out what else's attached to it.
Kevin
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I think the code will clear after a number of starts. Not as familiar with the non-dbw ECUs but I believe that's the case.
It should also show up as "present" or "not present" depending on whether the original problem still exists.
It's an odd one regarding the diag line. I expected there to have been a previous bodge behind the head unit interfering with that!
You might want to try unplugging each device on that diag line until it starts working - but also have a look at the diag connector just in case someone has been a bit over zealous ramming a paperclip in and has damaged the connector.
Kevin
We had a really good check on that when it wouldn't work :-/ :-/
I reckon it may have been a loose connection at the radio (I hope) as I know that had been interfered with because it was me ::) ::) :-[ :-[
Can you remember what else is on the same line? Engine ECU, Radio, ?
Perhaps TB will pop in later and fill in the gaps for me ;) ;)
From memory, radio is on pin 6 or 7 of diag connector, and display is on other. seem to remember the engine being on pin 7, but would need to check wiring.
Its in the book of lies I believe if you check wiring diags
Don't have one of those... See little point when it's utter rubbish and I can get better, more reliable information from this forum :y :y
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Don't have one of those... See little point when it's utter rubbish and I can get better, more reliable information from this forum :y :y
There is no point... [size=8]Other than the wiring diagrams.[/size] :-X
Kevin
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Don't have one of those... See little point when it's utter rubbish and I can get better, more reliable information from this forum :y :y
Nah, its a useful little guide. If often 'dangle berries' ;D
Worth picking one up off the Gay for a fiver :y
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Im working in reading right now TB so could be a challenge but its not a bad idea (its very handy having you close by I must try not to abuse the service ;) ). I guess its possible that I've just been unlucky and had 2 failures.....
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Im working in reading right now TB so could be a challenge but its not a bad idea (its very handy having you close by I must try not to abuse the service ;) ). I guess its possible that I've just been unlucky and had 2 failures.....
It would prove for def if the code occasionally needs to be cleared after reapir.
As for the 20 starts thing, when my crank sensor let go, immediately upon replacing it, it reverted to a 31 (the only diag tool I had then was a paperclip), so I think it should show as fixed instantly.
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initially, I'd still suspect a dodgy crank sensor, esp as non genuine...
Agreed. If it's still got a 19 there's something about the crank sensor signal it's not happy with.
My only other suggestion would be that it's picking up noise from another system. Poorly suppressed coil pack LT supply, breaking down HT lead or general noise on the 12v supply, perhaps from failing alternator brushes or rectifier pack.
Would expect other symptoms with most of those though. :-/
I remember we did check the diag. socket now. My guess is that something else on that line's pulling it down. I will have a look later and see if I can figure out what else's attached to it.
Kevin
TBH I would have agreed if it were a cheap pattern part but... Genuine Bosch, Identical in every way to Vx part (which is Bosch) and, more to the point, it's never cleared :-/ :-/
I wonder if the LPG RPM pickup is confusing it somehow???
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Im working in reading right now TB so could be a challenge but its not a bad idea (its very handy having you close by I must try not to abuse the service ;) ). I guess its possible that I've just been unlucky and had 2 failures.....
It would prove for def if the code occasionally needs to be cleared after reapir.
As for the 20 starts thing, when my crank sensor let go, immediately upon replacing it, it reverted to a 31 (the only diag tool I had then was a paperclip), so I think it should show as fixed instantly.
I've never had a 31 out of mine, even before the sensor failed :-/ :-/
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Im working in reading right now TB so could be a challenge but its not a bad idea (its very handy having you close by I must try not to abuse the service ;) ). I guess its possible that I've just been unlucky and had 2 failures.....
It would prove for def if the code occasionally needs to be cleared after reapir.
As for the 20 starts thing, when my crank sensor let go, immediately upon replacing it, it reverted to a 31 (the only diag tool I had then was a paperclip), so I think it should show as fixed instantly.
I've never had a 31 out of mine, even before the sensor failed :-/ :-/
unplug lpg ecu and see what happens then?
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Im working in reading right now TB so could be a challenge but its not a bad idea (its very handy having you close by I must try not to abuse the service ;) ). I guess its possible that I've just been unlucky and had 2 failures.....
It would prove for def if the code occasionally needs to be cleared after reapir.
As for the 20 starts thing, when my crank sensor let go, immediately upon replacing it, it reverted to a 31 (the only diag tool I had then was a paperclip), so I think it should show as fixed instantly.
I've never had a 31 out of mine, even before the sensor failed :-/ :-/
unplug lpg ecu and see what happens then?
Ooh... That's an idea. Why didn't I think of that :-[ :-[ :-[
I know the sensor was starting to fail before I fitted the LPG so that definitely isn't the cause but could be why the code's still showing
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The only thing the lpg might do is to introduce some electrical noise due to switching of injectors. Worth eliminating but unlikely I'd say.
RPM signal is an output from the main ECU and not connected to the crank sensor signal, which is a high resolution tooth pattern rather than a "once per bang" pulse.
Kevin
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The only thing the lpg might do is to introduce some electrical noise due to switching of injectors. Worth eliminating but unlikely I'd say.
RPM signal is an output from the main ECU and not connected to the crank sensor signal, which is a high resolution tooth pattern rather than a "once per bang" pulse.
Kevin
I love it when we can get such accurate description so quickly! :y :y :y
Worth eliminating but, as you rightly say, unlikely to be the cause.... This one's got me a bit baffled :-/ :-/
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Im working in reading right now TB so could be a challenge but its not a bad idea (its very handy having you close by I must try not to abuse the service ;) ). I guess its possible that I've just been unlucky and had 2 failures.....
It would prove for def if the code occasionally needs to be cleared after reapir.
As for the 20 starts thing, when my crank sensor let go, immediately upon replacing it, it reverted to a 31 (the only diag tool I had then was a paperclip), so I think it should show as fixed instantly.
I've never had a 31 out of mine, even before the sensor failed :-/ :-/
Nor have I. Engine off, ignition on, paperclip in 12 12 12 19 19 19 and repeat....