Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: kingplym on 15 April 2009, 13:25:44
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this might sound silly but
1. do i have to drain the oil out of the engine?
and 2. do i have to drain the coolant out of the engine also?
im about to start today on the prob :-?
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You definately need to drain the coolant (passenger side corner of the rad is a drain tap)
You should change the oil to (drain after the work is done)
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thanx :y :y :y
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i was just reading the haynes comic book/book of lies as i have it referred to and there is a bit that says to depressories the fuel lines.
is this really necessary or do i just go with what the oof maint/tech sections say as im not sure if im supposed to know this or not.
all help needed ;D
thanx :y :y :y
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also whats are the visible differences between a new oil cooler and a knackered oil cooler :-?
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i was just reading the haynes comic book/book of lies as i have it referred to and there is a bit that says to depressories the fuel lines.
is this really necessary or do i just go with what the oof maint/tech sections say as im not sure if im supposed to know this or not.
all help needed ;D
thanx :y :y :y
Valve at back drivers side of engine (like a tyre valve - take dust cap off, apply rag and release pressure with small screwdriver - mind eyes!
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also whats are the visible differences between a new oil cooler and a knackered oil cooler :-?
You probably wont see where the knackered one is leaking - only visual difference is that new one will be clean and looks new, old will be "cruddy" :) ;)
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i was just reading the haynes comic book/book of lies as i have it referred to and there is a bit that says to depressories the fuel lines.y :y :y
I have never depressurized the fuel lines before removing the unions and have never had proplems. I just put some rags round the fuel line unions and loosened the unions - hardly anything came out.
I am not an expert though and this is just my experience on a 2.5 petrol. :-?
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also whats are the visible differences between a new oil cooler and a knackered oil cooler :-?
Be nice if you Keep us posted on you're progress though, as will I. I am about to change the oil cooler on mine (Have just been rounding all the parts up).
Just a thought, but if you really wanted to test if you're oil cooler was knackered, you could may'be remove it, dry it off, and fiil it with oil and leave it to stand to check for leaks. :y
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ive also been rounding up the tools. just waiting for my crowfoot spanner to turn up and away i go.
i know everyone says to replace the oil cooler but what if just the sealant/ gasket has gone? :-?
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ive also been rounding up the tools. just waiting for my crowfoot spanner to turn up and away i go.
i know everyone says to replace the oil cooler but what if just the sealant/ gasket has gone? :-?
If its just the gasket/sealant gone you will have a water leak only - if cooler gone you will see oil in water.
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ok thanx for the clarification :y
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I have oil in the water and a coolant leak. I'm hoping the sealant on the oil cooler cover has failed so I can sort them both out at the same time. Otherwise i'll have to start looking for the leak as well...
Whats the chances of the cover seal failing at the same time of the oil cooler itself?...I'm dreading finding head gasket problems while i'm down there, although been told this is unlikely.
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I have oil in the water and a coolant leak. I'm hoping the sealant on the oil cooler cover has failed so I can sort them both out at the same time. Otherwise i'll have to start looking for the leak as well...
Whats the chances of the cover seal failing at the same time of the oil cooler itself?...I'm dreading finding head gasket problems while i'm down there, although been told this is unlikely.
Leak could be cover seal, coolant bridge seals, thermostat seal, HBv or a pipe. Have a good look around mate!
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Yep, when stripped down you will see the weaping part.
If its the stat to block joint then use some of the cooler plate goo to re-seal it.
As for the fuel pressure, remove fuse 18 (middle row, 3rd from the right) and start the car before the strip down. The engine will run and then after a short while conk out. This fuse is for the fuel pump so its an easy way of de-pressurising the fuel rail (you will still get some dribble but there will not be any pressure)
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cheers mark :y im much happier pulling fuses, being a sparky. that to me is much simpler than what i read in the haynes comic
thanx :y :y :y
ps. big o bob let me know how you get on cos i got same symptons but still waiting for part to turn up :y
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cheers mark :y im much happier pulling fuses, being a sparky. that to me is much simpler than what i read in the haynes comic
thanx :y :y :y
ps. big o bob let me know how you get on cos i got same symptons but still waiting for part to turn up :y
I spent a few hours last night and today stripping the upper and lower manifolds etc, as per the Haynes Bible. When I got down to the oil cooler pipes, i did'nt have the tool to get the oil filter off (Its a genuine Vx one). So i'm stuck now until I get the bugger off.
Now I'm down to the oil cooler plate though, it looking pretty obvious that coolant is leaking from the oil cooler plate. good luck with yours mate!
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Before re-fitting with new sealent, wipe the metal surfaces (having cleaned them well) with some thinners to get it really well degreased
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Before re-fitting with new sealent, wipe the metal surfaces (having cleaned them well) with some thinners to get it really well degreased
Thanks mate, will do. I'm sure kingplym will as well...
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not til mon for me :-[
vx still not got me cooler :'(
will let you know how i do :y
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any luck with that oil filter bigobob? :-?
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any luck with that oil filter bigobob? :-?
Yes mate. It turned out to have a 12mm hex (allen key slotted) screw, clamping the filter case to the block. I got one from Halfords today and got the sod off. The only problem is, I will need to get the same type off filter to replace it as there is no stud for the aftermarket type filter to screw onto.
Because i'm a bit of a tight bugger and did'nt want to shell out on a set of different sized tools. I used a handy trick to find out what size the hex slot was. This was to press playdough or bluetack over the slot, enough to make an impression of the size required.
I'm planning to crack on tommorow, and get the cooler in - Thats the plan anyway, if I can take myself away from the playdough!!! ;D
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Search on here - you can convert to screw in cannister filters quite easily :y
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Search on here - you can convert to screw in cannister filters quite easily :y
But why would you want to??? I can't really see any benefit. :-/
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Search on here - you can convert to screw in cannister filters quite easily :y
This is the link i was given on another thread, to make a conversion - although I don't think I will bother, it is helpful for anyone that does ;)
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1204142232
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Search on here - you can convert to screw in cannister filters quite easily :y
But why would you want to??? I can't really see any benefit. :-/
Read this - http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1204142232
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Search on here - you can convert to screw in cannister filters quite easily :y
But why would you want to??? I can't really see any benefit. :-/
Read this - http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1204142232
But if it's not broke .... why fix it? I've never had problems removing my filter housing, apart from the oil running down your arm! ;) :y :y :y
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Don't know if you've started yours yet kingplym, but i'm beguining to wish i'd never started!!! what should be a fairly easy job is turning into a nightmare.
I went to loosen the oil pipes from the block, and I reckon someones been at them already and rounded at least one of them off a bit.
I assume these are 19mm (But my spanner is slightly loose) and don't want to risk causing damage. Any idea's how to get out of this one?
It does'nt help that space is tight. Is there a special type of spanner for these nuts?
Cheers all :-?