Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Roger on 22 April 2009, 20:51:47
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hi,
we have new valve seals to fit as the car is blue smoking on start up.
Is it possible to change the valve seals on a 2.6mv6 (01)without taking off the cylinder heads, by means of putting 1 cylinder at a time under compressed air to keep up the valves whilst the bucket and spring is removed, then remove the old valve seal and replace it with a new 1 and re-build up the valve assembly, then onto the next 1. has this been carried out before ? . this will save us a full cylinder heads stripdown.
regards martin.
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You'll have to remove tha cams, and how are you going to compress the valve springs to remove collets? :-?
I remember years ago i had a cvh escort (worst car i've ever owned :-[) but the one good thing was the ability to remove the rocker arm and compress springs in situ :)
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I thought there was a way of replacing them in situ?
Mark DTM will correct me
:)
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A small amount of oil on start up means you need to change your oil and filter.
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hi,
we have new valve seals to fit as the car is blue smoking on start up.
Is it possible to change the valve seals on a 2.6mv6 (01)without taking off the cylinder heads, by means of putting 1 cylinder at a time under compressed air to keep up the valves whilst the bucket and spring is removed, then remove the old valve seal and replace it with a new 1 and re-build up the valve assembly, then onto the next 1. has this been carried out before ? . this will save us a full cylinder heads stripdown.
regards martin.
Hi Martin...
Meh - go the whole hog - remove the heads, and change the gaskets, exhaust gaskets, etc.
You know it's all done then - and it's not much more work or expense :y
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A small amount of oil on start up means you need to change your oil and filter.
It means on a 2.6 in this year, valve stem oil seals breaked. Bad batch I heard from trusted sources.....
Mines the same too.......
:y
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I have a 2.5l with some 250k on the clock and it chucks out oil when it needs an oil change but only when to idle to long.
I just change the oil and filter and she's back to normal
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That may well be the case for you Rusty mate but I am aware that for 6 months in production of the 2.6 they changed the seals to save a penny on each one......!!!
Ridiculous but true..........
:y
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A small amount of oil on start up means you need to change your oil and filter.
:-? :-? :-? :-?
Oil leaks passed valve steals into the engine whenstops. Next time the engine is started, it gets burnt off, and appears as bluey exhaust.
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I have a 2.5l with some 250k on the clock and it chucks out oil when it needs an oil change but only when to idle to long.
I just change the oil and filter and she's back to normal
Probably glass hard valve stem seals after 250k ....
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Known issue, some low life self-abuser in the GM purchasing department managed to save a penny a seal by buying inferior products!
They were fitted for around a 9 month period adn what happens is that the stem seals come off the guides and go up and down with the valves!
Not good.
Here are a few pics of one I did recently!
The seals, faulty one on the left, new on the right.
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b394/Marks_DTM_Calib/Mick_Dundee/IMG_0197.jpg)
The state of the exhaust ports
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b394/Marks_DTM_Calib/Mick_Dundee/IMG_0168.jpg)
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b394/Marks_DTM_Calib/Mick_Dundee/IMG_0170.jpg)
I removed the heads to do this as 3.0 cams were being fitted and so they had a stage 1 port.
It can be done with the heads on (Vx have special tools for this) by applying compressed air to the cylinder and using a tool to compress the valve spring.
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....... that the stem seals come off the guides and go up and down with the valves!
Not good.
Isn't that how some older cars were original built?
...... It can be done with the heads on (Vx have special tools for this) by applying compressed air to the cylinder
I always like the idea of string fed into the bore to keep the valve held up better. :y
and using a tool to compress the valve spring.
Out of interest only .... what's it look like? And how does it hold on to the head
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....... that the stem seals come off the guides and go up and down with the valves!
Not good.
Isn't that how some older cars were original built?
Yes, as used on Rover V8's (the most over rated engine of all time!) upto the 90's where the inlet ports were the only ones with stem seals (as the inlet is the side exposed to a vaccum). These were generally just rubber washers though and not a nice bucket shape capable of forcing oil down the stem!
...... It can be done with the heads on (Vx have special tools for this) by applying compressed air to the cylinder
I always like the idea of string fed into the bore to keep the valve held up better. :y
Fine on old fashioned push rod shite with easy access to the spark plugs and huge valve stems but, the compressed air setup does work better and has much less chance of valve damage :y
and using a tool to compress the valve spring.
Out of interest only .... what's it look like? And how does it hold on to the head
Its a rod that bolts where 3 of the cam caps go and then a lever which attaches to it
There are a number of heads that go on it to aid with collet removal and fitting
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hi,
we have new valve seals to fit as the car is blue smoking on start up.
Is it possible to change the valve seals on a 2.6mv6 (01)without taking off the cylinder heads, by means of putting 1 cylinder at a time under compressed air to keep up the valves whilst the bucket and spring is removed, then remove the old valve seal and replace it with a new 1 and re-build up the valve assembly, then onto the next 1. has this been carried out before ? . this will save us a full cylinder heads stripdown.
regards martin.
Adventurous idea... :exclamation
Doubt if compressed air is good enough to withstand pressure of spring removal and replacement... :question
What if you end up with a dropped valve... :question
:-/
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Its a standard and proven method plus it works well.
I should havd added, use a depp 10mm socket and smack the top fot eh spring/collet assembly first to unstick the upper spring mount from the collets.
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Adventurous idea... :exclamation
Doubt if compressed air is good enough to withstand pressure of spring removal and replacement... :question
:-/
That's why i like the idea of the cord/string down the bore idea better .... not that I've ever tried the compressed air set up.
What if you end up with a dropped valve...
You're taking the heads off anyway! ;D ;D
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Its a standard and proven method plus it works well.
I should havd added, use a depp 10mm socket and smack the top fot eh spring/collet assembly first to unstick the upper spring mount from the collets.
Interesting, must admit i never heard of it though...
:) :y
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Adventurous idea... :exclamation
Doubt if compressed air is good enough to withstand pressure of spring removal and replacement... :question
:-/
That's why i like the idea of the cord/string down the bore idea better .... not that I've ever tried the compressed air set up.
What if you end up with a dropped valve...
You're taking the heads off anyway! ;D ;D
;D ;D ;D ;D
Personally I prefer the "old skool" take off head, replace oil seals, grind in valves... :)
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Personally I prefer the "old skool" take off head, replace oil seals, grind in valves... :)
'old skool' = 30 000 miles then! ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Hi all
regarding doing the seals in situ, we have made an adaptor for screwing into the plug hole to put the cylinder under compression, the piston will be turned up to the top by hand and kept under pressure, if a valve was to drop, hopefully the piston wont let it, and we can retreve it. If not then it will mean the head comes off.As regarding the tool to remove the valve spring were going to call in at Vx to see if they have a tool for this if not we'll make a service tool to do the job. thanks for your replies , and will let you know how it goes
regards- martin