Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Entwood on 18 May 2009, 22:30:51
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Car was MOT'd a couple of months back with no problems, and nothing at all said about the tyres. Noticed the other day whilst walking towards the beast, as I'd parked with the wheels offset, that both fronts are wearing badly on the outer edges.
Whipped it down to my local tyre shop for a basic tracking and mechanical check and they found nothing wrong - now I know they are not experts in miggy's .. but they should be able to check for wear in suspension/steering ... ?? shouldn't they ? :(
My thoughts are running along the lines of booking into WIM for a front end mechanical check for wear and tear, fix anything they find, then go back for a full geometry setup. Now this is the "cordon blue" solution... and probably the most expensive one .. but as I have no knowledge of how to check all the bits and bobs it seems to be the only way of getting a decent diagnostic done.
Unless anyone knows better ?? and can recommend someone nearer to Swindon to do the diagnostic ?? I'll still have the final geometric done at WIM, and would hope to be able to do the work myself - with advice from here !!!!
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Power steering can cause wear similar to tracking being out.
Do you turn the car on full lock on a regular basis. I used to live in a location where I would drive into my road and hook it round in one motion to face out the way I had entered.
A few months of this and the outer edges were wearing as if the tracking was out. Tracking and tyre pressure was checked regularly.
If the front wishbone bushes are worn this will allow the wheels to turn out under braking as the weight of the car is biased to the front.
I was having a Full Geo done and when I took it out to check, it would be spot on until the brakes were applied, then it would be pants.
The car was put back on the guages and it would be out. Lifting the car with the wheels free and then dropping it down and re-checking...all was spot on again.
The bushes were within the correct tollerance when checked but they were still alowing the wheels to move out. New wishbones fitted and a full geo re-done...sorted.
A full geometric, properly done is well worth it :y
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Looks like a couple of trips to WIM are coming up then .... :(
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just out of curiosity i was told my miggy needs all wheel tracking could this be true as both back tyres had inner edge wear???
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Hi Entwood, im thinking if both tires wear the same on the "outside" edge, then i would suspect the original set up. Any problem with brakes or suspension would be unlikely to cause equal and "opposite to normal" wear on both sides? Wear on the inside edge i would suspect wear and tear or to aggressive camber angle. In my experience anyway.... Do you know what the front camber angle is set to currently?
I would be interested in other opinions on the ideal camber angle. I guess when the tire is at the end of its life idealy the inside should have more wear than the outside. Mine look to be wearing evenly so far, i would maybe expect to see, and could probably afford, more wear on the inside edge to make use of more camber?
But see what others say...
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just out of curiosity i was told my miggy needs all wheel tracking could this be true as both back tyres had inner edge wear???
Could well be. Or you carry alot of weight habitually?
Edit. In the boot i ment. Sorry. :-)
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I am not convinced by all this geo stuff. I have taken to swapping the tyres round after a year or so and yes there was a bit of outer wear but as was said in an earlier post on this thread this may be to do with power steering.
Just got about 25000 out of the Michelin Pilots. decided to downgrade a bit to Dunlop SP3000A - seems fine.
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My concern is that 2 months ago the wear was even, now it is markedly not so, something has changed .. :(
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just out of curiosity i was told my miggy needs all wheel tracking could this be true as both back tyres had inner edge wear???
Could well be. Or you carry alot of weight habitually?
Edit. In the boot i ment. Sorry. :-)
He does ...... A sodding great tank of gas! :y :y :y
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as a rough check stick a spirit level on the front tyres,they should show a slightly negative camber.i set mine once at 0 degrees and found that the cornering was crap and the outer edges of the tyres started to feather.
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just out of curiosity i was told my miggy needs all wheel tracking could this be true as both back tyres had inner edge wear???
Could well be. Or you carry alot of weight habitually?
Edit. In the boot i ment. Sorry. :-)
He does ...... A sodding great tank of gas! :y :y :y
Yes, need to add the geometry set up bill to the total price of an lpg install imho. Will be doing mine again, it has had 60litre donut tank added plus mv6 front suspension and have just fitted a new vx omega rear bush. When the other bush and rear suspension is done off to wim it will go. Then new discs and that had better bloody be all it needs for a while. My back is killing me.
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I think Martin Imber fitted spring assisters to his car (non-self levelling suspenion) to help keep the car level with weight of the gas tank.
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just out of curiosity i was told my miggy needs all wheel tracking could this be true as both back tyres had inner edge wear???
Could well be. Or you carry alot of weight habitually?
Edit. In the boot i ment. Sorry. :-)
He does ...... A sodding great tank of gas! :y :y :y
Yes, need to add the geometry set up bill to the total price of an lpg install imho. Will be doing mine again, it has had 60litre donut tank added plus mv6 front suspension and have just fitted a new vx omega rear bush. When the other bush and rear suspension is done off to wim it will go. Then new discs and that had better bloody be all it needs for a while. My back is killing me.
Might be some confusion here (Thanks Andy :) )
I have wear on the FRONT tyres and an LPG tank at the back ...
Sonikhead has wear on the BACK tyres ... and I have no idea if he has a LPG or not ......
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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just out of curiosity i was told my miggy needs all wheel tracking could this be true as both back tyres had inner edge wear???
Could well be. Or you carry alot of weight habitually?
Edit. In the boot i ment. Sorry. :-)
He does ...... A sodding great tank of gas! :y :y :y
Yes, need to add the geometry set up bill to the total price of an lpg install imho. Will be doing mine again, it has had 60litre donut tank added plus mv6 front suspension and have just fitted a new vx omega rear bush. When the other bush and rear suspension is done off to wim it will go. Then new discs and that had better bloody be all it needs for a while. My back is killing me.
Might be some confusion here (Thanks Andy :) )
I have wear on the FRONT tyres and an LPG tank at the back ...
Sonikhead has wear on the BACK tyres ... and I have no idea if he has a LPG or not ......
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
So you do. I was confuddled with Chris's reply. ::) :y :y
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My concern is that 2 months ago the wear was even, now it is markedly not so, something has changed .. :(
Did you see thie tires yourself 2 months ago or are we relying on the Mot tester to spot it AND pass on the info as an advisory? I cant think of anything other than set up that would cause this? Anyone...?
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My concern is that 2 months ago the wear was even, now it is markedly not so, something has changed .. :(
Did you see thie tires yourself 2 months ago or are we relying on the Mot tester to spot it AND pass on the info as an advisory? I cant think of anything other than set up that would cause this? Anyone...?
I clean the car regularly, and check/change the tyre pressures a lot (due to towing the pikey wagon) so I think I have noticed the wear fairly quickly.
My bit about the MOT is really that they check for wear/damage etc in the suspension (don't they ??) when they stick that pry bar in and waggle it about, so if there was any bad wear in wishbones/drop links etc it would (should ?) have been picked up ?
I'm getting more convinced a trip to WIM for a full mechanical check might be the answer.
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just out of curiosity i was told my miggy needs all wheel tracking could this be true as both back tyres had inner edge wear???
Could well be. Or you carry alot of weight habitually?
Edit. In the boot i ment. Sorry. :-)
He does ...... A sodding great tank of gas! :y :y :y
Yes, need to add the geometry set up bill to the total price of an lpg install imho. Will be doing mine again, it has had 60litre donut tank added plus mv6 front suspension and have just fitted a new vx omega rear bush. When the other bush and rear suspension is done off to wim it will go. Then new discs and that had better bloody be all it needs for a while. My back is killing me.
Might be some confusion here (Thanks Andy :) )
I have wear on the FRONT tyres and an LPG tank at the back ...
Sonikhead has wear on the BACK tyres ... and I have no idea if he has a LPG or not ......
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
So you do. I was confuddled with Chris's reply. ::) :y :y
Was replying to sonichead Andy. Presumed you knew sonichead and that he had lpg. I did wonder for a minute. Anyway....
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My concern is that 2 months ago the wear was even, now it is markedly not so, something has changed .. :(
Did you see thie tires yourself 2 months ago or are we relying on the Mot tester to spot it AND pass on the info as an advisory? I cant think of anything other than set up that would cause this? Anyone...?
I clean the car regularly, and check/change the tyre pressures a lot (due to towing the pikey wagon) so I think I have noticed the wear fairly quickly.
My bit about the MOT is really that they check for wear/damage etc in the suspension (don't they ??) when they stick that pry bar in and waggle it about, so if there was any bad wear in wishbones/drop links etc it would (should ?) have been picked up ?
I'm getting more convinced a trip to WIM for a full mechanical check might be the answer.
Guess so. Worth a jack and wiggle first? You might spot something. But you dont mention any change in the way the car drives, i take it you have not noticed any pulling or steering wheel out of centre? No different feel at the wheel. Would have thought it would stand out from normal driving if its come on quickly. Wim say to check bushes idler and springs as im sure you know.
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My concern is that 2 months ago the wear was even, now it is markedly not so, something has changed .. :(
Did you see thie tires yourself 2 months ago or are we relying on the Mot tester to spot it AND pass on the info as an advisory? I cant think of anything other than set up that would cause this? Anyone...?
I clean the car regularly, and check/change the tyre pressures a lot (due to towing the pikey wagon) so I think I have noticed the wear fairly quickly.
My bit about the MOT is really that they check for wear/damage etc in the suspension (don't they ??) when they stick that pry bar in and waggle it about, so if there was any bad wear in wishbones/drop links etc it would (should ?) have been picked up ?
I'm getting more convinced a trip to WIM for a full mechanical check might be the answer.
Guess so. Worth a jack and wiggle first? You might spot something. But you dont mention any change in the way the car drives, i take it you have not noticed any pulling or steering wheel out of centre? No different feel at the wheel. Would have thought it would stand out from normal driving if its come on quickly. Wim say to check bushes idler and springs as im sure you know.
Car handling does not appear to have changed at all. Springs have been checked visually, the "jack and wiggle" approach will only work if you know what to wiggle and how much :) .. in my case I know neither !! As to checking bushes and idlers .... havn't got a scoobie !!
So WIM it is .. I'll phone 'em Thursday :)
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Had a full geometric done this afternoon and the car is now spot on. No pitching in corners, no tramlining and no pulling to the left.
Full laser set up used and then went round the car again "old school style", checking the tracking with a calibrated metal rod and a calibrated angle bubble guage for the camber.
£50.00 well spent :y
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The beast is booked into WIM for next Tuesday for a full check over ... wonder what they'll find .. :(
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.....CUT......
My concern is that 2 months ago the wear was even, now it is markedly not so, something has changed .. :(
......CUT......
My bit about the MOT is really that they check for wear/damage etc in the suspension (don't they ??) when they stick that pry bar in and waggle it about, so if there was any bad wear in wishbones/drop links etc it would (should ?) have been picked up ?
Unfortunately the MOT tester is only checking for excessive wear, which is down to personal opinion.
Incidentally, having spoken at length with the guy who does my MOT's he told me that they have to buy Pass/Fail/Advisory paperwork in one pack, which only contains about 10 advisory sheets :o :o :o I wonder if this has any effect on testers issuing advisories? :-/ :-/ :-? :-?
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I had a chat with my MOT guy about acceptable levels of play in suspension when I got the Westfield done this year (computer insists on him taking 50 minutes to do the test when it only takes him 15 minutes to get round it!).
I came away thinking that it'd be dificult to keep the damned thing on the road before he'd fail anything for play. ;D
Kevin
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have a similar problem, but my mechanic told me it's beacuse I carry 120ltr LPG tang in the boot. Got the tracking done last summer and that improved things a little... still... have to take turns at the lower speed :))))
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have a similar problem, but my mechanic told me it's beacuse I carry 120ltr LPG tang in the boot. Got the tracking done last summer and that improved things a little... still... have to take turns at the lower speed :))))
That must have been a squeeze :o :o :o :o
My 90L only just fitted under the bose shelf, although I could have gone longer (100L) if I'd needed to but I think it would have been a real pain fitting it
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.....CUT......
My concern is that 2 months ago the wear was even, now it is markedly not so, something has changed .. :(
......CUT......
My bit about the MOT is really that they check for wear/damage etc in the suspension (don't they ??) when they stick that pry bar in and waggle it about, so if there was any bad wear in wishbones/drop links etc it would (should ?) have been picked up ?
Unfortunately the MOT tester is only checking for excessive wear, which is down to personal opinion.
Incidentally, having spoken at length with the guy who does my MOT's he told me that they have to buy Pass/Fail/Advisory paperwork in one pack, which only contains about 10 advisory sheets :o :o :o I wonder if this has any effect on testers issuing advisories? :-/ :-/ :-? :-?
'Excessive' is the word for MOT level, both of my Omega's passed their MOT's as far as wishbone bushes are concerned, both had new wishbones fitted months later by WIM due to excessive play in the bushes meaning that the Geometry couldn't be set.
The difference in handling is very noticable.
My current car has now had complete front and rear suspension replaced and drives and handles totally differently to the original 65K suspension it sat on.
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have a similar problem, but my mechanic told me it's beacuse I carry 120ltr LPG tang in the boot. Got the tracking done last summer and that improved things a little... still... have to take turns at the lower speed :))))
That must have been a squeeze :o :o :o :o
My 90L only just fitted under the bose shelf, although I could have gone longer (100L) if I'd needed to but I think it would have been a real pain fitting it
Checked capacity independently couple of times :) Couldn't believe it. It's polish make. Said to be a very good one :)
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Okies .. back from WIM .... reason for my tyre wear is very simple ..and why the local idiots couldn't see it is amazing ......
Worn wishbone bushes. Nowt else. Drop links/springs/other stuff all checked out as good .. just the wishbones knackered.
So, best place/price for wishbones ?? and can I do them myself ???
Off to see if I can find a "how-to" ... but any advice gratefuly accepted :)
EDIT :: found this thread
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1242763288
and following Mark DTM's advice been onto autovaux ... a pair of Lemforder wishbones + required bolts are on their way .. :)
Also found this "how to"
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1152986949
is there anything else I need/should know ???
EDIT #2
Reading the "book of lies" (Haynes) there is no mention of wishbones.. is the posh name "Front Lower Suspension Arm" ??
Pretty please .. :)
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Okies .. back from WIM .... reason for my tyre wear is very simple ..and why the local idiots couldn't see it is amazing ......
Worn wishbone bushes. Nowt else. Drop links/springs/other stuff all checked out as good .. just the wishbones knackered.
So, best place/price for wishbones ?? and can I do them myself ???
Off to see if I can find a "how-to" ... but any advice gratefuly accepted :)
Looks like it will be the same for me too then :'(
Luckily i already have them, i bought pattern can't remember how much. Not a lot....
Think i will chuck mine in the boot and ask WIM to replace them.
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Reading the "book of lies" (Haynes) there is no mention of wishbones.. is the posh name "Front Lower Suspension Arm" ??
Pretty please .. :)
Yep - I suppose they probably give it a 1 out of 5 do they? :-/;D
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Reading the "book of lies" (Haynes) there is no mention of wishbones.. is the posh name "Front Lower Suspension Arm" ??
Pretty please .. :)
Yep - I suppose they probably give it a 1 out of 5 do they? :-/;D
3 out of 5 for difficulty .. :(
I'm probably being daft .. but memory (senility?? ) seems to say something being written about all the torquing up being done with the weight on the wheels ?? but no mention in either the "how-to" or the book of lies ... am I confusing this with something else ???
and how long to do ... remembering I've never done the job before ??
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I've fitted heavy duty BMW 5 Series E34 upper front control arm bushes to my Omega in place of the Boge wishbone pivot bushes.
I think they're made by Febi Bilstein and can be had for a tenner each + p&p from a guy on eBay called zeldautos.
He'll list them for you if there's none showing.
They are a superior design and a perfect fit. Expect them to last many times longer than standard cr*p.
They virtually eliminate toe-out under braking, which is what destroys the inner edges of the front tyres in such a short time.
When fitting make sure the arrow on the bush points towards the centre of the car with the arm horizontal.
This will transform the feel of the steering to something like you would expect these cars to drive.
Also check the steering idler for vertical play, which will aggravate the situation if it's worn.
New GM wishbones are available from Vauxhall car parts at £23.95 inc VAT.
They're on this catalogue page
http://www.vauxhall-car-parts.co.uk/acatalog/Omega-Front-axle.html
Could even be worth fitting BMW bushes to these at that price.
When tightening the pivot bolts either hold the arm as near to horizontal as possible before fitting the bottom ball joint pin into the suspension, or leave them slack and do it with the weight of the car on the ground.
The former is easier - you just need the arm nearly horizontal when tightening to avoid pre loading the bush and causing premature failure.
Regards
Martyn H
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The last time I did a set I used a pair of ramps and sat 2 people in the car to make it sit down. Loads more space to torque up properly then - the height makes a negligible difference IMO :y
EDIT:
New GM wishbones are available from Vauxhall car parts at £23.95 inc VAT.
They're on this catalogue page
http://www.vauxhall-car-parts.co.uk/acatalog/Omega-Front-axle.html
It does say they are Vauxhall parts, but I would be very surprised if they are at that price. I understood than genuine ones were very pricey :-/
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3 out of 5 for difficulty .. :(
I'm probably being daft .. but memory (senility?? ) seems to say something being written about all the torquing up being done with the weight on the wheels ?? but no mention in either the "how-to" or the book of lies ... am I confusing this with something else ???
and how long to do ... remembering I've never done the job before ??
The front bushes need to be done up, officially, with the car on its' wheels, on level ground, with 50Kg on each front seat IIRC. This means the rubber material in the bush is not twisted at rest and is less likely to fail early. They can be nipped up on the ground and then torqued when raised if clearance is an issue.
The rearmost bushes on the wishbones can be torqued up when jacked up.
It's not a hard job but the bottom balljoint can be a little challenging to remove from the stub axle. Start appying some plus gas daily a week before you start the job and have a crowbar, a large screwdriver and a decent "persuader" handy.
There is an odd sized socket or two required, as well, so make sure you have a set that covers up to 25mm or so without any "gaps".
Be careful that the rear bush retaining bolt doesn't drop into the chassis box section and disappear when removing / reassembling.
Kevin
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3 out of 5 for difficulty .. :(
I'm probably being daft .. but memory (senility?? ) seems to say something being written about all the torquing up being done with the weight on the wheels ?? but no mention in either the "how-to" or the book of lies ... am I confusing this with something else ???
and how long to do ... remembering I've never done the job before ??
The front bushes need to be done up, officially, with the car on its' wheels, on level ground, with 50Kg on each front seat IIRC. This means the rubber material in the bush is not twisted at rest and is less likely to fail early. They can be nipped up on the ground and then torqued when raised if clearance is an issue.
The rearmost bushes on the wishbones can be torqued up when jacked up.
It's not a hard job but the bottom balljoint can be a little challenging to remove from the stub axle. Start appying some plus gas daily a week before you start the job and have a crowbar, a large screwdriver and a decent "persuader" handy.
There is an odd sized socket or two required, as well, so make sure you have a set that covers up to 25mm or so without any "gaps".
Be careful that the rear bush retaining bolt doesn't drop into the chassis box section and disappear when removing / reassembling.
Kevin
Many thanks for that, nowt in the book of lies or the how-to about the torquing up, just seemed to remember reading something about it ... at least you've cleared it up for me :)
Tool-kit is the halfords pro one .. so hopefully has all the needed sockets.
The bottom ball joint/plusgas treatment .. anywhere in particular or just a general soak of the area ??
Other points noted with thanks :) Hopefully I should be able to do both sides in a day ?
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Tool-kit is the halfords pro one .. so hopefully has all the needed sockets.
Should be OK. 21mm Spark plug socket is handy on the rear of the two wishbone bushes - a bit more reach.
The bottom ball joint/plusgas treatment .. anywhere in particular or just a general soak of the area ??
There's a pin on the ball joint that goes into the bottom of the stub axle, and a pinch bolt that clamps it there. Both could do with some as they are both tight to remove IME.
Hopefully I should be able to do both sides in a day ?
Yep. Should be no problem. To release the bottom balljoint pin from the stub axle, remove pinch bolt, wedge a screwdriver into the crack in the stub axle to open it up a tad, then load up the joint by using a crowbar or similar between ball joint body and stub axle, and clout the crowbar to shock it loose.
Kevin
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Both my Omegas need tyres asap...
Need 6 infact in total! :'( My list of expences goes on... and on... and on. :-/
Keep telling myself that they are worth it ::).
Must admit I am having second thoughts :-?
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hmmm. Am i the only one that thinks wear on the outside edge is unusual for wishbone bush failure? Sounds like i am? Would think they would toe out not toe in?
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or would toe issues scrub the whole surface..?
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Well both wishbones changed ... what a pig of a job :( Took about 3 hours longer than I planned/expected :(
Problems :
Drivers side - Followed the "how to" and all came off very easily, much to my surprise. Then to put the new one on ... :( Discovered you need 4 hands to hold the shock absorber out of the way while you line up the rear bolt, eventually got it lined up with the bolt the "wrong" way, just like the how to says ... then everytime I took the bolt out the damned thing moved so it wouldn't drop in from above ... :( took the damned thing off and on 3 times before I got it to work ... only to discover I'd used the long bolt instead of the short one ... ARRRGGGH ... so battle recommenced, got there eventually.
Passenger side : Top bolt of the two on the shock absorber would not move ... sought advice ...WIM ... they said you can do it without undoing those bolts, just makes it slightly trickier ... they don't joke do they !! So got all the bolts undone but the rear did NOT want to come apart.
Eventually managed to drag it out ... so we try to put the new one in ... not a hope ... eventually realised the problem was the antiroll bar was not allowing me to lift the wishbone flat enough.
So a bit of ingenuity, got some wood and built a little stack from the trolley jack to the bottom of the suspension strut, and lifted gently .. sure enough as the spring compressed the antiroll bar moved up with it ... enough to get the wishbone in sweet as a nut .. wish I'd thought of that both on the drivers side and when trying to remove this one.
So get both front and rear bolts in nicely, just have to line up the bottom ball joint .. HAH ... with the steering knuckle still attached there was no way it would line up properly ... well and truly frustrated after 45 minutes of trying..... Now all this time I had been soaking the stuck top bolt in plus-gas, knowing that it would need to be loose for the geometry setup. So I got my large torque wrench, put in undo mode, braced my back against a stack made of 2 wheels and 2 toolboxes, put my feet against it and pushed ... bloody hard .. it was either going to undo or shear. It undid !! So with the knuckle off it was easy to pop the bottom ball joint in then reassemble the knuckle to the suspension leg.
I left both front and rear bolts both sides loose, but torqued everything else up - I couldn't find a torque setting for the pinch bolt.... so I used 35 NM ... is that enough ??
Once everything else was back together I stacked tool boxes, trolly jack, axle stands in the passenger wheel well and got SWMBO to sit in the drivers seat while I torqued up those bolts.
What a pain ..... I couldn't see enough to do the angle tightening the book of lies refers to ... so I did 120 NM followed by 130 NM ... is that tight enough do you think ??
Car is booked in to WIM for 2 new boots and a full geometry next Thursday, if the tyres get worse between now and then I don't really care !!!! I made no attempt whatsover to set any camber angles ... The bolts just went in and tight !!
My thoughts are to get WIM to move the rear tyres (1/2 worn) to the front and to put new ones on the back, then do the geometry .. does that sound sensible ??
Now all I have to do is decide which tyres ... Dunlop Sports 6xxx or Pilot Primacy seem to get good write ups on the forum .. any other ideas from anyone ??? I don't drive it in F1.. but I do sometimes hit the loud switch, so I want some decent grip but a reasonably hardwearing tyre.
I am now going to rub germolene into all the places the car has bittten me .. and have a very cold beer ... :)
(Sorry for the lengthy of the post .. :( )
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Well done Nige. All common problems - and all become easier when you've done it a few times :y
Re the pinch bolt - can't remember but, that sounds low... :y
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My thoughts are to get WIM to move the rear tyres (1/2 worn) to the front and to put new ones on the back, then do the geometry .. does that sound sensible ??
When I asked Tony about doing that he said he didn't recomend moving tyres from front to back or visa versa as they tend to take on a profile that is defined by the suspension (look at the camber of the rear compared to the fronts).
I guess if you ask 100 people about tyres you'll get 100 different answers, all i'll say is my preference is for Dunlop Sport 9090's.
Well done with all the hard work :y, I have to say I took the easy option last time and supplied the parts to WIM and let them do it while I drank Tea! ::) :)
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Any of the "experts" any comments on :
Pinch bolt torque .. is 35 NM enough ?? if not what should i t be ??
Front and rear wishbone bolts .. unable to see to angle tighten so did to 120 NM then 130 NM .. is this OK ??
Don't want to leave them unsafe as I've got 200 miles to do on Monday and another 90 to WIM on Thursday .. :)
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I can't help thinking that pinch bolt needs to be more than 35nm - but I can't tell you specifically what, from memory...
Is Mr Haynes any use?
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more than adequate. :y
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more than adequate. :y
Fair enough :y
Long time no see Mr Sassanach - how is that STS?
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Mr Haynes doesn't list a "pinch bolt" .. and I'm not sure what else to call it ... options are (as best as I can work it out)
Lower ball joint to arm... 35 NM (thats the one I went for)
Lower ball joint to knuckle ... 100 NM ( should it be this one ?? )
Lower suspension arm pivot bolt (120 NM + 2 angle tightens) .. (I guessed these were the front/rear wishbone bolts)
:(
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Thank you Mr Sassenach ... puts my mind at ease greatly :)
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Mr Haynes doesn't list a "pinch bolt" .. and I'm not sure what else to call it ... options are (as best as I can work it out)
Lower ball joint to arm... 35 NM (thats the one I went for)
Lower ball joint to knuckle ... 100 NM ( should it be this one ?? )
Lower suspension arm pivot bolt (120 NM + 2 angle tightens) .. (I guessed these were the front/rear wishbone bolts)
:(
I'd have thought the knuckle one, sure someone else will confirm.. :y
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100nm is approx 75 ft lbs that will be way to much for that little pinch bolt
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i would also point out that the bolt lines up with a groove in the ball joint
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the sts is fine,as a sidenote (not wishing to hijack this thread)the stag 300 lpg kit is rated to 300hp,rubbish,i had to change out the vapouriser for a omvl hp one.goes like s@@t of a shovel on gas now
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the sts is fine,as a sidenote (not wishing to hijack this thread)the stag 300 lpg kit is rated to 300hp,rubbish,i had to change out the vapouriser for a omvl hp one.goes like s@@t of a shovel on gas now
It went like something off a shovel when I was in it ;D ;D
Where does one buy such a beautiful car :y
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they are quite common and like most thirsty big tanks worth very little.
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the sts is fine,as a sidenote (not wishing to hijack this thread)the stag 300 lpg kit is rated to 300hp,rubbish,i had to change out the vapouriser for a omvl hp one.goes like s@@t of a shovel on gas now
The Stag's vapour pressure drops pretty markedly when powering a 3.2 on full chat. Wouldn't fancy one on anything more powerful.
Kevin
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coming back on thread i must admit im a little mystified how duff wishbones wear the tyres on the outside?
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coming back on thread i must admit im a little mystified how duff wishbones wear the tyres on the outside?
If Entwood was not so sure of the sudden change in wear, i would suspect the original set up...? Esp strange that both sides would appear to alter/wear at the same rate(i presume)? Whats the odds on that?
Entwood, when i changed my front shocks i use an 11mill socket as a feeler gauge(diameter, not length) between the shock body and rim. If you want to use that as a guide you shouldnt be too far out as my set up was bog on. Didnt need adjustment. We have the same socket set iirc. Bit of a fiddle though as it took a couple of attempts and i kept dropping the socket on the hub assembly.
Re vapourisor. Where from and how much? Mine has a very pronounced hic up. Sometimes shows when changing from 3rd to 4th(auto box) or when lifting off the throttle at high revs in a high gear. Can be avoided by lifting off gently, not always possible.
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Thread Hijack!!!!
I thought the Stag Vaporiser was rated to 270bhp :-/ :-/ :-/
Anyway.... Chris, I'm surprised you have a problem like that. Mine runs seamlessly except for the 1st-2nd change (which was easily overcome by switching to petrol) and I'm sure Kevin's doesn't hiccup like that. I wonder if it's a limitation caused by the Vertical Torroidal Tank :-? :-? :-/ :-/
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Back from WIM and very helpful they were too :y :y :y
Seems I got lucky with the camber settings after the wishbone change .. almost spot on :) Full geometry done and a clean bill of health for the chassis alignement and other bits.
2 new tyres - they recommended Avon ZV5XL so I agreed, asked them to rebalance the 2 old ones just to make sure everything was fine ... and thats when the bad news started ......
Off came the first rear for balancing, still has a couple of months wear I thought ... and they agreed ... so off came the second ..... "did you know you have a nail in this ?? " :( It's leaking slowly, in the shoulder, and not worth repairing ... so I said replace those tyres as well. :(
They then discover they only had the 2 Avons which are now fitted .. so they did me a deal on 2 Falken FK542 ... which I thought was very good of them.
Then the guy says ... "did you know one of your rear pads is almost nothing ???" ... so I look and decide to drive home without using the brakes if I can !!! Go via the stealers for some new pads. Big debate over which pads I should have, and they only have the ones I think are wrong in stock anyway ... so I take them with a phone number to call if they are wrong. (more details/questions in another thread)
So wishbones (£125), geometry + 4 new tyres (£450) plus either £20 if its the cheap pads or £50 if its the others, and the car is sitting undriveable with no pads in !! :(
Still, it did handle far better on the way home than I ever thought, especially as I thought it handled well anyway !!! Be interesting to chuck her about a bit once the brakes are sorted .. :)
And this whole saga started with some unusual tyre wear !!!
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Glad your back to full health bar the pads. :-)
Would be interesting to have a look at those old wishbones...do you know how old they where? Did you have a look at the knuckle joint(play) and bushes splits/tears? Strange one this imho.
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Glad your back to full health bar the pads. :-)
Would be interesting to have a look at those old wishbones...do you know how old they where? Did you have a look at the knuckle joint(play) and bushes splits/tears? Strange one this imho.
They are still in the garage, I was going to take em to the tip next week . If you want any photo's tell me of what !!! AFAIK they were the original fit, so 86,000 miles. The guys at WIM told me the front bushes (the horizontal bolt ones) were shot, and they look cracked/split to me. I'll try and get some piccies for you.
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fair enough, they needed replacicing, just my experience seems different to your symptoms, would expect the wheels to point toward 10 and 2 o clock(toe out) rather than both towards 12 o clock.(tow in) ...... I think? Maybe just me?
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Brakes all done .. mobile again ... :)
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1244128955/0#13
Thanks to everyone for advice & help