Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: valliant72 on 03 June 2009, 21:20:32
-
Where do i start, this car has been a nightmare. Now the revs stay up when put into gear and when slowing down its though the revs are high pushing the car. The other day after a journey it wouldnt start and took a couple of tries. Ive changed nearly every sensor on this car all but the knock sensors(the car pinks also) The throttle body and breathers have been cleaned. The are no codes except 12 and 135. Ive changed the maf sensor, both lambdas, cam sensor, crank sensor although wasnt vauxhall one, icv, fuel filter, dispack, leads and plugs. The gear changes are a little harsh now and then. Im at a loss what to do the car has 66600 miles on it and a service history. Cam belt and cam covers where done last year. Im at the point of just scrapping it, as its becoming a money pit.
-
can you update your profile or tell us exactly what you drive. I'm struggling to understand code 12 and 135.
Don't spend anything more on the car, start from methodically addressing the issues you have. with the collective brains here, you'll get to the bottom of it.
let's start with 12 and 135 and go from there
-
I know 12 is the start of the code sequence and 135 it telltale voltage low, but told to ignore that.
-
12 is the start of sequence
135 is telltale light voltage low
Neither are anything to worry about.
Is the gearbox auto or manual?
-
I'm wondering if the cam timing is out on one or two of the banks? if it were it may cause the problem you have.. who did the belt?
-
The cars is an Auto and Vauxhall did the cam belt and tensioners. The only thing im suspecting is the left bank knock sensor. The wire is completely jammed tight against the 1 1/2 inch dia' water pipe that comes out that side. Whether this was done when vauxhall did the cam covers i dont know, although thinking about it my trouble started when i got it back from vauxhalls. Ive tried freeing the wire but its completely jammed stuck, whether the heat from the pipe has damaged the wire i dont know but no knock sensor fault code has ever come up.
-
The cars is an Auto and Vauxhall did the cam belt and tensioners. The only thing im suspecting is the left bank knock sensor. The wire is completely jammed tight against the 1 1/2 inch dia' water pipe that comes out that side. Whether this was done when vauxhall did the cam covers i dont know, although thinking about it my trouble started when i got it back from vauxhalls. Ive tried freeing the wire but its completely jammed stuck, whether the heat from the pipe has damaged the wire i dont know but no knock sensor fault code has ever come up.
ok, first of all you have changed loads of sensors on this. Remember a sensor will show a fault either when it is working correctly and has detected something not working correctly OR when the sensor fails. So for example you may get a lambda sensor fault code, not because the sensor is at fault but because the cat is failing or such like.
knock sensors are directly related to detecting pre-ignition or pinking. so, focus attention on BOTH knock sensors, check the wiring as you suspect, PLUS make sure that the left and right hand bank are not swapped
-
Thanks for your replies, i'll take a closer look at the Knock sensors.
-
Changed the passenger side knock sensor as i could not get it to budge, the wire looks totally crushed. Symptoms are still the same, the revs dont seem to take ages to come down, when they do its at 500 rpm. when u start it, it revs up and takes a while to come back down, even when in gear and slowing its like the revs are holding on. Its never stalled just wouldnt start on one occasion. Whether this is the crank sensor being as it wasnt original GM. Also the rev needle bounces on the 500 rpm now and then.
-
makes me think air leak...revs rising usually is ime.
check the inlets from maf to plenum that the jubilee clips are tight and correctly seated, worth checking maf is plugged in fully / unplug the maf and see if it runs better, (although i realise you have no maf code... :-/) vx will have to have removed the intakes to do the belt but not the plenum unless its a mini face lift long plenum in which case check thats seated correctly on the pegs and o rings are not pinched.
may also need to check cam timing with a kit.
ultimately iwould not spend any more cash until you can correctly diagnose the issue which may mean tech 2...? But not at vx...i guess with your location that means brackley or alton which is a bit of a treck from the smoke( and steam when i was there last weekend, what a total pita that place is to get around)
-
also check the tick over valve is seated corrrectly and not letting extra air in that the maf has not measured
hth :-/
-
thanks for your replies. i'll have a look for air leaks again, incase i missed any. thinking back i had a similar problem on my 3.0 senator, turned out to be the throttle position sensor. i dont think the omega tps has a micro switch though.
-
But pinking suggests ignition timing is not right which is not consistent with an air leak. I would also now suggest checking the cam timing. Making sure the belt etc is aligned
-
sorry to be a pain with this car, well the idle now sits dead on 500 rpm with no fluctuation until its in gear then it rises to about 600rpm. the only thing now is when i start the car it revs to about 1500 rpm then slowly returns to idle can take up to 10 secs or more this is either hot or cold the same happens. i did reseal the icv and changed the plugs, plugs did look a lil sooty but not severe. it just doenst seem to start like it used to with about 800 rpm then die down to idle. i checked for vacuum leaks in all the small piping coming from the brake servo pipe and all was good, also check all piping from the air filter box all is secure. is there anything VX could of disturbed when they did the rocker covers that im missing, i did change the plenum seals. Could the Crank sensor cause these symptoms as it wasnt an original VX replacement? Thanks :)
-
sounds a bit like it is going through a cold start procedure. i seem to remember mine runs at about 1,500 when really cold but only then. Am wondering if a temp sensor has been disturbed. I'm no expert here but I *think* there are two temp sensors: one for the coolant temp dial and another feeds the ECU. Maybe it has been disturbed....