Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: star_whites on 23 August 2009, 18:43:54
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Ok heres another update.
I purchased a brand new Cranksensor from my local vx dealer on saturday morning so decided to get it chagned whilst it was nice today.
I disconnected the old one, remvoed it and fitted the new one in place with no problems. Rebuild and refitted everything and started. Started first turn and sounded much sweeter. Loaded up with rubbish and went to local tip. Drove ok all the way there and whilst sat in waiting in the long stream of garden fanatics!!
Left tip and drove 1 mile to petrol station and whilst waiting to get onto the pump she stalled. Started her up and had no problem all the way home.
Once home I checked for fault codes and got the following. 12, 31 & 129. I know 12 is just test initiation however as far as Im aware 31 is Engine RPM signal (Crankshaft Sensor) No Signal??????? This is brand new and the eml is not on all the time. Am I missing something here. Also I have just changed the EGR valve for one off a perfect runner so surely this aint packed up so quickly.
Any ideas anyone as this is doing my head in! :-[
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31 is just No RPM which you get anyway on the V6 when paperclipping. So this is normal and nothing to worry about
19 is Crank sensor.
:y
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Codes 12 & 31 normal for V6 with engine NOT running - crank sensor will not pick up a signal from Stationary engine!
Code 129? - don,t know - thought EGR codes 132 - 134.
[edit] Stand corrected Code 129 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Feedback Voltage Low [/edit]
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Ok so I will get 12 and 19 when the engine aint running so it looks like its just the 129 thats the issue. I though the egr was 132/133/134 but somone told me 129 is also egr but it isnt on the list I have.
Ive double checked and it is definatly 129 that is coming up so comone guys whats 129 :-?
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Codes 12 & 31 normal for V6 with engine NOT running - crank sensor will not pick up a signal from Stationary engine!
Code 129? - don,t know - thought EGR codes 132 - 134.
[edit] Stand corrected Code 129 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Feedback Voltage Low [/edit]
What he said ::)
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Shouldn't get 19 when engine not running AFAIK. Should be 12 and 31 with engine not running. 19 is Crank Sensor :y
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Code 129 = Exhaust gas recurculation (egr) feedback Voltage low.
Check the cabel is ok and the plug is clean and sitting correct
as above codes 12, 31 are nothing to worry about there normal, and only worry about code 19 if you get it. :y
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I had 19 before thats why I changed the crank sensor. The RAC man disconnected the egr when my partner had problems with it stalling in london and tie wrapped the cable back.
Whats the easiest way of testing the cable????
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I had 19 before thats why I changed the crank sensor. The RAC man disconnected the egr when my partner had problems with it stalling in london and tie wrapped the cable back.
Whats the easiest way of testing the cable????
That'll be why you have code 129. Which means you don't really have any codes to worry about. Although I wonder if the stored 129 could be causing an issue and would benefit from being cleared via Tech2?
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Well I reconnected the egr when she got home and have since fitted another egr from a known running engine with no faults.
I also thought that once a problem is fixed the fault codes will clear themselves so no need for a tech 2 :-?
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Depends on the problem .... some clear instantly .. like your 19, others need 20 or so starts, others need a tech 2 but those are mostly the seatbelt/airbag ones
HTH
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I also thought that once a problem is fixed the fault codes will clear themselves so no need for a tech 2 :-?
You're confusing 'clearing the code' with putting the EML light out. you can have eg 0302 - misfire on No 2 put the EML on & it runs light a bag of poo. Fix the fault, the EML goes out, but if you flash the code up or Tech II it 0302 will still be there untill either cleared by a code reader or 20 'clean' starts clears the ECU's memory.
A Entwood says, you can have a fault on the SRS/air bag sytem which puts the light on. You get the code read, repair the fault and but light will stay on till TechII or similar has rest it.
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Ok so certain faults have to be cleared by a techII and others clear on their own after a while. I will wait and see what happens as to if it clears after a while.
Also on another note does anyone know if you have a faulty coil pack will that bring up a fault code??
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Ok so certain faults have to be cleared by a techII and others clear on their own after a while. I will wait and see what happens as to if it clears after a while.
Also on another note does anyone know if you have a faulty coil pack will that bring up a fault code??
In a word 'NO' ;) :y
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Ummm interesting. The reason I ask is when the engine is running it ticks over quite nicely but as soon as you put on some revs it makes a ticking noise quite loudly which increases the more power you give it. Now at first I thought it was the manifold leaking, however this has been removed, new gasket and refitted but it is still there so now its got me wondering what else it could be. Its had new leads and new plugs so can pretty much rule them out but may be worth trying another coil pack if I can get hold of one on the cheap. Once tried I will buy a new one but have already spent a fortune on parts I dont need ::) ;D
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Ummm interesting. The reason I ask is when the engine is running it ticks over quite nicely but as soon as you put on some revs it makes a ticking noise quite loudly which increases the more power you give it. Now at first I thought it was the manifold leaking, however this has been removed, new gasket and refitted but it is still there so now its got me wondering what else it could be. Its had new leads and new plugs so can pretty much rule them out but may be worth trying another coil pack if I can get hold of one on the cheap. Once tried I will buy a new one but have already spent a fortune on parts I dont need ::) ;D
Dont know if yours has a similar stainless steel egr pipe,but when mine started making a noise like a blowing manifold,it turned out to be the end of the EGR pipe had broken off where it sits against the manifold.Was impossible to see because the end's inside the bracket that holds it on but when checking it(once cooled!) i found i could pull it out a bit away from the manifold because the very end where it widens out had cracked and broke off.
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The laud ticking could be a number of things,
on your manifold you have two gaskets if I'm right. one for the exhaust down pipe and one for the manifold.
it could be the tappets ( wrong name I know but i'm an old git lol) that they are sticking a bit. you could try an oil change and see if its any better.
I would say its one of the four gaskets or you have a crack in one of your manifolds / downpipes.
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Just to clarify a few things:
19 - knackered crank sensor (99% of time)
31 - if engine starts, ignore. If engine won't start, non clonclusive.
On non-DBW cars, HT (DIS/Leads/plugs) do not bring up any meaningful fault code. On DBW cars, there are a few codes and tests that can help pinpoint ht issues.
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Ok without sounding too thick here what DBW????
The crank sensor has just been changed for a gen vx one on sunday morning so thats ok. I replaced the idle control valve and egr valve with ones off a known good runner. However the stalling has returned once again.
I drove home with no issues but as soon as I restarted after being sat an hour she started and immediatly stalled. Started again and sounded as if was only firing on 3/4 cylinders and stalled, started again and reved and sounded ok but had to keep the revs at 900 to prevent stall. Drove 1/2 mile home with it stalling every time I removed the foot from the accelerator.
Im now wondering if it is the coil pack and that it only does it when hot as it runs fine when cold. Any ideas on this theory???? :-?
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Oh yeah I do no that the backbox is knackered as this is on order from eternalcar. One of the tailpipes fell off so she sounds like a tank and you can move the baffles around with your fingers but I cant see how this will affect the engine running as the gases are definatly escaping!
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WHat does it idle at with a/c off (when it does idle without stalling), and is the idle steady?
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It idles great nearly all the time (aircon on/off).
It appears that she only stalls after shes been sat for a while when hot. Thats whats confusing me. Im begining to wonder if its the coil pack breaking down when hot but I have no idea. Its really annoying and I have some serious miles to do soon so Id like to sort it sooner rather than later.