Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: spikerz on 20 August 2009, 13:01:32
-
As my last post asking for help with my stalling problem got no replies,and I've discovered something new,i thought I'd have one last try.
I explained how when ticking over, the revs drop and it stalls when put into drive/reverse, turn steering or switch on certain electrics e.g rear window heater.
Just today i noticed if i give it a quick rev, (before i put in gear or switch something on that usually stalls it),it doesn't stall,nor do the revs drop (as much or at all)
(by a quick rev i mean just a touch,say from idle which is approx 700 and up to just 800 ish and let it return to idle ,which it does quickly.)
After clearing codes,64-fuel quantity control out of range comes straight back after running and 19-incorrect rpm sometimes re-appears after a run.
I replaced the crank sensor (which wasn't new but came off a perfect running omega)
I have also replaced the lift pump(drained and cleaned tank,fresh fuel,fuel filter-diesel magic,air filter,vacuum pipes,battery and alternator,checked/cleaned EGR and all earths I could find.
Nothing has made a difference to the stalling although it starts first time,ticks over and runs great.
What could be the cause of code 64?
I have already reluctantly decided to get rid of it which I'm not too happy about because its otherwise great to drive and without the stalling it would be my ideal car.But i am really sick of it now,and cant afford garage bills.
I really appreciate the help and advice I've had already but can if anyone can help with this?..before i end up having to drive around in the likes of a Citroen xantia(again) ..Please. :'(
-
64 is the injection pump.
If not done already, try a can of neat diesel magic in the fuel filter (also worth replacing if older than 1 yr), then repeating again in a few days
-
i have replaced the filter and filled with diesel magic as advised on here,once about 4 weeks ago then again after i changed lift pump,drained tank etc.
Been reading up on the VP 37 injection pump and seen a post about changing the temperature sensor inside the top cover.apparently"The ECU reads the temperature sensor and alters the injection quantity and start of injection to suit the mass of the fuel"
I don't know if this sensor could be the fault(as there's also solenoids/valves to do with fuel quantity in the pump) but I am now convinced it is a fueling at idle fault as you said in one of my earlier posts, just not sure what to try next.
Replacing the pump would surely be a big and expensive job.
-
Oooerr .......
Don't know what to advise here, but I had no option last year other than to get the pump changed, at a tad over 1200 quid.
(Must've been mad, but now that it's also been chipped, it's a new car - literally!).
-
If you say that code 19 has reappeared then the second hand crank sensor that you fitted is fuberd, when you removed and refitted to your engine that may have been enough to damage the cable, the cable is fitted behind the oil cooler pipes at the factory and this heat is enough to cook the wire, so when you disturb the cable the sensor becomes faulty. Fit a new c/s and hopefully that should improve things.
-
Spikerz is running a Tractor engine, V6 has the crank sensor wire trapped by the cooler pipes
Andy
-
Have you seen my eyes on my avatar ;D sorry still think the c/s is knackered. but i see my mistake. :y
-
;D ;D :D
-
code 19 is back now,as well as 64.
-
Have you seen my eyes on my avatar ;D sorry still think the c/s is knackered. but i see my mistake. :y
The cs on tractors is just the sensor, not sensor with dodgy GM wiring like the v6 one.
To the OP, is the cranksensor fully home?
-
The crank sensor on the 2.5td has a bracket with an elongated hole for the bolt so it can be adjusted before tightening the bolt.(http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af191/spikerz_2009/Image050-1.jpg)
How do i know where the correct position is.Before i replaced the CS ,i tried the original one pushed further in and when i started the engine all seemed ok but once i started driving i heard a noise,switched off and let car roll back into drive,and removed CS,the pins on the flywheel had skimmed the tip of the sensor?when i moved it back a bit it was ok.is that a sign of thrust washer gone?